Changes

In order to start customizing your slicer settings, you will have to access the setting menu. To do so, make sure you are in the prepare view. Click on the dropdown triangle in the top right hand corner. You will be shown the recommended settings automatically. Then select the custom button at the bottom to further customize your options.  

In order to start customizing your slicer settings, you will have to access the setting menu. To do so, make sure you are in the prepare view. Click on the dropdown triangle in the top right hand corner. You will be shown the recommended settings automatically. Then select the custom button at the bottom to further customize your options.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHUxuMe-plY

<youtube>gHUxuMe-plYc</youtube>

===How to Modify Parameters===

===How to Modify Parameters===

In the previous section, the recommended infill percentage was discussed. In this section, infill pattern can also be customized. There are 14 different patterns to choose from.  

In the previous section, the recommended infill percentage was discussed. In this section, infill pattern can also be customized. There are 14 different patterns to choose from.  

<nowiki>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6es3gT15HA</nowiki>

 

<youtube>e6es3gT15HA</youtube>

Lightning, lines, zig-zag are best used to print models and figurines with a typical 0-15% infill. This is because they don’t require the prints to have a high strength as they are not subjected to rough handling or put under stress. The three patterns result in the fastest prints. Grid, triangles and tri-hexagon are used for typical 3D prints with infill density for 15-50%. It is suitable for prints with low stress. Choosing these patterns may increase print time by up to 25% when compared to lines. If the print is functional such as a shelf bracket that requires strength in multiple directions, cubic, cubic subdivision, quarter cubic, octet and gyroid are great options. Many times these patterns are also chosen for infill densities smaller than 50% for their aesthetics. Concentric, cross and cross 3D are often chosen for flexible filament prints.  

Lightning, lines, zig-zag are best used to print models and figurines with a typical 0-15% infill. This is because they don’t require the prints to have a high strength as they are not subjected to rough handling or put under stress. The three patterns result in the fastest prints. Grid, triangles and tri-hexagon are used for typical 3D prints with infill density for 15-50%. It is suitable for prints with low stress. Choosing these patterns may increase print time by up to 25% when compared to lines. If the print is functional such as a shelf bracket that requires strength in multiple directions, cubic, cubic subdivision, quarter cubic, octet and gyroid are great options. Many times these patterns are also chosen for infill densities smaller than 50% for their aesthetics. Concentric, cross and cross 3D are often chosen for flexible filament prints.  

Dual extrusion prints are possible using the Ultimaker 3 or Raise printer<s>s</s> in Maker<ins>s</ins><s>S</s>pace. To do so with the Ultimaker, two separate 3D models are needed. If they are part of the same model, they will be merged together in Cura. Ensure that the printer selected is Ultimaker 3. The printer can be added using “Add printer” button.  Open both models in Cura and set the print core and the materials. This can be done through the printing options beside the printer selection. Both print cores should be set at '''AA .4.''' The material is set to PLA by default but it can be changed to the material of our choice. There is no need to change the colour of the filament on Cura as it will be determined by the filament that is loaded in the printers. By default, both model<ins>s</ins> will be set to print with core 1. To change the print core, select the model then select per model settings and print model with print core 2. After the print core, merge the two models together. Select both model<ins>s</ins> by holding shift while left clicking on both parts. Both models should the<ins>n</ins><s>m</s> be highlighted in blue. Then, right click and select “Merge Models”. The two models will then become a single model. At which point, you can adjust the printer settings like a regular single extrusion print. If you would like to customize the settings for one print core, the printer settings need to be assigned in custom model.<br />

Dual extrusion prints are possible using the Ultimaker 3 or Raise printer<s>s</s> in Maker<ins>s</ins><s>S</s>pace. To do so with the Ultimaker, two separate 3D models are needed. If they are part of the same model, they will be merged together in Cura. Ensure that the printer selected is Ultimaker 3. The printer can be added using “Add printer” button.  Open both models in Cura and set the print core and the materials. This can be done through the printing options beside the printer selection. Both print cores should be set at '''AA .4.''' The material is set to PLA by default but it can be changed to the material of our choice. There is no need to change the colour of the filament on Cura as it will be determined by the filament that is loaded in the printers. By default, both model<ins>s</ins> will be set to print with core 1. To change the print core, select the model then select per model settings and print model with print core 2. After the print core, merge the two models together. Select both model<ins>s</ins> by holding shift while left clicking on both parts. Both models should the<ins>n</ins><s>m</s> be highlighted in blue. Then, right click and select “Merge Models”. The two models will then become a single model. At which point, you can adjust the printer settings like a regular single extrusion print. If you would like to customize the settings for one print core, the printer settings need to be assigned in custom model.<br />

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Print Orientation|Print Orientation]]==

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Print Orientation|Print Orientation]]==

<nowiki>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqRbSkX5IJk</nowiki>

<youtube>OqRbSkX5IJk</youtube>

Print orientation is crucial to the success of the 3D model print. It heavily influences the speed and quality of the result. There are many different factors to consider when choosing how to orient your print.

Print orientation is crucial to the success of the 3D model print. It heavily influences the speed and quality of the result. There are many different factors to consider when choosing how to orient your print.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Post-Processing 3D prints|Post-Processing 3D prints]]==

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Post-Processing 3D prints|Post-Processing 3D prints]]==

<br />There are a number of post processing possibilities with 3D printed models. The options available are dependent on the material used. In this section, post-processing possibilities for PLA that are available in the Makerspace will be explored. The video below will explain the basics of post-processing. Everything used in the video is available at the finishing station in the Makerspace.

<br />There are a number of post processing possibilities with 3D printed models. The options available are dependent on the material used. In this section, post-processing possibilities for PLA that are available in the Makerspace will be explored. The video below will explain the basics of post-processing. Everything used in the video is available at the finishing station in the Makerspace.

<nowiki>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6dI3RDorwk</nowiki>

<youtube>l6dI3RDorwk</youtube>

 

<youtube>ZTE9bJyUO_8</youtube>

<nowiki>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTE9bJyUO_8</nowiki>

The most basic post-processing procedure is support removal. The Ultimaker 2+ printers in Makerspace are single extruder printers which means the supports are printed using the same material as the main model. Typically, the supports are easily removed by breaking them off the printed model. However, when supports are placed in tight corners or hard to reach places, additional tools such as pliers will be needed to remove the material. Dual extruder printers will allow you to print the supports with a different soluble material than the main part. This means the difficult to remove supports can be dissolved away by soaking it in another liquid.

The most basic post-processing procedure is support removal. The Ultimaker 2+ printers in Makerspace are single extruder printers which means the supports are printed using the same material as the main model. Typically, the supports are easily removed by breaking them off the printed model. However, when supports are placed in tight corners or hard to reach places, additional tools such as pliers will be needed to remove the material. Dual extruder printers will allow you to print the supports with a different soluble material than the main part. This means the difficult to remove supports can be dissolved away by soaking it in another liquid.

===Bed Levelling===

===Bed Levelling===

<nowiki>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0shirFB7o1s</nowiki>

<youtube>0shirFB7o1s</youtube>

If the printer is not printing properly (especially if the issue is noticeable on the very first layers of the print, where a difference in the layer height is noticeable), the build plate level may need to be adjusted. For minor adjustments, this can be done by using the three knobs (thumb screws) on the underside of the plate. For more major adjustments (>1mm), the build plate should be leveled through the printer’s onboard software by going to Maintenance→Build Plate, and following the onscreen instructions. If unsure, always use the latter method. The calibration cards needed are at the finishing station. However, in Makerspace, bed levelling should only be performed by the staff.  

If the printer is not printing properly (especially if the issue is noticeable on the very first layers of the print, where a difference in the layer height is noticeable), the build plate level may need to be adjusted. For minor adjustments, this can be done by using the three knobs (thumb screws) on the underside of the plate. For more major adjustments (>1mm), the build plate should be leveled through the printer’s onboard software by going to Maintenance→Build Plate, and following the onscreen instructions. If unsure, always use the latter method. The calibration cards needed are at the finishing station. However, in Makerspace, bed levelling should only be performed by the staff.  

===Filament Change===

===Filament Change===

<nowiki>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9v1w_dmpLu0</nowiki>

<youtube>9v1w_dmpLu0</youtube>

To change the filament on an Ultimaker 2+ printer, go to Material→Change in the printer’s user interface and follow the onscreen instructions. If ever the filament has almost run out, or if you desire to change the color of a print midway, you may navigate to Pause→Change Material and following the onscreen instructions. If changing mid-way, it is recommended that the older filament be completely purged from the nozzle using the new filament. Otherwise, the result will not be good. Again, within the Makerspace, this should only be done by the staff working.  

To change the filament on an Ultimaker 2+ printer, go to Material→Change in the printer’s user interface and follow the onscreen instructions. If ever the filament has almost run out, or if you desire to change the color of a print midway, you may navigate to Pause→Change Material and following the onscreen instructions. If changing mid-way, it is recommended that the older filament be completely purged from the nozzle using the new filament. Otherwise, the result will not be good. Again, within the Makerspace, this should only be done by the staff working.