Welding Technologies

About

MIG welding

Welding is a fabrication process where two or more pieces of metal are joined together using heat. This process creates a solid connection by melting the materials and allowing them to cool and fuse. Welding is a common method for creating durable joints in various applications, including manufacturing and repair.

There are three main categories of welding processes; Arc welding, Gas welding, and Resistance welding. MIG, TIG, Stick, and Plasma cutting fall under arc welding processes. Oxyfuel welding is the most common gas welding process, and spot welding is the most common resistance process.

Arc welding works by conducting a current from the electrode to the workpiece, and then lifting the electrode to force the current to jump through the air. Since air is a strong insulator, the resistance causes extreme heat which then melts the workpiece. Think of this like a miniature lightning bolt.

Gas welding uses a flammable gas as fuel mixed with oxygen to make a hot flame which melts the workpiece. Once molten, filler material can be added to fuze pieces to each other. The Brunsfield Center does not have any gas welding equipment.

Resistance welding uses pointed electrodes to pinch the individual pieces together, and the small area of contact creates a point of low voltage and high current which heats, melts, and fuzes the parts together.

For more resources on welding, visit the following YouTube channels:

Welding Tips and Tricks

Weld.com

Always remember to stop welding 30min before closure of shop to make sure you have time to clean up after yourself and stow the machine properly. Make sure the machine is unplugged and the gas valve is closed.

A TIG torch (left) and a MIG torch (right)

Different types of arc welding

MIG (Metal Inert Gas) aka GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding) is like a hot glue gun for metal, it's as easy as point and shoot. It has fixed settings and only one button, and is best for mild steel of small to medium thickness. The filler and electrode are the same wire, making the machine less complicated. Shielding gas, usually ferroline, comes from a bottle out the nozzle of the torch. MIG is most commonly found in automated factories, and as hobby or home use.

Stick aka SMAW (Shielded Metal Arc Welding) has no trigger or pedal, meaning the electrode is always live. Be aware of this between passes when laying the rod down, it can spark on its own. The filler and electrode are the same rod similar to MIG, except the rod is held in a conductive clamp called a stinger and not fed from the machine, so your hands need to move as the rod melts away. Stick welding rods have flux instead of shielding gas; the arc vaporizes the flux, creating its own shielding gas, while leaving a layer of slag on top of the weld to protect it as it cools. Always make sure to remove the slag before the next pass. Stick is most commonly found on pipelines and structural welds, it has very high penetrating power compared to MIG or TIG which is good for stuff that gets dirty, or has paint or coatings.

TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) aka GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) is the most complex process, but most versatile. It is best for aluminum, very small parts, and exotic metals. The torch is controlled by a remote, usually a foot pedal, which can vary amperage (heat) throughout the weld. Filler wire is separate from the torch, fed by hand, and you can even do a weld without adding any filler if you’re cool enough. Shielding gas, usually pure argon, comes from a bottle to the torch, same as for MIG. TIG welding is most commonly found in fabrication shops, aerospace applications, and the automotive industry.

MIG Welding

About

A Miller Millermatic 252 MIG welding machine, of which there are two in the Brunsfield Center

MIG (Metal Inert Gas) welding, also known as GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding), is a type of arc welding process in which a continuous solid wire electrode is fed through a welding gun and into the weld pool. The process uses a shielding gas, typically a mix of argon and $\mathrm{C}\mathrm{O}{\phantom{A}}_2$to protect the weld from contaminants in the atmosphere. MIG welding is widely used for its ease of use, speed, and adaptability to various metals.

How it works

In MIG welding, an electric arc forms between the wire electrode and the metal workpiece, heating them and causing them to melt and fuse. A motorized system feeds the wire at a controlled speed, while gas flows through the same gun to shield the weld.

• Wire electrode: consumable, ER70S-6 for mild steel.
• Shielding gas: Ferroline C25, 75% argon / 25% CO₂ for steel.
• Voltage and wire speed: adjusted based on material thickness.

Metal Thickness	Voltage	Wire Speed (In/min)
1/2''	29.5	515
3/8''	26.0	475
1/4''	21.0	375
3/16''	18.4	265
1/8''	17.4	230
14ga.	16.5	190
18ga.	15.8	120

Key Components of a MIG setup

Equipment Setup

Before turning on the welding machine, make sure that all safety measures are being followed. In particular, make sure all the proper PPE is being worn, nothing flammable is in the welding area, and close the curtains to protect others outised the welding area.

A simple procedure can be followed to properly start up the MIG welders.

1. Passing gas  
   1. Molten metal will oxidize more rapidly due to the heat and ruin the integrity of the weld. Inert “shielding” gas prevents this
   2. The cylinders need to be opened when welding
   3. Never overtighten or over open the valve on the cylinder
   4. Small knob on side of regulator controls flow  
   5. Flow meter shows increase but not decrease in flow unless gas is released
   6. Purge gas line and adjust to 25cfh for MIG (marked line on MIG bottles)
   7. 25% co2 (ferroline c25) for MIG and 100% Argon for TIG
   8. Regulator will show how much gas is left in the cylinder
   9. If you run out of gas, ask a supervisor to change the bottle for you. DO NOT TRY TO CHANGE YOURSELF
2. All about the settings
   1. MIG machine only has two settings; wire feed speed and voltage
   2. Chart above is on the machine or the door of the cabinet
3. The insides  
   1. The MIG welder has a cover on the side that holds the filler wire  
   2. Students should ask a supervisor before changing the wire  
   3. Tension adjustment knob and lever system (don’t play with it)
4. The torch
   1. As you press the trigger on the torch the wire and gas feed out
   2. Clean spatter (about every 30 min) to prevent welding or notching nozzle
   3. Taking off the nozzle we can see the contact tip
5. Staying grounded
   1. The ground needs to be attached in order for the electrical current to pass from the torch to your workpiece then back to the machine (closed circuit)  
   2. MIG welding requires a very good ground therefore it is always better to clamp the ground clamp directly onto the workpiece if possible
   3. When clamping on the table, clamp as close to your workpiece as possible
6. Ready to weld
   1. Positioning your body so that you are comfortable will make a significant difference in weld quality
   2. Position yourself so you can see what you are doing  
   3. Warn others before welding to avoid flashburn (bright arc in eyes)
   4. Snip off excess wire, clear off the contact tip and nozzle
   5. No more than ½" stickout
   6. Do a “dry run” (trace your weld path with the torch) to make sure you can reach comfortably

Technique

• When MIG welding it is important to hold the torch a certain way in order to achieve the best results
  • When welding a t joint or lap joint, it is recommended to hold the torch at a 45deg angle to the joint and use approximately a 5 to 15deg lead angle (ie pointing backwards to direction of travel)
  • For flat or butt joints, hold the torch at 90deg to the surface and with 5-15deg lead angle
  • Some kind of elbow rest can come in handy here—use some scrap and make your own!

• Slow and smooth movements are best
  • Use two hands or rest your elbow/forearm on the table/rest to keep steady
  • Stay consistent!

• Use shadows and reflections as landmarks to help keep a straight line
  • Turn your helmet shade down a bit if you’re struggling to see

• Do a pattern that keeps the arc at the front of the puddle to get better heat penetration
  • Zig zags are always good
  • Welding right to left, do C’s like this: CCCCCCCCC so the point is ahead of the weld
  • Left to right do it the other way: >>>>>>>>>>>>
  • Loop di loops or figure 8’s

TIG Welding

About

Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welding, also known as Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW), is a precise welding process that uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to produce the weld. Known for its high-quality, clean welds, TIG welding is commonly used on thin materials such as stainless steel and aluminum in industries requiring strong, visually appealing joints.

The TIG torch

A disassembled TIG torch

Assembly  

• Collet body screws into the front of the torch body
  • Gas lens does the same thing, creates laminar flow for getting into tight spots

• Collet goes into the back of the collet body
  • Notice slits on collet, acts like springs
  • Inside of collet body is tapered, pinches the collet closed

• Ceramic gas cup screws on top of collet body

• Sharpened electrode goes in through the back of torch
  • Grey paint: 2% ceriated is a good all-purpose electrode, ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals
  • “rule of thumb” for stickout, half the width of your thumb from the cup to the tip of the elctrode

• Tail cap screws onto back of torch body, seals the collet and electrode

Spare parts

All internal parts are made of copper for its conductivity. Copper is very soft so be careful to never over-tighten anything when assembling the torche. All these parts get worn out over time, they will tarnish due to the heat, slowly losing its conductivity. Brand new parts are very shiny, bright red and conduct electricity very well; you will notice a more stable arc when you replace an old part with a new one.

There are also different sized parts for different applications. Thicker material requires more heat to weld, meaning a thicker electrode to conduct more current, thus needing larger collet and collet body, and more gas to shield, meaning a larger cup. On the other hand, thinner material requires less amperage, and when an electrode is too big for the amount of amperage the arc becomes unstable and difficult to start. Therefore, a smaller electrode, collet, and collet body should be installed, along with a smaller gas cup to concentrate the gas on the smaller weld pool.

Electrode  

TIG welding uses a tungsten as an electrode. Tungsten has an extremely high melting point (3422C, 6191F), so when you weld the electrode gets hot but it doesn't melt. This means the electrode is non-consummable, it won’t last forever but it doesn’t melt and become part of the weld (unlike MIG where the electrode melts and becomes filler metal. This is a consumable electrode process)

The color of the electrode indicates the type of tungsten alloy. Some of the more common alloys include:

• Grey is 2% ceriated, good choice for all types of welding; providing good arc start and restart characteristics with no spitting. It is ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals.

• 2% lanthanated tungsten (color-coded blue) is a true all-purpose electrode, with excellent arc starting characteristics and the ability to transmit high current without spitting. It provides a stable arc at both high and low current, and works very well on all metals.

• Rare earth tungsten (chartreuse) has the very best low-current arc starting characteristics, and it can be used on all metals. This type is often preferred for automated welding.

• Zirconiated tungsten (white) is good for welding aluminum and magnesium alloys. It has high current-carrying capacity, and it provides better arc starts and stability than pure tungsten.

Sharpening your tungsten

• Make sure to use the left of the two small wheels, labeled for tungsten

• Wear gloves, it’ll get toasty

• Don't use pliers, not enough grip

• Hold the electrode in line with the wheel, pointing up against the rotation

• Want grind lines running towards the point to direct the current

• If it grabs the wheel, it’ll just push you away

• Holding it downward will pull you into the wheel and revoke your finger privileges

• Spin it slowly and constantly in your fingers

• Looking for a uniform cone, don’t want flat spots

• Aim for 30 degrees

• Break off the point

• Don't want any burrs to throw off our arc

• The flat end helps a little with penetration

Machine Setup

Starting the machine

• Plug in, flip power switch

• Open gas valve, set flow to 15-20CFH

• Need to have gas flowing to read flowmeter, press the pedal down

• Connect the ground clamp

• Set the pedal and torch in a comfortable position

Settings

Amperage

As a general rule of thumb, start by setting the amperage equivalent to the thickness of your part in thousandths of an inch, ie. 1A = 0.001". So for a 1/8" practice coupon, start out at 125A.

However, with more experience you will learn to play around with this setting to suit your particular style. For example, some people might set their amperage to 140A for 1/8" Aluminum to get an extra kick when starting their weld, even though they'll only use 50% of the pedal (70-80A) for the rest of the weld after it's started.

Polarity

• AC for Aluminum and Magnesium
  • Electrode positive phase, electrons flowing from workpiece to electrode, blows through the back of the oxide layer
  • Electrode negative phase, electrons flowing from the electrode to the workpiece, actually melts the pure aluminum inside to make a weld

• DC for all other metals

Process

This setting controls how the arc starts.

• HF impulse allows to press the pedal and start the arc without needing to touch the workpiece to start the flow of electricity, using high-voltage high-frequency electric pulses

• Lift start requires you to touch the tungsten to the workpiece, press the pedal down, then lift off to start the arc

• Stick (scratch start) is when the electrode stays live at all times so the arc starts as soon as you make contact

Miller Dynasty front control panel layout. (TIG machines in Brunsfield)

Output

This setting determines what activates the arc.

• Remote allows you to use a foot pedal or hand remote

• 2T hold acts like a toggle function

Pulser

Use this setting to periodically decrease the heat for smaller parts.

• PPS stands for pulses per second

• Peak time is how long each pulse is at max amperage as a percentage of the PPS

• Background amperage is the minimum amperage in between pulses

Sequence

Use this setting in conjunction with the 2T hold setting for when a remote (foot pedal) isn’t available or practical.

• Initial amperage is the amount of amps used to initiate the arc, usually based on electrode size

• Initial slope is how long it will take to go from initial A to your working amperage

• Final slope is how long it will take to decrease from working A to final A

• Final A is the amperage right before the arc cuts out

Adjust

• Preflow is how long the gas will flow before the weld starts, to clear out any impurities for the start

• Postflow is gas flow after the weld, to protect the weld and the electrode as they cool

• DIG is used for stick welding, prevents the electrode from sticking to the workpiece

AC Waveshape  

• Balance changes how much cleaning actions happens to remove the Al oxide. Lower balance has more cleaning action

• Frequency changes the width of the AC arc. Higher frequency will have a tighter arc with more penetration

Starting Recipes

Material	0.125" AISI 1018 plate	0.065" AISI 4130 tube	0.125" 6061-T6 plate
Amperage	130A	67A	150A
Polarity	DC	DC	AC
Process	HF Impulse	HF Impulse	HF Impulse
Output	RMT STD	RMT STD	RMT STD
Pulser	off	0.8 PPS, 40% peak t, 25A bkgnd A	off
Sequence	off	off	off
Adjust	0.2s pre-flow, 4s post-flow	0.5s pre-flow, 5s post-flow	0.8s pre-flow, 6s post-flow
AC Waveshape	off	off	70% balance, 80Hz

Start with these settings and play around with them as you practice. Only change one setting at a time until you understand what each one does, that way you can notice the effect of each one.

Troubleshooting

• Amperage: The weld bead should be about twice as wide as the thickness of the material. If the bead is wider than that, turn the amperage down. Turn the amperage up if the bead is smaller.
• Process: If the arc won't start when you press the foot pedal, check your process setting. If you're in lift arc or stick, the machine expects you to touch the electrode to the workpiece in order to start the flow of current. Use HF Impulse instead for most TIG operations.
• Pulser: If you feel like you don't have enough time to reposition between pulses, decrease the PPS value. If you don't have time to add filler and connect the bead during the pulse, increase the peak t value. If the arc is flickering or dying in between pulses, turn up the background amperage.
• Adjust: if the weld has any porosity or oxidation, check that the gas flow rate is set correctly on the regulator. If the regulator is set correctly and the issue still arises, increase the post-flow value
• AC Waveshape: If the bead is too narrow, decrease the frequency. If it's too narrow AND has poor penetration, increase the amperage instead. If there's too much etching, turn up the balance. If the oxide layer won't break, turn the balance down.

Technique

Before starting

• Make sure your tungsten is sharp and your filler rod is a decent length

• Stick your electrode out the same amount as the width of the cup

• Most joints will use about twice the length of filler as the length of the joint, make sure you have enough

• Find a comfortable position. Being comfy is the fastest way to improve your welds

• Trace your path to make sure you can reach and see everything you need to

Travel angle is as seen from the side of the weld, work angle is as seen from the end of the weld

Starting the weld

• Position your torch so the tip of the electrode is ~1/8” from the surface of the workpiece. Never exceed ¼" (long arcing, poor gas coverage)

• Hold the torch at the correct angle

• 5-15deg lead angle in the plane parallel to the weld, meaning handle tilted back, electrode point in the direction of travel

• 90deg to the face of the weld, meaning vertical for flat welds or butt joints, 45deg from vertical for lap or T joints

• Apply the pedal slowly, develop the puddle

• Look for how the heat input affects the width of the puddle

• For joints, make a tack weld first. Start the arc in the middle of the gap to create a puddle on either side, increase the heat until they connect

• Use filler sparingly at first, make sure the base material fuses fully.

Common weave patterns

Make a bead

• Look for how filler input affects the height of the puddle

• Make sure to tie in to your tack or last bead, ie start with some overlap

• For joints, use a back-and-forth motion to connect the two pieces

• Use enough filler to avoid undercut (where the surface dips down)

Finishing the weld

• Finish the last ~¼" without filler to avoid a big glob at the end

• Make sure to go all the way over your tack or next bead

• Avoid pinholes, lack of fusion

• Slowly lift off pedal, hold torch over the weld

• Maintains gas coverage while the weld and electrode cool

Stick Welding

About

Stick welding, or Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), is a versatile and widely used welding process that uses a consumable electrode coated in flux to lay the weld. It is known for its simplicity and effectiveness in outdoor or windy conditions, making it ideal for construction, repair, and heavy steel structures.

No torch

Instead of a torch, stick welding uses a solid rod clamped in a stinger, which is a conductive clamp with grooves to hold the rod. The rod serves a triple purpose; it acts as the electrode by carrying current from the stinger to the workpiece, serves as filler material to fill the weld, and is covered in flux which vaporizes to become the shielding gas.

There are different kinds of rods for different purposes. The most common are listed below.

• 7018 is the most common all-purpose rod

• 6010/6011 are both very high strength, used for heavy duty applications

Many industrial processes will use a combination of 6010 for the root, and 7018 for the fill and cap.

Machine setup

• Plug in, turn on, connect ground clamp

• No gas needed because of flux

• No foot pedal either

Settings  

• Depending on the electrode being used, you may need to flip the polarity  
  • Some rods run only DCEN, only DCEP, or only AC, some run a combination of the three
  • Direct current electrode negative (DCEN) means the electrode is connected to the negative terminal of the machine and the ground connect to the positive
  • And vice versa for DCEP

• Make sure the correct process and output is selected
  • Process: stick
  • Output: on
  • Adjust: DIG
  • All other settings should be default or off

• DO NOT put a rod in the stinger until you are ready to weld
  • As soon as the ground clamp is connected, the stinger is LIVE
  • If you leave a rod in the stinger, it will spark every time it touches the table

• Set amperage depending on rod rather than material thickness

• For 1/8” 7018 rod on 1/8” material, start at 110A and increase as needed

• As you can see in the chart, the rod size depends on the material size, and then the amperage depends on the rod size

• Bigger rods have more penetration

Technique

Before starting

• Find a comfortable position
  • Use scrap, clamps, extra gloves etc to make an elbow/wrist rest
  • Beware that your rod will shrink as you weld, account for that in your positioning
  • Thumb to pinky  

• Make sure your piece is clean, free of slag
  • Have a chipping hammer and wire brush on hand
  • Angle grinders or wire wheels can be handy too for really gross parts

• Make sure you have the right size rod
  • Don't use a 5/32” rod on 0.065” thick material, it’ll go right through

Starting the weld

• Stick welding is usually scratch start (like striking a match)

• Scratch the tip of the electrode against the piece to start the flow of current, lift off to create the arc
  • Scratching helps to avoid sticking your rod, and to remove bits of slag or flux that may be stuck to the end of the rod
  • Scratch on a clean area, ahead of where you want to weld so you cover the arc strike

• Once the arc is started, don’t pull away too far!!! Arc length is crucial
  • Too far away (long-arcing) will cause porosity, undercut, unstable arc
  • Short-arcing will smoother the weld, rod will stick, poke holes
  • But too short is better than too long

• Rod angle should generally be close to the middle of the two faces being joined
  • Meaning 45deg for t joint, 90deg for butt joint etc (work angle)
  • Also using a slight (10-20deg) lead angle ie “dragging” the tip of the rod, to avoid pushing slag into the weld puddle (travel angle)

• Make a tack weld at either end/on either side before doing the full bead, same as with MIG/TIG
  • Once the tack is made, you have to “tie” it in to the bead
  • Back-track to cover your tack before proceeding to the full bead
  • This will avoid pinholes, undercut, bad toe lines etc

Finishing the weld

• At the end of the bead, “snap” the rod off
  • Not snap as in break, more like a whip motion
  • This will kill the arc quickly, rather than getting porosity from long-arcing as you pull away slowly (not good)
  • This will also toss off any slag or molten metal from the end of the rod, makes the next restart easier

• Chip away any slag, wire brush any rust or spatter before starting the next bead
  • Always easier to weld a clean part

Spot Welding

About

A spot welder is a type of resistance welding machine used to join two or more metal surfaces at small points by applying pressure and passing a strong electrical current through the metal. The heat generated by the electrical resistance at the interface of the workpieces causes them to melt and fuse. Spot welding is commonly used in the automotive industry, metal fabrication, and manufacturing of appliances.

Safety Considerations

• Risk of burns from hot metal and electrodes.

• Electrical hazards due to high current.

• Eye protection needed for sparks.

• Proper ventilation required to avoid inhalation of fumes.

Principle of Operation

Spot welding operates on the principle of Resistive Heating. Two copper alloy electrodes are used to clamp the workpieces together. A high-current, low-voltage electric pulse is then passed through the metals, typically for a few milliseconds. Because the current is concentrated at the point of contact and the resistance is highest there, the material heats and melts at that spot, forming a weld nugget.

Components

A typical spot welder consists of:

• Control System: Regulates weld time, pressure, and current.

• Transformer: Steps down voltage and increases current.

• Electrodes: Copper alloy tips that conduct current and apply pressure.

• Tongs: Provide leverage and spacing for the workpieces.

• Cooling System: Often water-cooled to prevent overheating of electrodes.

Applications

Spot welders are widely used in:

• Automotive Manufacturing: For joining body panels and frame components.

• Battery Packs: To weld tabs on cylindrical and pouch-type battery cells.

• Sheet Metal Fabrication: In appliances, cabinets, and enclosures.

• Aerospace and Electronics: For precise, localized joining of components.

Advantages

• Fast and efficient for mass production.

• No need for filler material.

• Minimal heat-affected zone (HAZ).

• Consistent and repeatable weld quality with proper control.

Limitations

• Limited to thin sheet metals (typically less than 3 mm or 1/8” thick).

• Not suitable for non-conductive materials or thick components.

• Weld strength may vary with contamination or improper setup.

• Electrode wear requires regular maintenance.

• The MTC spot welder cannot weld aluminum since it requires higher current than the machine is rated for

Training and Operation

Spot welders are often rated as a Class 2 or 3 operation in machine shop environments like Brunsfield Center, meaning users require a brief training and oversight to safely perform welds. Training focuses on:

• PPE use (e.g., safety glasses, gloves)

• Setting weld time and current

• Electrode alignment

• Handling hot workpieces safely

To operate the spot welder, particular procedures must be followed to ensure safe and effective operation. Before use, make sure to have MIG welding gloves or pliers immediately available to handle the workpiece after welding and avoid burns.

• Turn the machine on, set the timer to the correct length of time
  • For mild/galvanized steel, set the timer between 0.75 and 1.00 seconds
  • For stainless steel, set the timer between 0.25 and 0.50 seconds
  • Setting the timer too short will result in a cold joint and lack of fusion. Setting the timer too long will deform the material and cause the weld cross section to be smaller. Both result in a weak weld
  • While some spot welders can weld aluminum, the MTC spot welder cannot. It does not have AC capability which aluminum requires to weld.

• Position the pieces to be welded between the tongs
  • Make sure the pieces are aligned correctly relative to each other
  • Make sure no part of the piece is touching any part of the tong other than the contact tip. This will split the current, causing the weld to not be as hot, which can cause lack of fusion
  • For pieces more than 4” across, use a free hand to support the piece and prevent tipping
  • Use a MIG glove to support the piece to avoid burns

• Hold the trigger for the full duration of the timer
  • Failing to do so can result in a cold weld and lack of fusion
  • The timer shuts the welder off automatically after it runs out; don’t worry about over-doing it

• Once the timer runs out, release the clamp and remove the workpiece
  • DO NOT TOUCH with bare hands
  • The piece will be hot, use pliers or gloves to handle until it cools
  • Running the piece under the sink will cool it quickly, but the rapid change in temperature may cause cracks in the weld. For any joint that will be under load, allow to cool slowly

Plasma Cutting

About

The plasma gun uses as arc (like welding) coupled with a stream of compressed air to melt away metal using the torch. It can be used to cut thicker metals quickly, but leaves a rough surface finish.

Operating the plasma gun is very similar to a MIG welder. It is done in the welding bay in Brunsfield and require MIG training before operating. This is considered an advance manufacturing technology, please check in with a staff before commencing.

Operating Procedure

Preparation

• Ensure the welding curtains are fully closed around the cutting zone.
• Prepare your piece by marking your cuts and setting up a jig if repeated cuts are to be made.

Plasma Table

• Clear all items from the surface of the plasma table.
• Ensure both wheel casters are in the locked position.
• With the help of another person, lift open the lid of the table until it hangs down at the side. Lift from both front corners slowly and set the lid down gently.
• Pinching Hazard! The table lid is very heavy. Use caution and ask for hep if needed.

PPE Check

• Wear a welding helmet or plasma glasses, gloves, welding jacket, long (non-systhetic) pants that are tucked over your boots, and safety boots.
• Use hearing protection if required.
• Use an N-95 mask or respirator.

Setup and Power-On

• Connect the power cable to the back of the machine.
• Check the air pressure and power settings on the plasma cutter.
• Connect the air hose to the plasma cutter.
• Turn on the ventilation system.
• Clamp the ground lead securely to the workpiece.

Cutting Operation

• Hold the torch perpendicular to the work surface at all times.
• Cut only above the open table, do not stand under the torch while cutting.
• Ensure nothing is in the way of your cut; the torch should slide smoothly along the surface of the piece.
• Begin the cut off of the work piece, then slowly move to cut through the metal.
• Maintain a steady speed, always allowing material to be blown out of the bottom of the cut.

Post-Cut Procedure

• Turn off power and disconnect the air supply.
• Let materials cool fully before handling them.
• Coil cables neatly and store equipment safely.
• Return all PPE to the cabinets

Clean-Up

• Clear metal debris.
• Ensure ventilation runs until fumes are dispersed.
• Using a second person, carefully close the lid of the plasma table. A piece of metal can be used as a shim while closing to ensure fingers aren’t pinched.
• Report any issues or damage.