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Whenever you create a part for vacuum forming, you want to avoid sharp edges or sharp angles as much as possible. The thicker your plastic is, the less capable it will be to take the shape of those sharp corners. The thinner the material is, the more susceptible it is to overstretching.
Whenever you create a part for vacuum forming, you want to avoid sharp edges or sharp angles as much as possible. The thicker your plastic is, the less capable it will be to take the shape of those sharp corners. The thinner the material is, the more susceptible it is to overstretching.
[[File:Edges Fillets (1).png|alt=|center|thumb|360x360px]]
[[File:Edges Fillets (1).png|alt=|center|thumb|360x360px]]
=== Air Holes ===
For the plastic sheet to be able to take the shape of your mold, air needs to be able to escape from between them. To help achieve so, we implement air holes at strategically placed locations. In general, these locations imply any area that is lower than it's surrounding such as cavities, where an air pocket can easily be formed. It is ok to add air holes directly in your 3D model but it will increase print time unnecessarily. It is recommended instead to drill the holes manually with the correct drill bit size and protective gear.
== Printer Settings ==
== Printer Settings ==
=== Layer Height ===
=== Layer Height ===
As per usual, the lower the layer the better the resolution of the print, but the longer it will take to print. Since the plastic sheet is formed onto the mold, every details will transfer to the sheet, even the smallest layer lines. A solution to get the best of both worlds (fast printing time and a good surface finish) is sanding the part down. Anything above 400 grit (the higher the better) will give a good enough finish compared to big layers. In the end, it is all up to your preferences. A good place to start is 0.16mm layers (for a standard 0.4mm nozzle) and calibrate from there to your liking.
As per usual, the lower the layer the better the resolution of the print, but the longer it will take to print. Since the plastic sheet is formed onto the mold, every details will transfer to the sheet, even the smallest layer lines. A solution to get the best of both worlds (fast printing time and a good surface finish) is sanding the part down. Anything above 400 grit (the higher the better) will give a good enough finish compared to big layers. In the end, it is all up to your preferences. A good place to start is 0.16mm layers (for a standard 0.4mm nozzle) and calibrate from there to your liking.
=== Infill ===
=== Infill ===
The infill can affect affect the structural integrity of your mold and dictate the amount of pulls it will be able to sustain. It also affects the amount of material you will be using and therefore the time the print will require. The recommended infill density for most molds applications is 20%. For the infill pattern, the Gyroid pattern offers a good balance between time efficiency and structural durability.
The infill can affect affect the structural integrity of your mold and dictate the amount of pulls it will be able to sustain. It also affects the amount of material you will be using and therefore the time the print will require. The recommended infill density for most molds applications is 20%. For the infill pattern, the Gyroid pattern offers a good balance between time efficiency and structural durability.