Changes

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.  

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]]==

 

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspace. {{PrinterInfobox

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

 

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox

| name = Ultimaker 2+

| name = Ultimaker 2+

| image = Ultimaker2+.png

| image = Ultimaker2+.png

| slicerName = Cura

| slicerName = Cura

| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura

| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura

| materials =PLA, ABS, Flexible  

| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible, etc

| minLayerHeight =0.06  

| minLayerHeight = 0.06

| heatedBuildPlate =Yes  

| heatedBuildPlate = Yes

|float=none|buildWidth=223|buildDepth=223|buildHeight=205|recommendedSettings=https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B}}

| float = none

| buildWidth = 223

| buildDepth = 223

| buildHeight = 205

| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B

}}

{{PrinterInfobox

{{PrinterInfobox

| slicerName = Cura

| slicerName = Cura

| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura

| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura

| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible

| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible, etc

| minLayerHeight = 0.02

| minLayerHeight = 0.02

| heatedBuildPlate = Yes

| heatedBuildPlate = Yes

|float=none|buildWidth=215|buildDepth=215|buildHeight=200|recommendedSettings=https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3}}

| float = none

| buildWidth = 215

| buildDepth = 215

| buildHeight = 200

| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3

}}

{{PrinterInfobox

{{PrinterInfobox

| minLayerHeight = 0.1

| minLayerHeight = 0.1

| heatedBuildPlate = No

| heatedBuildPlate = No

|float=none|buildWidth=285|buildDepth=153|buildHeight=155|recommendedSettings=https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2}}

| float = none

| buildWidth = 285

| buildDepth = 153

| buildHeight = 155

| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2

}}

{{PrinterInfobox

{{PrinterInfobox

| minLayerHeight = 0.1

| minLayerHeight = 0.1

| heatedBuildPlate = No

| heatedBuildPlate = No

|float=none|buildWidth=230|buildDepth=150|buildHeight=140|recommendedSettings=https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20}}

| float = none

| buildWidth = 230

| buildDepth = 150

| buildHeight = 140

| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20

}}

{{PrinterInfobox

{{PrinterInfobox

| minLayerHeight = 0.01

| minLayerHeight = 0.01

| heatedBuildPlate = Yes

| heatedBuildPlate = Yes

|float=none|buildWidth=305|buildDepth=305|buildHeight=605|recommendedSettings=https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus}}

| float = none

| buildWidth = 305

| buildDepth = 305

| buildHeight = 605

| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus

 

}}

{{PrinterInfobox

{{PrinterInfobox

| minLayerHeight = 0.1

| minLayerHeight = 0.1

| heatedBuildPlate = No

| heatedBuildPlate = No

|float=none|buildWidth=320|buildDepth=132|buildHeight=154|recommendedSettings=https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two}}

| float = none

| buildWidth = 320

| buildDepth = 132

| buildHeight = 154

| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two

 

 

 

}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing|Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing]] ==

==== Layer Height ====

=== Burn Hazard ===

The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.

Since FDM 3D printers melt materials, these carry an important burn hazard. Refrain from touching the 3D printer nozzle (200°C and hotter) and build plate (60°C and hotter). Hot parts are typically labelled on machines, but it can happen for the labelling to become worn down, and such it is important for you to know of these hazards so you may protect yourself against them.

[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====

=== Respiratory Hazard ===

The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. However, the ways in which the print speed will affect the final print are not always obvious. If the print speed is too high, the printer might not be able to dispense enough material through its nozzle per unit of time to fill the desired volume with the required amount of material. This can lead to bad adhesion between layers or even a complete lack of adhesion to layers. The ratio of layer height to layer speed (i.e.: material outflow through the nozzle) should therefore always be considered when FDM printing (the exact subject though being more of an intermediate subject). When making parts that will bear loads, print speeds are increasingly important as layer adhesion becomes an important factor in the strength of the final part, so much so that parts may be annealed (uniformly re-heated through a controlled process) to obtain better properties across layers.<ref>Agnieszka Szust, Grzegorz Adamski, ''Using thermal annealing and salt remelting to increase tensile properties of 3D FDM prints'', Engineering Failure Analysis, Volume 132, 2022, 105932, ISSN 1350-6307, <nowiki>https://doi.org/10.1016/j.engfailanal.2021.105932</nowiki>.</ref>

It has been reported that materials melted by FDM printers can release harmful airborne particulates. It is important to use 3D printers in well ventilated areas or to use printers equipped with an air extractor. Air quality measurements of our Makerspace (STEM 107) have been professionally taken with 24 Ultimaker 2+ printers running for extended periods of time (as would be the case on a very busy day at the Makerspace). Thanks to proper ventilation of the space, the particulate concentration measured is well below regulatory limits.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

=== Fire Hazard ===

Since the 3D printing process involves lots of heat and plastics, most of which are flammable, if the plastic being used runs out or accumulates around the printer nozzle and the temperature sensors limiting the nozzle temperature malfunctions, the printer could catch fire from overheating. This is why unsupervised (such as overnight) printing is prohibited on printers that have no shutoff mechanisms that would avoid conditions that may lead to the printer catching fire.

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===

=== Pinch Hazard ===

The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

Since printers have exposed moving parts, and the movements of the print head can be unexpected, the printers present a pinch hazard. Avoid introducing body parts close to a printer's moving parts.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===

=== Bodily Harm Hazard ===

The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

''<u>While bodily harm hazards are not applicable to the small FDM printers in our Makerspace</u>'', they may be very real on larger printers where the drive mechanisms are very powerful to account for fast and accurate movements of a heavy print head. As a general rule when working with industrial machinery, please refrain from introducing any parts of your body within the range of movement of the print head or near exposed moving parts of machinery while it is powered on.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==

At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

===Create or Find a 3D model===

===Create or Find a 3D model===

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

===Save or download the model as an stl===

===Save or download the model as an stl===

What is an stl file? It is a stereolithography file format (an old cad software). STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

===Slicing===

===Slicing===

 

====Open Model====

====Open Model====

Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

===Start the print===

===Start the print===

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic  designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic  designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==

You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Simulating a Slice===

===Previewing a Slice===

Simulating a slice can be a valuable tool, saving you time and money. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print.  

Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

 

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.  

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.

{| class="wikitable"

{| class="wikitable"