Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print

From CEED Wiki
< Digital technologies‎ | 3D printing‎ | 3D printing- Beginner
Revision as of 15:58, 13 July 2021 by Strem078 (talk | contribs) (Created page with "{{#lsth:Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner|What not to print on a 3D printer}}")
(diff) ← Older revision | Latest revision (diff) | Newer revision → (diff)
Jump to navigation Jump to search

3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

Machine Threads

Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a heat insert (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an expanding insert for plastic (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.

A picture of what not to print
A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.[1] The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.[2][3][4][5]

Electronics Enclosures

We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the Laser Cutting pages for design resources.