Difference between revisions of "Digital technologies/Textiles/3D printing on Fabric"

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== Introduction ==
 
== Introduction ==
 +
 +
3D printing is so versatile that it can also be incorporated into fabric, hence bringing rise to futuristic garment features.
 +
 +
It has flourished in the fashion industry, and many famous brands are already making and selling 3D-printed garments.
 +
 +
3D printing enables you to create your own designs for your clothes and personalize them as you would like. From cosplayers' costumes to footwear to pieces of jewelry to intricate patterns for your old shirts, 3D printing can bring your creations to life.
 +
 +
[[File:3D printing on fabric.png|center|500x1000px|3D printing on fabric]]<ref><nowiki>https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/the-mit-scientists-making-3d-printed-fabrics-as-soft-as-skin-157609/</nowiki></ref><div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. 3D printed fabric</div>
 +
 +
This document will give you an overview of how to 3D print on fabrics.
 +
 +
It will show three examples, each with its own filament, however the technique remains fairly the same.
 +
 +
== 3D printing on fabric examples ==
 +
The following figures depict the final products obtained:
 +
 +
=== Dragon Scales ===
 +
Dragon scales are inevitable when you are dealing with cosplayers’ costumes.
 +
 +
Moreover, their whimsical look can be pleasant for fantasy fans.
 +
 +
As shown in the picture, you can create your own dragon scale fabrics by incorporating your fabric between your 3D printed parts.
 +
 +
[[File:Woodfill dragon scales.png|center|500x1000px|Wood fill dragon scales|link=Special:FilePath/Woodfill_dragon_scales.png]]
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Wood fill dragon scales</div>
 +
 +
=== Glow in the dark Hexagons ===
 +
The hexagons form a delightful pattern which may be ideal for making pieces of jewelry.
 +
 +
[[File:Hexagons.png|center|500x1000px|Glow-in-the-dark hexagons|link=Special:FilePath/Hexagons.png]]
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Glow-in-the-dark hexagons</div>
 +
 +
 +
=== Photochromatic Snap Buttons ===
 +
Snap buttons can revolutionize the way you use buttons, which are usually sewn on your shirts.
 +
 +
[[File:Snap buttons1.png|center|400x600px|Snap buttons|link=Special:FilePath/Snap_buttons1.png]]
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Photochromatic snap buttons on woven fabric</div>
 +
 +
 +
 +
[[File:Snap buttons2.png|center|400x600px|Snap buttons|link=Special:FilePath/Snap_buttons2.png]]
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Photochromatic snap buttons</div>
 +
 +
 +
 +
[[File:Snap buttons3.png|center|400x600px|Snap buttons|link=Special:FilePath/Snap_buttons3.png]]
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Photochromatic snap buttons under UV light</div>
 +
 +
 +
 +
Different types of filaments were used. You can use the material of your choice and make the necessary changes in your 3D slicer.
 +
 +
==Filament used==
 +
The following table shows the printers used for each filament type and some of the difficulties that came up.
 +
 +
The printer, Flsun v400 was the first option for all three examples since it is faster and was ideal for filaments of 1.75 mm, unfortunately one filament type did not perform well with this printer, specifically the Woodfill PLA.
 +
{| class="wikitable" style="margin:1em auto 1em auto;"
 +
|+
 +
! scope="col" |Printer
 +
! scope="col" |Filament
 +
! scope="col" |Slicer
 +
! scope="col" |Difficulties encountered
 +
|-
 +
|Colour fab Wood fill PLA (2.85 mm)
 +
|Ultimaker 2+-Nozzle 0.4 mm
 +
|Cura
 +
|
 +
*Incessant clogging with Flsun v400 printer
 +
* Filament got burnt several times v400 nozzle
 +
*Over extrusion with a 0.8 mm nozzle-UMP
 +
*Was not adhering to build plate-UMP
 +
|-
 +
|Glow in the dark PLA (1.75 mm)
 +
|Flsun v400
 +
|Cura
 +
|No significant difficulties were encountered, it worked like normal PLA
 +
|-
 +
|Photochromatic PLA (1.75 mm)
 +
|Flsun v400
 +
|Cura
 +
|No significant difficulties were encountered, it worked like normal PLA
 +
 +
|}
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Table 1. Filament used</div>
 +
 +
Note: Some specialty filaments are abrasive and can severely damage the nozzle
 +
 +
==Getting Started==
 +
===Preparing your model===
 +
A 3D CAD software, such as Onshape can be used to build up your model from scratch.
 +
 +
Or you can find some readily available designs online on [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse.]
 +
 +
Note: The dragon scales and the hexagons were from Thingiverse.
 +
 +
-Dragon scales<ref>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3470986/files</ref>
 +
 +
-Hexagons<ref><nowiki>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4603936/files</nowiki> </ref>
 +
 +
-Snap buttons<ref><nowiki>https://www.instructables.com/How-to-3D-Print-Onto-Fabric/</nowiki>
 +
</ref>
 +
 +
==== Slicer ====
 +
Now you must bring your model to your slicer.
 +
 +
To use the slicer:
 +
 +
* Download the slicer you will need for free or use one of Makerspace's computers. In our example we will be using Ultimaker Cura.
 +
* Bring your model to your slicer. Remember to save your file as STL.
 +
 +
==== Print settings ====
 +
The following table shows the changes made in the print settings; all other settings were left the same.
 +
{| class="wikitable" style="margin:1em auto 1em auto;"
 +
|+
 +
! scope="col" |
 +
! scope="col" |Dragon scales
 +
! scope="col" |Hexagons
 +
! scope="col" |Snap buttons
 +
|-
 +
|Material
 +
|Wood fill PLA colorFabb Woodfill
 +
|Generic PLA
 +
|Generic PLA
 +
|-
 +
|Nozzle size
 +
|0.4 mm
 +
|0.4 mm
 +
|0.4 mm
 +
|-
 +
|Infill pattern
 +
|Grid
 +
|Grid
 +
|Grid
 +
|-
 +
|Infill density
 +
|10 %
 +
|10 %
 +
|10 %
 +
|-
 +
|Layer height
 +
|0.15 mm
 +
|0.20 mm
 +
|0.15 mm
 +
|-
 +
|Print speed
 +
|_
 +
|150 mm/s
 +
|150 mm/s
 +
|-
 +
|Build-plate adhesion
 +
|None
 +
|None
 +
|None
 +
|-
 +
|Printing temperature
 +
|_
 +
|210 °C
 +
|210 °C
 +
|-
 +
|Build-plate temperature
 +
|_
 +
|60 °C
 +
|60 °C
 +
|}
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Table 2. Filament used</div>
 +
 +
Additionally, to facilitate the printing process after incorporating the fabric,
 +
 +
Go to Custom --> All in the Print settings and enable the following:
 +
 +
* Enable Retraction-reduces stringing,
 +
* Z Hop when retracted-prevents nozzle from dragging along surface,
 +
 +
[[File: Print settings.png|center|300x600px |All print settings]]
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Fig 7. All print settings
 +
</div>
 +
Note:
 +
For the Ultimaker printer, you may have to clean the build plate and adjust its level if your filament is not adhering to it.
 +
* To clean: Use the cleaner available and paper towels and carefully wipe the build plate.
 +
* To adjust level: At the Ultimaker printer go to Maintenance -> Build plate and follow the instructions given.
 +
 +
====== Calibrating the build-plate: ======
 +
Calibrating the plate may be necessary when dealing with specialty filament, more information can be found on the following [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Bed Levelling, Filament Change|link.]]
 +
 +
=== Gathering materials ===
 +
Before starting your print, ensure that you have the following materials:
 +
 +
* Fabric
 +
* Tape
 +
* Scissors
 +
* Ruler
 +
 +
After gathering your materials,
 +
 +
* Measure out the amount of fabric you would need and cut it out.
 +
 +
Note: Your fabric should be smaller than the print area.
 +
 +
* The fabrics used were tulle and a woven fabric.
 +
 +
== Starting your print ==
 +
Note that the printing will be in two stages.
 +
 +
The first stage will be before the fabric is embedded in the 3D printed part and the second stage will be after its incorporation.
 +
 +
* Save your model and bring it to the printer.
 +
* Switch on the printer and do the necessary configuration depending on the material you are using.
 +
* Begin print.
 +
 +
Let it print the first two layers of your model as shown below:
 +
[[File: First stage print.png|center|500x800 px|First stage print|link=Special:FilePath/First_stage_print.png]]
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. First stage print</div>
 +
 +
*Pause your print
 +
 +
====== Incorporating your fabric ======
 +
 +
* Place your fabric on the part that has been printed.
 +
[[File: Taped fabric.png|center|500x800 px|Taped fabric|link=Special:FilePath/Taped_fabric.png]]
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Taped fabric</div>
 +
 +
*Resume print and watch your 3D printing fabric being formed.
 +
 +
Note: Tulle is a mesh fabric, the first 3D printed part can adhere to the second 3D printed part between the little holes in the fabric, causing the latter to be securely held.
 +
 +
On the other hand, holes need to be made for other fabric types such as woven fabrics to enable the fabric to be stuck between the 3D printed parts.
 +
 +
===Perforating woven fabric===
 +
 +
The following steps demonstrate how and what kind of holes should be made in your fabric:
 +
 +
*Measure the amount of fabric you would need
 +
*We will use the laser cutter to cut out the fabric, you can use Inkscape to make the perforations.
 +
[[File: Perforation Inkscape.png|center|500x800 px| Perforations|link=Special:FilePath/Perforations]]
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Perforations Inkscape design </div>
 +
 +
Note: This design was used to maximize cohesion.
 +
* Iron your fabric and lay it on a piece of MDF. Tape it securely into place.
 +
 +
[[File: Fabric on board in laser cutter.png|center|500x800 px| Fabric on board in laser cutter|link=Special:FilePath/Fabric_on_board_in_laser_cutter.png]]
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Fabric on board in laser cutter </div>
 +
 +
* Configure the properties as follows:
 +
Note: Laser Cutter used: Epilog Mini
 +
 +
The properties depend on the fabric used:
 +
 +
Vector Settings:
 +
 +
* Speed: 100 %
 +
* Power: 10 %
 +
* Frequency: 150 Hz
 +
 +
*Begin cut:
 +
[[File:Perforations.png|thumb|Figure 12.Perforated fabric]]
 +
 +
 +
 +
 +
 +
 +
 +
The different configurations will vary depending on the printer, the material or the type of fabric you are using for your project.
 +
 +
Yet, the overall process for 3D printing on fabric remains similar, that is, you should incorporate your fabric in between the two stages of printing.
 +
 +
== Applications of 3D printing on fabric ==
 +
The following examples demonstrate how you can apply this concept:
 +
 +
[[File:Application1.png|center|Dragon hands]]
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. Dragon hands</div>
 +
 +
 +
 +
[[File:Application2.png|center|200x200px|Necklace]]
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Necklace</div>
 +
 +
[[File:Application3.png|center|200x200px|Vest]]
 +
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15. Vest</div>
 +
 +
== References ==
 +
<references />

Latest revision as of 18:42, 30 August 2024

Introduction

3D printing is so versatile that it can also be incorporated into fabric, hence bringing rise to futuristic garment features.

It has flourished in the fashion industry, and many famous brands are already making and selling 3D-printed garments.

3D printing enables you to create your own designs for your clothes and personalize them as you would like. From cosplayers' costumes to footwear to pieces of jewelry to intricate patterns for your old shirts, 3D printing can bring your creations to life.

3D printing on fabric

[1]

Figure 1. 3D printed fabric

This document will give you an overview of how to 3D print on fabrics.

It will show three examples, each with its own filament, however the technique remains fairly the same.

3D printing on fabric examples

The following figures depict the final products obtained:

Dragon Scales

Dragon scales are inevitable when you are dealing with cosplayers’ costumes.

Moreover, their whimsical look can be pleasant for fantasy fans.

As shown in the picture, you can create your own dragon scale fabrics by incorporating your fabric between your 3D printed parts.

Wood fill dragon scales
Figure 2. Wood fill dragon scales

Glow in the dark Hexagons

The hexagons form a delightful pattern which may be ideal for making pieces of jewelry.

Glow-in-the-dark hexagons
Figure 3. Glow-in-the-dark hexagons


Photochromatic Snap Buttons

Snap buttons can revolutionize the way you use buttons, which are usually sewn on your shirts.

Snap buttons
Figure 4. Photochromatic snap buttons on woven fabric


Snap buttons
Figure 5. Photochromatic snap buttons


Snap buttons
Figure 6. Photochromatic snap buttons under UV light


Different types of filaments were used. You can use the material of your choice and make the necessary changes in your 3D slicer.

Filament used

The following table shows the printers used for each filament type and some of the difficulties that came up.

The printer, Flsun v400 was the first option for all three examples since it is faster and was ideal for filaments of 1.75 mm, unfortunately one filament type did not perform well with this printer, specifically the Woodfill PLA.

Printer Filament Slicer Difficulties encountered
Colour fab Wood fill PLA (2.85 mm) Ultimaker 2+-Nozzle 0.4 mm Cura
  • Incessant clogging with Flsun v400 printer
  • Filament got burnt several times v400 nozzle
  • Over extrusion with a 0.8 mm nozzle-UMP
  • Was not adhering to build plate-UMP
Glow in the dark PLA (1.75 mm) Flsun v400 Cura No significant difficulties were encountered, it worked like normal PLA
Photochromatic PLA (1.75 mm) Flsun v400 Cura No significant difficulties were encountered, it worked like normal PLA
Table 1. Filament used

Note: Some specialty filaments are abrasive and can severely damage the nozzle

Getting Started

Preparing your model

A 3D CAD software, such as Onshape can be used to build up your model from scratch.

Or you can find some readily available designs online on Thingiverse.

Note: The dragon scales and the hexagons were from Thingiverse.

-Dragon scales[2]

-Hexagons[3]

-Snap buttons[4]

Slicer

Now you must bring your model to your slicer.

To use the slicer:

  • Download the slicer you will need for free or use one of Makerspace's computers. In our example we will be using Ultimaker Cura.
  • Bring your model to your slicer. Remember to save your file as STL.

Print settings

The following table shows the changes made in the print settings; all other settings were left the same.

Dragon scales Hexagons Snap buttons
Material Wood fill PLA colorFabb Woodfill Generic PLA Generic PLA
Nozzle size 0.4 mm 0.4 mm 0.4 mm
Infill pattern Grid Grid Grid
Infill density 10 % 10 % 10 %
Layer height 0.15 mm 0.20 mm 0.15 mm
Print speed _ 150 mm/s 150 mm/s
Build-plate adhesion None None None
Printing temperature _ 210 °C 210 °C
Build-plate temperature _ 60 °C 60 °C
Table 2. Filament used

Additionally, to facilitate the printing process after incorporating the fabric,

Go to Custom --> All in the Print settings and enable the following:

  • Enable Retraction-reduces stringing,
  • Z Hop when retracted-prevents nozzle from dragging along surface,
All print settings
Fig 7. All print settings

Note: For the Ultimaker printer, you may have to clean the build plate and adjust its level if your filament is not adhering to it.

  • To clean: Use the cleaner available and paper towels and carefully wipe the build plate.
  • To adjust level: At the Ultimaker printer go to Maintenance -> Build plate and follow the instructions given.
Calibrating the build-plate:

Calibrating the plate may be necessary when dealing with specialty filament, more information can be found on the following link.

Gathering materials

Before starting your print, ensure that you have the following materials:

  • Fabric
  • Tape
  • Scissors
  • Ruler

After gathering your materials,

  • Measure out the amount of fabric you would need and cut it out.

Note: Your fabric should be smaller than the print area.

  • The fabrics used were tulle and a woven fabric.

Starting your print

Note that the printing will be in two stages.

The first stage will be before the fabric is embedded in the 3D printed part and the second stage will be after its incorporation.

  • Save your model and bring it to the printer.
  • Switch on the printer and do the necessary configuration depending on the material you are using.
  • Begin print.

Let it print the first two layers of your model as shown below:

First stage print
Figure 8. First stage print
  • Pause your print
Incorporating your fabric
  • Place your fabric on the part that has been printed.
Taped fabric
Figure 9. Taped fabric
  • Resume print and watch your 3D printing fabric being formed.

Note: Tulle is a mesh fabric, the first 3D printed part can adhere to the second 3D printed part between the little holes in the fabric, causing the latter to be securely held.

On the other hand, holes need to be made for other fabric types such as woven fabrics to enable the fabric to be stuck between the 3D printed parts.

Perforating woven fabric

The following steps demonstrate how and what kind of holes should be made in your fabric:

  • Measure the amount of fabric you would need
  • We will use the laser cutter to cut out the fabric, you can use Inkscape to make the perforations.
Perforations
Figure 10. Perforations Inkscape design

Note: This design was used to maximize cohesion.

  • Iron your fabric and lay it on a piece of MDF. Tape it securely into place.
Fabric on board in laser cutter
Figure 11. Fabric on board in laser cutter
  • Configure the properties as follows:

Note: Laser Cutter used: Epilog Mini

The properties depend on the fabric used:

Vector Settings:

  • Speed: 100 %
  • Power: 10 %
  • Frequency: 150 Hz
  • Begin cut:
Figure 12.Perforated fabric




The different configurations will vary depending on the printer, the material or the type of fabric you are using for your project.

Yet, the overall process for 3D printing on fabric remains similar, that is, you should incorporate your fabric in between the two stages of printing.

Applications of 3D printing on fabric

The following examples demonstrate how you can apply this concept:

Dragon hands
Figure 13. Dragon hands


Necklace
Figure 14. Necklace
Vest
Figure 15. Vest

References

  1. https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/the-mit-scientists-making-3d-printed-fabrics-as-soft-as-skin-157609/
  2. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3470986/files
  3. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4603936/files
  4. https://www.instructables.com/How-to-3D-Print-Onto-Fabric/