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Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-25T15:41:13Z

Strem078: /* Pinch Hazard */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

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3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings. If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
[[File:FDM Printing Process.png|thumb|Image showing how material is laid down in layers to build up a 3D object in the FDM printing process.<ref>Gringer (Wikipedia User, 2018). Fused Filament Fabrication. Wikipedia. Accessed 2022-07-25 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication</ref>|alt=]]
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>|alt=|thumb]]

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing|Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing]] ==
<youtube>Jj2cx4nQ3IE</youtube>

=== Burn Hazard ===
Since FDM 3D printers melt materials, these carry an important burn hazard. Refrain from touching the 3D printer nozzle (200°C and hotter) and build plate (60°C and hotter). Hot parts are typically labelled on machines, but it can happen for the labelling to become worn down, and such it is important for you to know of these hazards so you may protect yourself against them.

=== Respiratory Hazard ===
It has been reported that materials melted by FDM printers can release harmful airborne particulates. It is important to use 3D printers in well ventilated areas or to use printers equipped with an air extractor. Air quality measurements of our Makerspace (STEM 107) have been professionally taken with 24 Ultimaker 2+ printers running for extended periods of time (as would be the case on a very busy day at the Makerspace). Thanks to proper ventilation of the space, the particulate concentration measured is well below regulatory limits.

=== Fire Hazard ===
Since the 3D printing process involves lots of heat and plastics, most of which are flammable, if the plastic being used runs out or accumulates around the printer nozzle and the temperature sensors limiting the nozzle temperature malfunctions, the printer could catch fire from overheating. This is why unsupervised (such as overnight) printing is prohibited on printers that have no shutoff mechanisms that would avoid conditions that may lead to the printer catching fire.

=== Pinch Hazard ===
Since printers have exposed moving parts, and the movements of the print head can be unexpected, the printers present a pinch hazard. Avoid introducing body parts close to a printer's moving parts.

=== Bodily Harm Hazard ===
''<u>While bodily harm hazards are not applicable to the small FDM printers in our Makerspace</u>'', they may be very real on larger printers where the drive mechanisms are very powerful to account for fast and accurate movements of a heavy print head. As a general rule when working with industrial machinery, please refrain from introducing any parts of your body within the range of movement of the print head or near exposed moving parts of machinery while it is powered on.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
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There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
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====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
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Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
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Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-25T15:38:26Z

Strem078: /* Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings. If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
[[File:FDM Printing Process.png|thumb|Image showing how material is laid down in layers to build up a 3D object in the FDM printing process.<ref>Gringer (Wikipedia User, 2018). Fused Filament Fabrication. Wikipedia. Accessed 2022-07-25 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication</ref>|alt=]]
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>|alt=|thumb]]

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing|Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing]] ==
<youtube>Jj2cx4nQ3IE</youtube>

=== Burn Hazard ===
Since FDM 3D printers melt materials, these carry an important burn hazard. Refrain from touching the 3D printer nozzle (200°C and hotter) and build plate (60°C and hotter). Hot parts are typically labelled on machines, but it can happen for the labelling to become worn down, and such it is important for you to know of these hazards so you may protect yourself against them.

=== Respiratory Hazard ===
It has been reported that materials melted by FDM printers can release harmful airborne particulates. It is important to use 3D printers in well ventilated areas or to use printers equipped with an air extractor. Air quality measurements of our Makerspace (STEM 107) have been professionally taken with 24 Ultimaker 2+ printers running for extended periods of time (as would be the case on a very busy day at the Makerspace). Thanks to proper ventilation of the space, the particulate concentration measured is well below regulatory limits.

=== Fire Hazard ===
Since the 3D printing process involves lots of heat and plastics, most of which are flammable, if the plastic being used runs out or accumulates around the printer nozzle and the temperature sensors limiting the nozzle temperature malfunctions, the printer could catch fire from overheating. This is why unsupervised (such as overnight) printing is prohibited on printers that have no shutoff mechanisms that would avoid conditions that may lead to the printer catching fire.

=== Pinch Hazard ===
Since printers have exposed moving parts, they represent a pinch hazard. Avoid introducing body parts close to a printer's moving parts.

=== Bodily Harm Hazard ===
''<u>While bodily harm hazards are not applicable to the small FDM printers in our Makerspace</u>'', they may be very real on larger printers where the drive mechanisms are very powerful to account for fast and accurate movements of a heavy print head. As a general rule when working with industrial machinery, please refrain from introducing any parts of your body within the range of movement of the print head or near exposed moving parts of machinery while it is powered on.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
<youtube>sumwQ-b_jlc</youtube>

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
<youtube>uKsou-GEzt0</youtube>

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing

2022-07-25T15:21:13Z

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{{#lsth:Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner|[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing|Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing]]}}

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-25T15:20:25Z

Strem078: /* Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used. Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings. If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
[[File:FDM Printing Process.png|thumb|Image showing how material is laid down in layers to build up a 3D object in the FDM printing process.<ref>Gringer (Wikipedia User, 2018). Fused Filament Fabrication. Wikipedia. Accessed 2022-07-25 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication</ref>|alt=]]
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>|alt=|thumb]]

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing|Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing]] ==

=== Burn Hazard ===
Since FDM 3D printers melt materials, these carry an important burn hazard. Refrain from touching the 3D printer nozzle (200°C and hotter) and build plate (60°C and hotter). Hot parts are typically labelled on machines, but it can happen for the labelling to become worn down, and such it is important for you to know of these hazards so you may protect yourself against them.

=== Respiratory Hazard ===
It has been reported that materials melted by FDM printers can release harmful airborne particulates. It is important to use 3D printers in well ventilated areas or to use printers equipped with an air extractor. Air quality measurements of our Makerspace (STEM 107) have been professionally taken with 24 Ultimaker 2+ printers running for extended periods of time (as would be the case on a very busy day at the Makerspace). Thanks to proper ventilation of the space, the particulate concentration measured is well below regulatory limits.

=== Fire Hazard ===
Since the 3D printing process involves lots of heat and plastics, most of which are flammable, if the plastic being used runs out or accumulates around the printer nozzle and the temperature sensors limiting the nozzle temperature malfunctions, the printer could catch fire from overheating. This is why unsupervised (such as overnight) printing is prohibited on printers that have no shutoff mechanisms that would avoid conditions that may lead to the printer catching fire.

=== Pinch Hazard ===
Since printers have exposed moving parts, they represent a pinch hazard. Avoid introducing body parts close to a printer's moving parts.

=== Bodily Harm Hazard ===
''<u>While bodily harm hazards are not applicable to the small FDM printers in our Makerspace</u>'', they may be very real on larger printers where the drive mechanisms are very powerful to account for fast and accurate movements of a heavy print head. As a general rule when working with industrial machinery, please refrain from introducing any parts of your body within the range of movement of the print head or near exposed moving parts of machinery while it is powered on.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
<youtube>sumwQ-b_jlc</youtube>

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
<youtube>uKsou-GEzt0</youtube>

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-25T15:16:28Z

Strem078: /* How do FDM Printers Work? */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used. Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings. If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
[[File:FDM Printing Process.png|thumb|Image showing how material is laid down in layers to build up a 3D object in the FDM printing process.<ref>Gringer (Wikipedia User, 2018). Fused Filament Fabrication. Wikipedia. Accessed 2022-07-25 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication</ref>|alt=]]
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>|alt=|thumb]]

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

== Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing ==

=== Burn Hazard ===
Since FDM 3D printers melt materials, these carry an important burn hazard. Refrain from touching the 3D printer nozzle (200°C and hotter) and build plate (60°C and hotter). Hot parts are typically labelled on machines, but it can happen for the labelling to become worn down, and such it is important for you to know of these hazards so you may protect yourself against them.

=== Respiratory Hazard ===
It has been reported that materials melted by FDM printers can release harmful airborne particulates. It is important to use 3D printers in well ventilated areas or to use printers equipped with an air extractor. Air quality measurements of our Makerspace (STEM 107) have been professionally taken with 24 Ultimaker 2+ printers running for extended periods of time (as would be the case on a very busy day at the Makerspace). Thanks to proper ventilation of the space, the particulate concentration measured is well below regulatory limits.

=== Fire Hazard ===
Since the 3D printing process involves lots of heat and plastics, most of which are flammable, if the plastic being used runs out or accumulates around the printer nozzle and the temperature sensors limiting the nozzle temperature malfunctions, the printer could catch fire from overheating. This is why unsupervised (such as overnight) printing is prohibited on printers that have no shutoff mechanisms that would avoid conditions that may lead to the printer catching fire.

=== Pinch Hazard ===
Since printers have exposed moving parts, they represent a pinch hazard. Avoid introducing body parts close to a printer's moving parts.

=== Bodily Harm Hazard ===
''<u>While bodily harm hazards are not applicable to the small FDM printers in our Makerspace</u>'', they may be very real on larger printers where the drive mechanisms are very powerful to account for fast and accurate movements of a heavy print head. As a general rule when working with industrial machinery, please refrain from introducing any parts of your body within the range of movement of the print head or near exposed moving parts of machinery while it is powered on.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
<youtube>sumwQ-b_jlc</youtube>

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
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Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-25T15:13:43Z

Strem078: /* How do FDM Printers Work? */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used. Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings. If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
[[File:FDM Printing Process.png|thumb|Image showing how material is laid down in layers to build up a 3D object in the FDM printing process.]]
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>|alt=|thumb]]

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

== Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing ==

=== Burn Hazard ===
Since FDM 3D printers melt materials, these carry an important burn hazard. Refrain from touching the 3D printer nozzle (200°C and hotter) and build plate (60°C and hotter). Hot parts are typically labelled on machines, but it can happen for the labelling to become worn down, and such it is important for you to know of these hazards so you may protect yourself against them.

=== Respiratory Hazard ===
It has been reported that materials melted by FDM printers can release harmful airborne particulates. It is important to use 3D printers in well ventilated areas or to use printers equipped with an air extractor. Air quality measurements of our Makerspace (STEM 107) have been professionally taken with 24 Ultimaker 2+ printers running for extended periods of time (as would be the case on a very busy day at the Makerspace). Thanks to proper ventilation of the space, the particulate concentration measured is well below regulatory limits.

=== Fire Hazard ===
Since the 3D printing process involves lots of heat and plastics, most of which are flammable, if the plastic being used runs out or accumulates around the printer nozzle and the temperature sensors limiting the nozzle temperature malfunctions, the printer could catch fire from overheating. This is why unsupervised (such as overnight) printing is prohibited on printers that have no shutoff mechanisms that would avoid conditions that may lead to the printer catching fire.

=== Pinch Hazard ===
Since printers have exposed moving parts, they represent a pinch hazard. Avoid introducing body parts close to a printer's moving parts.

=== Bodily Harm Hazard ===
''<u>While bodily harm hazards are not applicable to the small FDM printers in our Makerspace</u>'', they may be very real on larger printers where the drive mechanisms are very powerful to account for fast and accurate movements of a heavy print head. As a general rule when working with industrial machinery, please refrain from introducing any parts of your body within the range of movement of the print head or near exposed moving parts of machinery while it is powered on.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
<youtube>sumwQ-b_jlc</youtube>

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
<youtube>uKsou-GEzt0</youtube>

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

File:FDM Printing Process.png

2022-07-25T15:11:46Z

Strem078: Image showing how material is laid down in the FDM printing process.

== Summary ==
Image showing how material is laid down in the FDM printing process.

File:FDM-Process.jpg

2022-07-25T14:58:23Z

Strem078: A picture showing how material is laid down in the FDM process.

== Summary ==
A picture showing how material is laid down in the FDM process.

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-25T14:53:46Z

Strem078:

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used. Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings. If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|center|frame|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>]]

=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

== Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing ==

=== Burn Hazard ===
Since FDM 3D printers melt materials, these carry an important burn hazard. Refrain from touching the 3D printer nozzle (200°C and hotter) and build plate (60°C and hotter). Hot parts are typically labelled on machines, but it can happen for the labelling to become worn down, and such it is important for you to know of these hazards so you may protect yourself against them.

=== Respiratory Hazard ===
It has been reported that materials melted by FDM printers can release harmful airborne particulates. It is important to use 3D printers in well ventilated areas or to use printers equipped with an air extractor. Air quality measurements of our Makerspace (STEM 107) have been professionally taken with 24 Ultimaker 2+ printers running for extended periods of time (as would be the case on a very busy day at the Makerspace). Thanks to proper ventilation of the space, the particulate concentration measured is well below regulatory limits.

=== Fire Hazard ===
Since the 3D printing process involves lots of heat and plastics, most of which are flammable, if the plastic being used runs out or accumulates around the printer nozzle and the temperature sensors limiting the nozzle temperature malfunctions, the printer could catch fire from overheating. This is why unsupervised (such as overnight) printing is prohibited on printers that have no shutoff mechanisms that would avoid conditions that may lead to the printer catching fire.

=== Pinch Hazard ===
Since printers have exposed moving parts, they represent a pinch hazard. Avoid introducing body parts close to a printer's moving parts.

=== Bodily Harm Hazard ===
''<u>While bodily harm hazards are not applicable to the small FDM printers in our Makerspace</u>'', they may be very real on larger printers where the drive mechanisms are very powerful to account for fast and accurate movements of a heavy print head. As a general rule when working with industrial machinery, please refrain from introducing any parts of your body within the range of movement of the print head or near exposed moving parts of machinery while it is powered on.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
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There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
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Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
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Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-25T13:45:54Z

Strem078: /* Which 3D printers do we have? */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used. Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings. If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|center|frame|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>]]

=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
<youtube>sumwQ-b_jlc</youtube>

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
<youtube>uKsou-GEzt0</youtube>

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-22T15:40:03Z

Strem078:

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used. Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings. If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|center|frame|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>]]

=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2%2B. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
<youtube>sumwQ-b_jlc</youtube>

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
<youtube>uKsou-GEzt0</youtube>

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-22T15:09:57Z

Strem078: /* Slicing */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|center|frame|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>]]

=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2%2B. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
<youtube>sumwQ-b_jlc</youtube>

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
<youtube>uKsou-GEzt0</youtube>

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-22T15:09:35Z

Strem078: /* Save or download the model as an stl */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|center|frame|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>]]

=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2%2B. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
<youtube>sumwQ-b_jlc</youtube>

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===

====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
<youtube>uKsou-GEzt0</youtube>

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-22T15:05:06Z

Strem078: /* Create or Find a 3D model */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|center|frame|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>]]

=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2%2B. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
<youtube>sumwQ-b_jlc</youtube>

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a stereolithography file format (an old cad software). STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===

====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
<youtube>uKsou-GEzt0</youtube>

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-22T15:03:48Z

Strem078: /* Start the print */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|center|frame|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>]]

=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2%2B. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a stereolithography file format (an old cad software). STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===

====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
<youtube>uKsou-GEzt0</youtube>

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-22T15:00:37Z

Strem078: /* Troubleshooting a failing print */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|center|frame|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>]]

=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2%2B. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a stereolithography file format (an old cad software). STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===

====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
<youtube>uKsou-GEzt0</youtube>

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-22T14:56:46Z

Strem078: /* How do FDM Printers Work? */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|center|frame|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>]]

=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2%2B. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a stereolithography file format (an old cad software). STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===

====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-07-22T14:56:13Z

Strem078: /* How do FDM Printers Work? */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>
Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|center|frame|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>]]

=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2%2B. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a stereolithography file format (an old cad software). STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===

====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/Design for 3D Printing

2022-07-20T21:52:49Z

Strem078: Created page with "{{#lsth:Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate|Design for 3D Printing}}"

{{#lsth:Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate|[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/Design for 3D Printing|Design for 3D Printing]]}}

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate

2022-07-20T21:51:55Z

Strem078: /* Design for 3D Printing */

TinkerCAD is nice for smaller parts with very little complexity. However, since it is not [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-uniform_rational_B-spline NURBS] based nor parametric, it lacks major functionality. It is strongly suggested at this stage that TinkerCAD, Blender, Cinema 4D or other [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polygonal_modeling polygonal modelling] (non-NURBS) applications be set aside for parametric CAD software, such as [https://www.autodesk.ca/en/products/fusion-360 Autodesk Fusion 360] ([https://www.autodesk.ca/en/products/fusion-360/students-teachers-educators free for students. teachers, and educators]), [https://www.solidworks.com/ Dassault Systèmes Solidworks] (available through Remote Apps) or [https://www.onshape.com/en/ PTC OnShape] (completely online, free for students and educators) be used for mechanical design, as models made with such software contain much richer data that allows going from CAD models to manufacturing data. Polygonal modelling remains, however, an important tool for Scan to CAD, and such the intermediate CAD user should have a complete understanding of polygonal modelling software such as TinkerCAD.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/TinkerCAD (contd.)|TinkerCAD (contd.)]]==

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/Design for 3D Printing|Design for 3D Printing]] ==
If your design is to be used in (electro-)mechanical assemblies in which there are interfacing components, it is important that you understand three basic tolerancing concepts and to keep them in the back of your mind when modeling or more generally designing these assemblies.

# Form: The form of a part refers to the overall dimensions and the shape of the exterior surfaces of a component. Think of a flaw referring to form as a print that ended up not matching the base geometry that was used to create it in CAD due to adverse physical variables during the printing process. Examples follow:
## A ''sphere'' may end up slightly ''oval'' once printed due to improper cooling, etc.;
## A pillar might end up tilted to one side due to improper belt tension between the belt axes, etc.;
## A pin feature might end up too large to fit its mating hole due to the printer outputting too much material when producing the outer walls of the feature (the inverse can also be true).
# Position: Position refers to the distance separating a feature and an (ideally) meaningful reference (i.e.: the distance between a hole and the side of a part, or between two holes). Thankfully, flaws pertaining to position are rare on a properly tuned printer, as the printer does not have any information about existing references other than the build plate. If tuned properly, the printer will always print a feature at a position (X,Y,Z) distance relative to another feature, because that is what the gCode will tell it to do. You can imagine, however, that if the part is warped, the 'build plate reference' is no longer valid, and such, warped parts almost always have features out of position <u>''unless the meaningful reference (interfacing feature) used in the design is not the build plate''.</u> However, since the build plate reference is such an important one to define the Z position of features (for the printer, that is), making your meaningful reference something other than the build plate does not always guarantee you good positional tolerance independent of warping.
# Surface: The surface finish of a part is a rather complex subject. In 3D printing, and for typical applications of 3D printed parts, it mostly refers to the mean (statistical) difference between the height of cusps and valleys on a part and their deviation from that mean, at a macroscopic level. The most important consideration is that when 3D printing, most surface finishes are quite rough (deviate significantly from the mean), and thus are sanded down considerably to knock out the cusps left by the printer. This post processing can negatively affect the form of the final part.

Note that <u>''a proper mechanical fit between components demands a good tolerance on form, feature position, and surface finish'',</u> such that it is typically impossible to obtain a proper fit when 3D printing, and that if you are considering the 3D printing of critically interfacing components, 3D printing should not be used unless post processing ''<u>is built into the design</u>''. For mechanical designs, you will notice that a main application is brackets. This is because brackets only need good positional tolerance on holes and mating faces, which 3D printing can almost always provide (the tolerance on form for holes is not that important since they are typically clearance holes). However, since some brackets are easily laser cut, 3D printing brackets is only done under certain specific conditions. It certainly has shown its commercial use in cost cutting by replacing intricate multi-part assemblies by ''generatively designed'' (we'll say computer generated for now) parts, as shown in the picture below.
[[File:Design for 3D Printing Generatively Designed Bracket.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px|A metal 3D printed generatively designed bracket (computer generated from load data, using Finite Element Analysis), likely replacing a multitude of other parts that would have been manufactured using traditional manufacturing methods which would lead to a heavier and more expensive bracket.<ref>CarrusHome (2021). GM Explores 3D printing, generative design for next gen parts. Consulted on 05-05-2022 at <nowiki>https://www.carrushome.com/en/gm-explores-3d-printing-generative-design-for-next-gen-parts/</nowiki></ref>]]

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/CAD Extensions|CAD Extensions]]==
The following are extensions for common polygonal and NURBS formats.

===Polygonal Formats===

*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format) Standard Triangle Language (*.STL)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wavefront_.obj_file Wavefront OBJ (*.OBJ)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3D_Manufacturing_Format 3D Manufacturing Format (*.3MF)]

===NURBS Formats===

====Standard====

*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10303 ISO10303 - Standard for the Exchange of Product model data (*.STP, *.STEP)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AutoCAD_DXF AutoCAD Drawing Exchange Format (*.DXF/*.DWG)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IGES Initial Graphics Exchange Specification (*.IGES)] (standard last updated 1996)

====Software-Specific====

*DS Solidworks Parts (*.SLDPRT)
*DS Solidworks Assemblies (*.SLDASM)
*DS CATIA V5 Parts (*.CGR/*.CATPart)
*DS CATIA V5 Assemblies (*.CGR/*.CATProduct)
*PTC Creo Parts (*.PRT)
*PTC Creo Assemblies (*.ASM)

*Fusion 360 (*.F3D)

It should be noted that Fusion360 stores files on the cloud, such that locally saved .f3d files are not commonly encountered. It should also be noted that OnShape does not have a file format given it is hosted entirely on the cloud.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/Using Parametric NURBS Software|Using Parametric NURBS Software]]==

== References ==
<references />

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner

2022-07-20T21:49:58Z

Strem078: /* Design for 3D Printing */

Tinkercad is an easy software that allows you to design 3D designs. It is easy to learn and simple to use. We strongly suggest you use this if this is your first time designing in 3D. To begin with, go to tinkercad.com and create an account. We recommend you create an Autodesk account. It's free and if you are a student, you get to have access to a bunch other Autodesk software for free!

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner/TinkerCAD Layout|TinkerCAD Layout]]==

===Splash Page (Designs & Projects)===
The TinkerCAD splash page is very simple. On the left, you may switch design categories. This is necessary because TinkerCAD allows design of electronics circuitry and code as well as 3D modeling! For this wiki page, the relevant mode is 3D Design. On the centre of your page, you will find all your designs. It is recommended that you do not forget altogether about the navigation on the left, since chances are that you will want to create a project at some point, that will include all three design categories, for which we recommend you create a project in TinkerCAD, which can hold all design categories. This will help with keeping your workspace organised. The following buttons are useful

*Tinkercad logo: Clicking on the Tinkercad logo with bring you back to the splash page
*LEARN: The LEARN is where you can find tutorials to help you navigate the software a little easier. There are also lessons walking you through basic projects to inspire different ideas and to practice with the software.
*GALLERY: The GALLERY is where you can see projects that other people have made visible to the public, you can copy and modify those designs or inspire yourself from them.
*Create a new design: To create a new design in Tinkercad, sign in and it will lead you to the desktop. Select the '''Create new design''' button and this will bring you to a blank workspace.

If you wish to modify a 3D model, click on the model on the main section, and then click 'Tinker this' to access the CAD Modeling page.

===CAD Modeling===
The design page has quite a few sections and buttons, but it all remains quite straightforward. Refer to the following image for a list of buttons. For some of the buttons, the function is self-explanatory. If you are unsure what a button does, it is likely that the function is explained in the rest of the 3D modeling beginner content.
[[File:TinkerCAD Design EN.svg|alt=Description of 3D design buttons.|center|The 3D design mode layout with the description for each annotated.|thumb|1000x1000px]]

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner/Create a New Design|Create a New Design]]==
When you click “Create a new design" in the splash page, you are brought to a new window with a blue, gridded, base workplane (as illustrated in the section above). Think of the base workplane as a floor or the base of the 3D printer. You want to make sure that the part you are building is sitting on the this surface. This is where you will do your designing. There are several tools which you can use to help you design.

#Name of your design: To change the name of your design, click on the automatically generated name that is in the top left corner. This is useful to be able to find the design later and know what it is.
#View square: Drag around the square to change the viewing angle.
#View buttons: Bring the viewing angle back to home, change the zoom, switch to orthogonal view
#Show all: This will show any hidden shapes. While designing, you can choose to hide a shape. This is sometimes helpful if you want to see a piece that is under another.
#Group: Take several shapes and turn them into one shape
#Ungroup: Take a shape that is composed of several pieces, and separate them back into individual pieces.
#Align: Align several pieces
#Mirror: Mirror a component
#Import: You can also import shapes that have already been created using the '''Import''' button. You can add both 2D and 3D shapes. The file type for 2D shapes needs to be “'''.svg'''”, and the file type for 3D shapes is “'''.stl'''” or “'''.obj'''”
#Export: Download the selected object or everything on the build plate. Download it as an .stl for 3D printing and a .svg for laser cutting.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner/Using TinkerCAD|Using TinkerCAD]]==
On the right hand side there are a series of different shapes that you can place on the your workplane (shape browser). These are your building blocks. If you click on building '''Basic Shapes''' you can select different types of shapes (or blocks).
[[File:Basicshapes.png|alt=|none|thumb|400x400px|The shape type selector drop down.]]

There are shapes that are registered as '''Holes''' by default. These are hatched gray and white on the shape browser. If you move them to the workplane, they will appear translucent. As you will learn, this is not very useful because any shape can be turned into a hole. For example, if you found model you liked on Tinkercad and you wanted to add a new hole.

Once you have your shape you can change the size with:

*Black cube: Change one dimension
*White cube: Change two dimensions (unless it is the shape's height)
*Curved black arrows: Rotate shape in that plane
*Black cone: Raise or lower shape

[[File:TinkerCAD_Move_and_Scale_Shape_EN.svg|alt=|none|The shape position and size handles.|thumb|400x400px]]

If you are putting a piece on top of another, make sure the piece is not floating. Every piece should be touching another one or be on the platform.
[[File:Changeview.png|alt=|none|Perspective can be deceiving! Make sure your shapes are touching before trying to group them.|thumb|500x500px]]

When you have a shape selected, the '''Shape''' window will open on the top right part of your workspace. This tool lets you choose if this shape is solid (coloured in the workspace) or a hole (hashed and translucent in the workspace). If you want your shape to be a hole, select the hole button and the shape should become translucent. Mind you, it will not actually take into affect until you group those two objects. The group button, found on the top right hand side of your workspace (on the top ribbon), will only be available when there is more than one shape selected. You also want to group all your shapes before downloading (exporting) a model for 3D printing (unless you are working with 2 extruder heads and you want shapes to print independently from one-another).
[[File:Tinkercadgroup.png|alt=|none|thumb|500x500px|Grouping of a solid and a hole shape.]]
To change the name of your design, click on the automatically generated name that is in the top left corner. This is useful to be able to find the design later and know what it is. It is good practice to aim for a relevant name.
[[File:Tinkercadrename.png|alt=|none|thumb|500x500px|You can change the name of your design very easily.]]

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner/Other Tools in TinkerCAD|Other Tools in TinkerCAD]]==
Other useful tools can be found above the Tinkercad shapes menus.

{|
|-
|[[File:TinkerCAD_Workplane_Tool_Icon.svg|alt=|middle|frameless|100x100px]]
|'''Workplane (W)''' tool allows you to change the work plane to an alternate workplane. Drag it onto the edge of another shape, to set a new work plane. An orange work plane will appear. If you drag a shape onto the plane, it will already appear perpendicular to that plane. You can copy/cut shapes from one plane and paste them to other planes. To get rid of the new orange plane, drag a new plane back to the original blue one.
|-
| colspan="2" |[[File:Usingworkplane.png|frameless|center|800x800px|alt=]]
|}

{|
|-
|[[File:TinkerCAD Ruler Icon.svg|alt=|left|frameless|100x100px]]
|'''Ruler (R)''' allows for you to easily change the dimensions of a shape. Just place it anywhere on the workplane and dimensions from the ruler origin to the part origin as well as the part's major dimensions will appear. Just click on any of the dimensions and you can change their value. Highlighted in blue are the major dimensions, in green are the offsets between the shape's origin and that of the ruler. The ruler tool also has a mode where changing the dimensions of the shapes will happen symmetrically from the shape's midplanes. Simply click on the circled three lines (bottom left of the ruler origin) to toggle between modes. Toggling will change the reference of the ruler to the centre of the shape.
|-
| colspan="2" |[[File:Ruler.png|alt=Illustration of the ruler tool.|frameless|center|800x800px]]
|}

Next to the group button, there is another set of useful tools, '''Align (L)''' and '''Flip (M)'''.
{|
|-
|[[File:Align Icon.svg|frameless|middle|80x80px]]
|'''Align (L)''' will only be available when selecting more than one shape at the same time (you may box select or hold shift down while selecting shapes to select multiple). Of course, this makes sense, as the tool allows you to align two or more shapes relative to another. The alignment can be in either dimension, and is not limited to center alignment (shapes' sides can be aligned as well).
|-
|[[File:TinkerCAD Flip Icon.svg|frameless|middle|80x80px]]
|'''Flip (M)''' is available when one or more shapes are selected. This tool will allow you to mirror a part along its midplanes (X-Y, Y-Z or X-Z). If you select multiple shapes at the same time, the flip tool will see the selection as one shape and use the midplane of the selection as the midplane to perform the flip operation.
|}

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner/Printing your Design|Printing your Design]]==
When you are done, and you want to print your new design, click '''Export''' at the top right corner.
[[File:Tinkercadexportbutton.png|alt=|thumb|291x291px|You need to export your model to put it in a slicer software.]]
A new window will appear. If you want to 3D print, choose which shapes you want to print (everything or only some selected shapes) and select the format '''.STL'''. If you want to laser cut a projection of the shape, select the format '''.SVG'''.

For the actual 3D printing or your part, refer to the [[Digital technologies/3D printing|steps found in the 3D printing pages]].
==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner/Importing Models to TinkerCAD|Importing Models to TinkerCAD]]==
TinkerCAD can be a powerful tool for repairing or editing polygonal models (defined by triangles). Therefore, it is considered fundamental to CAD modeling in TinkerCAD to know how to import a model. You may import polygonal files (STL, OBJ, etc.) to TinkerCAD for modifications, repairs, etc. For example, if one wanted to add a label they designed to a model of a hand, this could be done in TinkerCAD. A hand is however hard to model, but there are lots of them on community CAD libraries, such as [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31331 Thingiverse] or [https://grabcad.com/library/anatomy-model-hand-1/details?folder_id=5812099 GrabCAD]. All that needs to be done, is for the model to be downloaded, and imported into TinkerCAD using the '''Import''' button. Once the model is imported, it will appear on the workplane. All the controls relating to shape modifications apply to the imported model! Here's an example of a composite model with the Thingiverse hand and the label from the beginner level proficiency projects example tag:
[[File:Hand Holding Label.png|none|thumb|600x600px|An imported hand model<ref>[https://www.thingiverse.com/john-010 John-010] (2012). ''iPhone Hand''. Thingiverse, accessed 2021-08-17 at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31331</ref> is used to illustrate a hand holding the beginner proficiency projects example label.|alt=]]

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner/Design for 3D Printing|Design for 3D Printing]]==
It is very important, while designing, to be aware of the limitations of the manufacturing method which will be used to make your design reality. Since this article focuses on 3D modeling for 3D printing, this section will only focus on those considerations relating to 3D printing. If you are unsure how 3D printing works, it is imperative that you read through the [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner|Beginner 3D Printing]] page on this wiki for you to understand the concepts and considerations discussed below.[[File:Poor-surface-above-supports.jpg|alt=Poor surface finish over supports|thumb|Picture showing the surface likely obtained over supports. As can be seen, the finish is extremely coarse.<ref>Simplify3D (2022). Poor Surface Above Supports. Accessed on 05-05-2022 at https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/poor-surface-above-supports/</ref>]]
===Supports===
As explained in the 3D printing page, supports are sometimes required to support overhanging sections of a print. Due to the downsides of supports discussed below, it is typically better to avoid supports altogether when designing for 3D printing.

====Form and surface roughness====
Supports will also require post processing such as removal and sanding (if a nice smooth finish is desired). When designing for mechanical assemblies, it is important to keep in mind that supported sections might sometimes sag slightly, affecting the form of the surface being printed. Therefore, when designing (modeling), make sure that interfacing geometries (those for which the correctness of the shape, or form, is critical as it is interfacing with other parts) are not overhanging.

====Hard to access supports====
Support removal should always be an important consideration whenever using them. Unless of course you are fine leaving your supports in your print (in which case you might as well enclose that volume and have it be an infilled volume), you will have to remove your supports at some point, and such, you should have them be easily accessible with at the very least some snub nose pliers. While soluble supports are an option, they are practically never used in our Makerspace for prints unless the surface finish and form of the print over a support is critical. While soluble supports are cool and all, most designs can avoid containing supports that are hard or impossible to reach.
[[File:Big Print Split.svg|thumb|A big print is split to ease printing.|alt=]]
===Build plate adhesion===
When printing, adhesion is one of the main considerations. Make sure your design contains an adequate flat section that, if used as a base for the print, will not lead to excessive overhangs. The Thingiverse hand is a bad example the way it is positioned in '''[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner#Importing Models to TinkerCAD|Importing Models]]''' section of this article, but the way the flat section of the wrist is designed, and considering the position of the fingers not significantly overhanging (perhaps the pinkie is slightly overhanging), placed on the its flat wrist section, this hand model is expected to print properly without the use of extra adhesion features, or even supports!

===Large prints===
Extremely large prints cannot fit your regular build plate (or build volume). Yes, the makerspace does own 3D printers with larger build volumes, but those using them are typically charged for machine time. Instead, it can be extremely easy to split larger prints into smaller sections, and to then adhere these components together once they are all printed. The result might even look better, as sectioned parts can be oriented on the build plate to reduce the use of supports or improve adhesion.

==References==
<references />

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate

2022-07-20T21:48:50Z

Strem078: /* Using Parametric NURBS Software */

TinkerCAD is nice for smaller parts with very little complexity. However, since it is not [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-uniform_rational_B-spline NURBS] based nor parametric, it lacks major functionality. It is strongly suggested at this stage that TinkerCAD, Blender, Cinema 4D or other [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polygonal_modeling polygonal modelling] (non-NURBS) applications be set aside for parametric CAD software, such as [https://www.autodesk.ca/en/products/fusion-360 Autodesk Fusion 360] ([https://www.autodesk.ca/en/products/fusion-360/students-teachers-educators free for students. teachers, and educators]), [https://www.solidworks.com/ Dassault Systèmes Solidworks] (available through Remote Apps) or [https://www.onshape.com/en/ PTC OnShape] (completely online, free for students and educators) be used for mechanical design, as models made with such software contain much richer data that allows going from CAD models to manufacturing data. Polygonal modelling remains, however, an important tool for Scan to CAD, and such the intermediate CAD user should have a complete understanding of polygonal modelling software such as TinkerCAD.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/TinkerCAD (contd.)|TinkerCAD (contd.)]]==

== Design for 3D Printing ==
If your design is to be used in (electro-)mechanical assemblies in which there are interfacing components, it is important that you understand three basic tolerancing concepts and to keep them in the back of your mind when modeling or more generally designing these assemblies.

# Form: The form of a part refers to the overall dimensions and the shape of the exterior surfaces of a component. Think of a flaw referring to form as a print that ended up not matching the base geometry that was used to create it in CAD due to adverse physical variables during the printing process. Examples follow:
## A ''sphere'' may end up slightly ''oval'' once printed due to improper cooling, etc.;
## A pillar might end up tilted to one side due to improper belt tension between the belt axes, etc.;
## A pin feature might end up too large to fit its mating hole due to the printer outputting too much material when producing the outer walls of the feature (the inverse can also be true).
# Position: Position refers to the distance separating a feature and an (ideally) meaningful reference (i.e.: the distance between a hole and the side of a part, or between two holes). Thankfully, flaws pertaining to position are rare on a properly tuned printer, as the printer does not have any information about existing references other than the build plate. If tuned properly, the printer will always print a feature at a position (X,Y,Z) distance relative to another feature, because that is what the gCode will tell it to do. You can imagine, however, that if the part is warped, the 'build plate reference' is no longer valid, and such, warped parts almost always have features out of position <u>''unless the meaningful reference (interfacing feature) used in the design is not the build plate''.</u> However, since the build plate reference is such an important one to define the Z position of features (for the printer, that is), making your meaningful reference something other than the build plate does not always guarantee you good positional tolerance independent of warping.
# Surface: The surface finish of a part is a rather complex subject. In 3D printing, and for typical applications of 3D printed parts, it mostly refers to the mean (statistical) difference between the height of cusps and valleys on a part and their deviation from that mean, at a macroscopic level. The most important consideration is that when 3D printing, most surface finishes are quite rough (deviate significantly from the mean), and thus are sanded down considerably to knock out the cusps left by the printer. This post processing can negatively affect the form of the final part.

Note that <u>''a proper mechanical fit between components demands a good tolerance on form, feature position, and surface finish'',</u> such that it is typically impossible to obtain a proper fit when 3D printing, and that if you are considering the 3D printing of critically interfacing components, 3D printing should not be used unless post processing ''<u>is built into the design</u>''. For mechanical designs, you will notice that a main application is brackets. This is because brackets only need good positional tolerance on holes and mating faces, which 3D printing can almost always provide (the tolerance on form for holes is not that important since they are typically clearance holes). However, since some brackets are easily laser cut, 3D printing brackets is only done under certain specific conditions. It certainly has shown its commercial use in cost cutting by replacing intricate multi-part assemblies by ''generatively designed'' (we'll say computer generated for now) parts, as shown in the picture below.
[[File:Design for 3D Printing Generatively Designed Bracket.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px|A metal 3D printed generatively designed bracket (computer generated from load data, using Finite Element Analysis), likely replacing a multitude of other parts that would have been manufactured using traditional manufacturing methods which would lead to a heavier and more expensive bracket.<ref>CarrusHome (2021). GM Explores 3D printing, generative design for next gen parts. Consulted on 05-05-2022 at <nowiki>https://www.carrushome.com/en/gm-explores-3d-printing-generative-design-for-next-gen-parts/</nowiki></ref>]]

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/CAD Extensions|CAD Extensions]]==
The following are extensions for common polygonal and NURBS formats.

===Polygonal Formats===

*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format) Standard Triangle Language (*.STL)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wavefront_.obj_file Wavefront OBJ (*.OBJ)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3D_Manufacturing_Format 3D Manufacturing Format (*.3MF)]

===NURBS Formats===

====Standard====

*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10303 ISO10303 - Standard for the Exchange of Product model data (*.STP, *.STEP)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AutoCAD_DXF AutoCAD Drawing Exchange Format (*.DXF/*.DWG)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IGES Initial Graphics Exchange Specification (*.IGES)] (standard last updated 1996)

====Software-Specific====

*DS Solidworks Parts (*.SLDPRT)
*DS Solidworks Assemblies (*.SLDASM)
*DS CATIA V5 Parts (*.CGR/*.CATPart)
*DS CATIA V5 Assemblies (*.CGR/*.CATProduct)
*PTC Creo Parts (*.PRT)
*PTC Creo Assemblies (*.ASM)

*Fusion 360 (*.F3D)

It should be noted that Fusion360 stores files on the cloud, such that locally saved .f3d files are not commonly encountered. It should also be noted that OnShape does not have a file format given it is hosted entirely on the cloud.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/Using Parametric NURBS Software|Using Parametric NURBS Software]]==

== References ==
<references />

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate

2022-07-20T21:48:29Z

Strem078: /* Design for 3D Printing */

TinkerCAD is nice for smaller parts with very little complexity. However, since it is not [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-uniform_rational_B-spline NURBS] based nor parametric, it lacks major functionality. It is strongly suggested at this stage that TinkerCAD, Blender, Cinema 4D or other [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polygonal_modeling polygonal modelling] (non-NURBS) applications be set aside for parametric CAD software, such as [https://www.autodesk.ca/en/products/fusion-360 Autodesk Fusion 360] ([https://www.autodesk.ca/en/products/fusion-360/students-teachers-educators free for students. teachers, and educators]), [https://www.solidworks.com/ Dassault Systèmes Solidworks] (available through Remote Apps) or [https://www.onshape.com/en/ PTC OnShape] (completely online, free for students and educators) be used for mechanical design, as models made with such software contain much richer data that allows going from CAD models to manufacturing data. Polygonal modelling remains, however, an important tool for Scan to CAD, and such the intermediate CAD user should have a complete understanding of polygonal modelling software such as TinkerCAD.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/TinkerCAD (contd.)|TinkerCAD (contd.)]]==

== Design for 3D Printing ==
If your design is to be used in (electro-)mechanical assemblies in which there are interfacing components, it is important that you understand three basic tolerancing concepts and to keep them in the back of your mind when modeling or more generally designing these assemblies.

# Form: The form of a part refers to the overall dimensions and the shape of the exterior surfaces of a component. Think of a flaw referring to form as a print that ended up not matching the base geometry that was used to create it in CAD due to adverse physical variables during the printing process. Examples follow:
## A ''sphere'' may end up slightly ''oval'' once printed due to improper cooling, etc.;
## A pillar might end up tilted to one side due to improper belt tension between the belt axes, etc.;
## A pin feature might end up too large to fit its mating hole due to the printer outputting too much material when producing the outer walls of the feature (the inverse can also be true).
# Position: Position refers to the distance separating a feature and an (ideally) meaningful reference (i.e.: the distance between a hole and the side of a part, or between two holes). Thankfully, flaws pertaining to position are rare on a properly tuned printer, as the printer does not have any information about existing references other than the build plate. If tuned properly, the printer will always print a feature at a position (X,Y,Z) distance relative to another feature, because that is what the gCode will tell it to do. You can imagine, however, that if the part is warped, the 'build plate reference' is no longer valid, and such, warped parts almost always have features out of position <u>''unless the meaningful reference (interfacing feature) used in the design is not the build plate''.</u> However, since the build plate reference is such an important one to define the Z position of features (for the printer, that is), making your meaningful reference something other than the build plate does not always guarantee you good positional tolerance independent of warping.
# Surface: The surface finish of a part is a rather complex subject. In 3D printing, and for typical applications of 3D printed parts, it mostly refers to the mean (statistical) difference between the height of cusps and valleys on a part and their deviation from that mean, at a macroscopic level. The most important consideration is that when 3D printing, most surface finishes are quite rough (deviate significantly from the mean), and thus are sanded down considerably to knock out the cusps left by the printer. This post processing can negatively affect the form of the final part.

Note that <u>''a proper mechanical fit between components demands a good tolerance on form, feature position, and surface finish'',</u> such that it is typically impossible to obtain a proper fit when 3D printing, and that if you are considering the 3D printing of critically interfacing components, 3D printing should not be used unless post processing ''<u>is built into the design</u>''. For mechanical designs, you will notice that a main application is brackets. This is because brackets only need good positional tolerance on holes and mating faces, which 3D printing can almost always provide (the tolerance on form for holes is not that important since they are typically clearance holes). However, since some brackets are easily laser cut, 3D printing brackets is only done under certain specific conditions. It certainly has shown its commercial use in cost cutting by replacing intricate multi-part assemblies by ''generatively designed'' (we'll say computer generated for now) parts, as shown in the picture below.
[[File:Design for 3D Printing Generatively Designed Bracket.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px|A metal 3D printed generatively designed bracket (computer generated from load data, using Finite Element Analysis), likely replacing a multitude of other parts that would have been manufactured using traditional manufacturing methods which would lead to a heavier and more expensive bracket.<ref>CarrusHome (2021). GM Explores 3D printing, generative design for next gen parts. Consulted on 05-05-2022 at <nowiki>https://www.carrushome.com/en/gm-explores-3d-printing-generative-design-for-next-gen-parts/</nowiki></ref>]]

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/CAD Extensions|CAD Extensions]]==
The following are extensions for common polygonal and NURBS formats.

===Polygonal Formats===

*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format) Standard Triangle Language (*.STL)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wavefront_.obj_file Wavefront OBJ (*.OBJ)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3D_Manufacturing_Format 3D Manufacturing Format (*.3MF)]

===NURBS Formats===

====Standard====

*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10303 ISO10303 - Standard for the Exchange of Product model data (*.STP, *.STEP)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AutoCAD_DXF AutoCAD Drawing Exchange Format (*.DXF/*.DWG)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IGES Initial Graphics Exchange Specification (*.IGES)] (standard last updated 1996)

====Software-Specific====

*DS Solidworks Parts (*.SLDPRT)
*DS Solidworks Assemblies (*.SLDASM)
*DS CATIA V5 Parts (*.CGR/*.CATPart)
*DS CATIA V5 Assemblies (*.CGR/*.CATProduct)
*PTC Creo Parts (*.PRT)
*PTC Creo Assemblies (*.ASM)

*Fusion 360 (*.F3D)

It should be noted that Fusion360 stores files on the cloud, such that locally saved .f3d files are not commonly encountered. It should also be noted that OnShape does not have a file format given it is hosted entirely on the cloud.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/Using Parametric NURBS Software|Using Parametric NURBS Software]]==
<br />

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate

2022-07-20T21:45:55Z

Strem078: /* Design for 3D Printing */

TinkerCAD is nice for smaller parts with very little complexity. However, since it is not [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-uniform_rational_B-spline NURBS] based nor parametric, it lacks major functionality. It is strongly suggested at this stage that TinkerCAD, Blender, Cinema 4D or other [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polygonal_modeling polygonal modelling] (non-NURBS) applications be set aside for parametric CAD software, such as [https://www.autodesk.ca/en/products/fusion-360 Autodesk Fusion 360] ([https://www.autodesk.ca/en/products/fusion-360/students-teachers-educators free for students. teachers, and educators]), [https://www.solidworks.com/ Dassault Systèmes Solidworks] (available through Remote Apps) or [https://www.onshape.com/en/ PTC OnShape] (completely online, free for students and educators) be used for mechanical design, as models made with such software contain much richer data that allows going from CAD models to manufacturing data. Polygonal modelling remains, however, an important tool for Scan to CAD, and such the intermediate CAD user should have a complete understanding of polygonal modelling software such as TinkerCAD.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/TinkerCAD (contd.)|TinkerCAD (contd.)]]==

== Design for 3D Printing ==
If your design is to be used in (electro-)mechanical assemblies in which there are interfacing components, it is important that you understand three basic tolerancing concepts and to keep them in the back of your mind when modeling or more generally designing these assemblies.

# Form: The form of a part refers to the overall dimensions and the shape of the exterior surfaces of a component. Think of a flaw referring to form as a print that ended up not matching the base geometry that was used to create it in CAD due to adverse physical variables during the printing process. Examples follow:
## A ''sphere'' may end up slightly ''oval'' once printed due to improper cooling, etc.;
## A pillar might end up tilted to one side due to improper belt tension between the belt axes, etc.;
## A pin feature might end up too large to fit its mating hole due to the printer outputting too much material when producing the outer walls of the feature (the inverse can also be true).
# Position: Position refers to the distance separating a feature and an (ideally) meaningful reference (i.e.: the distance between a hole and the side of a part, or between two holes). Thankfully, flaws pertaining to position are rare on a properly tuned printer, as the printer does not have any information about existing references other than the build plate. If tuned properly, the printer will always print a feature at a position (X,Y,Z) distance relative to another feature, because that is what the gCode will tell it to do. You can imagine, however, that if the part is warped, the 'build plate reference' is no longer valid, and such, warped parts almost always have features out of position <u>''unless the meaningful reference (interfacing feature) used in the design is not the build plate''.</u> However, since the build plate reference is such an important one to define the Z position of features (for the printer, that is), making your meaningful reference something other than the build plate does not always guarantee you good positional tolerance independent of warping.
# Surface: The surface finish of a part is a rather complex subject. In 3D printing, and for typical applications of 3D printed parts, it mostly refers to the mean (statistical) difference between the height of cusps and valleys on a part and their deviation from that mean, at a macroscopic level. The most important consideration is that when 3D printing, most surface finishes are quite rough (deviate significantly from the mean), and thus are sanded down considerably to knock out the cusps left by the printer. This post processing can negatively affect the form of the final part.

Note that <u>''a proper mechanical fit between components demands a good tolerance on form, feature position, and surface finish'',</u> such that it is typically impossible to obtain a proper fit when 3D printing, and that if you are considering the 3D printing of critically interfacing components, 3D printing should not be used unless post processing ''<u>is built into the design</u>''. For mechanical designs, you will notice that a main application is brackets. This is because brackets only need good positional tolerance on holes and mating faces, which 3D printing can almost always provide (the tolerance on form for holes is not that important since they are typically clearance holes). However, since some brackets are easily laser cut, 3D printing brackets is only done under certain specific conditions. It certainly has shown its commercial use in cost cutting by replacing intricate multi-part assemblies by ''generatively designed'' (we'll say computer generated for now) parts, as shown in the picture below.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/CAD Extensions|CAD Extensions]]==
The following are extensions for common polygonal and NURBS formats.

===Polygonal Formats===

*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format) Standard Triangle Language (*.STL)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wavefront_.obj_file Wavefront OBJ (*.OBJ)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3D_Manufacturing_Format 3D Manufacturing Format (*.3MF)]

===NURBS Formats===

====Standard====

*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10303 ISO10303 - Standard for the Exchange of Product model data (*.STP, *.STEP)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AutoCAD_DXF AutoCAD Drawing Exchange Format (*.DXF/*.DWG)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IGES Initial Graphics Exchange Specification (*.IGES)] (standard last updated 1996)

====Software-Specific====

*DS Solidworks Parts (*.SLDPRT)
*DS Solidworks Assemblies (*.SLDASM)
*DS CATIA V5 Parts (*.CGR/*.CATPart)
*DS CATIA V5 Assemblies (*.CGR/*.CATProduct)
*PTC Creo Parts (*.PRT)
*PTC Creo Assemblies (*.ASM)

*Fusion 360 (*.F3D)

It should be noted that Fusion360 stores files on the cloud, such that locally saved .f3d files are not commonly encountered. It should also be noted that OnShape does not have a file format given it is hosted entirely on the cloud.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/Using Parametric NURBS Software|Using Parametric NURBS Software]]==
<br />

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate

2022-07-20T21:44:30Z

Strem078: /* TinkerCAD (contd.) */

TinkerCAD is nice for smaller parts with very little complexity. However, since it is not [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-uniform_rational_B-spline NURBS] based nor parametric, it lacks major functionality. It is strongly suggested at this stage that TinkerCAD, Blender, Cinema 4D or other [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polygonal_modeling polygonal modelling] (non-NURBS) applications be set aside for parametric CAD software, such as [https://www.autodesk.ca/en/products/fusion-360 Autodesk Fusion 360] ([https://www.autodesk.ca/en/products/fusion-360/students-teachers-educators free for students. teachers, and educators]), [https://www.solidworks.com/ Dassault Systèmes Solidworks] (available through Remote Apps) or [https://www.onshape.com/en/ PTC OnShape] (completely online, free for students and educators) be used for mechanical design, as models made with such software contain much richer data that allows going from CAD models to manufacturing data. Polygonal modelling remains, however, an important tool for Scan to CAD, and such the intermediate CAD user should have a complete understanding of polygonal modelling software such as TinkerCAD.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/TinkerCAD (contd.)|TinkerCAD (contd.)]]==

== Design for 3D Printing ==
If your design is to be used in (electro-)mechanical assemblies in which there are interfacing components, it is important that you understand three basic tolerancing concepts and to keep them in the back of your mind when modeling or more generally designing these assemblies.

# Form: The form of a part refers to the overall dimensions and the shape of the exterior surfaces of a component. Think of a flaw referring to form as a print that ended up not matching the base geometry that was used to create it in CAD due to adverse physical variables during the printing process. Examples follow:
## A ''sphere'' may end up slightly ''oval'' once printed due to improper cooling, etc.;
## A pillar might end up tilted to one side due to improper belt tension between the belt axes, etc.;
## A pin feature might end up too large to fit its mating hole due to the printer outputting too much material when producing the outer walls of the feature (the inverse can also be true).
# Position: Position refers to the distance separating a feature and an (ideally) meaningful reference (i.e.: the distance between a hole and the side of a part, or between two holes). Thankfully, flaws pertaining to position are rare on a properly tuned printer, as the printer does not have any information about existing references other than the build plate. If tuned properly, the printer will always print a feature at a position (X,Y,Z) distance relative to another feature, because that is what the gCode will tell it to do. You can imagine, however, that if the part is warped, the 'build plate reference' is no longer valid, and such, warped parts almost always have features out of position ''unless the meaningful reference (interfacing feature) used in the design is not the build plate''. However, since the build plate reference is such an important one to define the Z position of features (for the printer, that is), making your meaningful reference something other than the build plate does not always guarantee you good positional tolerance independent of warping.
# Surface: The surface finish of a part is a rather complex subject. In 3D printing, and for typical applications of 3D printed parts, it mostly refers to the mean (statistical) difference between the height of cusps and valleys on a part and their deviation from that mean, at a macroscopic level. The most important consideration is that when 3D printing, most surface finishes are quite rough (deviate significantly from the mean), and thus are sanded down considerably to knock out the cusps left by the printer. This post processing can negatively affect the form of the final part.

Note that ''a proper mechanical fit between components demands a good tolerance on form, feature position, and surface finish'', such that it is typically impossible to obtain a proper fit when 3D printing, and that if you are considering the 3D printing of critically interfacing components, 3D printing should not be used unless post processing ''is built into the design''. For mechanical designs, you will notice that a main application is brackets. This is because brackets only need good positional tolerance on holes and mating faces, which 3D printing can almost always provide (the tolerance on form for holes is not that important since they are typically clearance holes). However, since some brackets are easily laser cut, 3D printing brackets is only done under certain specific conditions. It certainly has shown its commercial use in cost cutting by replacing intricate multi-part assemblies by ''generatively designed'' (we'll say computer generated for now) parts, as shown in the picture below.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/CAD Extensions|CAD Extensions]]==
The following are extensions for common polygonal and NURBS formats.

===Polygonal Formats===

*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format) Standard Triangle Language (*.STL)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wavefront_.obj_file Wavefront OBJ (*.OBJ)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3D_Manufacturing_Format 3D Manufacturing Format (*.3MF)]

===NURBS Formats===

====Standard====

*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10303 ISO10303 - Standard for the Exchange of Product model data (*.STP, *.STEP)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AutoCAD_DXF AutoCAD Drawing Exchange Format (*.DXF/*.DWG)]
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IGES Initial Graphics Exchange Specification (*.IGES)] (standard last updated 1996)

====Software-Specific====

*DS Solidworks Parts (*.SLDPRT)
*DS Solidworks Assemblies (*.SLDASM)
*DS CATIA V5 Parts (*.CGR/*.CATPart)
*DS CATIA V5 Assemblies (*.CGR/*.CATProduct)
*PTC Creo Parts (*.PRT)
*PTC Creo Assemblies (*.ASM)

*Fusion 360 (*.F3D)

It should be noted that Fusion360 stores files on the cloud, such that locally saved .f3d files are not commonly encountered. It should also be noted that OnShape does not have a file format given it is hosted entirely on the cloud.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate/Using Parametric NURBS Software|Using Parametric NURBS Software]]==
<br />

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2022-06-23T00:22:05Z

Strem078: /* = Print Speed */

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|center|frame|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>]]

=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1500x1500px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_2%2B
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Ultimaker_3
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/MakerBot_Replicator_2
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Dremel_3D20
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Raise3D_N2_Plus
}}

{{PrinterInfobox
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Markforged_Mark_Two
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2%2B. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a stereolithography file format (an old cad software). STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===

====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate

2022-06-23T00:13:55Z

Strem078: /* Selecting Nozzle Sizes */

This page will focus on intermediate 3D printing skills. You should be familiar with [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner|3D Printing- Beginner]] before continuing.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Types of printers|Types of printers]]==

===Printers===
{{#lsth:Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner|Which 3D printers do we have?}}
Each brand of printer will have a different slicer and way of starting the prints which is explained in the following sections.<br />

===Slicers===
MakerBot Replicator = MakerBot Desktop (this software is no longer being updated but you will need it to use the MakerBot 2 since it's a discontinued printer)

#Open MakerBot desktop
#Click add a file
#Select the right printer. We Replicator 2 printers. To do this click on “device” on the top menu. Then “select type of device” which can either be one of the two previously mentioned printers.
#Send your file to the device. There are two ways of doing this, either using an SD card or a usb cable.
##SD Card: Click “Export Print File” Replicators only work with '''2GB''' SD cards (or smaller), if you try to use anything bigger you will get an “SD card read error”.
##USB Cable: Connect your printer to your computer using a usb cause. You should see the printer at the bottom of the MakerBot Desktop screen. Click Print. Once you have clicked print, you unfortunately cannot unplug the computer.

Dremel = Dremel Idea Builder

#Load your .stl file by clicking the load button on the menu on the left hand side. You can modify your object (scale, move, or rotate) using the buttons on the left hand side
#Click build.
#Select your settings and your method of printing. Either using an SD card or a USB cable.
##SD card: You are saving the machine to an SD card and moving the SD card to the printer
##USB cable: You are using a USB wire to transfer the fire to the printer. What is nice with the Dremels is the file is downloaded to the machine. Therefore you can unplug the wire when the file has transferred.

===Start the print===
Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card or connect your computer to the printer and click print or build.

'''Dremel'''

If you are using a USB cord, the print with start automatically when you hit build in on your computer. Follow the following step if you are using the SD card.

#Place your SD card in the SD card slot in the 3D printing. This is found on the right hand side near the front of the printer.
#If the 3D printer is not already on, turn on the printer using the on/off switch located at the right hand side near the back of the printer.
#Using the front screen, press build ->The picture of an SD card ->select your file -> Build.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Custom Slicer Settings|Custom Slicer Settings as an Intermediate User]]==
This section is under construction. If you want more information on the print settings available in Cura, check out [https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/sections/360003548619-Print-settings the Cura documentation on Ultimaker's website].

This section covers how to modify parameters as well as which parameters are tunable and why they may be important.

=== How to Modify Parameters ===

=== Tunable Parameters ===
The following parameters can be tuned using the previously stated method.

==== Print Speed ====
The ways in which the print speed will affect the final print are not always obvious. If the print speed is too high, the printer might not be able to dispense enough material through its nozzle per unit of time to fill the desired volume with the required amount of material. This can lead to bad adhesion between layers or even a complete lack of adhesion to layers. The ratio of layer height to layer speed (i.e.: material outflow through the nozzle) should therefore always be considered when FDM printing (the exact subject though being more of an intermediate subject). When making parts that will bear loads, print speeds are increasingly important as layer adhesion becomes an important factor in the strength of the final part, so much so that parts may be annealed (uniformly re-heated through a controlled process) to obtain better properties across layers.<ref>Agnieszka Szust, Grzegorz Adamski, ''Using thermal annealing and salt remelting to increase tensile properties of 3D FDM prints'', Engineering Failure Analysis, Volume 132, 2022, 105932, ISSN 1350-6307, <nowiki>https://doi.org/10.1016/j.engfailanal.2021.105932</nowiki>.</ref>
==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Dual Extrusion|Dual extrusion]]==
<br />
==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Print Orientation|Print Orientation]]==
<br />

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Post-Processing 3D prints|Post-Processing 3D prints]]==
<br />

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Bed Levelling, Filament Change|Bed Levelling, Filament Change]]==

=== Bed Levelling ===
If the printer is not printing properly (especially if the issue is noticeable on the very first layers of the print, where a difference in the ), the build plate level may need to be adjusted. For minor adjustments, this can be done by using the three knobs (thumb screws) on the underside of the plate. For more major adjustments (>1mm), the build plate should be leveled through the printer’s onboard software by going to ''Maintenance→Build Plate'', and following the onscreen instructions. If unsure, always use the latter method.

=== Filament Change ===
To change the filament on an Ultimaker 2+ printer, go to ''Material→Change'' in the printer’s user interface and follow the onscreen instructions. If ever the filament has almost run out, or if you desire to change the colour of a print midway, you may navigate to ''Pause→Change Material'' and following the onscreen instructions. If changing mid way, it is recommended that the older filament be completely purged from the nozzle using the new filament. Otherwise, the result will not be good.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate/Selecting Nozzle Sizes|Selecting Nozzle Sizes]]==

== References ==
<references />