CEED Wiki - User contributions [en]

Digital technologies/Vacuum Forming

2024-08-28T16:05:29Z

Mikael: /* Trapping */

[[File:Formech 450DT.jpg|thumb|442x442px|Formech 450DT]]
Vacuum forming is a manufacturing method used to shape a heated sheet of plastic around a certain mold using the force of a vacuum. It's great advantage is fast production of parts with minimal post processing. There are different methods to vacuum forming. The mold, also called the tool, can be either male or female. Male tools are used if precision is needed on the inside of the part. Female tools, often used with plugs, are used for precision on the outside of the part. Most industrial molds are machined from metal blocks, such aluminum. Although, the use of machined molds can get expensive as they are hard to make and can have a long lead time. If the tool needs replacing or modification, it can create a lot of down time. This is where 3D printed molds come in handy. They are not as durable as machined molds, but are ideal for fast prototyping. The complication with 3D printed molds is that filament is also a thermoplastic, which melts under heat. So how do you keep the integrity of your mold when in comes into contact with a very hot plastic sheet? This is what we will be covering in this document as to how to prepare your molds to perform as best as possible in the vacuum forming process.

== 3D Modeling your Mold ==
To succeed at vacuum forming it starts way before using the machine. A good mold is the foundation of a good part, with as little complications along the way.

=== Draft Angles ===
When vacuum forming your part, you want to avoid your mold getting stuck into it. To avoid this issue, we implement draft angles to all sides of the 3D model to ease the release of the mold. The recommended angle is 5° to 7° for male molds and 2° to 3° for female molds.
[[File:Draft Angles.png|center|thumb|400x400px|Note the difference between draft angles and the importance of choosing the right orientation]]

=== Undercuts ===
Similarly to the reason we apply draft angles, we avoid undercuts to prevent the risk of our mold getting stuck. A good way to avoid them is to ask yourself if your 3D part needs supports. If it does, then chances are that your mold will get stuck in your vacuum formed part.
[[File:Undercuts.png|center|thumb|577x577px|Comparison between annon-removable undercut (left) and a removable undercut (right)]]

=== Possible Depths ===
A plastic sheet only has a certain amount of material available to form a mold. There is a limit to the amount a material is capable to draw. There are formulas and guidelines available to determine that limit. When it comes to cavities, the maximum depth should not exceed 75% of the opening.
[[File:Depth.png|center|thumb|456x456px|Demonstration of reachable depths]]

=== Draw Ratio ===
Similarly as cavities, there is a maximum height you can have with your mold for a given sheet thickness. If you want your wall thickness of your final part to be a certain thickness, then you will use the draw ratio to find out which sheet thickness is best suited for your project. Here are the steps to calculate the draw ratio:

- Step 1: Calculate the surface area.

Using a CAD modeling software, you can easily get the surface area of your mold. If you do not have the exact number, you can approximate it by taking general measurements and assuming it as a simple geometry.

-Step 2: Calculate the footprint.

The footprint is the heated area of the plastic sheet and can be easily found if you know the dimensions of your machine.

-Step 3: Calculate the draw ratio.

To find the draw ratio, divide the surface area by the footprint.

Whichever number you end up with, you can multiply it by the desired wall thickness to find the starting gauge of your plastic sheet.

=== Edges / Fillets ===
Whenever you create a part for vacuum forming, you want to avoid sharp edges or sharp angles as much as possible. The thicker your plastic is, the less capable it will be to take the shape of those sharp corners. The thinner the material is, the more susceptible it is to overstretching.
[[File:Edges Fillets (1).png|alt=|center|thumb|360x360px|Example of smoothing out corners for easier part forming]]

=== Air Holes ===
For the plastic sheet to be able to take the shape of your mold, air needs to be able to escape from between them. To help achieve so, we implement air holes at strategically placed locations. In general, these locations imply any area that is lower than it's surrounding such as cavities, where an air pocket can easily be formed. Air holes should be spaced at least 25mm apart and their diameter should be around 1mm for sheets up to 2mm in thickness and 1.5mm diameter for materials above 2mm in thickness. Materials under 1mm in thickness may require 0.75mm holes, such as polypropylene that will tend to seek out any holes or gaps in tooling.
[[File:Capture-d’écran-2022-06-21-à-14.48.52.png|center|thumb|[https://www.formech.com/blog/formech-technical-newsletter-tooling-materials-3-2 Air hole positioning for vacuum forming]]]

It is ok to add air holes directly in your 3D model but it will increase print time unnecessarily. It is recommended instead to drill the holes manually with the correct drill bit size and protective gear. You can visit the [https://www.vaquform.com/blogs/news/how-to-3d-print-molds-for-vacuum-forming VAQUFORM] page where they talk more in depth about air holes.

== Printer Settings ==
Once your 3D model of your mold is complete, it is time to print it. This is the part where slicer settings and filament selection will help the most towards the durability of your mold. Visit the [https://www.vaquform.com/blogs/news/how-to-3d-print-molds-for-vacuum-forming VAQUFORM] page for a detailed explanation on how to make your prints.

== Health and Safety with Vacuum Forming ==
Vacuum forming is a generally safe machine that takes little effort to manufacture parts with great quality. Although, there still are safety aspects to take into consideration. When you encounter a problem with the machine, it is important to alert the staff about it and DO NOT attempt to fix it yourself. Reparations and changes to the machine should only be made by qualified personnel.

=== Burns ===
Evidently, the vacuum form machine uses heat reaching up to 300°C to soften the plastic. Consequently, some parts of the machine can get very very hot. It is important to know which those are and keep body parts clear of these area. The plastic part will also be very hot after forming. You should let it cool down before attempting to handle it. If you must handle the part immediately after forming, wear the proper PPE such as heat protective gloves. To test to see if the part is still hot, approach it gently with the back of your hand. If you can feel the heat without touching it, it is probably too hot to handle. If you cannot feel any heat from a distance, try and get closer until you can touch it rapidly without feeling excessive heat. From there it should be safe to touch the part without getting burned instantly and gauge if you can handle it or not.

=== Toxic Fumes ===
It is important to keep in mind that melting a plastic emits toxic fumes. Although a vacuum form machine doesn't completely melt plastics, it does bring it past it's glass transition temperature, where polymer chains are allowed to move some encounter thermal decomposition. "During thermal decomposition, polymers breakdown into hazardous plastic fumes, fatty acids, and the original manufacturing compounds."<ref>[https://www.sentryair.com/plastic-fumes.htm#:~:text=During%20thermal%20decomposition%2C%20polymers%20breakdown,fires%20in%20a%20burning%20building. Plastic Fumes - Sentry Air Systems]</ref> Material choice is important not only for your project, but also the safety of the people working int the same space. Have your material approved by staff before using it. '''Do not leave heaters unattended and do not overheat plastic sheets!''' Doing so will increase the risk of releasing toxic fume.

=== Pinching ===
There is a risk of pinching when operating the vacuum form machine. Use caution when using the clamp frame to ensure fingers or hands will not get trapped. This is a single person operating machine. Use caution when someone else is around. The heaters also operate on rollers and track. You should not be putting your hands onto the track as it creates another risk of pinching.

== References ==

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-28T14:57:37Z

Mikael: /* Setting Up Your File */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
'''**You also have to turn off the Epilog laser before uninstalling the rotary engraving attachment tool.'''[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Rasterizing Settings ===
You should base yourself off the recommended settings from your laser according to the user manual for specific materials. You can use higher or lower power to adjust the depth of the engraving or do multiple passes. While it is possible to cut with the rotary engraving attachment it is not as simple. You will have to find the perfect settings for your material to avoid the laser going through the top and burn the bottom side of the part while still cutting through. When the unfocused laser hits the bottom section, large flames can occur which can burn your material. In case of flames, lift the top glass which will stop the Epilog laser.

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation and size. The laser is not going to fit your design automatically to the part. Per example a 20cm heigh design on a 10cm circumference part will engrave it twice over.

Your design will be facing the same way on the machine as it is on your screen. Since your part is setup sideways, the height of your part becomes the width of your design and the width of your part (circumference) becomes the height of your design. For a 360° engraving job, you will have to measure the circumference of your part and set as the height of your file. The home point is still the top left corner of your file. This is something to consider when setting up the home point on the laser, as it will go from left to right unless you modify settings.
[[File:File Positioning (1).png|alt=|center|thumb|814x814px|Design orientation to properly position on the part]]

=== External Tutorial Reference ===
You can watch this very instructive [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36kdUQXmaA0 video] by [https://www.epiloglaser.com/en-ca/ Epilog] for a visual demonstration on how to set-up and engrave with the rotary attachment.

Epilog also offers a detailed [https://www.epiloglaser.com/downloads/pdf/fusion_rotary_attachment.pdf pdf instruction manual] if you have unanswered questions.

Don't hesitate to ask question to our Makerspace staff!

File:File Positioning (1).png

2024-08-28T14:57:04Z

Mikael:

Design orientation to properly fit the part for rotary laser engraving

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-28T14:47:28Z

Mikael: /* Setting Up Your File */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
'''**You also have to turn off the Epilog laser before uninstalling the rotary engraving attachment tool.'''[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Rasterizing Settings ===
You should base yourself off the recommended settings from your laser according to the user manual for specific materials. You can use higher or lower power to adjust the depth of the engraving or do multiple passes. While it is possible to cut with the rotary engraving attachment it is not as simple. You will have to find the perfect settings for your material to avoid the laser going through the top and burn the bottom side of the part while still cutting through. When the unfocused laser hits the bottom section, large flames can occur which can burn your material. In case of flames, lift the top glass which will stop the Epilog laser.

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. Your design will be facing the same way on the machine as it is on your screen. Since your part is setup sideways, the height of your part becomes the width of your design and the width of your part (circumference) becomes the height of your design. For a 360° engraving job, you will have to measure the circumference of your part and set as the height of your file. The home point is still the top left corner of your file. This is something to consider when setting up the home point on the laser, as it will go from left to right unless you modify settings.

[[File:File Positioning.png|center|thumb|814x814px|Design orientation to properly position on the part]]

=== External Tutorial Reference ===
You can watch this very instructive [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36kdUQXmaA0 video] by [https://www.epiloglaser.com/en-ca/ Epilog] for a visual demonstration on how to set-up and engrave with the rotary attachment.

Epilog also offers a detailed [https://www.epiloglaser.com/downloads/pdf/fusion_rotary_attachment.pdf pdf instruction manual] if you have unanswered questions.

Don't hesitate to ask question to our Makerspace staff!

File:File Positioning.png

2024-08-28T14:37:44Z

Mikael:

Orientation of design to properly fit the part on the laser engraver.

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-08T16:09:15Z

Mikael: /* Rasterizing Settings */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
'''**You also have to turn off the Epilog laser before uninstalling the rotary engraving attachment tool.'''[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Rasterizing Settings ===
You should base yourself off the recommended settings from your laser according to the user manual for specific materials. You can use higher or lower power to adjust the depth of the engraving or do multiple passes. While it is possible to cut with the rotary engraving attachment it is not as simple. You will have to find the perfect settings for your material to avoid the laser going through the top and burn the bottom side of the part while still cutting through. When the unfocused laser hits the bottom section, large flames can occur which can burn your material. In case of flames, lift the top glass which will stop the Epilog laser.

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way on the machine as it is on your screen. For a 360° engraving job, you will have to measure the circumference of your part and set as the height of your file. The width can we however much you want it to be as long as it fits on the part.

=== External Tutorial Reference ===
You can watch this very instructive [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36kdUQXmaA0 video] by [https://www.epiloglaser.com/en-ca/ Epilog] for a visual demonstration on how to set-up and engrave with the rotary attachment.

Epilog also offers a detailed [https://www.epiloglaser.com/downloads/pdf/fusion_rotary_attachment.pdf pdf instruction manual] if you have unanswered questions.

Don't hesitate to ask question to our Makerspace staff!

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-08T16:02:09Z

Mikael: /* Focusing */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
'''**You also have to turn off the Epilog laser before uninstalling the rotary engraving attachment tool.'''[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Rasterizing Settings ===
You should base yourself off the recommended settings from your laser according to the user manual for specific materials. You can use higher 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way on the machine as it is on your screen. For a 360° engraving job, you will have to measure the circumference of your part and set as the height of your file. The width can we however much you want it to be as long as it fits on the part.

=== External Tutorial Reference ===
You can watch this very instructive [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36kdUQXmaA0 video] by [https://www.epiloglaser.com/en-ca/ Epilog] for a visual demonstration on how to set-up and engrave with the rotary attachment.

Epilog also offers a detailed [https://www.epiloglaser.com/downloads/pdf/fusion_rotary_attachment.pdf pdf instruction manual] if you have unanswered questions.

Don't hesitate to ask question to our Makerspace staff!

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-08T16:02:03Z

Mikael: /* Focusing */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
'''**You also have to turn off the Epilog laser before uninstalling the rotary engraving attachment tool.'''[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Rasterizing Settings ===
You should base yourself off the recommended settings from your laser according to the user manual for specific materials. You can use higher 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way on the machine as it is on your screen. For a 360° engraving job, you will have to measure the circumference of your part and set as the height of your file. The width can we however much you want it to be as long as it fits on the part.

=== External Tutorial Reference ===
You can watch this very instructive [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36kdUQXmaA0 video] by [https://www.epiloglaser.com/en-ca/ Epilog] for a visual demonstration on how to set-up and engrave with the rotary attachment.

Epilog also offers a detailed [https://www.epiloglaser.com/downloads/pdf/fusion_rotary_attachment.pdf pdf instruction manual] if you have unanswered questions.

Don't hesitate to ask question to our Makerspace staff!

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-08T16:01:58Z

Mikael: /* Focusing */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
'''**You also have to turn off the Epilog laser before uninstalling the rotary engraving attachment tool.'''[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Rasterizing Settings ===
You should base yourself off the recommended settings from your laser according to the user manual for specific materials. You can use higher 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way on the machine as it is on your screen. For a 360° engraving job, you will have to measure the circumference of your part and set as the height of your file. The width can we however much you want it to be as long as it fits on the part.

=== External Tutorial Reference ===
You can watch this very instructive [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36kdUQXmaA0 video] by [https://www.epiloglaser.com/en-ca/ Epilog] for a visual demonstration on how to set-up and engrave with the rotary attachment.

Epilog also offers a detailed [https://www.epiloglaser.com/downloads/pdf/fusion_rotary_attachment.pdf pdf instruction manual] if you have unanswered questions.

Don't hesitate to ask question to our Makerspace staff!

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-08T16:01:51Z

Mikael: /* Focusing */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
'''**You also have to turn off the Epilog laser before uninstalling the rotary engraving attachment tool.'''[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Rasterizing Settings ===
You should base yourself off the recommended settings from your laser according to the user manual for specific materials. You can use higher 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way on the machine as it is on your screen. For a 360° engraving job, you will have to measure the circumference of your part and set as the height of your file. The width can we however much you want it to be as long as it fits on the part.

=== External Tutorial Reference ===
You can watch this very instructive [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36kdUQXmaA0 video] by [https://www.epiloglaser.com/en-ca/ Epilog] for a visual demonstration on how to set-up and engrave with the rotary attachment.

Epilog also offers a detailed [https://www.epiloglaser.com/downloads/pdf/fusion_rotary_attachment.pdf pdf instruction manual] if you have unanswered questions.

Don't hesitate to ask question to our Makerspace staff!

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-08T16:01:23Z

Mikael: /* Focusing */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
'''**You also have to turn off the Epilog laser before uninstalling the rotary engraving attachment tool.'''[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Rasterizing Settings ===
You should base yourself off the recommended settings from your laser according to the user manual for specific materials. You can use higher 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way on the machine as it is on your screen. For a 360° engraving job, you will have to measure the circumference of your part and set as the height of your file. The width can we however much you want it to be as long as it fits on the part.

=== External Tutorial Reference ===
You can watch this very instructive [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36kdUQXmaA0 video] by [https://www.epiloglaser.com/en-ca/ Epilog] for a visual demonstration on how to set-up and engrave with the rotary attachment.

Epilog also offers a detailed [https://www.epiloglaser.com/downloads/pdf/fusion_rotary_attachment.pdf pdf instruction manual] if you have unanswered questions.

Don't hesitate to ask question to our Makerspace staff!

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-08T16:00:48Z

Mikael: /* Rasterizing Settings */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
'''**You also have to turn off the Epilog laser before uninstalling the rotary engraving attachment tool.'''[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

=== Rasterizing Settings ===
You should base yourself off the recommended settings from your laser according to the user manual for specific materials. You can use higher 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way on the machine as it is on your screen. For a 360° engraving job, you will have to measure the circumference of your part and set as the height of your file. The width can we however much you want it to be as long as it fits on the part.

=== External Tutorial Reference ===
You can watch this very instructive [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36kdUQXmaA0 video] by [https://www.epiloglaser.com/en-ca/ Epilog] for a visual demonstration on how to set-up and engrave with the rotary attachment.

Epilog also offers a detailed [https://www.epiloglaser.com/downloads/pdf/fusion_rotary_attachment.pdf pdf instruction manual] if you have unanswered questions.

Don't hesitate to ask question to our Makerspace staff!

Digital technologies/Vacuum Forming

2024-08-07T21:14:15Z

Mikael: Formech Image

[[File:Formech 450DT.jpg|thumb|442x442px|Formech 450DT]]
Vacuum forming is a manufacturing method used to shape a heated sheet of plastic around a certain mold using the force of a vacuum. It's great advantage is fast production of parts with minimal post processing. There are different methods to vacuum forming. The mold, also called the tool, can be either male or female. Male tools are used if precision is needed on the inside of the part. Female tools, often used with plugs, are used for precision on the outside of the part. Most industrial molds are machined from metal blocks, such aluminum. Although, the use of machined molds can get expensive as they are hard to make and can have a long lead time. If the tool needs replacing or modification, it can create a lot of down time. This is where 3D printed molds come in handy. They are not as durable as machined molds, but are ideal for fast prototyping. The complication with 3D printed molds is that filament is also a thermoplastic, which melts under heat. So how do you keep the integrity of your mold when in comes into contact with a very hot plastic sheet? This is what we will be covering in this document as to how to prepare your molds to perform as best as possible in the vacuum forming process.

== 3D Modeling your Mold ==
To succeed at vacuum forming it starts way before using the machine. A good mold is the foundation of a good part, with as little complications along the way.

=== Draft Angles ===
When vacuum forming your part, you want to avoid your mold getting stuck into it. To avoid this issue, we implement draft angles to all sides of the 3D model to ease the release of the mold. The recommended angle is 5° to 7° for male molds and 2° to 3° for female molds.
[[File:Draft Angles.png|center|thumb|400x400px|Note the difference between draft angles and the importance of choosing the right orientation]]

=== Undercuts ===
Similarly to the reason we apply draft angles, we avoid undercuts to prevent the risk of our mold getting stuck. A good way to avoid them is to ask yourself if your 3D part needs supports. If it does, then chances are that your mold will get stuck in your vacuum formed part.
[[File:Undercuts.png|center|thumb|577x577px|Comparison between annon-removable undercut (left) and a removable undercut (right)]]

=== Possible Depths ===
A plastic sheet only has a certain amount of material available to form a mold. There is a limit to the amount a material is capable to draw. There are formulas and guidelines available to determine that limit. When it comes to cavities, the maximum depth should not exceed 75% of the opening.
[[File:Depth.png|center|thumb|456x456px|Demonstration of reachable depths]]

=== Draw Ratio ===
Similarly as cavities, there is a maximum height you can have with your mold for a given sheet thickness. If you want your wall thickness of your final part to be a certain thickness, then you will use the draw ratio to find out which sheet thickness is best suited for your project. Here are the steps to calculate the draw ratio:

- Step 1: Calculate the surface area.

Using a CAD modeling software, you can easily get the surface area of your mold. If you do not have the exact number, you can approximate it by taking general measurements and assuming it as a simple geometry.

-Step 2: Calculate the footprint.

The footprint is the heated area of the plastic sheet and can be easily found if you know the dimensions of your machine.

-Step 3: Calculate the draw ratio.

To find the draw ratio, divide the surface area by the footprint.

Whichever number you end up with, you can multiply it by the desired wall thickness to find the starting gauge of your plastic sheet.

=== Edges / Fillets ===
Whenever you create a part for vacuum forming, you want to avoid sharp edges or sharp angles as much as possible. The thicker your plastic is, the less capable it will be to take the shape of those sharp corners. The thinner the material is, the more susceptible it is to overstretching.
[[File:Edges Fillets (1).png|alt=|center|thumb|360x360px|Example of smoothing out corners for easier part forming]]

=== Air Holes ===
For the plastic sheet to be able to take the shape of your mold, air needs to be able to escape from between them. To help achieve so, we implement air holes at strategically placed locations. In general, these locations imply any area that is lower than it's surrounding such as cavities, where an air pocket can easily be formed. Air holes should be spaced at least 25mm apart and their diameter should be around 1mm for sheets up to 2mm in thickness and 1.5mm diameter for materials above 2mm in thickness. Materials under 1mm in thickness may require 0.75mm holes, such as polypropylene that will tend to seek out any holes or gaps in tooling.
[[File:Capture-d’écran-2022-06-21-à-14.48.52.png|center|thumb|[https://www.formech.com/blog/formech-technical-newsletter-tooling-materials-3-2 Air hole positioning for vacuum forming]]]

It is ok to add air holes directly in your 3D model but it will increase print time unnecessarily. It is recommended instead to drill the holes manually with the correct drill bit size and protective gear. You can visit the [https://www.vaquform.com/blogs/news/how-to-3d-print-molds-for-vacuum-forming VAQUFORM] page where they talk more in depth about air holes.

== Printer Settings ==
Once your 3D model of your mold is complete, it is time to print it. This is the part where slicer settings and filament selection will help the most towards the durability of your mold. Visit the [https://www.vaquform.com/blogs/news/how-to-3d-print-molds-for-vacuum-forming VAQUFORM] page for a detailed explanation on how to make your prints.

== Health and Safety with Vacuum Forming ==
Vacuum forming is a generally safe machine that takes little effort to manufacture parts with great quality. Although, there still are safety aspects to take into consideration. When you encounter a problem with the machine, it is important to alert the staff about it and DO NOT attempt to fix it yourself. Reparations and changes to the machine should only be made by qualified personnel.

=== Burns ===
Evidently, the vacuum form machine uses heat reaching up to 300°C to soften the plastic. Consequently, some parts of the machine can get very very hot. It is important to know which those are and keep body parts clear of these area. The plastic part will also be very hot after forming. You should let it cool down before attempting to handle it. If you must handle the part immediately after forming, wear the proper PPE such as heat protective gloves. To test to see if the part is still hot, approach it gently with the back of your hand. If you can feel the heat without touching it, it is probably too hot to handle. If you cannot feel any heat from a distance, try and get closer until you can touch it rapidly without feeling excessive heat. From there it should be safe to touch the part without getting burned instantly and gauge if you can handle it or not.

=== Toxic Fumes ===
It is important to keep in mind that melting a plastic emits toxic fumes. Although a vacuum form machine doesn't completely melt plastics, it does bring it past it's glass transition temperature, where polymer chains are allowed to move some encounter thermal decomposition. "During thermal decomposition, polymers breakdown into hazardous plastic fumes, fatty acids, and the original manufacturing compounds."<ref>[https://www.sentryair.com/plastic-fumes.htm#:~:text=During%20thermal%20decomposition%2C%20polymers%20breakdown,fires%20in%20a%20burning%20building. Plastic Fumes - Sentry Air Systems]</ref> Material choice is important not only for your project, but also the safety of the people working int the same space. Have your material approved by staff before using it. '''Do not leave heaters unattended and do not overheat plastic sheets!''' Doing so will increase the risk of releasing toxic fume.

=== Trapping ===
There is a risk of trapping when operating the vacuum form machine. Use caution when using the clamp frame to ensure fingers or hands will not get trapped. This is a single person operating machine. Use caution when someone else is around.

== References ==

Digital technologies/Vacuum Forming

2024-08-07T21:13:55Z

Mikael: Formech Image

[[File:Formech 450DT.jpg|thumb|260x260px|Formech 450DT]]
Vacuum forming is a manufacturing method used to shape a heated sheet of plastic around a certain mold using the force of a vacuum. It's great advantage is fast production of parts with minimal post processing. There are different methods to vacuum forming. The mold, also called the tool, can be either male or female. Male tools are used if precision is needed on the inside of the part. Female tools, often used with plugs, are used for precision on the outside of the part. Most industrial molds are machined from metal blocks, such aluminum. Although, the use of machined molds can get expensive as they are hard to make and can have a long lead time. If the tool needs replacing or modification, it can create a lot of down time. This is where 3D printed molds come in handy. They are not as durable as machined molds, but are ideal for fast prototyping. The complication with 3D printed molds is that filament is also a thermoplastic, which melts under heat. So how do you keep the integrity of your mold when in comes into contact with a very hot plastic sheet? This is what we will be covering in this document as to how to prepare your molds to perform as best as possible in the vacuum forming process.

== 3D Modeling your Mold ==
To succeed at vacuum forming it starts way before using the machine. A good mold is the foundation of a good part, with as little complications along the way.

=== Draft Angles ===
When vacuum forming your part, you want to avoid your mold getting stuck into it. To avoid this issue, we implement draft angles to all sides of the 3D model to ease the release of the mold. The recommended angle is 5° to 7° for male molds and 2° to 3° for female molds.
[[File:Draft Angles.png|center|thumb|400x400px|Note the difference between draft angles and the importance of choosing the right orientation]]

=== Undercuts ===
Similarly to the reason we apply draft angles, we avoid undercuts to prevent the risk of our mold getting stuck. A good way to avoid them is to ask yourself if your 3D part needs supports. If it does, then chances are that your mold will get stuck in your vacuum formed part.
[[File:Undercuts.png|center|thumb|577x577px|Comparison between annon-removable undercut (left) and a removable undercut (right)]]

=== Possible Depths ===
A plastic sheet only has a certain amount of material available to form a mold. There is a limit to the amount a material is capable to draw. There are formulas and guidelines available to determine that limit. When it comes to cavities, the maximum depth should not exceed 75% of the opening.
[[File:Depth.png|center|thumb|456x456px|Demonstration of reachable depths]]

=== Draw Ratio ===
Similarly as cavities, there is a maximum height you can have with your mold for a given sheet thickness. If you want your wall thickness of your final part to be a certain thickness, then you will use the draw ratio to find out which sheet thickness is best suited for your project. Here are the steps to calculate the draw ratio:

- Step 1: Calculate the surface area.

Using a CAD modeling software, you can easily get the surface area of your mold. If you do not have the exact number, you can approximate it by taking general measurements and assuming it as a simple geometry.

-Step 2: Calculate the footprint.

The footprint is the heated area of the plastic sheet and can be easily found if you know the dimensions of your machine.

-Step 3: Calculate the draw ratio.

To find the draw ratio, divide the surface area by the footprint.

Whichever number you end up with, you can multiply it by the desired wall thickness to find the starting gauge of your plastic sheet.

=== Edges / Fillets ===
Whenever you create a part for vacuum forming, you want to avoid sharp edges or sharp angles as much as possible. The thicker your plastic is, the less capable it will be to take the shape of those sharp corners. The thinner the material is, the more susceptible it is to overstretching.
[[File:Edges Fillets (1).png|alt=|center|thumb|360x360px|Example of smoothing out corners for easier part forming]]

=== Air Holes ===
For the plastic sheet to be able to take the shape of your mold, air needs to be able to escape from between them. To help achieve so, we implement air holes at strategically placed locations. In general, these locations imply any area that is lower than it's surrounding such as cavities, where an air pocket can easily be formed. Air holes should be spaced at least 25mm apart and their diameter should be around 1mm for sheets up to 2mm in thickness and 1.5mm diameter for materials above 2mm in thickness. Materials under 1mm in thickness may require 0.75mm holes, such as polypropylene that will tend to seek out any holes or gaps in tooling.
[[File:Capture-d’écran-2022-06-21-à-14.48.52.png|center|thumb|[https://www.formech.com/blog/formech-technical-newsletter-tooling-materials-3-2 Air hole positioning for vacuum forming]]]

It is ok to add air holes directly in your 3D model but it will increase print time unnecessarily. It is recommended instead to drill the holes manually with the correct drill bit size and protective gear. You can visit the [https://www.vaquform.com/blogs/news/how-to-3d-print-molds-for-vacuum-forming VAQUFORM] page where they talk more in depth about air holes.

== Printer Settings ==
Once your 3D model of your mold is complete, it is time to print it. This is the part where slicer settings and filament selection will help the most towards the durability of your mold. Visit the [https://www.vaquform.com/blogs/news/how-to-3d-print-molds-for-vacuum-forming VAQUFORM] page for a detailed explanation on how to make your prints.

== Health and Safety with Vacuum Forming ==
Vacuum forming is a generally safe machine that takes little effort to manufacture parts with great quality. Although, there still are safety aspects to take into consideration. When you encounter a problem with the machine, it is important to alert the staff about it and DO NOT attempt to fix it yourself. Reparations and changes to the machine should only be made by qualified personnel.

=== Burns ===
Evidently, the vacuum form machine uses heat reaching up to 300°C to soften the plastic. Consequently, some parts of the machine can get very very hot. It is important to know which those are and keep body parts clear of these area. The plastic part will also be very hot after forming. You should let it cool down before attempting to handle it. If you must handle the part immediately after forming, wear the proper PPE such as heat protective gloves. To test to see if the part is still hot, approach it gently with the back of your hand. If you can feel the heat without touching it, it is probably too hot to handle. If you cannot feel any heat from a distance, try and get closer until you can touch it rapidly without feeling excessive heat. From there it should be safe to touch the part without getting burned instantly and gauge if you can handle it or not.

=== Toxic Fumes ===
It is important to keep in mind that melting a plastic emits toxic fumes. Although a vacuum form machine doesn't completely melt plastics, it does bring it past it's glass transition temperature, where polymer chains are allowed to move some encounter thermal decomposition. "During thermal decomposition, polymers breakdown into hazardous plastic fumes, fatty acids, and the original manufacturing compounds."<ref>[https://www.sentryair.com/plastic-fumes.htm#:~:text=During%20thermal%20decomposition%2C%20polymers%20breakdown,fires%20in%20a%20burning%20building. Plastic Fumes - Sentry Air Systems]</ref> Material choice is important not only for your project, but also the safety of the people working int the same space. Have your material approved by staff before using it. '''Do not leave heaters unattended and do not overheat plastic sheets!''' Doing so will increase the risk of releasing toxic fume.

=== Trapping ===
There is a risk of trapping when operating the vacuum form machine. Use caution when using the clamp frame to ensure fingers or hands will not get trapped. This is a single person operating machine. Use caution when someone else is around.

== References ==

File:Formech 450DT.jpg

2024-08-07T21:13:23Z

Mikael:

Vacuum forming machine in the Makerspace

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-07T21:09:46Z

Mikael: External References

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
'''**You also have to turn off the Epilog laser before uninstalling the rotary engraving attachment tool.'''[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

=== Rasterizing Settings ===
You should base yourself off the recommended settings from your laser according to the user manual for specific materials. You can use higher 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way on the machine as it is on your screen. For a 360° engraving job, you will have to measure the circumference of your part and set as the height of your file. The width can we however much you want it to be as long as it fits on the part.

=== External Tutorial Reference ===
You can watch this very instructive [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36kdUQXmaA0 video] by [https://www.epiloglaser.com/en-ca/ Epilog] for a visual demonstration on how to set-up and engrave with the rotary attachment.

Epilog also offers a detailed [https://www.epiloglaser.com/downloads/pdf/fusion_rotary_attachment.pdf pdf instruction manual] if you have unanswered questions.

Don't hesitate to ask question to our Makerspace staff!

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-07T14:31:00Z

Mikael: External Tutorial Reference

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way the machine as it is on your screen.

=== External Tutorial Reference ===
You can watch this very instructive [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36kdUQXmaA0 video] by [https://www.epiloglaser.com/en-ca/ Epilog] for a visual demonstration on how to set-up and engrave with the rotary attachment.

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-02T14:10:13Z

Mikael: /* Focusing */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way the machine as it is on your screen.

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-02T14:10:04Z

Mikael: /* Focusing */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way the machine as it is on your screen.

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-02T14:09:55Z

Mikael: /* Focusing */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way the machine as it is on your screen.

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-02T14:09:44Z

Mikael: /* Setting Home Point */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotates your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving. In this document, we will take you through some steps and procedures to help you successfully complete your rotary engraving project.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.

[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.

[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.

[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper.png|alt=|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way the machine as it is on your screen.

File:Plastic Bumper.png

2024-08-02T14:07:31Z

Mikael:

Plastic bumper on rotary engraving tool

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-02T14:00:13Z

Mikael: /* Focusing */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotate your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.
[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.
[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.
[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper on Rotary Tool.jpg|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way the machine as it is on your screen.

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-02T14:00:06Z

Mikael: /* Focusing */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotate your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.
[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.
[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.
[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper on Rotary Tool.jpg|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way the machine as it is on your screen.

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-02T13:59:37Z

Mikael: /* Focusing */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotate your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.
[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.
[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.
[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper on Rotary Tool.jpg|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

 

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way the machine as it is on your screen.

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-02T13:58:19Z

Mikael: /* Setting Up Your File */

Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotate your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.
[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|770x770px|alt=|frameless]]

=== Setting Up the Part ===
Now that you have your tool ready, the next step is to get the part to fit properly on the tool for good results.

==== Roller Positioning ====
The right hand roller can be repositioned to adapt to the length of your part. You want to choose a position that optimizes a flat top surface, a smooth rolling surface, and good balance.
[[File:Roller Positionning.png|center|thumb|480x480px|Repositioning of the roller using the set screw]]

==== Top Surface Leveling ====
If you have a conic part, you still need to have a flat top surface. To get the perfectly flat top surface, you will have to manually level the bed to the highest point of your part, which should be the left side. Then, while keeping your focusing tool on, you can move the laser to the right hand side and adjust the roller height until the part touches the focusing tool. Go back to the left hand side to make sure your focus didn't change and you should now have a good leveling. You can repeat the steps if you are not satisfied. You can also use a bubble level to check if the top surface has the same level as the gantry.
[[File:Leveling Method.png|center|thumb|479x479px|You can see that the right hand side is a little lower. You can raise it if you would like, but the difference in results for such a small difference will probably not be visible to the naked eye.]]

==== Tubing and Light Parts ====
Lighter parts, such as tubes, tend to slip on the rollers due to lower friction. If possible add weight to your part (i.e. add water to a water bottle). If adding weight is not a option, you can use the attachment for tubing. It will clamp down the part onto the rollers to minimize slippage.
[[File:Tubing Attachment 2.png|center|thumb|746x746px|Put on the accessory for lightweight parts when encountering slippage issues.]]

==== Part Position ====
You want your part to be sitting against the plastic bumper on the left side of the tool. The rollers are made intentionally so that it pushes the part against that small plastic bumper to minimize lateral movement. Additionally, to avoid having the part moving while engraving, you want to do a ''Top-Down'' engraving. If you do a ''Bottom-Up'' engraving the part will move away that plastic bumper and warp your engraving.

[[File:Plastic Bumper on Rotary Tool.jpg|center|thumb]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|353x353px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.
[[File:Focusing.png|left|thumb|557x557px|Focusing tool should not be sitting on the part, only barely touching.]]

=== Setting Up Your File ===
Your file setup will be the same as per usual engraving projects. The only consideration you should keep in mind is the orientation. The top part of your file will be facing the same way the machine as it is on your screen.

File:Plastic Bumper on Rotary Tool.jpg

2024-08-02T13:57:23Z

Mikael:

The plastic bumper is made for the part to lean against for minimal lateral movement

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-01T20:39:07Z

Mikael: /* Top Surface Leveling */

File:Leveling Method.png

2024-08-01T20:11:49Z

Mikael:

Leveling with the focus tool

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-01T19:14:50Z

Mikael: /* Roller Positioning */

File:Tubing Attachment 2.png

2024-08-01T18:58:11Z

Mikael:

Accessory for lightweight parts on rotary engraver

File:Tubing Attachment.png

2024-08-01T18:54:43Z

Mikael:

Accessory for lightweight parts

File:Roller Positionning.png

2024-08-01T18:50:15Z

Mikael:

Repositioning of the rollers using the set screw

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-08-01T18:23:00Z

Mikael: /* Setting Up the Part */

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-07-31T23:36:54Z

Mikael: Setting up the part

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-07-31T19:13:44Z

Mikael: Images

File:Focusing.png

2024-07-31T19:11:51Z

Mikael:

Proper focusing

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-07-31T17:50:51Z

Mikael: /* Setting Up the Tool */

[[File:Rotary Engraving Tool (1).jpg|thumb]]
Sometimes you want to engrave something that isn't flat, and that's okay. The Epilog laser engraver has an attachment that can let you do such things. The tool is equipped of motorized rollers that rotate your part (i.e. a water bottle) to allow you to engrave all around it. The Makerspace of uOttawa is perfectly well equipped to do this type of engraving.

=== Setting Up the Tool ===
To use the rotary engraving tool, follow these simple steps.

# To do so, simply lift up all the rulers
# Lift up the bed to take it out. The bed is not heavy, if you happen to struggle to take it out, there is probably an obstruction in the way. At the Makerspace, ask a staff member to assist you if possible.
# Remove the crumb trey by opening the front magnetic door of the laser and then sliding it out.
# Remove the cross section bar.
# There are pins underneath the tool and also a plug-in connection to connect on the laser
# You should see three holes at the bottom in which the tool pins are inserted and also the connection plug-in should now be exposed.
# The tool is now ready to be inserted into the machine. Simply line up the holes with the pins and connect the tool to the machine.
# Once the tool is set up, put down the rulers so there are no interferences with the laser head. Now turn on the Epilog laser and the machine will automatically position itself. If your machine was already turned on, turn it off and back on again. It can only recognize the rotary engraving tool on boot up.

[[File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png|center|thumb|770x770px]]

=== Setting Home Point ===
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|417x417px|Epilog Control Panel]]
When using this tool, the Epilog laser is pre-programmed to a set ''y'' coordinate, the only coordinate you can change is the ''x'' axis home point. To set home point, use the usual button combination on the control panel of ''X/Y Off (5.) → Go'' (1.) to disengage the gantry and then ''Set Home'' (4.) when the desired location is set. It is ok if you accidentally change the ''y'' position while setting your home point, the laser will not take the change into consideration.

=== Focusing ===
Focusing the laser works the same as usual. Do not use the Auto Focus feature on the Epilog laser in the Makerspace. Doing so will cause the bed to crash into the laser head. Use the manual focus by pressing the ''Focus'' (7.) button on the control panel, then add the focus tool to the laser head and use the up and down arrows (8.) so that the tip of the focus tool barely touches your part.

File:Rotary Engraving Tool (1).jpg

2024-07-31T17:44:42Z

Mikael:

Rotary engraving tool for Epilog laser

File:Rotary Engraving Tool.jpg

2024-07-31T17:35:57Z

Mikael:

Rotary engraving tool for Epilog laser

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-07-31T16:28:30Z

Mikael: /* Setting Up the Tool */

File:Rotary Tool Setup (3).png

2024-07-31T16:26:52Z

Mikael:

Step-by-step rotary engraving tool setup with annotation

File:Rotary Tool Setup (2).png

2024-07-31T16:19:47Z

Mikael:

Step-by-step setup pictures

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving

2024-07-31T15:27:00Z

Mikael: 1rst 3 sub heading

Digital technologies

2024-07-26T21:10:24Z

Mikael: /* Laser cutting resources */

Below you can find sections of different digital technologies, based on their level.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing|3D printing resources]]==
Modern printing technology has enabled the accurate printing of nearly any shape in a wide variety of materials, with many different printing methods to choose from. Selecting a print method will depend on the application, material, and budget used. Materials vary from almost any metal alloy, thermoplastics, ceramics, paper, edibles, rubbers, and clay. Printing methods include extrusion (heating material and forcing through a nozzle), powder bed (placing powdered material and using adhesive or melting to attach), and light polymerized (using UV light to polymerize material on a build plate). 3D Printers utilize an onboard controller to control the printer head and build plate in order to print each 2D layer in the right order and position. In addition, most 3D printers have downloadable software (slicers) that allows a user to position a 3D model on a virtual build platform, as well as adjust the printer’s settings for the build before sending the data to the printer. These 3D models used by the software can be generated using [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|CAD (computer-aided design)]] methods, laser scanning, or photogrammetry, although CAD is typically used in conjunction with the latter two to refine the output from these methods.

===3D printing===

*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner|3D Printing- Beginner]]
**Basic understanding of 3D printing and 3D printers
**Ability to slice and start a print on an Ultimaker 2+ printer
**Basic ability to troubleshoot a print
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|3D Printing- Intermediate]]
**Basic understanding of custom slicer settings and print orientation
**Basic understanding of print post processing
**Basic understanding of dual extrusion prints
**Basic understanding of different slicer software
**Intermediate understanding of printer functions
**Intermediate troubleshooting abilities
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Advanced|3D Printing- Advanced]]
**Ability to use all materials available at the Makerspace
**Ability to use all Makerspace printers
**Ability to print large components (print optimizations)
**Advanced understanding of 3D printing extrusion
**Proficient with UM2+ settings

===3D modeling (for 3D printing)===

*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|3D modeling- Beginner]]
**Basic knowledge of 3D modelling in TinkerCAD
**Basic knowledge of model modifications in TinkerCAD
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate|3D modeling- Intermediate]]
**Proficient 3D modelling skills in TinkerCAD
**Basic ability in parametric CAD modelling softwares
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced|3D modeling- Advanced]]
**Subdividing large models for 3D printing
**Basic understanding of one or more modelling softwares
**Basic understanding of 3D scanning and Scan to CAD

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser cutting resources]]==
Laser cutting uses a high-powered beam to cut material based on computer-controlled parameters. As the laser guides its beam along the material, everything in its direct path is vaporized, burned or melted. One of the benefits of laser cutting technology is the cut product rarely needs any finishing work as this process ensures a high-quality surface finish. A graphics software is used to import or create designs that are meant to be cut.

===Laser cutting===

*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner|Laser Cutting- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Intermediate|Laser Cutting- Intermediate]]
*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving|Rotary Laser Engraving]]

===Vector graphics editor===

*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Beginner|Vector Graphics- Beginner]]

*

==[[Digital technologies/Arduino|Arduino resources]]==
Arduino is an open-source electronics platform that provides an easy and accessible way to make robotics projects. The boards can receive input signals from sensors and produce outputs through its I/O pins. Arduino boards are used by a diverse set of people, including students, hobbyists, engineers, researchers due to the simple layout and programmability of the Arduino boards.

*[[Digital technologies/Arduino/Arduino- Beginner|Arduino- Beginner]]
** Basic understanding of programming
** Ability to control few components such as LEDs
** Basic understanding of how sensors work
** Basic understanding of the Arduino board

==[[Digital technologies/Soldering|Soldering resources]]==
Soldering allows you to create permanent/semi-permanent connection in any electrical circuit, this makes it ideal for later iterations of a project!
*[[Digital technologies/Soldering/Soldering- Beginner|Soldering- Beginner]]

==[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality|Virtual reality resources]]==

*[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality/Virtual reality- Beginner|Virtual Reality- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality/Unity Project Resources|Unity Project Resources]]

==[[Digital technologies/Textiles|Textile resources]]==

*[[Digital technologies/Textiles/Embroidery- Beginner|Embroidery- Beginner]]

==Other resources==

*[[Raspberry Pi]]
*[[PCB milling machine]]
*[[Vacuum Forming]]

Digital technologies

2024-07-26T21:08:54Z

Mikael: /* Laser cutting */

Below you can find sections of different digital technologies, based on their level.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing|3D printing resources]]==
Modern printing technology has enabled the accurate printing of nearly any shape in a wide variety of materials, with many different printing methods to choose from. Selecting a print method will depend on the application, material, and budget used. Materials vary from almost any metal alloy, thermoplastics, ceramics, paper, edibles, rubbers, and clay. Printing methods include extrusion (heating material and forcing through a nozzle), powder bed (placing powdered material and using adhesive or melting to attach), and light polymerized (using UV light to polymerize material on a build plate). 3D Printers utilize an onboard controller to control the printer head and build plate in order to print each 2D layer in the right order and position. In addition, most 3D printers have downloadable software (slicers) that allows a user to position a 3D model on a virtual build platform, as well as adjust the printer’s settings for the build before sending the data to the printer. These 3D models used by the software can be generated using [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|CAD (computer-aided design)]] methods, laser scanning, or photogrammetry, although CAD is typically used in conjunction with the latter two to refine the output from these methods.

===3D printing===

*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner|3D Printing- Beginner]]
**Basic understanding of 3D printing and 3D printers
**Ability to slice and start a print on an Ultimaker 2+ printer
**Basic ability to troubleshoot a print
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|3D Printing- Intermediate]]
**Basic understanding of custom slicer settings and print orientation
**Basic understanding of print post processing
**Basic understanding of dual extrusion prints
**Basic understanding of different slicer software
**Intermediate understanding of printer functions
**Intermediate troubleshooting abilities
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Advanced|3D Printing- Advanced]]
**Ability to use all materials available at the Makerspace
**Ability to use all Makerspace printers
**Ability to print large components (print optimizations)
**Advanced understanding of 3D printing extrusion
**Proficient with UM2+ settings

===3D modeling (for 3D printing)===

*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|3D modeling- Beginner]]
**Basic knowledge of 3D modelling in TinkerCAD
**Basic knowledge of model modifications in TinkerCAD
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate|3D modeling- Intermediate]]
**Proficient 3D modelling skills in TinkerCAD
**Basic ability in parametric CAD modelling softwares
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced|3D modeling- Advanced]]
**Subdividing large models for 3D printing
**Basic understanding of one or more modelling softwares
**Basic understanding of 3D scanning and Scan to CAD

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser cutting resources]]==
Laser cutting uses a high-powered beam to cut material based on computer-controlled parameters. As the laser guides its beam along the material, everything in its direct path is vaporized, burned or melted. One of the benefits of laser cutting technology is the cut product rarely needs any finishing work as this process ensures a high-quality surface finish. A graphics software is used to import or create designs that are meant to be cut.

===Laser cutting===

*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner|Laser Cutting- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Intermediate|Laser Cutting- Intermediate]]
*[[Rotary Laser Engraving]]

===Vector graphics editor===

*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Beginner|Vector Graphics- Beginner]]

*

==[[Digital technologies/Arduino|Arduino resources]]==
Arduino is an open-source electronics platform that provides an easy and accessible way to make robotics projects. The boards can receive input signals from sensors and produce outputs through its I/O pins. Arduino boards are used by a diverse set of people, including students, hobbyists, engineers, researchers due to the simple layout and programmability of the Arduino boards.

*[[Digital technologies/Arduino/Arduino- Beginner|Arduino- Beginner]]
** Basic understanding of programming
** Ability to control few components such as LEDs
** Basic understanding of how sensors work
** Basic understanding of the Arduino board

==[[Digital technologies/Soldering|Soldering resources]]==
Soldering allows you to create permanent/semi-permanent connection in any electrical circuit, this makes it ideal for later iterations of a project!
*[[Digital technologies/Soldering/Soldering- Beginner|Soldering- Beginner]]

==[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality|Virtual reality resources]]==

*[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality/Virtual reality- Beginner|Virtual Reality- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality/Unity Project Resources|Unity Project Resources]]

==[[Digital technologies/Textiles|Textile resources]]==

*[[Digital technologies/Textiles/Embroidery- Beginner|Embroidery- Beginner]]

==Other resources==

*[[Raspberry Pi]]
*[[PCB milling machine]]
*[[Vacuum Forming]]

Digital technologies/Vacuum Forming

2024-07-17T14:04:57Z

Mikael: /* Air Holes */

Vacuum forming is a manufacturing method used to shape a heated sheet of plastic around a certain mold using the force of a vacuum. It's great advantage is fast production of parts with minimal post processing. There are different methods to vacuum forming. The mold, also called the tool, can be either male or female. Male tools are used if precision is needed on the inside of the part. Female tools, often used with plugs, are used for precision on the outside of the part. Most industrial molds are machined from metal blocks, such aluminum. Although, the use of machined molds can get expensive as they are hard to make and can have a long lead time. If the tool needs replacing or modification, it can create a lot of down time. This is where 3D printed molds come in handy. They are not as durable as machined molds, but are ideal for fast prototyping. The complication with 3D printed molds is that filament is also a thermoplastic, which melts under heat. So how do you keep the integrity of your mold when in comes into contact with a very hot plastic sheet? This is what we will be covering in this document as to how to prepare your molds to perform as best as possible in the vacuum forming process.

== 3D Modeling your Mold ==
To succeed at vacuum forming it starts way before using the machine. A good mold is the foundation of a good part, with as little complications along the way.

=== Draft Angles ===
When vacuum forming your part, you want to avoid your mold getting stuck into it. To avoid this issue, we implement draft angles to all sides of the 3D model to ease the release of the mold. The recommended angle is 5° to 7° for male molds and 2° to 3° for female molds.
[[File:Draft Angles.png|center|thumb|400x400px|Note the difference between draft angles and the importance of choosing the right orientation]]

=== Undercuts ===
Similarly to the reason we apply draft angles, we avoid undercuts to prevent the risk of our mold getting stuck. A good way to avoid them is to ask yourself if your 3D part needs supports. If it does, then chances are that your mold will get stuck in your vacuum formed part.
[[File:Undercuts.png|center|thumb|577x577px|Comparison between annon-removable undercut (left) and a removable undercut (right)]]

=== Possible Depths ===
A plastic sheet only has a certain amount of material available to form a mold. There is a limit to the amount a material is capable to draw. There are formulas and guidelines available to determine that limit. When it comes to cavities, the maximum depth should not exceed 75% of the opening.
[[File:Depth.png|center|thumb|456x456px|Demonstration of reachable depths]]

=== Draw Ratio ===
Similarly as cavities, there is a maximum height you can have with your mold for a given sheet thickness. If you want your wall thickness of your final part to be a certain thickness, then you will use the draw ratio to find out which sheet thickness is best suited for your project. Here are the steps to calculate the draw ratio:

- Step 1: Calculate the surface area.

Using a CAD modeling software, you can easily get the surface area of your mold. If you do not have the exact number, you can approximate it by taking general measurements and assuming it as a simple geometry.

-Step 2: Calculate the footprint.

The footprint is the heated area of the plastic sheet and can be easily found if you know the dimensions of your machine.

-Step 3: Calculate the draw ratio.

To find the draw ratio, divide the surface area by the footprint.

Whichever number you end up with, you can multiply it by the desired wall thickness to find the starting gauge of your plastic sheet.

=== Edges / Fillets ===
Whenever you create a part for vacuum forming, you want to avoid sharp edges or sharp angles as much as possible. The thicker your plastic is, the less capable it will be to take the shape of those sharp corners. The thinner the material is, the more susceptible it is to overstretching.
[[File:Edges Fillets (1).png|alt=|center|thumb|360x360px|Example of smoothing out corners for easier part forming]]

=== Air Holes ===
For the plastic sheet to be able to take the shape of your mold, air needs to be able to escape from between them. To help achieve so, we implement air holes at strategically placed locations. In general, these locations imply any area that is lower than it's surrounding such as cavities, where an air pocket can easily be formed. Air holes should be spaced at least 25mm apart and their diameter should be around 1mm for sheets up to 2mm in thickness and 1.5mm diameter for materials above 2mm in thickness. Materials under 1mm in thickness may require 0.75mm holes, such as polypropylene that will tend to seek out any holes or gaps in tooling.
[[File:Capture-d’écran-2022-06-21-à-14.48.52.png|center|thumb|[https://www.formech.com/blog/formech-technical-newsletter-tooling-materials-3-2 Air hole positioning for vacuum forming]]]

It is ok to add air holes directly in your 3D model but it will increase print time unnecessarily. It is recommended instead to drill the holes manually with the correct drill bit size and protective gear. You can visit the [https://www.vaquform.com/blogs/news/how-to-3d-print-molds-for-vacuum-forming VAQUFORM] page where they talk more in depth about air holes.

== Printer Settings ==
Once your 3D model of your mold is complete, it is time to print it. This is the part where slicer settings and filament selection will help the most towards the durability of your mold. Visit the [https://www.vaquform.com/blogs/news/how-to-3d-print-molds-for-vacuum-forming VAQUFORM] page for a detailed explanation on how to make your prints.

== Health and Safety with Vacuum Forming ==
Vacuum forming is a generally safe machine that takes little effort to manufacture parts with great quality. Although, there still are safety aspects to take into consideration. When you encounter a problem with the machine, it is important to alert the staff about it and DO NOT attempt to fix it yourself. Reparations and changes to the machine should only be made by qualified personnel.

=== Burns ===
Evidently, the vacuum form machine uses heat reaching up to 300°C to soften the plastic. Consequently, some parts of the machine can get very very hot. It is important to know which those are and keep body parts clear of these area. The plastic part will also be very hot after forming. You should let it cool down before attempting to handle it. If you must handle the part immediately after forming, wear the proper PPE such as heat protective gloves. To test to see if the part is still hot, approach it gently with the back of your hand. If you can feel the heat without touching it, it is probably too hot to handle. If you cannot feel any heat from a distance, try and get closer until you can touch it rapidly without feeling excessive heat. From there it should be safe to touch the part without getting burned instantly and gauge if you can handle it or not.

=== Toxic Fumes ===
It is important to keep in mind that melting a plastic emits toxic fumes. Although a vacuum form machine doesn't completely melt plastics, it does bring it past it's glass transition temperature, where polymer chains are allowed to move some encounter thermal decomposition. "During thermal decomposition, polymers breakdown into hazardous plastic fumes, fatty acids, and the original manufacturing compounds."<ref>[https://www.sentryair.com/plastic-fumes.htm#:~:text=During%20thermal%20decomposition%2C%20polymers%20breakdown,fires%20in%20a%20burning%20building. Plastic Fumes - Sentry Air Systems]</ref> Material choice is important not only for your project, but also the safety of the people working int the same space. Have your material approved by staff before using it. '''Do not leave heaters unattended and do not overheat plastic sheets!''' Doing so will increase the risk of releasing toxic fume.

=== Trapping ===
There is a risk of trapping when operating the vacuum form machine. Use caution when using the clamp frame to ensure fingers or hands will not get trapped. This is a single person operating machine. Use caution when someone else is around.

== References ==

File:Capture-d’écran-2022-06-21-à-14.48.52.png

2024-07-15T21:38:20Z

Mikael:

Air holes positioning for vacuum forming

Digital technologies/Vacuum Forming

2024-07-15T19:35:34Z

Mikael: /* Trapping */

Vacuum forming is a manufacturing method used to shape a heated sheet of plastic around a certain mold using the force of a vacuum. It's great advantage is fast production of parts with minimal post processing. There are different methods to vacuum forming. The mold, also called the tool, can be either male or female. Male tools are used if precision is needed on the inside of the part. Female tools, often used with plugs, are used for precision on the outside of the part. Most industrial molds are machined from metal blocks, such aluminum. Although, the use of machined molds can get expensive as they are hard to make and can have a long lead time. If the tool needs replacing or modification, it can create a lot of down time. This is where 3D printed molds come in handy. They are not as durable as machined molds, but are ideal for fast prototyping. The complication with 3D printed molds is that filament is also a thermoplastic, which melts under heat. So how do you keep the integrity of your mold when in comes into contact with a very hot plastic sheet? This is what we will be covering in this document as to how to prepare your molds to perform as best as possible in the vacuum forming process.

== 3D Modeling your Mold ==
To succeed at vacuum forming it starts way before using the machine. A good mold is the foundation of a good part, with as little complications along the way.

=== Draft Angles ===
When vacuum forming your part, you want to avoid your mold getting stuck into it. To avoid this issue, we implement draft angles to all sides of the 3D model to ease the release of the mold. The recommended angle is 5° to 7° for male molds and 2° to 3° for female molds.
[[File:Draft Angles.png|center|thumb|400x400px|Note the difference between draft angles and the importance of choosing the right orientation]]

=== Undercuts ===
Similarly to the reason we apply draft angles, we avoid undercuts to prevent the risk of our mold getting stuck. A good way to avoid them is to ask yourself if your 3D part needs supports. If it does, then chances are that your mold will get stuck in your vacuum formed part.
[[File:Undercuts.png|center|thumb|577x577px|Comparison between annon-removable undercut (left) and a removable undercut (right)]]

=== Possible Depths ===
A plastic sheet only has a certain amount of material available to form a mold. There is a limit to the amount a material is capable to draw. There are formulas and guidelines available to determine that limit. When it comes to cavities, the maximum depth should not exceed 75% of the opening.
[[File:Depth.png|center|thumb|456x456px|Demonstration of reachable depths]]

=== Draw Ratio ===
Similarly as cavities, there is a maximum height you can have with your mold for a given sheet thickness. If you want your wall thickness of your final part to be a certain thickness, then you will use the draw ratio to find out which sheet thickness is best suited for your project. Here are the steps to calculate the draw ratio:

- Step 1: Calculate the surface area.

Using a CAD modeling software, you can easily get the surface area of your mold. If you do not have the exact number, you can approximate it by taking general measurements and assuming it as a simple geometry.

-Step 2: Calculate the footprint.

The footprint is the heated area of the plastic sheet and can be easily found if you know the dimensions of your machine.

-Step 3: Calculate the draw ratio.

To find the draw ratio, divide the surface area by the footprint.

Whichever number you end up with, you can multiply it by the desired wall thickness to find the starting gauge of your plastic sheet.

=== Edges / Fillets ===
Whenever you create a part for vacuum forming, you want to avoid sharp edges or sharp angles as much as possible. The thicker your plastic is, the less capable it will be to take the shape of those sharp corners. The thinner the material is, the more susceptible it is to overstretching.
[[File:Edges Fillets (1).png|alt=|center|thumb|360x360px|Example of smoothing out corners for easier part forming]]

=== Air Holes ===
For the plastic sheet to be able to take the shape of your mold, air needs to be able to escape from between them. To help achieve so, we implement air holes at strategically placed locations. In general, these locations imply any area that is lower than it's surrounding such as cavities, where an air pocket can easily be formed. It is ok to add air holes directly in your 3D model but it will increase print time unnecessarily. It is recommended instead to drill the holes manually with the correct drill bit size and protective gear. Visit the [https://www.vaquform.com/blogs/news/how-to-3d-print-molds-for-vacuum-forming VAQUFORM] page where they talk more in depth about air holes.

== Printer Settings ==
Once your 3D model of your mold is complete, it is time to print it. This is the part where slicer settings and filament selection will help the most towards the durability of your mold. Visit the [https://www.vaquform.com/blogs/news/how-to-3d-print-molds-for-vacuum-forming VAQUFORM] page for a detailed explanation on how to make your prints.

== Health and Safety with Vacuum Forming ==
Vacuum forming is a generally safe machine that takes little effort to manufacture parts with great quality. Although, there still are safety aspects to take into consideration. When you encounter a problem with the machine, it is important to alert the staff about it and DO NOT attempt to fix it yourself. Reparations and changes to the machine should only be made by qualified personnel.

=== Burns ===
Evidently, the vacuum form machine uses heat reaching up to 300°C to soften the plastic. Consequently, some parts of the machine can get very very hot. It is important to know which those are and keep body parts clear of these area. The plastic part will also be very hot after forming. You should let it cool down before attempting to handle it. If you must handle the part immediately after forming, wear the proper PPE such as heat protective gloves. To test to see if the part is still hot, approach it gently with the back of your hand. If you can feel the heat without touching it, it is probably too hot to handle. If you cannot feel any heat from a distance, try and get closer until you can touch it rapidly without feeling excessive heat. From there it should be safe to touch the part without getting burned instantly and gauge if you can handle it or not.

=== Toxic Fumes ===
It is important to keep in mind that melting a plastic emits toxic fumes. Although a vacuum form machine doesn't completely melt plastics, it does bring it past it's glass transition temperature, where polymer chains are allowed to move some encounter thermal decomposition. "During thermal decomposition, polymers breakdown into hazardous plastic fumes, fatty acids, and the original manufacturing compounds."<ref>[https://www.sentryair.com/plastic-fumes.htm#:~:text=During%20thermal%20decomposition%2C%20polymers%20breakdown,fires%20in%20a%20burning%20building. Plastic Fumes - Sentry Air Systems]</ref> Material choice is important not only for your project, but also the safety of the people working int the same space. Have your material approved by staff before using it. '''Do not leave heaters unattended and do not overheat plastic sheets!''' Doing so will increase the risk of releasing toxic fume.

=== Trapping ===
There is a risk of trapping when operating the vacuum form machine. Use caution when using the clamp frame to ensure fingers or hands will not get trapped. This is a single person operating machine. Use caution when someone else is around.

== References ==

Digital technologies/Vacuum Forming

2024-07-15T19:35:04Z

Mikael: /* Trapping */

Vacuum forming is a manufacturing method used to shape a heated sheet of plastic around a certain mold using the force of a vacuum. It's great advantage is fast production of parts with minimal post processing. There are different methods to vacuum forming. The mold, also called the tool, can be either male or female. Male tools are used if precision is needed on the inside of the part. Female tools, often used with plugs, are used for precision on the outside of the part. Most industrial molds are machined from metal blocks, such aluminum. Although, the use of machined molds can get expensive as they are hard to make and can have a long lead time. If the tool needs replacing or modification, it can create a lot of down time. This is where 3D printed molds come in handy. They are not as durable as machined molds, but are ideal for fast prototyping. The complication with 3D printed molds is that filament is also a thermoplastic, which melts under heat. So how do you keep the integrity of your mold when in comes into contact with a very hot plastic sheet? This is what we will be covering in this document as to how to prepare your molds to perform as best as possible in the vacuum forming process.

== 3D Modeling your Mold ==
To succeed at vacuum forming it starts way before using the machine. A good mold is the foundation of a good part, with as little complications along the way.

=== Draft Angles ===
When vacuum forming your part, you want to avoid your mold getting stuck into it. To avoid this issue, we implement draft angles to all sides of the 3D model to ease the release of the mold. The recommended angle is 5° to 7° for male molds and 2° to 3° for female molds.
[[File:Draft Angles.png|center|thumb|400x400px|Note the difference between draft angles and the importance of choosing the right orientation]]

=== Undercuts ===
Similarly to the reason we apply draft angles, we avoid undercuts to prevent the risk of our mold getting stuck. A good way to avoid them is to ask yourself if your 3D part needs supports. If it does, then chances are that your mold will get stuck in your vacuum formed part.
[[File:Undercuts.png|center|thumb|577x577px|Comparison between annon-removable undercut (left) and a removable undercut (right)]]

=== Possible Depths ===
A plastic sheet only has a certain amount of material available to form a mold. There is a limit to the amount a material is capable to draw. There are formulas and guidelines available to determine that limit. When it comes to cavities, the maximum depth should not exceed 75% of the opening.
[[File:Depth.png|center|thumb|456x456px|Demonstration of reachable depths]]

=== Draw Ratio ===
Similarly as cavities, there is a maximum height you can have with your mold for a given sheet thickness. If you want your wall thickness of your final part to be a certain thickness, then you will use the draw ratio to find out which sheet thickness is best suited for your project. Here are the steps to calculate the draw ratio:

- Step 1: Calculate the surface area.

Using a CAD modeling software, you can easily get the surface area of your mold. If you do not have the exact number, you can approximate it by taking general measurements and assuming it as a simple geometry.

-Step 2: Calculate the footprint.

The footprint is the heated area of the plastic sheet and can be easily found if you know the dimensions of your machine.

-Step 3: Calculate the draw ratio.

To find the draw ratio, divide the surface area by the footprint.

Whichever number you end up with, you can multiply it by the desired wall thickness to find the starting gauge of your plastic sheet.

=== Edges / Fillets ===
Whenever you create a part for vacuum forming, you want to avoid sharp edges or sharp angles as much as possible. The thicker your plastic is, the less capable it will be to take the shape of those sharp corners. The thinner the material is, the more susceptible it is to overstretching.
[[File:Edges Fillets (1).png|alt=|center|thumb|360x360px|Example of smoothing out corners for easier part forming]]

=== Air Holes ===
For the plastic sheet to be able to take the shape of your mold, air needs to be able to escape from between them. To help achieve so, we implement air holes at strategically placed locations. In general, these locations imply any area that is lower than it's surrounding such as cavities, where an air pocket can easily be formed. It is ok to add air holes directly in your 3D model but it will increase print time unnecessarily. It is recommended instead to drill the holes manually with the correct drill bit size and protective gear. Visit the [https://www.vaquform.com/blogs/news/how-to-3d-print-molds-for-vacuum-forming VAQUFORM] page where they talk more in depth about air holes.

== Printer Settings ==
Once your 3D model of your mold is complete, it is time to print it. This is the part where slicer settings and filament selection will help the most towards the durability of your mold. Visit the [https://www.vaquform.com/blogs/news/how-to-3d-print-molds-for-vacuum-forming VAQUFORM] page for a detailed explanation on how to make your prints.

== Health and Safety with Vacuum Forming ==
Vacuum forming is a generally safe machine that takes little effort to manufacture parts with great quality. Although, there still are safety aspects to take into consideration. When you encounter a problem with the machine, it is important to alert the staff about it and DO NOT attempt to fix it yourself. Reparations and changes to the machine should only be made by qualified personnel.

=== Burns ===
Evidently, the vacuum form machine uses heat reaching up to 300°C to soften the plastic. Consequently, some parts of the machine can get very very hot. It is important to know which those are and keep body parts clear of these area. The plastic part will also be very hot after forming. You should let it cool down before attempting to handle it. If you must handle the part immediately after forming, wear the proper PPE such as heat protective gloves. To test to see if the part is still hot, approach it gently with the back of your hand. If you can feel the heat without touching it, it is probably too hot to handle. If you cannot feel any heat from a distance, try and get closer until you can touch it rapidly without feeling excessive heat. From there it should be safe to touch the part without getting burned instantly and gauge if you can handle it or not.

=== Toxic Fumes ===
It is important to keep in mind that melting a plastic emits toxic fumes. Although a vacuum form machine doesn't completely melt plastics, it does bring it past it's glass transition temperature, where polymer chains are allowed to move some encounter thermal decomposition. "During thermal decomposition, polymers breakdown into hazardous plastic fumes, fatty acids, and the original manufacturing compounds."<ref>[https://www.sentryair.com/plastic-fumes.htm#:~:text=During%20thermal%20decomposition%2C%20polymers%20breakdown,fires%20in%20a%20burning%20building. Plastic Fumes - Sentry Air Systems]</ref> Material choice is important not only for your project, but also the safety of the people working int the same space. Have your material approved by staff before using it. '''Do not leave heaters unattended and do not overheat plastic sheets!''' Doing so will increase the risk of releasing toxic fume.

=== Trapping ===
There is a risk of trapping when operating the vacuum form machine. Use caution when using the clamp frame to ensure fingers or hands will not get trapped. This is a single person operating machine. Use caution when someone else is around.