CEED Wiki - User contributions [en]

Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech Resources

2025-12-30T21:20:51Z

Jboud030:

AT (assistive technology) resources are tools to help users navigate different learning content and information regarding devices designed in the area of accessibility.

==Accessibility Design Considerations==

=== User Interfaces ===
Ensure that when you design your UI for clients having <u>accessibility needs</u>, you take into considerations the colours you use.

*[http://colorsafe.co/ This website] and [https://webaim.org/resources/contrastchecker/ this website] based on the Web Content Accessibility Guidelines (WCAG) is a ''great'' resource that was suggested by a client who works in accessibility!
*[https://accessibility.blog.gov.uk/2016/09/02/dos-and-donts-on-designing-for-accessibility/ This website] also has great infographics for do’s and don'ts on designing for different accessibility groups.
*[http://www.sussex.ac.uk/tel/resource/tel_website/accessiblecontrast/?q=FFFFFF~003b49~1d4289~94a596~e56db1~d3273e~00bfb2~d6d2c4~ffc845~dc582a~41b6e6~1b365d~be84a3~5d3754~7da1c4~f2c75c~d0d3d4~007a78~000000 This University of Sussex page] with a few pre-loaded colours can be a very useful tool for this as well. Notice how the [http://www.sussex.ac.uk/tel/resource/tel_website/accessiblecontrast/?q=8f001a~ffffff uOttawa official backdrop colour scores well with white text].
*[https://www.color-blindness.com/coblis-color-blindness-simulator/ This website] allows you to upload a picture and see it through the eyes of someone with colour blindness.

===Different Types of Switches===
[[File:Switches.webp|thumb|Assessment switch kit from [https://www.inclusive.com/collections/hardware-switch-access-technology?srsltid=AfmBOor5k2U9DGBf6fpfp51f0ttOojLUWdYBH8VR1NSEDCSKCr3rWfbH inclusive.com]]]
A switch is an accessibility tool that can be used to control technology such as computers, smartphones, communication aids, powered wheelchairs, light switches, etc. They are used for people who have limitations in mobility or cognition. Because a switch only has the option of yes/on or no/off, it allows for more precise communication.

The following links are to websites that explain the differences between multiple types of switches. This should be your first step when determining what switch you will use in your design.
* [https://www.perkins.org/resource/introduction-7-common-adaptive-switches/ Introduction to 7 common adaptive switches]
* [https://www.testdevlab.com/blog/adaptive-switches-and-switch-access-in-accessibility-testing Adaptive switches and switch access in accessibility testing]
[[File:Auxcord.jpg|thumb|Example of aux cord from [https://bltt.org/switch-access/ better living through technology]]]

==== Aux Port Cords ====
Many designs for accessibility involve an aux cord to connect switches to various devices. It’s important to consider that each client or user that will use your prototype will have different needs when it comes to their abilities. Keep this in mind and ensure you are using as many universally adaptive subsystems as possible like the [https://www.newegg.ca/satellitesale-3-ft-stereo-cables/p/1BJ-007D-00029 Universal aux cord] or the [https://www.pishop.ca/product/breadboard-friendly-3-5mm-stereo-headphone-jack/ breadboard friendly headphone jack]. This allows a user to connect any switch that works for them to your device.

[https://www.inclusive.com/collections/hardware-switch-access-technology The Inclusive website] and [https://enablingdevices.com/product-category/switches/ Enabling devices] show a variety of switches and materials to use them.

=== Using 3D printing ===
3D printing can be a powerful tool when thinking about accessibility devices since it can easily create custom shapes and features.However there is a time and place to use it and the strengths and weaknesses of the technology should bee considered,

Here are 13 Tips for Designing 3D Printed Assistive Technology: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJV08sxxMKE

== Makers Making Change ==
[[File:MMC logo.png|thumb|200x200px|Makers Making Change logo]]

=== Resources ===
Makers making change has many resources for assistive tech. This is a list of beginner friendly tutorials and guides for you to get started on projects.
*[https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/3D_Printing// 3D Printing]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/Arduino// Arduino]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/CAD// CAD]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/Git_Hub// GitHub]
[[File:MMC library example.jpg|thumb|240x240px|Examples of accessibility aids made by Makers Making Change.]]

=== Assistive Devices ===
Makers Making Change also has a website that includes a [https://www.makersmakingchange.com/s/assistive-devices Library] of assistive devices they have had volunteers create for people. This is a great resource for assisting in the design process as well as benchmarking and prototyping existing products.

They have many more Open AT resources that can be explored through this link to their homepage [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/?mc%20cid=49f86fff41. Here]

== Instructables ==
[https://www.instructables.com/ Instructables] is a website that combines tips & tricks of different tools with workshops, designs, crafts, and more! They integrate learning with hands on examples just like your labs!

You can search up any key words like [https://www.instructables.com/search/?q=assistive%20tech&projects=featured Assistive tech] and filter through different tools such as laser cutting and 3D printing.

== Resource Library for Inclusion & Accessibility ==
The Rick Hansen Foundation has an online library full of e-books, lessons, activities, videos, and more on the importance of accessibility. This is a great resource for empathy and perspective for GNG 2101 projects. The library is completely free for anyone to use and can be accessed [https://www.rickhansen.com/schools-communities/resource-library Here].

== CocreHub ==
This is another site (need to translate from japanese) which hosts many assistive devices which you can download: https://cocrehub.com/dl/767bfd

It also has some occupational design guidelines and 3D printing tips: https://cocrehub.com/dl/63ace4

Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech Resources

2025-12-14T22:37:38Z

Jboud030:

Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech Resources

2025-12-14T22:32:38Z

Jboud030:

AT (assistive technology) resources are online tools to help users navigate different learning content and information regarding devices designed around accessibility.

==Accessibility Design Considerations==

=== User Interfaces ===
Ensure that when you design your UI for clients having <u>accessibility needs</u>, you take into considerations the colours you use.

*[http://colorsafe.co/ This website] and [https://webaim.org/resources/contrastchecker/ this website] based on the Web Content Accessibility Guidelines (WCAG) is a ''great'' resource that was suggested by a client who works in accessibility!
*[https://accessibility.blog.gov.uk/2016/09/02/dos-and-donts-on-designing-for-accessibility/ This website] also has great infographics for do’s and don'ts on designing for different accessibility groups.
*[http://www.sussex.ac.uk/tel/resource/tel_website/accessiblecontrast/?q=FFFFFF~003b49~1d4289~94a596~e56db1~d3273e~00bfb2~d6d2c4~ffc845~dc582a~41b6e6~1b365d~be84a3~5d3754~7da1c4~f2c75c~d0d3d4~007a78~000000 This University of Sussex page] with a few pre-loaded colours can be a very useful tool for this as well. Notice how the [http://www.sussex.ac.uk/tel/resource/tel_website/accessiblecontrast/?q=8f001a~ffffff uOttawa official backdrop colour scores well with white text].
*[https://www.color-blindness.com/coblis-color-blindness-simulator/ This website] allows you to upload a picture and see it through the eyes of someone with colour blindness.

===Different Types of Switches===
[[File:Switches.webp|thumb|Assessment switch kit from [https://www.inclusive.com/collections/hardware-switch-access-technology?srsltid=AfmBOor5k2U9DGBf6fpfp51f0ttOojLUWdYBH8VR1NSEDCSKCr3rWfbH inclusive.com]]]
A switch is an accessibility tool that can be used to control technology such as computers, smartphones, communication aids, powered wheelchairs, light switches, etc. They are used for people who have limitations in mobility or cognition. Because a switch only has the option of yes/on or no/off, it allows for more precise communication.

The following links are to websites that explain the differences between multiple types of switches. This should be your first step when determining what switch you will use in your design.
* [https://www.perkins.org/resource/introduction-7-common-adaptive-switches/ Introduction to 7 common adaptive switches]
* [https://www.testdevlab.com/blog/adaptive-switches-and-switch-access-in-accessibility-testing Adaptive switches and switch access in accessibility testing]
[[File:Auxcord.jpg|thumb|Example of aux cord from [https://bltt.org/switch-access/ better living through technology]]]

==== Aux Port Cords ====
Many designs for accessibility involve an aux cord to connect switches to various devices. It’s important to consider that each client or user that will use your prototype will have different needs when it comes to their abilities. Keep this in mind and ensure you are using as many universally adaptive subsystems as possible like the [https://www.newegg.ca/satellitesale-3-ft-stereo-cables/p/1BJ-007D-00029 Universal aux cord] or the [https://www.pishop.ca/product/breadboard-friendly-3-5mm-stereo-headphone-jack/ breadboard friendly headphone jack]. This allows a user to connect any switch that works for them to your device.

[https://www.inclusive.com/collections/hardware-switch-access-technology The Inclusive website] and [https://enablingdevices.com/product-category/switches/ Enabling devices] show a variety of switches and materials to use them.

=== Using 3D printing ===
3D printing can be a powerful tool when thinking about accessibility devices since it can easily create custom shapes and features.However there is a time and place to use it and the strengths and weaknesses of the technology should bee considered,

Here are 13 Tips for Designing 3D Printed Assistive Technology: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJV08sxxMKE

== Makers Making Change ==
[[File:MMC logo.png|thumb|200x200px|Makers Making Change logo]]

=== Resources ===
Makers making change has many resources for assistive tech. This is a list of beginner friendly tutorials and guides for you to get started on projects.
*[https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/3D_Printing// 3D Printing]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/Arduino// Arduino]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/CAD// CAD]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/Git_Hub// GitHub]
[[File:MMC library example.jpg|thumb|240x240px|Examples of accessibility aids made by Makers Making Change.]]

=== Assistive Devices ===
Makers Making Change also has a website that includes a [https://www.makersmakingchange.com/s/assistive-devices Library] of assistive devices they have had volunteers create for people. This is a great resource for assisting in the design process as well as benchmarking and prototyping existing products.

They have many more Open AT resources that can be explored through this link to their homepage [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/?mc%20cid=49f86fff41. Here]

== Instructables ==
[https://www.instructables.com/ Instructables] is a website that combines tips & tricks of different tools with workshops, designs, crafts, and more! They integrate learning with hands on examples just like your labs!

You can search up any key words like [https://www.instructables.com/search/?q=assistive%20tech&projects=featured Assistive tech] and filter through different tools such as laser cutting and 3D printing.

== Resource Library for Inclusion & Accessibility ==
The Rick Hansen Foundation has an online library full of e-books, lessons, activities, videos, and more on the importance of accessibility. This is a great resource for empathy and perspective for GNG 2101 projects. The library is completely free for anyone to use and can be accessed [https://www.rickhansen.com/schools-communities/resource-library Here].

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2025-11-06T03:23:53Z

Jboud030:

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings.

If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

'''<u>[[Digital technologies/3D printing/Tutorial: How to 3D print|If you only need a quick refresher, or you want to 3D print something without going into depth in the subject matter, you can find a tutorial by clicking here.]]</u>'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
[[File:FDM Printing Process.png|thumb|Image showing how material is laid down in layers to build up a 3D object in the FDM printing process.<ref>Gringer (Wikipedia User, 2018). Fused Filament Fabrication. Wikipedia. Accessed 2022-07-25 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication</ref>|alt=]]
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>|alt=|thumb]]

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1000x1000px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Prusa MK4S
| image = m4ks.webp
| slicerName = PrusaSlicer
| slicerLink = https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/
| materials = PLA, PETG, Flex, PVA, PC, ABS, ASA, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.05
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 250
| buildDepth = 210
| buildHeight = 220
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = FLsun v400
| image = Flsun v400.jpg
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| buildVolume = ⌀300 × 410 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.05
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 300
| buildDepth = 300
| buildHeight = 410
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Stratasys Dimension SST 1200es
| image = Dimension-1200es.jpg
| slicerName = GrabCAD Print
| slicerLink = https://grabcad.com/print
| buildVolume = 254 × 254 × 305 mm
| materials = ABS, Soluble support
| minLayerHeight = 0.254
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 254
| buildDepth = 254
| buildHeight = 305
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Stratasys_Dimension_SST
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Stratasys F170
| image = stratasys-f170.jpg
| slicerName = GrabCAD Print
| slicerLink = https://grabcad.com/print
| buildVolume = 254 × 254 × 254 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, ASA, TPU, Soluble support
| minLayerHeight = 0.127
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 254
| buildDepth = 254
| buildHeight = 254
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra
| image = Saturn-4-Ultra.webp
| slicerName = ChituBox
| slicerLink = https://www.chitubox.com/en/download/chitubox-free
| buildVolume = 218.88 x 122.88 x 220 mm
| materials = Standard, ABS-like, plant based, water-washable, rubber, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 218.88
| buildDepth = 122.88
| buildHeight = 220
}}



Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

[[Tutorial-3D printing with resin|'''<u>If you need a quick tutorial on how to use the resin printer at the Makerspace, click on this link.</u>''']]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing|Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing]] ==
<youtube>Jj2cx4nQ3IE</youtube>

=== Burn Hazard ===
Since FDM 3D printers melt materials, these carry an important burn hazard. Refrain from touching the 3D printer nozzle (200°C and hotter) and build plate (60°C and hotter). Hot parts are typically labelled on machines, but it can happen for the labelling to become worn down, and such it is important for you to know of these hazards so you may protect yourself against them.

=== Respiratory Hazard ===
It has been reported that materials melted by FDM printers can release harmful airborne particulates. It is important to use 3D printers in well ventilated areas or to use printers equipped with an air extractor. Air quality measurements of our Makerspace (STEM 107) have been professionally taken with 24 Ultimaker 2+ printers running for extended periods of time (as would be the case on a very busy day at the Makerspace). Thanks to proper ventilation of the space, the particulate concentration measured is well below regulatory limits.

=== Fire Hazard ===
Since the 3D printing process involves lots of heat and plastics, most of which are flammable, if the plastic being used runs out or accumulates around the printer nozzle and the temperature sensors limiting the nozzle temperature malfunctions, the printer could catch fire from overheating. This is why unsupervised (such as overnight) printing is prohibited on printers that have no shutoff mechanisms that would avoid conditions that may lead to the printer catching fire.

=== Pinch Hazard ===
Since printers have exposed moving parts, and the movements of the print head can be unexpected, the printers present a pinch hazard. Avoid introducing body parts close to a printer's moving parts.

=== Bodily Harm Hazard ===
''<u>While bodily harm hazards are not applicable to the small FDM printers in our Makerspace</u>'', they may be very real on larger printers where the drive mechanisms are very powerful to account for fast and accurate movements of a heavy print head. As a general rule when working with industrial machinery, please refrain from introducing any parts of your body within the range of movement of the print head or near exposed moving parts of machinery while it is powered on.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
<youtube>sumwQ-b_jlc</youtube>

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>rxH_xZBCdaU</youtube>
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
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Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2025-10-20T18:58:14Z

Jboud030:

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings.

If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

'''<u>[[Digital technologies/3D printing/Tutorial: How to 3D print|If you only need a quick refresher, or you want to 3D print something without going into depth in the subject matter, you can find a tutorial by clicking here.]]</u>'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
[[File:FDM Printing Process.png|thumb|Image showing how material is laid down in layers to build up a 3D object in the FDM printing process.<ref>Gringer (Wikipedia User, 2018). Fused Filament Fabrication. Wikipedia. Accessed 2022-07-25 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication</ref>|alt=]]
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>|alt=|thumb]]

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1000x1000px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Prusa MK4S
| image = m4ks.webp
| slicerName = PrusaSlicer
| slicerLink = https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/
| materials = PLA, PETG, Flex, PVA, PC, ABS, ASA, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.05
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 250
| buildDepth = 210
| buildHeight = 220
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = FLsun v400
| image = Flsun v400.jpg
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| buildVolume = ⌀300 × 410 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.05
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 300
| buildDepth = 300
| buildHeight = 410
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Stratasys Dimension SST 1200es
| image = Dimension-1200es.jpg
| slicerName = GrabCAD Print
| slicerLink = https://grabcad.com/print
| buildVolume = 254 × 254 × 305 mm
| materials = ABS, Soluble support
| minLayerHeight = 0.254
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 254
| buildDepth = 254
| buildHeight = 305
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Stratasys_Dimension_SST
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Stratasys F170
| image = stratasys-f170.jpg
| slicerName = GrabCAD Print
| slicerLink = https://grabcad.com/print
| buildVolume = 254 × 254 × 254 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, ASA, TPU, Soluble support
| minLayerHeight = 0.127
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 254
| buildDepth = 254
| buildHeight = 254
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra
| image = Saturn-4-Ultra.webp
| slicerName = ChituBox
| slicerLink = https://www.chitubox.com/en/download/chitubox-free
| buildVolume = 218.88 x 122.88 x 220 mm
| materials = Standard, ABS-like, plant based, water-washable, rubber, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 218.88
| buildDepth = 122.88
| buildHeight = 220
}}



Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

[[Tutorial-3D printing with resin|'''<u>If you need a quick tutorial on how to use the resin printer at the Makerspace, click on this link.</u>''']]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing|Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing]] ==
<youtube>Jj2cx4nQ3IE</youtube>

=== Burn Hazard ===
Since FDM 3D printers melt materials, these carry an important burn hazard. Refrain from touching the 3D printer nozzle (200°C and hotter) and build plate (60°C and hotter). Hot parts are typically labelled on machines, but it can happen for the labelling to become worn down, and such it is important for you to know of these hazards so you may protect yourself against them.

=== Respiratory Hazard ===
It has been reported that materials melted by FDM printers can release harmful airborne particulates. It is important to use 3D printers in well ventilated areas or to use printers equipped with an air extractor. Air quality measurements of our Makerspace (STEM 107) have been professionally taken with 24 Ultimaker 2+ printers running for extended periods of time (as would be the case on a very busy day at the Makerspace). Thanks to proper ventilation of the space, the particulate concentration measured is well below regulatory limits.

=== Fire Hazard ===
Since the 3D printing process involves lots of heat and plastics, most of which are flammable, if the plastic being used runs out or accumulates around the printer nozzle and the temperature sensors limiting the nozzle temperature malfunctions, the printer could catch fire from overheating. This is why unsupervised (such as overnight) printing is prohibited on printers that have no shutoff mechanisms that would avoid conditions that may lead to the printer catching fire.

=== Pinch Hazard ===
Since printers have exposed moving parts, and the movements of the print head can be unexpected, the printers present a pinch hazard. Avoid introducing body parts close to a printer's moving parts.

=== Bodily Harm Hazard ===
''<u>While bodily harm hazards are not applicable to the small FDM printers in our Makerspace</u>'', they may be very real on larger printers where the drive mechanisms are very powerful to account for fast and accurate movements of a heavy print head. As a general rule when working with industrial machinery, please refrain from introducing any parts of your body within the range of movement of the print head or near exposed moving parts of machinery while it is powered on.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
<youtube>sumwQ-b_jlc</youtube>

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
<youtube>uKsou-GEzt0</youtube>

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2025-10-20T18:57:09Z

Jboud030:

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings.

If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

'''<u>[[Digital technologies/3D printing/Tutorial: How to 3D print|If you only need a quick refresher, or you want to 3D print something without going into depth in the subject matter, you can find a tutorial by clicking here.]]</u>'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
[[File:FDM Printing Process.png|thumb|Image showing how material is laid down in layers to build up a 3D object in the FDM printing process.<ref>Gringer (Wikipedia User, 2018). Fused Filament Fabrication. Wikipedia. Accessed 2022-07-25 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication</ref>|alt=]]
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>|alt=|thumb]]

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1000x1000px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Prusa MK4S
| image = mk4s.webp
| slicerName = PrusaSlicer
| slicerLink = https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/
| materials = PLA, PETG, Flex, PVA, PC, ABS, ASA, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.05
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 250
| buildDepth = 210
| buildHeight = 220
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = FLsun v400
| image = Flsun v400.jpg
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| buildVolume = ⌀300 × 410 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.05
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 300
| buildDepth = 300
| buildHeight = 410
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Stratasys Dimension SST 1200es
| image = Dimension-1200es.jpg
| slicerName = GrabCAD Print
| slicerLink = https://grabcad.com/print
| buildVolume = 254 × 254 × 305 mm
| materials = ABS, Soluble support
| minLayerHeight = 0.254
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 254
| buildDepth = 254
| buildHeight = 305
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Stratasys_Dimension_SST
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Stratasys F170
| image = stratasys-f170.jpg
| slicerName = GrabCAD Print
| slicerLink = https://grabcad.com/print
| buildVolume = 254 × 254 × 254 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, ASA, TPU, Soluble support
| minLayerHeight = 0.127
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 254
| buildDepth = 254
| buildHeight = 254
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra
| image = Saturn-4-Ultra.webp
| slicerName = ChituBox
| slicerLink = https://www.chitubox.com/en/download/chitubox-free
| buildVolume = 218.88 x 122.88 x 220 mm
| materials = Standard, ABS-like, plant based, water-washable, rubber, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 218.88
| buildDepth = 122.88
| buildHeight = 220
}}



Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

[[Tutorial-3D printing with resin|'''<u>If you need a quick tutorial on how to use the resin printer at the Makerspace, click on this link.</u>''']]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing|Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing]] ==
<youtube>Jj2cx4nQ3IE</youtube>

=== Burn Hazard ===
Since FDM 3D printers melt materials, these carry an important burn hazard. Refrain from touching the 3D printer nozzle (200°C and hotter) and build plate (60°C and hotter). Hot parts are typically labelled on machines, but it can happen for the labelling to become worn down, and such it is important for you to know of these hazards so you may protect yourself against them.

=== Respiratory Hazard ===
It has been reported that materials melted by FDM printers can release harmful airborne particulates. It is important to use 3D printers in well ventilated areas or to use printers equipped with an air extractor. Air quality measurements of our Makerspace (STEM 107) have been professionally taken with 24 Ultimaker 2+ printers running for extended periods of time (as would be the case on a very busy day at the Makerspace). Thanks to proper ventilation of the space, the particulate concentration measured is well below regulatory limits.

=== Fire Hazard ===
Since the 3D printing process involves lots of heat and plastics, most of which are flammable, if the plastic being used runs out or accumulates around the printer nozzle and the temperature sensors limiting the nozzle temperature malfunctions, the printer could catch fire from overheating. This is why unsupervised (such as overnight) printing is prohibited on printers that have no shutoff mechanisms that would avoid conditions that may lead to the printer catching fire.

=== Pinch Hazard ===
Since printers have exposed moving parts, and the movements of the print head can be unexpected, the printers present a pinch hazard. Avoid introducing body parts close to a printer's moving parts.

=== Bodily Harm Hazard ===
''<u>While bodily harm hazards are not applicable to the small FDM printers in our Makerspace</u>'', they may be very real on larger printers where the drive mechanisms are very powerful to account for fast and accurate movements of a heavy print head. As a general rule when working with industrial machinery, please refrain from introducing any parts of your body within the range of movement of the print head or near exposed moving parts of machinery while it is powered on.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
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There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
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Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

File:M4ks.webp

2025-10-20T18:56:26Z

Jboud030:

File:Saturn-4-Ultra.webp

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Jboud030:

Saturn 4 Ultra machine

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2025-10-20T18:47:42Z

Jboud030:

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings.

If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

'''<u>[[Digital technologies/3D printing/Tutorial: How to 3D print|If you only need a quick refresher, or you want to 3D print something without going into depth in the subject matter, you can find a tutorial by clicking here.]]</u>'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
[[File:FDM Printing Process.png|thumb|Image showing how material is laid down in layers to build up a 3D object in the FDM printing process.<ref>Gringer (Wikipedia User, 2018). Fused Filament Fabrication. Wikipedia. Accessed 2022-07-25 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication</ref>|alt=]]
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>|alt=|thumb]]

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1000x1000px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Prusa MK4S
| image = mk4s.jpg
| slicerName = PrusaSlicer
| slicerLink = https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/
| materials = PLA, PETG, Flex, PVA, PC, ABS, ASA, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.05
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 250
| buildDepth = 210
| buildHeight = 220
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = FLsun v400
| image = Flsun v400.jpg
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| buildVolume = ⌀300 × 410 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.05
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 300
| buildDepth = 300
| buildHeight = 410
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Stratasys Dimension SST 1200es
| image = Dimension-1200es.jpg
| slicerName = GrabCAD Print
| slicerLink = https://grabcad.com/print
| buildVolume = 254 × 254 × 305 mm
| materials = ABS, Soluble support
| minLayerHeight = 0.254
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 254
| buildDepth = 254
| buildHeight = 305
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Stratasys_Dimension_SST
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Stratasys F170
| image = stratasys-f170.jpg
| slicerName = GrabCAD Print
| slicerLink = https://grabcad.com/print
| buildVolume = 254 × 254 × 254 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, ASA, TPU, Soluble support
| minLayerHeight = 0.127
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 254
| buildDepth = 254
| buildHeight = 254
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra
| image = Saturn-4-Ultra
| slicerName = ChituBox
| slicerLink = https://www.chitubox.com/en/download/chitubox-free
| buildVolume = 218.88 x 122.88 x 220 mm
| materials = Standard, ABS-like, plant based, water-washable, rubber, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 218.88
| buildDepth = 122.88
| buildHeight = 220
}}



Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

[[Tutorial-3D printing with resin|'''<u>If you need a quick tutorial on how to use the resin printer at the Makerspace, click on this link.</u>''']]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing|Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing]] ==
<youtube>Jj2cx4nQ3IE</youtube>

=== Burn Hazard ===
Since FDM 3D printers melt materials, these carry an important burn hazard. Refrain from touching the 3D printer nozzle (200°C and hotter) and build plate (60°C and hotter). Hot parts are typically labelled on machines, but it can happen for the labelling to become worn down, and such it is important for you to know of these hazards so you may protect yourself against them.

=== Respiratory Hazard ===
It has been reported that materials melted by FDM printers can release harmful airborne particulates. It is important to use 3D printers in well ventilated areas or to use printers equipped with an air extractor. Air quality measurements of our Makerspace (STEM 107) have been professionally taken with 24 Ultimaker 2+ printers running for extended periods of time (as would be the case on a very busy day at the Makerspace). Thanks to proper ventilation of the space, the particulate concentration measured is well below regulatory limits.

=== Fire Hazard ===
Since the 3D printing process involves lots of heat and plastics, most of which are flammable, if the plastic being used runs out or accumulates around the printer nozzle and the temperature sensors limiting the nozzle temperature malfunctions, the printer could catch fire from overheating. This is why unsupervised (such as overnight) printing is prohibited on printers that have no shutoff mechanisms that would avoid conditions that may lead to the printer catching fire.

=== Pinch Hazard ===
Since printers have exposed moving parts, and the movements of the print head can be unexpected, the printers present a pinch hazard. Avoid introducing body parts close to a printer's moving parts.

=== Bodily Harm Hazard ===
''<u>While bodily harm hazards are not applicable to the small FDM printers in our Makerspace</u>'', they may be very real on larger printers where the drive mechanisms are very powerful to account for fast and accurate movements of a heavy print head. As a general rule when working with industrial machinery, please refrain from introducing any parts of your body within the range of movement of the print head or near exposed moving parts of machinery while it is powered on.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
<youtube>sumwQ-b_jlc</youtube>

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
<youtube>uKsou-GEzt0</youtube>

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2025-10-20T18:37:17Z

Jboud030:

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings.

If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

'''<u>[[Digital technologies/3D printing/Tutorial: How to 3D print|If you only need a quick refresher, or you want to 3D print something without going into depth in the subject matter, you can find a tutorial by clicking here.]]</u>'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
[[File:FDM Printing Process.png|thumb|Image showing how material is laid down in layers to build up a 3D object in the FDM printing process.<ref>Gringer (Wikipedia User, 2018). Fused Filament Fabrication. Wikipedia. Accessed 2022-07-25 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication</ref>|alt=]]
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>|alt=|thumb]]

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1000x1000px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Prusa MK4S
| image = mk4s.png
| slicerName = PrusaSlicer
| slicerLink = https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/
| materials = PLA, PETG, Flex, PVA, PC, ABS, ASA, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.05
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 250
| buildDepth = 210
| buildHeight = 220
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = FLsun v400
| image = Flsun v400.jpg
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| buildVolume = ⌀300 × 410 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.05
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 300
| buildDepth = 300
| buildHeight = 410
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Stratasys Dimension SST 1200es
| image = Dimension-1200es.jpg
| slicerName = GrabCAD Print
| slicerLink = https://grabcad.com/print
| buildVolume = 254 × 254 × 305 mm
| materials = ABS, Soluble support
| minLayerHeight = 0.254
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 254
| buildDepth = 254
| buildHeight = 305
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Stratasys_Dimension_SST
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Stratasys F170
| image = stratasys-f170.jpg
| slicerName = GrabCAD Print
| slicerLink = https://grabcad.com/print
| buildVolume = 254 × 254 × 254 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, ASA, TPU, Soluble support
| minLayerHeight = 0.127
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 254
| buildDepth = 254
| buildHeight = 254
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra
| image = Saturn-4-Ultra.jpg
| slicerName = ChituBox
| slicerLink = https://www.chitubox.com/en/download/chitubox-free
| buildVolume = 218.88 x 122.88 x 220 mm
| materials = Standard, ABS-like, plant based, water-washable, rubber, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 218.88
| buildDepth = 122.88
| buildHeight = 220
}}



Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

[[Tutorial-3D printing with resin|'''<u>If you need a quick tutorial on how to use the resin printer at the Makerspace, click on this link.</u>''']]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing|Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing]] ==
<youtube>Jj2cx4nQ3IE</youtube>

=== Burn Hazard ===
Since FDM 3D printers melt materials, these carry an important burn hazard. Refrain from touching the 3D printer nozzle (200°C and hotter) and build plate (60°C and hotter). Hot parts are typically labelled on machines, but it can happen for the labelling to become worn down, and such it is important for you to know of these hazards so you may protect yourself against them.

=== Respiratory Hazard ===
It has been reported that materials melted by FDM printers can release harmful airborne particulates. It is important to use 3D printers in well ventilated areas or to use printers equipped with an air extractor. Air quality measurements of our Makerspace (STEM 107) have been professionally taken with 24 Ultimaker 2+ printers running for extended periods of time (as would be the case on a very busy day at the Makerspace). Thanks to proper ventilation of the space, the particulate concentration measured is well below regulatory limits.

=== Fire Hazard ===
Since the 3D printing process involves lots of heat and plastics, most of which are flammable, if the plastic being used runs out or accumulates around the printer nozzle and the temperature sensors limiting the nozzle temperature malfunctions, the printer could catch fire from overheating. This is why unsupervised (such as overnight) printing is prohibited on printers that have no shutoff mechanisms that would avoid conditions that may lead to the printer catching fire.

=== Pinch Hazard ===
Since printers have exposed moving parts, and the movements of the print head can be unexpected, the printers present a pinch hazard. Avoid introducing body parts close to a printer's moving parts.

=== Bodily Harm Hazard ===
''<u>While bodily harm hazards are not applicable to the small FDM printers in our Makerspace</u>'', they may be very real on larger printers where the drive mechanisms are very powerful to account for fast and accurate movements of a heavy print head. As a general rule when working with industrial machinery, please refrain from introducing any parts of your body within the range of movement of the print head or near exposed moving parts of machinery while it is powered on.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
<youtube>sumwQ-b_jlc</youtube>

There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
<youtube>uKsou-GEzt0</youtube>

Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Digital technologies

2025-10-14T15:04:56Z

Jboud030:

Below you can find sections of different digital technologies, based on their level.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing|3D printing resources]]==
Modern printing technology has enabled the accurate printing of nearly any shape in a wide variety of materials, with many different printing methods to choose from. Selecting a print method will depend on the application, material, and budget used. Materials vary from almost any metal alloy, thermoplastics, ceramics, paper, edibles, rubbers, and clay. Printing methods include extrusion (heating material and forcing through a nozzle), powder bed (placing powdered material and using adhesive or melting to attach), and light polymerized (using UV light to polymerize material on a build plate). 3D Printers utilize an onboard controller to control the printer head and build plate in order to print each 2D layer in the right order and position. In addition, most 3D printers have downloadable software (slicers) that allows a user to position a 3D model on a virtual build platform, as well as adjust the printer’s settings for the build before sending the data to the printer. These 3D models used by the software can be generated using [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|CAD (computer-aided design)]] methods, laser scanning, or photogrammetry, although CAD is typically used in conjunction with the latter two to refine the output from these methods.

'''For our recommended printer profiles click [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Recommended Cura Profiles|here]].'''

===3D printing===

*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner|3D Printing- Beginner]]
**Basic understanding of 3D printing and 3D printers
**Ability to slice and start a print on an Ultimaker 2+ printer
**Basic ability to troubleshoot a print
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|3D Printing- Intermediate]]
**Basic understanding of custom slicer settings and print orientation
**Basic understanding of print post processing
**Basic understanding of dual extrusion prints
**Basic understanding of different slicer software
**Intermediate understanding of printer functions
**Intermediate troubleshooting abilities
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Advanced|3D Printing- Advanced]]
**Ability to use all materials available at the Makerspace
**Ability to use all Makerspace printers
**Ability to print large components (print optimizations)
**Advanced understanding of 3D printing extrusion
**Proficient with UM2+ settings

===3D modeling (for 3D printing)===

*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|3D modeling- Beginner]]
**Basic knowledge of 3D modelling in TinkerCAD
**Basic knowledge of model modifications in TinkerCAD
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate|3D modeling- Intermediate]]
**Proficient 3D modelling skills in TinkerCAD
**Basic ability in parametric CAD modelling softwares
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced|3D modeling- Advanced]]
**Subdividing large models for 3D printing
**Basic understanding of one or more modelling softwares
**Basic understanding of 3D scanning and Scan to CAD

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser cutting resources]]==
Laser cutting uses a high-powered beam to cut material based on computer-controlled parameters. As the laser guides its beam along the material, everything in its direct path is vaporized, burned or melted. One of the benefits of laser cutting technology is the cut product rarely needs any finishing work as this process ensures a high-quality surface finish. A graphics software is used to import or create designs that are meant to be cut.

===Laser cutting===

*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner|Laser Cutting- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Intermediate|Laser Cutting- Intermediate]]
*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving|Rotary Laser Engraving]]

===Vector graphics editor===

*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Beginner|Vector Graphics- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate|Vector Graphics- Intermediate]]

==[[Digital technologies/Arduino|Arduino resources]]==
Arduino is an open-source electronics platform that provides an easy and accessible way to make robotics projects. The boards can receive input signals from sensors and produce outputs through its I/O pins. Arduino boards are used by a diverse set of people, including students, hobbyists, engineers, researchers due to the simple layout and programmability of the Arduino boards.

*[[Digital technologies/Arduino/Arduino- Beginner|Arduino- Beginner]]
** Basic understanding of programming
** Ability to control few components such as LEDs
** Basic understanding of how sensors work
** Basic understanding of the Arduino board

==[[Digital technologies/Soldering|Soldering resources]]==
Soldering allows you to create permanent/semi-permanent connection in any electrical circuit, this makes it ideal for later iterations of a project!
*[[Digital technologies/Soldering/Soldering- Beginner|Soldering- Beginner]]

==[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality|Virtual reality resources]]==

*[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality/Virtual reality- Beginner|Virtual Reality- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality/Unity Project Resources|Unity Project Resources]]

==[[Digital technologies/Textiles|Textile resources]]==

*[[Digital technologies/Textiles/Embroidery- Beginner|Embroidery- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Textiles/3D printing on Fabric|3D printing on Fabric]]
*[[Digital technologies/Textiles/Die-cutting using Cricut|Die-cutting using Cricut]]
*[[Digital technologies/Textiles/How to use the Heat Press|How to use the Heat Press]]

==Other resources==

*[[Digital technologies/Raspberry Pi|Raspberry Pi]]
*[[Digital technologies/PCB milling machine|PCB milling machine]]
*[[Digital technologies/Vacuum Forming|Vacuum Forming]]
*[[Digital technologies/3D Scanning|3D Scanning]]

Digital technologies/3D printing/Recommended Cura Profiles

2025-10-14T15:04:21Z

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Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Recommended Cura Profiles

2025-10-14T15:04:21Z

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Recommended Cura Profiles:

0.25mm:

https://github.com/Kax429/Cura-Profiles/blob/main/Ultimaker2%2B0.25.curaprofile

0.4 mm:

https://github.com/Kax429/Cura-Profiles/blob/main/Ultimaker2%2B0.4.curaprofile

0.6mm:

https://github.com/Kax429/Cura-Profiles/blob/main/Ultimaker2%2B0.6.curaprofile

0.8mm:

https://github.com/Kax429/Cura-Profiles/blob/main/Ultimaker2%2B0.8.curaprofile

Here is more information on print profiles and how to import them: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667411286867

Digital Technologies/3D Printing/Recommended Cura Profiles

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Recommended Cura Profiles

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#REDIRECT [[Digital Technologies/3D Printing/Recommended Cura Profiles]]

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Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Recommended Cura Profiles

2025-10-14T15:00:18Z

Jboud030:

Professional development/Project management/Refund Guide

2025-08-23T18:10:03Z

Jboud030:

If you are doing a project for GNG (or CEED) you can get a refund for the materials you have purchased.

==Conditions==
'''Please note''' that there are 2 main conditions you have to fulfill to receive your refund:

*Have a completed makerepo submission:
**All design files (project dependent)
***3D CAD files (onshape projects, solidworks parts and assemblies, STLs, etc)
***2D vector files (CAD drawings, inkscape files, etc)
***Mechanical assemblies (hand drawn, CAD assembly, etc)
***Circuit assemblies (hand drawn, tinkercad circuits, etc)
***Code (in text format, not a picture)
***Make sure any links have the correct sharing permissions
**User manual (includes BOM with appropriate links and assembly/usage instructions)
***
*Bring back the project (if applicable) and any extra materials that were bought but not used in the prototype

==Guidelines==
===Receipts===

*The receipt needs to be in the same name as the person requesting the refund
*The receipt needs to include a payment method (cash, mastercard, etc), these are usually receipts labeled as invoices
**If it does not then a credit card statement is needed as proof of payment
*Anything paid other then Canadian currency needs to be accompanied by a credit card statement
*If a receipt is lost there is a lost receipt form that can be submitted: https://uottawa.sharepoint.com/sites/CentreforEntrepreneurshipandEngineeringDesign/_layouts/15/guestaccess.aspx?share=EUCKUM_a2ptInWHt7G-s8KkBfGnQsx-nuyXmm1Zsbcf8Zw&e=qvHLFH

===Form===
Receipts need to be included with the following reimbursement form, only the yellow areas need to be filled. Download the file and fill it on your computer.

*Vendor ID= your student number
*Name= your name
*Address= current address. The address should be written properly. The example below would be the address for Makerlab 1:
119-150 Louis-Pasteur Private
Ottawa ON K1N 6N5
You may use the [https://www.canadapost-postescanada.ca/info/mc/personal/postalcode/fpc.jsf Canada Post Website] to obtain the proper format for your address.
*Each receipt is 1 line in the table, the description includes the name of the store
**For example: the first line can be 'Amazon- DC motor' and the second could be 'Home depot- screws and brackets'
*Sub-total= the sub-total of the receipt without taxes, it can include shipping
*Tax total= only the tax amount of the receipt
*Total amount= sub-total + tax total
*Authorized signature is you, approved signature is the lab manager
*Remarks= course + group number + short description of project
**For example: GNG2101 A1- device to automatically brake a wheelchair if a user gets up

Send the form and receipts to your project manager, submitted in 1 PDF document with multiple pages. They will then get sent to the lab manager.
<pdf width="1000" height="1000">File:Reqforpayment_fillable.pdf</pdf>

==Payment==
The previously mentioned conditions need to be completed and verified before a refund can be processed. The refund form and receipts must also be complete.
'''Please note''' that it can take up to 2+ months to get the refund.

The payment will be made by direct deposit so we also need a void cheque and the following form (if you are not already in the system). You only need to send this form to your project manager, not the email mentioned below.
<pdf width="1000" height="1000">File:Direct deposit_person_fillable.pdf</pdf>

Digital technologies/3D Scanning

2025-08-20T12:54:45Z

Jboud030:

== Introduction ==
3D scanning is the technology of creating a 3D mesh from some mix of scanning techniques. Most 3D scanners use structured light or laser triangulation to scan what they see and use photogrammetry to create the 3D mesh by combining all the 2D scans together. The mesh can be used to create 3D models of various things and applications. For example, scanning a limb to create a custom prosthetic or scanning components to design a custom case, etc. At the makerspace we have the EinScan Pro X2020 which uses laser triangulation to take 2D scans of an object, and its paired with the EinScan software which complies everything together. Both require the other to work properly but the raw scan files can be imported to other post-processing software as needed.
[[File:Shining 3D software.png|center|400x600px|Shining 3D software|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Shining 3D software</div>

== Applications of 3D scanning ==
[[File:3D scanning.png|center|200x200px|3D scanning|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. 3D scanning</div>
3D scanning is a revolutionary technology which can be used on a day-to-day basis where you can easily scan a part, convert it to a CAD model and make necessary adjustments if required. Does a certain part not fit perfectly to an assembly? Just do a quick scan of that part, convert it to a CAD model, and resize it to perfection.

3D scanning has become increasingly popular in reverse engineering, which can be employed to make a 3D model of an existing part. Reverse engineering is beneficial in many ways since it helps to examine older creations and inspire novel ideas based on them, by designing the CAD model.

Elsewhere, 3D scanning is an efficient tool when prototyping, where you can quickly obtain the dimensions of a 3D object and, hence, create other prototypes. 3D scanning is thus a great tool to work with for research purposes.

Nowadays, 3D scanning is a technology present in numerous industries such as in the space industry, to scan space rocks, in the construction industry for quality control and entertainment industry, mostly used in virtual cinematography.

== How does it work? ==
The EinScan Pro x2020 can be used in a few ways. There's the fixed scan mode, where the scanner remains stationary, and the object is rotated in front of it to get all the sides.

[[File:Fixed scan.gif|center|300x400px|Fixed Scan|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Fixed scan</div>

Or it can be used in handheld mode, with the scanner being moved around the object and the object remaining stationary.
[[File:Hand-held scan.gif|center|300x400px|Hand-held Scan|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Hand-held scan</div>

Either way, the software will take all those pictures and create point clouds which can be used to create a 3D mesh of the object. Within the scanning software, light post processing can be done to modify the mesh as needed before exporting it as whatever file type is needed for the next step in the process. This step varies depending on what you are trying to do with the 3D scan.

Handheld scanning is more useful when the object to be scanned is too big to fit the turntable or has complicated features. The following video indicates in what cases the hand-held scanner will be more practical.

<youtube>4oqg8TN6iM8</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oqg8TN6iM8&list=PLtJFjqd-EnwsIY9f_yBUEmPIhTMbMkin0&index=22</ref>

== Files Types ==
3D scanning by default creates point clouds when scanning. Point clouds are a collection of data points in space, together forming an object. These point clouds are then connected to create a mesh. The raw point clouds can be brought into other software's for post processing, but normally the resulting mesh is the file that is imported and exported between software's. However, directly from the EinScan software, as well as most 3<sup>rd</sup> party software's, the mesh can be exported as other file types like .asc, .stl, .ply, .obj, .3mf and more. For example, to directly print the model it should be exported as an .stl. However if more post processing was to be done or modified in another CAD(computer-aided design) software it could be exported as a .3mf file.
[[File: Exporting file for post-processing.png|center|400x600px|Exporting file for post-processing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Exporting file for post-processing</div>

== 3D Scanning in MakerSpace ==
===Our 3D scanner===
The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 handheld scanner has a scan area of 150 × 120 mm—250 × 200 mm and works at a minimum point distance of 0.2 mm. It can catch accurate details of either small and medium-sized objects: from 3 to 100 cm in tripod mode and from 30 to 100 cm when handheld.
[[File: The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 .png|center|300x500px|The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5.EinScan Pro 2X 2020</div>

<u>Specifications of the scanner</u>

The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.

<youtube>Ek6Dgay6t1U</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek6Dgay6t1U</ref>

<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Table 1. Other specs of the scanner</div>
{| class="wikitable"
|+ Other specifications of the scanner
! scope="col" |Spec
! scope="col" |Handheld HD Scan Mode
! scope="col" |Handheld Rapid Scan Mode
! scope="col" |Fixed Scan Mode with Turntable
! scope="col" |Fixed Scan Mode w/o Turntable
|-
|Single Scan accuracy
|up to 0.045 mm
|up to 0.1 mm
|0.4 mm
|0.4 mm
|-
|Scan speed
|up to 10 fps;
up to 3,000,000 points per second
|up to 30 fps;
up to 1,500,000 points per second
|<1s
|<1s
|-
|Point distance
|0.2-2mm
|0.2-2mm
|0.16mm
|0.16mm
|-
|Align modes
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
(for complex geometric objects)
|Turntable coded targets
alignment, markers, feature, manual alignment
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
|-
|Full-color scan
|No
|Yes
(Requires a Color Pack add-on)
|
|
|}

Generally, in the Makerspace, doing a 3D scan consists of choosing a scan type, preparing the scan in the software, prepping the object itself, and scanning the object. The resulting scan can be cleaned up at a basic level in the EinScan software and then exported to a stronger post-processing software for further processing.

[[File:3D scanning cycle .png|center|300x500px|3D scanning cycle |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. 3D scanning cycle</div>

=== Choosing Scan type ===
When the EinScan software is opened, a scanning method must be chosen. Either fixed or handheld.

[[File:Choosing scan type .png|center|400x600px|Choosing scan type |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Choosing scan type</div>

A Fixed scan keeps the scanner stationary while the object is rotated on the supplied rotating plate. A Handheld scan keeps the object stationary, and it is the scanner that gets moved around to capture multiple scans from different angles. For smaller objects the Fixed mode should be used whereas for larger objects, the handheld mode should be used.

The following video(in French) demonstrates an example of using rapid scan.<youtube>6VCepo4NkLQ</youtube>

Furthermore, there's handheld HD scan and handheld Rapid scan. The rapid scan captures less points per second but captures more scans per second so it will create a lower quality but more complete scan faster than the HD scan.

Overall, they are used in the same way. Stationary object, moving scanner.

===Selecting Texture===
After choosing a scan type, you will be prompted to select the scan's texture. The following picture demonstrates the dialog box that appears if you have selected Fixed scan. A non-texture scan will focus mainly on the object shape and will be grayscale or have a neutral color, while a texture scan will also bear the colors and other details of the scanned object as well as the shape.
[[File:Selecting texture for fixed scan .png|center|400x600px|Selecting texture for fixed scan |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Selecting texture for fixed scan </div>

The open global markers file will be addressed more in depth in Align mode->Global markers section.

If handheld scan was chosen, the following dialog box will appear. For Texture, it is similar to fixed scan, that is if you want to focus solely on the shape of the object select non-texture scan and select texture scan for objects that you would like to capture the details. While for mode of alignment, hybrid is using both markers and features present on the object to detect and scan the object.
[[File:Selecting texture for handheld scan .png|center|400x600px|Selecting texture for handheld scan |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Selecting texture for handheld scan </div>

=== Turntable settings ===
During a fixed scan, the object is placed on a turntable that automatically rotates so that the scanner can capture multiples scans from different angles. The number of steps in the full rotation is user set when prepping the scan. A smaller number of steps takes less time but may result in rougher scan quality (as it has less individual scans to take so less data to use). A higher number of steps will take longer but increase the quality of the scan (as there are more scans to help piece together the overall 3D mesh). A good rule of thumb is to start low around 6-10 and increase the steps as needed if the quality of the scan is too low.

When setting up a object on the turntable, make sure the object is centered on the turn table and is fully viewed by the preview of the scanner. Also verify that is it properly supported to the turntable and that it won’t slip as it turns. If it will, use some sticky tack to temporarily stick the object down.

Also, make sure that the object is placed in the scanner field by checking what is shown on the software camera when you are moving the object. Ensure that the + sign is aligned with the center if the turntable and place the object in the center as well. The following picture demonstrates how the scanner is aligned to the center of the turntable, ensure that the + sign is inside or close to the red box.
[[File:Scanner field of view .png|center|1000x400px|Scanner field of view]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Scanner field of view</div>

====Align mode====
<u>Turntable coded targets</u>

Recommended for objects that fit the turntable and that you would prefer not to have targets on the actual object. This option makes the scanner detect common markers on turntable to calculate the object’s new location as the turntable rotates.

This alignment mode makes it unnecessary to have markers on the object and also if it happens that the distance between the camera and the turntable fluctuates, you are not required to recalibrate the scanner.

<u>Features</u>

For an object that is too big for the turntable, and you would not be able to use markers, the features alignment method should be chosen. In this case, the software recognizes features on three consecutive early scans and then calculates the distance between the scanner and the turntable.

When choosing this option, ensure that the object is in a stable position on the turntable and the primary view has enough features to start the scanning process. Plain objects without striking features would not be recommended to be scanned with this alignment mode.

<u>Markers</u>

Markers are used when the camera cannot detect the targets found on the turntable. You should use stickers or marker dots on the object. See Prepare the Object->Markers for more information.

<u>Global markers</u>

This option is quite similar to using markers as an alignment method. When creating a new project, import a file with the global markers, known as global registration file or a .p3 file, which can be saved from a previous project using fixed scan mode or hand-held mode.

When choosing the markers or global markers align mode, you will be required to stick an adequate number of markers to ensure that the scanner can match consecutive scans, if some markers have already been scanned and imported. It may be required to increase the turntable steps to ensure that the scanner follows these consecutive scans, and also to be sure that the scanner detects the markers.

=== HDR (High Dynamic Range) Settings ===
The HDR (high dynamic range) settings alter the level of contrast that the scanner will use to detect an object as it flashes light during the scans. A lower HDR won’t pick up as much contrasting details. There is a preview in the program that shows what will most likely get picked up shown in red that can be used to ensure the object being scanned is properly captured. In short, if there are more colors, a higher HDR should be chosen to ensure they all get properly scanned.

===Prepare the Object===
====Reflectiveness====
Some materials are too reflective or too dark to properly be scanned. They either bounce off too much of the light, even at low HDR settings, or still absorb too much light, even at high HDR settings.
In either case, to combat this, the object can be dusted off with some talc powder. The talc powder helps balance out the reflective properties of the material, from extreme to extreme.
To prepare a reflective object to scan, you should first use a brush to cover its surface with talc powder.
Use the talc and brush found in the cabinet at the 3D scanning setup and apply a layer of talc powder on the object, make sure that the object shows up on the software once the talc powder has been applied.
The following picture demonstrates how a reflective object appears in a scanner field of view. Since, it is not shaded in red, it means that the scanner could not detect the object and hence the turntable appears empty.

[[File: 3D Scan of a reflective object .png|center|400x700px|3D Scan of a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. 3D Scan of a reflective object</div>

The following animation depicts how to reduce an object reflectiveness by adding talc.

[[File: Adding talc to a reflective object.gif|center|200x400px|Adding talc to a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Adding talc to a reflective object</div>

Now, as seen in the picture below, the key is shaded red, hence indicating that the scanner can detect the object.

[[File: 3D Scan of a reflective object with talc applied.png|center|400x700px|3D Scan of a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. 3D Scan of a reflective object</div>

====Markers====
If you are planning to take multiple scans (explained below) or are scanning on an object with large flat surfaces, simple geometry, or otherwise not enough features on it, it can be helpful to add temporary markers on the object to aid in aligning the scans.
Some examples would be small stickers or marker dots/markings as shown in the following picture:

[[File:Markers.png|center|400x600px|Markers]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Markers</div>
The following example shows an example where markers are useful. The object shown is dark, has some parts which are reflective and a variety of features. The markers helped to detect the chair back and seat, but for the reflective part in the middle, the markers were not enough, and hence talc was applied to help the scanner detect this part.

[[File:Markers on chair.png|center|400x600px|Markers on chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15. Markers on chair</div>

The result obtained is shown below:

[[File:3D scan of chair with markers.png|center|400x600px|3D scan of chair with markers]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 16. 3D scan of chair with markers</div>
The following video gives a more in-depth explanation of using markers before scanning an object.

<youtube>0gVSCrC0YZ4</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gVSCrC0YZ4</ref>

===Taking a scan===

Once the settings have been set up and the object is ready to be scanned, the scan can be started by pressing the start scan in the top right corner.

[[File:Starting a scan.png|center|300x500px|Starting a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 17. Starting a scan</div>

During a fixed scan, do not move the scanner or object. Once the rotations are complete, you can clean up the scan and move on. During a handheld scan, do not move the object and use the onscreen display to make sure you are within the correct scanning distance.

[[File:Preview of a scan.png|center|400x600px|Preview of a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 18. Preview of a scan</div>

===Immediately Cleaning up a scan===
Once the scan is complete, there is an initial option to roughly clean up the scan. This is a quick chance to manually get rid of the obvious “noise” picked up by the scan like the turn table, other objects in your scan that are not the target object etc. To get rid of these portions of a scan use the tools available to circle the noise and delete it. The scan can be rotated to get to every angle.

To remove unwanted features of a scanned object, hold the Shift key and use the left button of the mouse to select unwanted pieces and click on Delete.

Once a part is selected, it should appear in red as shown below:

[[File:Selecting unwanted parts.png|center|400x600px|Selecting unwanted parts]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 19. Selecting unwanted parts</div>

===Watertight and Unwatertight model===
After a scan, you can generate data points and then select mesh model to generate a 3D model. You will be prompted to select Watertight or Unwatertight model. A Watertight object is an object that is completely sealed, and no gaps are present, select this option if you have scanned an object in all directions.If Watertight is chosen for an object that was not scanned enough in all directions, the software would try to create the missing parts that were not scanned to complete the seal and hence compromising with the object actual structure.

[[File:Watertight and Unwatertight model.png|center|400x600px|Watertight and Unwatertight model]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Watertight and Unwatertight model</div>
The following demonstrates what happen if you select watertight model and not scanning enough to generate the complete object.
[[File:Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned.png|center|300x500px|Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned</div>
The chair was only scanned on the top, hence Unwatertight was chosen to make sure that the scanned model represents the actual object to a tee.

[[File:Unwatertight model of chair.png|center|400x600px|Unwatertight model of chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 21. Unwatertight model of chair</div>
After creating a mesh model, the model below is obtained. More post-processing tools such as removing holes and sharpening are found on the right.

[[File:Mesh model of chair.png|center|400x600px|Mesh model of chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 22. Mesh model of chair</div>

===Taking multiple scans===
Sometimes, 1 scan is not enough. Multiple scans might be needed to fully capture the details of an object. For example, if the base of an object has geometry that is hidden when it is lying flat. In this case, a second scan, with the object in a different orientation, would be needed to capture those hidden geometries. To take another scan, create another project within the same group and then do the same cleaning process as the first scan before aligning the 2 scans into 1.

====Aligning multiple scans====
To align multiple scans, the align feature can do it automatically, or the user can set 3 points on both scans that are the same to align the scans. Unless the object being scanned is very distinct, manual points should usually be used to align the scans. Once aligned, the mesh should be more complete.

As previously mentioned in preparing the object, temporary markers like small dot stickers or marker dots can also be added to aid in finding manual points to align the scans.

The following video depicts a project requiring two scans and aligning them afterwards.

<youtube>2VSr0DJVaxA</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VSr0DJVaxA</ref>

===Exporting the scan===
Once scanning is done, the mesh can be exported in a few different file types, such as.asc,.stl,. ply,.obj,.3mf. These can then be brought into other post-processing software to manipulate and dimension further, or even directly into fabrication software to 3D print, for example.

To export a scan, select the save icon found on the right as shown below.
[[File: Exporting a scan.png|center|400x600px|Exporting a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 23. Exporting a scan</div>

===Post-Processing in other software===
In Makerspace, there is the software GeoMagic that lets the user import a mesh. In GeoMagic, the user can manipulate the mesh with more control and dimension to make sure it is the correct size. GeoMagic can also help in ensuring a complete mesh by filling in any missing areas of the scan or replacing shapes of the mesh. Its only drawback is that it is not free, so if you are not in the Makerspace, you cannot use GeoMagic.
However, there are various free, open-source mesh editors that do similar functions. For example, Meshlabs. MeshLabs is open source and free to download. It has similar capabilities to GeoMagic including dimensioning known shapes, cleaning up the mesh and optimizing the numbers of polygons, as well as making it a watertight mesh.
The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.

[[File:Geomagic Wrap.png|center|400x600px|Geomagic Wrap|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 24. Geomagic Wrap</div>

The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.<br>
<youtube>Ek6Dgay6t1U</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek6Dgay6t1U</ref>

=References=

Digital technologies/3D Scanning

2025-08-20T12:53:31Z

Jboud030:

== Introduction ==
3D scanning is the technology of creating a 3D mesh from some mix of scanning techniques. Most 3D scanners use structured light or laser triangulation to scan what they see and use photogrammetry to create the 3D mesh by combining all the 2D scans together. The mesh can be used to create 3D models of various things and applications. For example, scanning a limb to create a custom prosthetic or scanning components to design a custom case, etc. At the makerspace we have the EinScan Pro X2020 which uses laser triangulation to take 2D scans of an object, and its paired with the EinScan software which complies everything together. Both require the other to work properly but the raw scan files can be imported to other post-processing software as needed.
[[File:Shining 3D software.png|center|400x600px|Shining 3D software|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Shining 3D software</div>

== Applications of 3D scanning ==
[[File:3D scanning.png|center|200x200px|3D scanning|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. 3D scanning</div>
3D scanning is a revolutionary technology which can be used on a day-to-day basis where you can easily scan a part, convert it to a CAD model and make necessary adjustments if required. Does a certain part not fit perfectly to an assembly? Just do a quick scan of that part, convert it to a CAD model, and resize it to perfection.

3D scanning has become increasingly popular in reverse engineering, which can be employed to make a 3D model of an existing part. Reverse engineering is beneficial in many ways since it helps to examine older creations and inspire novel ideas based on them, by designing the CAD model.

Elsewhere, 3D scanning is an efficient tool when prototyping, where you can quickly obtain the dimensions of a 3D object and, hence, create other prototypes. 3D scanning is thus a great tool to work with for research purposes.

Nowadays, 3D scanning is a technology present in numerous industries such as in the space industry, to scan space rocks, in the construction industry for quality control and entertainment industry, mostly used in virtual cinematography.

== How does it work? ==
The EinScan Pro x2020 can be used in a few ways. There's the fixed scan mode, where the scanner remains stationary, and the object is rotated in front of it to get all the sides.

[[File:Fixed scan.gif|center|300x400px|Fixed Scan|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Fixed scan</div>

Or it can be used in handheld mode, with the scanner being moved around the object and the object remaining stationary.
[[File:Hand-held scan.gif|center|300x400px|Hand-held Scan|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Hand-held scan</div>

Either way, the software will take all those pictures and create point clouds which can be used to create a 3D mesh of the object. Within the scanning software, light post processing can be done to modify the mesh as needed before exporting it as whatever file type is needed for the next step in the process. This step varies depending on what you are trying to do with the 3D scan.

Handheld scanning is more useful when the object to be scanned is too big to fit the turntable or has complicated features. The following video indicates in what cases the hand-held scanner will be more practical.

<youtube>4oqg8TN6iM8</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oqg8TN6iM8&list=PLtJFjqd-EnwsIY9f_yBUEmPIhTMbMkin0&index=22</ref>

== Files Types ==
3D scanning by default creates point clouds when scanning. Point clouds are a collection of data points in space, together forming an object. These point clouds are then connected to create a mesh. The raw point clouds can be brought into other software's for post processing, but normally the resulting mesh is the file that is imported and exported between software's. However, directly from the EinScan software, as well as most 3<sup>rd</sup> party software's, the mesh can be exported as other file types like .asc, .stl, .ply, .obj, .3mf and more. For example, to directly print the model it should be exported as an .stl. However if more post processing was to be done or modified in another CAD(computer-aided design) software it could be exported as a .3mf file.
[[File: Exporting file for post-processing.png|center|400x600px|Exporting file for post-processing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Exporting file for post-processing</div>

== 3D Scanning in MakerSpace ==
===Our 3D scanner===
The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 handheld scanner has a scan area of 150 × 120 mm—250 × 200 mm and works at a minimum point distance of 0.2 mm. It can catch accurate details of either small and medium-sized objects: from 3 to 100 cm in tripod mode and from 30 to 100 cm when handheld.
[[File: The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 .png|center|300x500px|The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5.EinScan Pro 2X 2020</div>

<u>Specifications of the scanner</u>

The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.

<youtube>Ek6Dgay6t1U</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek6Dgay6t1U</ref>

<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Table 1. Other specs of the scanner</div>
{| class="wikitable"
|+ Other specifications of the scanner
! scope="col" |Spec
! scope="col" |Handheld HD Scan Mode
! scope="col" |Handheld Rapid Scan Mode
! scope="col" |Fixed Scan Mode with Turntable
! scope="col" |Fixed Scan Mode w/o Turntable
|-
|Single Scan accuracy
|up to 0.045 mm
|up to 0.1 mm
|0.4 mm
|0.4 mm
|-
|Scan speed
|up to 10 fps;
up to 3,000,000 points per second
|up to 30 fps;
up to 1,500,000 points per second
|<1s
|<1s
|-
|Point distance
|0.2-2mm
|0.2-2mm
|0.16mm
|0.16mm
|-
|Align modes
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
(for complex geometric objects)
|Turntable coded targets
alignment, markers, feature, manual alignment
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
|-
|Full-color scan
|No
|Yes
(Requires a Color Pack add-on)
|
|
|}

Generally, in the Makerspace, doing a 3D scan consists of choosing a scan type, preparing the scan in the software, prepping the object itself, and scanning the object. The resulting scan can be cleaned up at a basic level in the EinScan software and then exported to a stronger post-processing software for further processing.

[[File:3D scanning cycle .png|center|300x500px|3D scanning cycle |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. 3D scanning cycle</div>

=== Choosing Scan type ===
When the EinScan software is opened, a scanning method must be chosen. Either fixed or handheld.

[[File:Choosing scan type .png|center|400x600px|Choosing scan type |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Choosing scan type</div>

A Fixed scan keeps the scanner stationary while the object is rotated on the supplied rotating plate. A Handheld scan keeps the object stationary, and it is the scanner that gets moved around to capture multiple scans from different angles. For smaller objects the Fixed mode should be used whereas for larger objects, the handheld mode should be used.

The following video(in French) demonstrates an example of using rapid scan.<youtube>6VCepo4NkLQ</youtube>

Furthermore, there's handheld HD scan and handheld Rapid scan. The rapid scan captures less points per second but captures more scans per second so it will create a lower quality but more complete scan faster than the HD scan.

Overall, they are used in the same way. Stationary object, moving scanner.

===Selecting Texture===
After choosing a scan type, you will be prompted to select the scan's texture. The following picture demonstrates the dialog box that appears if you have selected Fixed scan. A non-texture scan will focus mainly on the object shape and will be grayscale or have a neutral color, while a texture scan will also bear the colors and other details of the scanned object as well as the shape.
[[File:Selecting texture for fixed scan .png|center|400x600px|Selecting texture for fixed scan |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Selecting texture for fixed scan </div>

The open global markers file will be addressed more in depth in Align mode->Global markers section.

If handheld scan was chosen, the following dialog box will appear. For Texture, it is similar to fixed scan, that is if you want to focus solely on the shape of the object select non-texture scan and select texture scan for objects that you would like to capture the details. While for mode of alignment, hybrid is using both markers and features present on the object to detect and scan the object.
[[File:Selecting texture for handheld scan .png|center|400x600px|Selecting texture for handheld scan |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Selecting texture for handheld scan </div>

=== Turntable settings ===
During a fixed scan, the object is placed on a turntable that automatically rotates so that the scanner can capture multiples scans from different angles. The number of steps in the full rotation is user set when prepping the scan. A smaller number of steps takes less time but may result in rougher scan quality (as it has less individual scans to take so less data to use). A higher number of steps will take longer but increase the quality of the scan (as there are more scans to help piece together the overall 3D mesh). A good rule of thumb is to start low around 6-10 and increase the steps as needed if the quality of the scan is too low.

When setting up a object on the turntable, make sure the object is centered on the turn table and is fully viewed by the preview of the scanner. Also verify that is it properly supported to the turntable and that it won’t slip as it turns. If it will, use some sticky tack to temporarily stick the object down.

Also, make sure that the object is placed in the scanner field by checking what is shown on the software camera when you are moving the object. Ensure that the + sign is aligned with the center if the turntable and place the object in the center as well. The following picture demonstrates how the scanner is aligned to the center of the turntable, ensure that the + sign is inside or close to the red box.
[[File:Scanner field of view .png|center|1000x400px|Scanner field of view]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Scanner field of view</div>

====Align mode====
<u>Turntable coded targets</u>

Recommended for objects that fit the turntable and that you would prefer not to have targets on the actual object. This option makes the scanner detect common markers on turntable to calculate the object’s new location as the turntable rotates.

This alignment mode makes it unnecessary to have markers on the object and also if it happens that the distance between the camera and the turntable fluctuates, you are not required to recalibrate the scanner.

<u>Features</u>

For an object that is too big for the turntable, and you would not be able to use markers, the features alignment method should be chosen. In this case, the software recognizes features on three consecutive early scans and then calculates the distance between the scanner and the turntable.

When choosing this option, ensure that the object is in a stable position on the turntable and the primary view has enough features to start the scanning process. Plain objects without striking features would not be recommended to be scanned with this alignment mode.

<u>Markers</u>

Markers are used when the camera cannot detect the targets found on the turntable. You should use stickers or marker dots on the object. See Prepare the Object->Markers for more information.

<u>Global markers</u>

This option is quite similar to using markers as an alignment method. When creating a new project, import a file with the global markers, known as global registration file or a .p3 file, which can be saved from a previous project using fixed scan mode or hand-held mode.

When choosing the markers or global markers align mode, you will be required to stick an adequate number of markers to ensure that the scanner can match consecutive scans, if some markers have already been scanned and imported. It may be required to increase the turntable steps to ensure that the scanner follows these consecutive scans, and also to be sure that the scanner detects the markers.

=== HDR (High Dynamic Range) Settings ===
The HDR (high dynamic range) settings alter the level of contrast that the scanner will use to detect an object as it flashes light during the scans. A lower HDR won’t pick up as much contrasting details. There is a preview in the program that shows what will most likely get picked up shown in red that can be used to ensure the object being scanned is properly captured. In short, if there are more colors, a higher HDR should be chosen to ensure they all get properly scanned.

===Prepare the Object===
====Reflectiveness====
Some materials are too reflective or too dark to properly be scanned. They either bounce off too much of the light, even at low HDR settings, or still absorb too much light, even at high HDR settings.
In either case, to combat this, the object can be dusted off with some talc powder. The talc powder helps balance out the reflective properties of the material, from extreme to extreme.
To prepare a reflective object to scan, you should first use a brush to cover its surface with talc powder.
Use the talc and brush found in the cabinet at the 3D scanning setup and apply a layer of talc powder on the object, make sure that the object shows up on the software once the talc powder has been applied.
The following picture demonstrates how a reflective object appears in a scanner field of view. Since, it is not shaded in red, it means that the scanner could not detect the object and hence the turntable appears empty.

[[File: 3D Scan of a reflective object .png|center|400x700px|3D Scan of a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. 3D Scan of a reflective object</div>

The following animation depicts how to reduce an object reflectiveness by adding talc.

[[File: Adding talc to a reflective object.gif|center|200x400px|Adding talc to a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Adding talc to a reflective object</div>

Now, as seen in the picture below, the key is shaded red, hence indicating that the scanner can detect the object.

[[File: 3D Scan of a reflective object with talc applied.png|center|400x700px|3D Scan of a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. 3D Scan of a reflective object</div>

====Markers====
If you are planning to take multiple scans (explained below) or are scanning on an object with large flat surfaces, simple geometry, or otherwise not enough features on it, it can be helpful to add temporary markers on the object to aid in aligning the scans.
Some examples would be small stickers or marker dots/markings as shown in the following picture:

[[File:Markers.png|center|400x600px|Markers]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Markers</div>
The following example shows an example where markers are useful. The object shown is dark, has some parts which are reflective and a variety of features. The markers helped to detect the chair back and seat, but for the reflective part in the middle, the markers were not enough, and hence talc was applied to help the scanner detect this part.

[[File:Markers on chair.png|center|400x600px|Markers on chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15. Markers on chair</div>

The result obtained is shown below:

[[File:3D scan of chair with markers.png|center|400x600px|3D scan of chair with markers]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 16. 3D scan of chair with markers</div>
The following video gives a more in-depth explanation of using markers before scanning an object.

<youtube>0gVSCrC0YZ4</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gVSCrC0YZ4</ref>

===Taking a scan===

Once the settings have been set up and the object is ready to be scanned, the scan can be started by pressing the start scan in the top right corner.

[[File:Starting a scan.png|center|300x500px|Starting a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 17. Starting a scan</div>

During a fixed scan, do not move the scanner or object. Once the rotations are complete, you can clean up the scan and move on. During a handheld scan, do not move the object and use the onscreen display to make sure you are within the correct scanning distance.

[[File:Preview of a scan.png|center|400x600px|Preview of a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 18. Preview of a scan</div>

===Immediately Cleaning up a scan===
Once the scan is complete, there is an initial option to roughly clean up the scan. This is a quick chance to manually get rid of the obvious “noise” picked up by the scan like the turn table, other objects in your scan that are not the target object etc. To get rid of these portions of a scan use the tools available to circle the noise and delete it. The scan can be rotated to get to every angle.

To remove unwanted features of a scanned object, hold the Shift key and use the left button of the mouse to select unwanted pieces and click on Delete.

Once a part is selected, it should appear in red as shown below:

[[File:Selecting unwanted parts.png|center|400x600px|Selecting unwanted parts]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 19. Selecting unwanted parts</div>

===Watertight and Unwatertight model===
After a scan, you can generate data points and then select mesh model to generate a 3D model. You will be prompted to select Watertight or Unwatertight model. A Watertight object is an object that is completely sealed, and no gaps are present, select this option if you have scanned an object in all directions.If Watertight is chosen for an object that was not scanned enough in all directions, the software would try to create the missing parts that were not scanned to complete the seal and hence compromising with the object actual structure.

[[File:Watertight and Unwatertight model.png|center|400x600px|Watertight and Unwatertight model]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Watertight and Unwatertight model</div>
The following demonstrates what happen if you select watertight model and not scanning enough to generate the complete object.
[[File:Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned.png|center|300x500px|Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned</div>
The chair was only scanned on the top, hence Unwatertight was chosen to make sure that the scanned model represents the actual object to a tee.

[[File:Unwatertight model of chair.png|center|400x600px|Unwatertight model of chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 21. Unwatertight model of chair</div>
After creating a mesh model, the model below is obtained. More post-processing tools such as removing holes and sharpening are found on the right.

[[File:Mesh model of chair.png|center|400x600px|Mesh model of chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 22. Mesh model of chair</div>

===Taking multiple scans===
Sometimes, 1 scan is not enough. Multiple scans might be needed to fully capture the details of an object. For example, if the base of an object has geometry that is hidden when it is lying flat. In this case, a second scan, with the object in a different orientation, would be needed to capture those hidden geometries. To take another scan, create another project within the same group and then do the same cleaning process as the first scan before aligning the 2 scans into 1.

====Aligning multiple scans====
To align multiple scans, the align feature can do it automatically, or the user can set 3 points on both scans that are the same to align the scans. Unless the object being scanned is very distinct, manual points should usually be used to align the scans. Once aligned, the mesh should be more complete.

As previously mentioned in preparing the object, temporary markers like small dot stickers or marker dots can also be added to aid in finding manual points to align the scans.

The following video depicts a project requiring two scans and aligning them afterwards.

<youtube>2VSr0DJVaxA</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VSr0DJVaxA</ref>

===Exporting the scan===
Once scanning is done, the mesh can be exported in a few different file types, such as.asc,.stl,. ply,.obj,.3mf. These can then be brought into other post-processing software to manipulate and dimension further, or even directly into fabrication software to 3D print, for example.

To export a scan, select the save icon found on the right as shown below.
[[File: Exporting a scan.png|center|400x600px|Exporting a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 23. Exporting a scan</div>

===Post-Processing in other software===
In Makerspace, there is the software GeoMagic that lets the user import a mesh. In GeoMagic, the user can manipulate the mesh with more control and dimension to make sure it is the correct size. GeoMagic can also help in ensuring a complete mesh by filling in any missing areas of the scan or replacing shapes of the mesh. Its only drawback is that it is not free, so if you are not in the Makerspace, you cannot use GeoMagic.
However, there are various free, open-source mesh editors that do similar functions. For example, Meshlabs. MeshLabs is open source and free to download. It has similar capabilities to GeoMagic including dimensioning known shapes, cleaning up the mesh and optimizing the numbers of polygons, as well as making it a watertight mesh.
The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.

[[File:Geomagic Wrap.png|center|400x600px|Geomagic Wrap|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 24. Geomagic Wrap</div>

The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.
<youtube>Ek6Dgay6t1U</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek6Dgay6t1U</ref>

=References=

|}

Digital technologies/3D Scanning

2025-08-20T12:50:55Z

Jboud030:

== Introduction ==
3D scanning is the technology of creating a 3D mesh from some mix of scanning techniques. Most 3D scanners use structured light or laser triangulation to scan what they see and use photogrammetry to create the 3D mesh by combining all the 2D scans together. The mesh can be used to create 3D models of various things and applications. For example, scanning a limb to create a custom prosthetic or scanning components to design a custom case, etc. At the makerspace we have the EinScan Pro X2020 which uses laser triangulation to take 2D scans of an object, and its paired with the EinScan software which complies everything together. Both require the other to work properly but the raw scan files can be imported to other post-processing software as needed.
[[File:Shining 3D software.png|center|400x600px|Shining 3D software|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Shining 3D software</div>

== Applications of 3D scanning ==
[[File:3D scanning.png|center|200x200px|3D scanning|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. 3D scanning</div>
3D scanning is a revolutionary technology which can be used on a day-to-day basis where you can easily scan a part, convert it to a CAD model and make necessary adjustments if required. Does a certain part not fit perfectly to an assembly? Just do a quick scan of that part, convert it to a CAD model, and resize it to perfection.

3D scanning has become increasingly popular in reverse engineering, which can be employed to make a 3D model of an existing part. Reverse engineering is beneficial in many ways since it helps to examine older creations and inspire novel ideas based on them, by designing the CAD model.

Elsewhere, 3D scanning is an efficient tool when prototyping, where you can quickly obtain the dimensions of a 3D object and, hence, create other prototypes. 3D scanning is thus a great tool to work with for research purposes.

Nowadays, 3D scanning is a technology present in numerous industries such as in the space industry, to scan space rocks, in the construction industry for quality control and entertainment industry, mostly used in virtual cinematography.

== How does it work? ==
The EinScan Pro x2020 can be used in a few ways. There's the fixed scan mode, where the scanner remains stationary, and the object is rotated in front of it to get all the sides.

[[File:Fixed scan.gif|center|300x400px|Fixed Scan|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Fixed scan</div>

Or it can be used in handheld mode, with the scanner being moved around the object and the object remaining stationary.
[[File:Hand-held scan.gif|center|300x400px|Hand-held Scan|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Hand-held scan</div>

Either way, the software will take all those pictures and create point clouds which can be used to create a 3D mesh of the object. Within the scanning software, light post processing can be done to modify the mesh as needed before exporting it as whatever file type is needed for the next step in the process. This step varies depending on what you are trying to do with the 3D scan.

Handheld scanning is more useful when the object to be scanned is too big to fit the turntable or has complicated features. The following video indicates in what cases the hand-held scanner will be more practical.

<youtube>4oqg8TN6iM8</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oqg8TN6iM8&list=PLtJFjqd-EnwsIY9f_yBUEmPIhTMbMkin0&index=22</ref>

== Files Types ==
3D scanning by default creates point clouds when scanning. Point clouds are a collection of data points in space, together forming an object. These point clouds are then connected to create a mesh. The raw point clouds can be brought into other software's for post processing, but normally the resulting mesh is the file that is imported and exported between software's. However, directly from the EinScan software, as well as most 3<sup>rd</sup> party software's, the mesh can be exported as other file types like .asc, .stl, .ply, .obj, .3mf and more. For example, to directly print the model it should be exported as an .stl. However if more post processing was to be done or modified in another CAD(computer-aided design) software it could be exported as a .3mf file.
[[File: Exporting file for post-processing.png|center|400x600px|Exporting file for post-processing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Exporting file for post-processing</div>

== 3D Scanning in MakerSpace ==
===Our 3D scanner===
The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 handheld scanner has a scan area of 150 × 120 mm—250 × 200 mm and works at a minimum point distance of 0.2 mm. It can catch accurate details of either small and medium-sized objects: from 3 to 100 cm in tripod mode and from 30 to 100 cm when handheld.
[[File: The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 .png|center|300x500px|The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5.EinScan Pro 2X 2020</div>

<u>Specifications of the scanner</u>

The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.

<youtube>Ek6Dgay6t1U</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek6Dgay6t1U</ref>

<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Table 1. Other specs of the scanner</div>
{| class="wikitable"
|+ Other specifications of the scanner
! scope="col" |Spec
! scope="col" |Handheld HD Scan Mode
! scope="col" |Handheld Rapid Scan Mode
! scope="col" |Fixed Scan Mode with Turntable
! scope="col" |Fixed Scan Mode w/o Turntable
|-
|Single Scan accuracy
|up to 0.045 mm
|up to 0.1 mm
|0.4 mm
|0.4 mm
|-
|Scan speed
|up to 10 fps;
up to 3,000,000 points per second
|up to 30 fps;
up to 1,500,000 points per second
|<1s
|<1s
|-
|Point distance
|0.2-2mm
|0.2-2mm
|0.16mm
|0.16mm
|-
|Align modes
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
(for complex geometric objects)
|Turntable coded targets
alignment, markers, feature, manual alignment
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
|-
|Full-color scan
|No
|Yes
(Requires a Color Pack add-on)
|
|-
}

Generally, in the Makerspace, doing a 3D scan consists of choosing a scan type, preparing the scan in the software, prepping the object itself, and scanning the object. The resulting scan can be cleaned up at a basic level in the EinScan software and then exported to a stronger post-processing software for further processing.

[[File:3D scanning cycle .png|center|300x500px|3D scanning cycle |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. 3D scanning cycle</div>

=== Choosing Scan type ===
When the EinScan software is opened, a scanning method must be chosen. Either fixed or handheld.

[[File:Choosing scan type .png|center|400x600px|Choosing scan type |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Choosing scan type</div>

A Fixed scan keeps the scanner stationary while the object is rotated on the supplied rotating plate. A Handheld scan keeps the object stationary, and it is the scanner that gets moved around to capture multiple scans from different angles. For smaller objects the Fixed mode should be used whereas for larger objects, the handheld mode should be used.

The following video(in French) demonstrates an example of using rapid scan.<youtube>6VCepo4NkLQ</youtube>

Furthermore, there's handheld HD scan and handheld Rapid scan. The rapid scan captures less points per second but captures more scans per second so it will create a lower quality but more complete scan faster than the HD scan.

Overall, they are used in the same way. Stationary object, moving scanner.

===Selecting Texture===
After choosing a scan type, you will be prompted to select the scan's texture. The following picture demonstrates the dialog box that appears if you have selected Fixed scan. A non-texture scan will focus mainly on the object shape and will be grayscale or have a neutral color, while a texture scan will also bear the colors and other details of the scanned object as well as the shape.
[[File:Selecting texture for fixed scan .png|center|400x600px|Selecting texture for fixed scan |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Selecting texture for fixed scan </div>

The open global markers file will be addressed more in depth in Align mode->Global markers section.

If handheld scan was chosen, the following dialog box will appear. For Texture, it is similar to fixed scan, that is if you want to focus solely on the shape of the object select non-texture scan and select texture scan for objects that you would like to capture the details. While for mode of alignment, hybrid is using both markers and features present on the object to detect and scan the object.
[[File:Selecting texture for handheld scan .png|center|400x600px|Selecting texture for handheld scan |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Selecting texture for handheld scan </div>

=== Turntable settings ===
During a fixed scan, the object is placed on a turntable that automatically rotates so that the scanner can capture multiples scans from different angles. The number of steps in the full rotation is user set when prepping the scan. A smaller number of steps takes less time but may result in rougher scan quality (as it has less individual scans to take so less data to use). A higher number of steps will take longer but increase the quality of the scan (as there are more scans to help piece together the overall 3D mesh). A good rule of thumb is to start low around 6-10 and increase the steps as needed if the quality of the scan is too low.

When setting up a object on the turntable, make sure the object is centered on the turn table and is fully viewed by the preview of the scanner. Also verify that is it properly supported to the turntable and that it won’t slip as it turns. If it will, use some sticky tack to temporarily stick the object down.

Also, make sure that the object is placed in the scanner field by checking what is shown on the software camera when you are moving the object. Ensure that the + sign is aligned with the center if the turntable and place the object in the center as well. The following picture demonstrates how the scanner is aligned to the center of the turntable, ensure that the + sign is inside or close to the red box.
[[File:Scanner field of view .png|center|1000x400px|Scanner field of view]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Scanner field of view</div>

====Align mode====
<u>Turntable coded targets</u>

Recommended for objects that fit the turntable and that you would prefer not to have targets on the actual object. This option makes the scanner detect common markers on turntable to calculate the object’s new location as the turntable rotates.

This alignment mode makes it unnecessary to have markers on the object and also if it happens that the distance between the camera and the turntable fluctuates, you are not required to recalibrate the scanner.

<u>Features</u>

For an object that is too big for the turntable, and you would not be able to use markers, the features alignment method should be chosen. In this case, the software recognizes features on three consecutive early scans and then calculates the distance between the scanner and the turntable.

When choosing this option, ensure that the object is in a stable position on the turntable and the primary view has enough features to start the scanning process. Plain objects without striking features would not be recommended to be scanned with this alignment mode.

<u>Markers</u>

Markers are used when the camera cannot detect the targets found on the turntable. You should use stickers or marker dots on the object. See Prepare the Object->Markers for more information.

<u>Global markers</u>

This option is quite similar to using markers as an alignment method. When creating a new project, import a file with the global markers, known as global registration file or a .p3 file, which can be saved from a previous project using fixed scan mode or hand-held mode.

When choosing the markers or global markers align mode, you will be required to stick an adequate number of markers to ensure that the scanner can match consecutive scans, if some markers have already been scanned and imported. It may be required to increase the turntable steps to ensure that the scanner follows these consecutive scans, and also to be sure that the scanner detects the markers.

=== HDR (High Dynamic Range) Settings ===
The HDR (high dynamic range) settings alter the level of contrast that the scanner will use to detect an object as it flashes light during the scans. A lower HDR won’t pick up as much contrasting details. There is a preview in the program that shows what will most likely get picked up shown in red that can be used to ensure the object being scanned is properly captured. In short, if there are more colors, a higher HDR should be chosen to ensure they all get properly scanned.

===Prepare the Object===
====Reflectiveness====
Some materials are too reflective or too dark to properly be scanned. They either bounce off too much of the light, even at low HDR settings, or still absorb too much light, even at high HDR settings.
In either case, to combat this, the object can be dusted off with some talc powder. The talc powder helps balance out the reflective properties of the material, from extreme to extreme.
To prepare a reflective object to scan, you should first use a brush to cover its surface with talc powder.
Use the talc and brush found in the cabinet at the 3D scanning setup and apply a layer of talc powder on the object, make sure that the object shows up on the software once the talc powder has been applied.
The following picture demonstrates how a reflective object appears in a scanner field of view. Since, it is not shaded in red, it means that the scanner could not detect the object and hence the turntable appears empty.

[[File: 3D Scan of a reflective object .png|center|400x700px|3D Scan of a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. 3D Scan of a reflective object</div>

The following animation depicts how to reduce an object reflectiveness by adding talc.

[[File: Adding talc to a reflective object.gif|center|200x400px|Adding talc to a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Adding talc to a reflective object</div>

Now, as seen in the picture below, the key is shaded red, hence indicating that the scanner can detect the object.

[[File: 3D Scan of a reflective object with talc applied.png|center|400x700px|3D Scan of a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. 3D Scan of a reflective object</div>

====Markers====
If you are planning to take multiple scans (explained below) or are scanning on an object with large flat surfaces, simple geometry, or otherwise not enough features on it, it can be helpful to add temporary markers on the object to aid in aligning the scans.
Some examples would be small stickers or marker dots/markings as shown in the following picture:

[[File:Markers.png|center|400x600px|Markers]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Markers</div>
The following example shows an example where markers are useful. The object shown is dark, has some parts which are reflective and a variety of features. The markers helped to detect the chair back and seat, but for the reflective part in the middle, the markers were not enough, and hence talc was applied to help the scanner detect this part.

[[File:Markers on chair.png|center|400x600px|Markers on chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15. Markers on chair</div>

The result obtained is shown below:

[[File:3D scan of chair with markers.png|center|400x600px|3D scan of chair with markers]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 16. 3D scan of chair with markers</div>
The following video gives a more in-depth explanation of using markers before scanning an object.

<youtube>0gVSCrC0YZ4</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gVSCrC0YZ4</ref>

===Taking a scan===

Once the settings have been set up and the object is ready to be scanned, the scan can be started by pressing the start scan in the top right corner.

[[File:Starting a scan.png|center|300x500px|Starting a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 17. Starting a scan</div>

During a fixed scan, do not move the scanner or object. Once the rotations are complete, you can clean up the scan and move on. During a handheld scan, do not move the object and use the onscreen display to make sure you are within the correct scanning distance.

[[File:Preview of a scan.png|center|400x600px|Preview of a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 18. Preview of a scan</div>

===Immediately Cleaning up a scan===
Once the scan is complete, there is an initial option to roughly clean up the scan. This is a quick chance to manually get rid of the obvious “noise” picked up by the scan like the turn table, other objects in your scan that are not the target object etc. To get rid of these portions of a scan use the tools available to circle the noise and delete it. The scan can be rotated to get to every angle.

To remove unwanted features of a scanned object, hold the Shift key and use the left button of the mouse to select unwanted pieces and click on Delete.

Once a part is selected, it should appear in red as shown below:

[[File:Selecting unwanted parts.png|center|400x600px|Selecting unwanted parts]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 19. Selecting unwanted parts</div>

===Watertight and Unwatertight model===
After a scan, you can generate data points and then select mesh model to generate a 3D model. You will be prompted to select Watertight or Unwatertight model. A Watertight object is an object that is completely sealed, and no gaps are present, select this option if you have scanned an object in all directions.If Watertight is chosen for an object that was not scanned enough in all directions, the software would try to create the missing parts that were not scanned to complete the seal and hence compromising with the object actual structure.

[[File:Watertight and Unwatertight model.png|center|400x600px|Watertight and Unwatertight model]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Watertight and Unwatertight model</div>
The following demonstrates what happen if you select watertight model and not scanning enough to generate the complete object.
[[File:Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned.png|center|300x500px|Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned</div>
The chair was only scanned on the top, hence Unwatertight was chosen to make sure that the scanned model represents the actual object to a tee.

[[File:Unwatertight model of chair.png|center|400x600px|Unwatertight model of chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 21. Unwatertight model of chair</div>
After creating a mesh model, the model below is obtained. More post-processing tools such as removing holes and sharpening are found on the right.

[[File:Mesh model of chair.png|center|400x600px|Mesh model of chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 22. Mesh model of chair</div>

===Taking multiple scans===
Sometimes, 1 scan is not enough. Multiple scans might be needed to fully capture the details of an object. For example, if the base of an object has geometry that is hidden when it is lying flat. In this case, a second scan, with the object in a different orientation, would be needed to capture those hidden geometries. To take another scan, create another project within the same group and then do the same cleaning process as the first scan before aligning the 2 scans into 1.

====Aligning multiple scans====
To align multiple scans, the align feature can do it automatically, or the user can set 3 points on both scans that are the same to align the scans. Unless the object being scanned is very distinct, manual points should usually be used to align the scans. Once aligned, the mesh should be more complete.

As previously mentioned in preparing the object, temporary markers like small dot stickers or marker dots can also be added to aid in finding manual points to align the scans.

The following video depicts a project requiring two scans and aligning them afterwards.

<youtube>2VSr0DJVaxA</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VSr0DJVaxA</ref>

===Exporting the scan===
Once scanning is done, the mesh can be exported in a few different file types, such as.asc,.stl,. ply,.obj,.3mf. These can then be brought into other post-processing software to manipulate and dimension further, or even directly into fabrication software to 3D print, for example.

To export a scan, select the save icon found on the right as shown below.
[[File: Exporting a scan.png|center|400x600px|Exporting a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 23. Exporting a scan</div>

===Post-Processing in other software===
In Makerspace, there is the software GeoMagic that lets the user import a mesh. In GeoMagic, the user can manipulate the mesh with more control and dimension to make sure it is the correct size. GeoMagic can also help in ensuring a complete mesh by filling in any missing areas of the scan or replacing shapes of the mesh. Its only drawback is that it is not free, so if you are not in the Makerspace, you cannot use GeoMagic.
However, there are various free, open-source mesh editors that do similar functions. For example, Meshlabs. MeshLabs is open source and free to download. It has similar capabilities to GeoMagic including dimensioning known shapes, cleaning up the mesh and optimizing the numbers of polygons, as well as making it a watertight mesh.
The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.

[[File:Geomagic Wrap.png|center|400x600px|Geomagic Wrap|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 24. Geomagic Wrap</div>

The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.
<youtube>Ek6Dgay6t1U</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek6Dgay6t1U</ref>

=References=

|}

Digital technologies/3D Scanning

2025-08-20T12:50:09Z

Jboud030:

== Introduction ==
3D scanning is the technology of creating a 3D mesh from some mix of scanning techniques. Most 3D scanners use structured light or laser triangulation to scan what they see and use photogrammetry to create the 3D mesh by combining all the 2D scans together. The mesh can be used to create 3D models of various things and applications. For example, scanning a limb to create a custom prosthetic or scanning components to design a custom case, etc. At the makerspace we have the EinScan Pro X2020 which uses laser triangulation to take 2D scans of an object, and its paired with the EinScan software which complies everything together. Both require the other to work properly but the raw scan files can be imported to other post-processing software as needed.
[[File:Shining 3D software.png|center|400x600px|Shining 3D software|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Shining 3D software</div>

== Applications of 3D scanning ==
[[File:3D scanning.png|center|200x200px|3D scanning|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. 3D scanning</div>
3D scanning is a revolutionary technology which can be used on a day-to-day basis where you can easily scan a part, convert it to a CAD model and make necessary adjustments if required. Does a certain part not fit perfectly to an assembly? Just do a quick scan of that part, convert it to a CAD model, and resize it to perfection.

3D scanning has become increasingly popular in reverse engineering, which can be employed to make a 3D model of an existing part. Reverse engineering is beneficial in many ways since it helps to examine older creations and inspire novel ideas based on them, by designing the CAD model.

Elsewhere, 3D scanning is an efficient tool when prototyping, where you can quickly obtain the dimensions of a 3D object and, hence, create other prototypes. 3D scanning is thus a great tool to work with for research purposes.

Nowadays, 3D scanning is a technology present in numerous industries such as in the space industry, to scan space rocks, in the construction industry for quality control and entertainment industry, mostly used in virtual cinematography.

== How does it work? ==
The EinScan Pro x2020 can be used in a few ways. There's the fixed scan mode, where the scanner remains stationary, and the object is rotated in front of it to get all the sides.

[[File:Fixed scan.gif|center|300x400px|Fixed Scan|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Fixed scan</div>

Or it can be used in handheld mode, with the scanner being moved around the object and the object remaining stationary.
[[File:Hand-held scan.gif|center|300x400px|Hand-held Scan|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Hand-held scan</div>

Either way, the software will take all those pictures and create point clouds which can be used to create a 3D mesh of the object. Within the scanning software, light post processing can be done to modify the mesh as needed before exporting it as whatever file type is needed for the next step in the process. This step varies depending on what you are trying to do with the 3D scan.

Handheld scanning is more useful when the object to be scanned is too big to fit the turntable or has complicated features. The following video indicates in what cases the hand-held scanner will be more practical.

<youtube>4oqg8TN6iM8</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oqg8TN6iM8&list=PLtJFjqd-EnwsIY9f_yBUEmPIhTMbMkin0&index=22</ref>

== Files Types ==
3D scanning by default creates point clouds when scanning. Point clouds are a collection of data points in space, together forming an object. These point clouds are then connected to create a mesh. The raw point clouds can be brought into other software's for post processing, but normally the resulting mesh is the file that is imported and exported between software's. However, directly from the EinScan software, as well as most 3<sup>rd</sup> party software's, the mesh can be exported as other file types like .asc, .stl, .ply, .obj, .3mf and more. For example, to directly print the model it should be exported as an .stl. However if more post processing was to be done or modified in another CAD(computer-aided design) software it could be exported as a .3mf file.
[[File: Exporting file for post-processing.png|center|400x600px|Exporting file for post-processing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Exporting file for post-processing</div>

== 3D Scanning in MakerSpace ==
===Our 3D scanner===
The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 handheld scanner has a scan area of 150 × 120 mm—250 × 200 mm and works at a minimum point distance of 0.2 mm. It can catch accurate details of either small and medium-sized objects: from 3 to 100 cm in tripod mode and from 30 to 100 cm when handheld.
[[File: The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 .png|center|300x500px|The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5.EinScan Pro 2X 2020</div>

<u>Specifications of the scanner</u>

The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.

<youtube>Ek6Dgay6t1U</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek6Dgay6t1U</ref>

<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Table 1. Other specs of the scanner</div>
{| class="wikitable"
|+ Other specifications of the scanner
! scope="col" |Spec
! scope="col" |Handheld HD Scan Mode
! scope="col" |Handheld Rapid Scan Mode
! scope="col" |Fixed Scan Mode with Turntable
! scope="col" |Fixed Scan Mode w/o Turntable
|-
|Single Scan accuracy
|up to 0.045 mm
|up to 0.1 mm
|0.4 mm
|0.4 mm
|-
|Scan speed
|up to 10 fps;
up to 3,000,000 points per second
|up to 30 fps;
up to 1,500,000 points per second
|<1s
|<1s
|-
|Point distance
|0.2-2mm
|0.2-2mm
|0.16mm
|0.16mm
|-
|Align modes
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
(for complex geometric objects)
|Turntable coded targets
alignment, markers, feature, manual alignment
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
|-
|Full-color scan
|No
|Yes
(Requires a Color Pack add-on)
|
|
}

Generally, in the Makerspace, doing a 3D scan consists of choosing a scan type, preparing the scan in the software, prepping the object itself, and scanning the object. The resulting scan can be cleaned up at a basic level in the EinScan software and then exported to a stronger post-processing software for further processing.

[[File:3D scanning cycle .png|center|300x500px|3D scanning cycle |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. 3D scanning cycle</div>

=== Choosing Scan type ===
When the EinScan software is opened, a scanning method must be chosen. Either fixed or handheld.

[[File:Choosing scan type .png|center|400x600px|Choosing scan type |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Choosing scan type</div>

A Fixed scan keeps the scanner stationary while the object is rotated on the supplied rotating plate. A Handheld scan keeps the object stationary, and it is the scanner that gets moved around to capture multiple scans from different angles. For smaller objects the Fixed mode should be used whereas for larger objects, the handheld mode should be used.

The following video(in French) demonstrates an example of using rapid scan.<youtube>6VCepo4NkLQ</youtube>

Furthermore, there's handheld HD scan and handheld Rapid scan. The rapid scan captures less points per second but captures more scans per second so it will create a lower quality but more complete scan faster than the HD scan.

Overall, they are used in the same way. Stationary object, moving scanner.

===Selecting Texture===
After choosing a scan type, you will be prompted to select the scan's texture. The following picture demonstrates the dialog box that appears if you have selected Fixed scan. A non-texture scan will focus mainly on the object shape and will be grayscale or have a neutral color, while a texture scan will also bear the colors and other details of the scanned object as well as the shape.
[[File:Selecting texture for fixed scan .png|center|400x600px|Selecting texture for fixed scan |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Selecting texture for fixed scan </div>

The open global markers file will be addressed more in depth in Align mode->Global markers section.

If handheld scan was chosen, the following dialog box will appear. For Texture, it is similar to fixed scan, that is if you want to focus solely on the shape of the object select non-texture scan and select texture scan for objects that you would like to capture the details. While for mode of alignment, hybrid is using both markers and features present on the object to detect and scan the object.
[[File:Selecting texture for handheld scan .png|center|400x600px|Selecting texture for handheld scan |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Selecting texture for handheld scan </div>

=== Turntable settings ===
During a fixed scan, the object is placed on a turntable that automatically rotates so that the scanner can capture multiples scans from different angles. The number of steps in the full rotation is user set when prepping the scan. A smaller number of steps takes less time but may result in rougher scan quality (as it has less individual scans to take so less data to use). A higher number of steps will take longer but increase the quality of the scan (as there are more scans to help piece together the overall 3D mesh). A good rule of thumb is to start low around 6-10 and increase the steps as needed if the quality of the scan is too low.

When setting up a object on the turntable, make sure the object is centered on the turn table and is fully viewed by the preview of the scanner. Also verify that is it properly supported to the turntable and that it won’t slip as it turns. If it will, use some sticky tack to temporarily stick the object down.

Also, make sure that the object is placed in the scanner field by checking what is shown on the software camera when you are moving the object. Ensure that the + sign is aligned with the center if the turntable and place the object in the center as well. The following picture demonstrates how the scanner is aligned to the center of the turntable, ensure that the + sign is inside or close to the red box.
[[File:Scanner field of view .png|center|1000x400px|Scanner field of view]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Scanner field of view</div>

====Align mode====
<u>Turntable coded targets</u>

Recommended for objects that fit the turntable and that you would prefer not to have targets on the actual object. This option makes the scanner detect common markers on turntable to calculate the object’s new location as the turntable rotates.

This alignment mode makes it unnecessary to have markers on the object and also if it happens that the distance between the camera and the turntable fluctuates, you are not required to recalibrate the scanner.

<u>Features</u>

For an object that is too big for the turntable, and you would not be able to use markers, the features alignment method should be chosen. In this case, the software recognizes features on three consecutive early scans and then calculates the distance between the scanner and the turntable.

When choosing this option, ensure that the object is in a stable position on the turntable and the primary view has enough features to start the scanning process. Plain objects without striking features would not be recommended to be scanned with this alignment mode.

<u>Markers</u>

Markers are used when the camera cannot detect the targets found on the turntable. You should use stickers or marker dots on the object. See Prepare the Object->Markers for more information.

<u>Global markers</u>

This option is quite similar to using markers as an alignment method. When creating a new project, import a file with the global markers, known as global registration file or a .p3 file, which can be saved from a previous project using fixed scan mode or hand-held mode.

When choosing the markers or global markers align mode, you will be required to stick an adequate number of markers to ensure that the scanner can match consecutive scans, if some markers have already been scanned and imported. It may be required to increase the turntable steps to ensure that the scanner follows these consecutive scans, and also to be sure that the scanner detects the markers.

=== HDR (High Dynamic Range) Settings ===
The HDR (high dynamic range) settings alter the level of contrast that the scanner will use to detect an object as it flashes light during the scans. A lower HDR won’t pick up as much contrasting details. There is a preview in the program that shows what will most likely get picked up shown in red that can be used to ensure the object being scanned is properly captured. In short, if there are more colors, a higher HDR should be chosen to ensure they all get properly scanned.

===Prepare the Object===
====Reflectiveness====
Some materials are too reflective or too dark to properly be scanned. They either bounce off too much of the light, even at low HDR settings, or still absorb too much light, even at high HDR settings.
In either case, to combat this, the object can be dusted off with some talc powder. The talc powder helps balance out the reflective properties of the material, from extreme to extreme.
To prepare a reflective object to scan, you should first use a brush to cover its surface with talc powder.
Use the talc and brush found in the cabinet at the 3D scanning setup and apply a layer of talc powder on the object, make sure that the object shows up on the software once the talc powder has been applied.
The following picture demonstrates how a reflective object appears in a scanner field of view. Since, it is not shaded in red, it means that the scanner could not detect the object and hence the turntable appears empty.

[[File: 3D Scan of a reflective object .png|center|400x700px|3D Scan of a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. 3D Scan of a reflective object</div>

The following animation depicts how to reduce an object reflectiveness by adding talc.

[[File: Adding talc to a reflective object.gif|center|200x400px|Adding talc to a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Adding talc to a reflective object</div>

Now, as seen in the picture below, the key is shaded red, hence indicating that the scanner can detect the object.

[[File: 3D Scan of a reflective object with talc applied.png|center|400x700px|3D Scan of a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. 3D Scan of a reflective object</div>

====Markers====
If you are planning to take multiple scans (explained below) or are scanning on an object with large flat surfaces, simple geometry, or otherwise not enough features on it, it can be helpful to add temporary markers on the object to aid in aligning the scans.
Some examples would be small stickers or marker dots/markings as shown in the following picture:

[[File:Markers.png|center|400x600px|Markers]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Markers</div>
The following example shows an example where markers are useful. The object shown is dark, has some parts which are reflective and a variety of features. The markers helped to detect the chair back and seat, but for the reflective part in the middle, the markers were not enough, and hence talc was applied to help the scanner detect this part.

[[File:Markers on chair.png|center|400x600px|Markers on chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15. Markers on chair</div>

The result obtained is shown below:

[[File:3D scan of chair with markers.png|center|400x600px|3D scan of chair with markers]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 16. 3D scan of chair with markers</div>
The following video gives a more in-depth explanation of using markers before scanning an object.

<youtube>0gVSCrC0YZ4</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gVSCrC0YZ4</ref>

===Taking a scan===

Once the settings have been set up and the object is ready to be scanned, the scan can be started by pressing the start scan in the top right corner.

[[File:Starting a scan.png|center|300x500px|Starting a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 17. Starting a scan</div>

During a fixed scan, do not move the scanner or object. Once the rotations are complete, you can clean up the scan and move on. During a handheld scan, do not move the object and use the onscreen display to make sure you are within the correct scanning distance.

[[File:Preview of a scan.png|center|400x600px|Preview of a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 18. Preview of a scan</div>

===Immediately Cleaning up a scan===
Once the scan is complete, there is an initial option to roughly clean up the scan. This is a quick chance to manually get rid of the obvious “noise” picked up by the scan like the turn table, other objects in your scan that are not the target object etc. To get rid of these portions of a scan use the tools available to circle the noise and delete it. The scan can be rotated to get to every angle.

To remove unwanted features of a scanned object, hold the Shift key and use the left button of the mouse to select unwanted pieces and click on Delete.

Once a part is selected, it should appear in red as shown below:

[[File:Selecting unwanted parts.png|center|400x600px|Selecting unwanted parts]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 19. Selecting unwanted parts</div>

===Watertight and Unwatertight model===
After a scan, you can generate data points and then select mesh model to generate a 3D model. You will be prompted to select Watertight or Unwatertight model. A Watertight object is an object that is completely sealed, and no gaps are present, select this option if you have scanned an object in all directions.If Watertight is chosen for an object that was not scanned enough in all directions, the software would try to create the missing parts that were not scanned to complete the seal and hence compromising with the object actual structure.

[[File:Watertight and Unwatertight model.png|center|400x600px|Watertight and Unwatertight model]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Watertight and Unwatertight model</div>
The following demonstrates what happen if you select watertight model and not scanning enough to generate the complete object.
[[File:Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned.png|center|300x500px|Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned</div>
The chair was only scanned on the top, hence Unwatertight was chosen to make sure that the scanned model represents the actual object to a tee.

[[File:Unwatertight model of chair.png|center|400x600px|Unwatertight model of chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 21. Unwatertight model of chair</div>
After creating a mesh model, the model below is obtained. More post-processing tools such as removing holes and sharpening are found on the right.

[[File:Mesh model of chair.png|center|400x600px|Mesh model of chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 22. Mesh model of chair</div>

===Taking multiple scans===
Sometimes, 1 scan is not enough. Multiple scans might be needed to fully capture the details of an object. For example, if the base of an object has geometry that is hidden when it is lying flat. In this case, a second scan, with the object in a different orientation, would be needed to capture those hidden geometries. To take another scan, create another project within the same group and then do the same cleaning process as the first scan before aligning the 2 scans into 1.

====Aligning multiple scans====
To align multiple scans, the align feature can do it automatically, or the user can set 3 points on both scans that are the same to align the scans. Unless the object being scanned is very distinct, manual points should usually be used to align the scans. Once aligned, the mesh should be more complete.

As previously mentioned in preparing the object, temporary markers like small dot stickers or marker dots can also be added to aid in finding manual points to align the scans.

The following video depicts a project requiring two scans and aligning them afterwards.

<youtube>2VSr0DJVaxA</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VSr0DJVaxA</ref>

===Exporting the scan===
Once scanning is done, the mesh can be exported in a few different file types, such as.asc,.stl,. ply,.obj,.3mf. These can then be brought into other post-processing software to manipulate and dimension further, or even directly into fabrication software to 3D print, for example.

To export a scan, select the save icon found on the right as shown below.
[[File: Exporting a scan.png|center|400x600px|Exporting a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 23. Exporting a scan</div>

===Post-Processing in other software===
In Makerspace, there is the software GeoMagic that lets the user import a mesh. In GeoMagic, the user can manipulate the mesh with more control and dimension to make sure it is the correct size. GeoMagic can also help in ensuring a complete mesh by filling in any missing areas of the scan or replacing shapes of the mesh. Its only drawback is that it is not free, so if you are not in the Makerspace, you cannot use GeoMagic.
However, there are various free, open-source mesh editors that do similar functions. For example, Meshlabs. MeshLabs is open source and free to download. It has similar capabilities to GeoMagic including dimensioning known shapes, cleaning up the mesh and optimizing the numbers of polygons, as well as making it a watertight mesh.
The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.

[[File:Geomagic Wrap.png|center|400x600px|Geomagic Wrap|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 24. Geomagic Wrap</div>

The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.
<youtube>Ek6Dgay6t1U</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek6Dgay6t1U</ref>

=References=

|}

Digital technologies/3D Scanning

2025-08-20T12:46:16Z

Jboud030:

== Introduction ==
3D scanning is the technology of creating a 3D mesh from some mix of scanning techniques. Most 3D scanners use structured light or laser triangulation to scan what they see and use photogrammetry to create the 3D mesh by combining all the 2D scans together. The mesh can be used to create 3D models of various things and applications. For example, scanning a limb to create a custom prosthetic or scanning components to design a custom case, etc. At the makerspace we have the EinScan Pro X2020 which uses laser triangulation to take 2D scans of an object, and its paired with the EinScan software which complies everything together. Both require the other to work properly but the raw scan files can be imported to other post-processing software as needed.
[[File:Shining 3D software.png|center|400x600px|Shining 3D software|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Shining 3D software</div>

== Applications of 3D scanning ==
[[File:3D scanning.png|center|200x200px|3D scanning|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. 3D scanning</div>
3D scanning is a revolutionary technology which can be used on a day-to-day basis where you can easily scan a part, convert it to a CAD model and make necessary adjustments if required. Does a certain part not fit perfectly to an assembly? Just do a quick scan of that part, convert it to a CAD model, and resize it to perfection.

3D scanning has become increasingly popular in reverse engineering, which can be employed to make a 3D model of an existing part. Reverse engineering is beneficial in many ways since it helps to examine older creations and inspire novel ideas based on them, by designing the CAD model.

Elsewhere, 3D scanning is an efficient tool when prototyping, where you can quickly obtain the dimensions of a 3D object and, hence, create other prototypes. 3D scanning is thus a great tool to work with for research purposes.

Nowadays, 3D scanning is a technology present in numerous industries such as in the space industry, to scan space rocks, in the construction industry for quality control and entertainment industry, mostly used in virtual cinematography.

== How does it work? ==
The EinScan Pro x2020 can be used in a few ways. There's the fixed scan mode, where the scanner remains stationary, and the object is rotated in front of it to get all the sides.

[[File:Fixed scan.gif|center|300x400px|Fixed Scan|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Fixed scan</div>

Or it can be used in handheld mode, with the scanner being moved around the object and the object remaining stationary.
[[File:Hand-held scan.gif|center|300x400px|Hand-held Scan|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Hand-held scan</div>

Either way, the software will take all those pictures and create point clouds which can be used to create a 3D mesh of the object. Within the scanning software, light post processing can be done to modify the mesh as needed before exporting it as whatever file type is needed for the next step in the process. This step varies depending on what you are trying to do with the 3D scan.

Handheld scanning is more useful when the object to be scanned is too big to fit the turntable or has complicated features. The following video indicates in what cases the hand-held scanner will be more practical.

<youtube>4oqg8TN6iM8</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oqg8TN6iM8&list=PLtJFjqd-EnwsIY9f_yBUEmPIhTMbMkin0&index=22</ref>

== Files Types ==
3D scanning by default creates point clouds when scanning. Point clouds are a collection of data points in space, together forming an object. These point clouds are then connected to create a mesh. The raw point clouds can be brought into other software's for post processing, but normally the resulting mesh is the file that is imported and exported between software's. However, directly from the EinScan software, as well as most 3<sup>rd</sup> party software's, the mesh can be exported as other file types like .asc, .stl, .ply, .obj, .3mf and more. For example, to directly print the model it should be exported as an .stl. However if more post processing was to be done or modified in another CAD(computer-aided design) software it could be exported as a .3mf file.
[[File: Exporting file for post-processing.png|center|400x600px|Exporting file for post-processing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Exporting file for post-processing</div>

== 3D Scanning in MakerSpace ==
===Our 3D scanner===
The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 handheld scanner has a scan area of 150 × 120 mm—250 × 200 mm and works at a minimum point distance of 0.2 mm. It can catch accurate details of either small and medium-sized objects: from 3 to 100 cm in tripod mode and from 30 to 100 cm when handheld.
[[File: The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 .png|center|300x500px|The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5.EinScan Pro 2X 2020</div>

<u>Specifications of the scanner</u>

<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Table 1. Other specs of the scanner</div>
The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.

<youtube>Ek6Dgay6t1U</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek6Dgay6t1U</ref>

{| class="wikitable"
|+ Other specifications of the scanner
! scope="col" |Spec
! scope="col" |Handheld HD Scan Mode
! scope="col" |Handheld Rapid Scan Mode
! scope="col" |Fixed Scan Mode with Turntable
! scope="col" |Fixed Scan Mode w/o Turntable
|-
|Single Scan accuracy
|up to 0.045 mm
|up to 0.1 mm
|0.4 mm
|0.4 mm
|-
|Scan speed
|up to 10 fps;
up to 3,000,000
points per second;
|up to 30 fps;
up to 1,500,000 points per second
|<1s
|<1s
|-
|Point
distance
|0.2-2mm
|0.2-2mm
|0.16mm
|0.16mm
|-
|Align
modes
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
(for complex geometric objects)
|Turntable coded targets
alignment, markers, feature, manual alignment
|Markers, feature, hybrid alignment
|-
|Full-color scan
|No
|Yes
(Requires a Color Pack add-on)

|
|
|-
}

Generally, in the Makerspace, doing a 3D scan consists of choosing a scan type, preparing the scan in the software, prepping the object itself, and scanning the object. The resulting scan can be cleaned up at a basic level in the EinScan software and then exported to a stronger post-processing software for further processing.

[[File:3D scanning cycle .png|center|300x500px|3D scanning cycle |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. 3D scanning cycle</div>

=== Choosing Scan type ===
When the EinScan software is opened, a scanning method must be chosen. Either fixed or handheld.

[[File:Choosing scan type .png|center|400x600px|Choosing scan type |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Choosing scan type</div>

A Fixed scan keeps the scanner stationary while the object is rotated on the supplied rotating plate. A Handheld scan keeps the object stationary, and it is the scanner that gets moved around to capture multiple scans from different angles. For smaller objects the Fixed mode should be used whereas for larger objects, the handheld mode should be used.

The following video(in French) demonstrates an example of using rapid scan.<youtube>6VCepo4NkLQ</youtube>

Furthermore, there's handheld HD scan and handheld Rapid scan. The rapid scan captures less points per second but captures more scans per second so it will create a lower quality but more complete scan faster than the HD scan.

Overall, they are used in the same way. Stationary object, moving scanner.

===Selecting Texture===
After choosing a scan type, you will be prompted to select the scan's texture. The following picture demonstrates the dialog box that appears if you have selected Fixed scan. A non-texture scan will focus mainly on the object shape and will be grayscale or have a neutral color, while a texture scan will also bear the colors and other details of the scanned object as well as the shape.
[[File:Selecting texture for fixed scan .png|center|400x600px|Selecting texture for fixed scan |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Selecting texture for fixed scan </div>

The open global markers file will be addressed more in depth in Align mode->Global markers section.

If handheld scan was chosen, the following dialog box will appear. For Texture, it is similar to fixed scan, that is if you want to focus solely on the shape of the object select non-texture scan and select texture scan for objects that you would like to capture the details. While for mode of alignment, hybrid is using both markers and features present on the object to detect and scan the object.
[[File:Selecting texture for handheld scan .png|center|400x600px|Selecting texture for handheld scan |]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Selecting texture for handheld scan </div>

=== Turntable settings ===
During a fixed scan, the object is placed on a turntable that automatically rotates so that the scanner can capture multiples scans from different angles. The number of steps in the full rotation is user set when prepping the scan. A smaller number of steps takes less time but may result in rougher scan quality (as it has less individual scans to take so less data to use). A higher number of steps will take longer but increase the quality of the scan (as there are more scans to help piece together the overall 3D mesh). A good rule of thumb is to start low around 6-10 and increase the steps as needed if the quality of the scan is too low.

When setting up a object on the turntable, make sure the object is centered on the turn table and is fully viewed by the preview of the scanner. Also verify that is it properly supported to the turntable and that it won’t slip as it turns. If it will, use some sticky tack to temporarily stick the object down.

Also, make sure that the object is placed in the scanner field by checking what is shown on the software camera when you are moving the object. Ensure that the + sign is aligned with the center if the turntable and place the object in the center as well. The following picture demonstrates how the scanner is aligned to the center of the turntable, ensure that the + sign is inside or close to the red box.
[[File:Scanner field of view .png|center|1000x400px|Scanner field of view]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Scanner field of view</div>

====Align mode====
<u>Turntable coded targets</u>

Recommended for objects that fit the turntable and that you would prefer not to have targets on the actual object. This option makes the scanner detect common markers on turntable to calculate the object’s new location as the turntable rotates.

This alignment mode makes it unnecessary to have markers on the object and also if it happens that the distance between the camera and the turntable fluctuates, you are not required to recalibrate the scanner.

<u>Features</u>

For an object that is too big for the turntable, and you would not be able to use markers, the features alignment method should be chosen. In this case, the software recognizes features on three consecutive early scans and then calculates the distance between the scanner and the turntable.

When choosing this option, ensure that the object is in a stable position on the turntable and the primary view has enough features to start the scanning process. Plain objects without striking features would not be recommended to be scanned with this alignment mode.

<u>Markers</u>

Markers are used when the camera cannot detect the targets found on the turntable. You should use stickers or marker dots on the object. See Prepare the Object->Markers for more information.

<u>Global markers</u>

This option is quite similar to using markers as an alignment method. When creating a new project, import a file with the global markers, known as global registration file or a .p3 file, which can be saved from a previous project using fixed scan mode or hand-held mode.

When choosing the markers or global markers align mode, you will be required to stick an adequate number of markers to ensure that the scanner can match consecutive scans, if some markers have already been scanned and imported. It may be required to increase the turntable steps to ensure that the scanner follows these consecutive scans, and also to be sure that the scanner detects the markers.

=== HDR (High Dynamic Range) Settings ===
The HDR (high dynamic range) settings alter the level of contrast that the scanner will use to detect an object as it flashes light during the scans. A lower HDR won’t pick up as much contrasting details. There is a preview in the program that shows what will most likely get picked up shown in red that can be used to ensure the object being scanned is properly captured. In short, if there are more colors, a higher HDR should be chosen to ensure they all get properly scanned.

===Prepare the Object===
====Reflectiveness====
Some materials are too reflective or too dark to properly be scanned. They either bounce off too much of the light, even at low HDR settings, or still absorb too much light, even at high HDR settings.
In either case, to combat this, the object can be dusted off with some talc powder. The talc powder helps balance out the reflective properties of the material, from extreme to extreme.
To prepare a reflective object to scan, you should first use a brush to cover its surface with talc powder.
Use the talc and brush found in the cabinet at the 3D scanning setup and apply a layer of talc powder on the object, make sure that the object shows up on the software once the talc powder has been applied.
The following picture demonstrates how a reflective object appears in a scanner field of view. Since, it is not shaded in red, it means that the scanner could not detect the object and hence the turntable appears empty.

[[File: 3D Scan of a reflective object .png|center|400x700px|3D Scan of a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. 3D Scan of a reflective object</div>

The following animation depicts how to reduce an object reflectiveness by adding talc.

[[File: Adding talc to a reflective object.gif|center|200x400px|Adding talc to a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Adding talc to a reflective object</div>

Now, as seen in the picture below, the key is shaded red, hence indicating that the scanner can detect the object.

[[File: 3D Scan of a reflective object with talc applied.png|center|400x700px|3D Scan of a reflective object]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. 3D Scan of a reflective object</div>

====Markers====
If you are planning to take multiple scans (explained below) or are scanning on an object with large flat surfaces, simple geometry, or otherwise not enough features on it, it can be helpful to add temporary markers on the object to aid in aligning the scans.
Some examples would be small stickers or marker dots/markings as shown in the following picture:

[[File:Markers.png|center|400x600px|Markers]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Markers</div>
The following example shows an example where markers are useful. The object shown is dark, has some parts which are reflective and a variety of features. The markers helped to detect the chair back and seat, but for the reflective part in the middle, the markers were not enough, and hence talc was applied to help the scanner detect this part.

[[File:Markers on chair.png|center|400x600px|Markers on chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15. Markers on chair</div>

The result obtained is shown below:

[[File:3D scan of chair with markers.png|center|400x600px|3D scan of chair with markers]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 16. 3D scan of chair with markers</div>
The following video gives a more in-depth explanation of using markers before scanning an object.

<youtube>0gVSCrC0YZ4</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gVSCrC0YZ4</ref>

===Taking a scan===

Once the settings have been set up and the object is ready to be scanned, the scan can be started by pressing the start scan in the top right corner.

[[File:Starting a scan.png|center|300x500px|Starting a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 17. Starting a scan</div>

During a fixed scan, do not move the scanner or object. Once the rotations are complete, you can clean up the scan and move on. During a handheld scan, do not move the object and use the onscreen display to make sure you are within the correct scanning distance.

[[File:Preview of a scan.png|center|400x600px|Preview of a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 18. Preview of a scan</div>

===Immediately Cleaning up a scan===
Once the scan is complete, there is an initial option to roughly clean up the scan. This is a quick chance to manually get rid of the obvious “noise” picked up by the scan like the turn table, other objects in your scan that are not the target object etc. To get rid of these portions of a scan use the tools available to circle the noise and delete it. The scan can be rotated to get to every angle.

To remove unwanted features of a scanned object, hold the Shift key and use the left button of the mouse to select unwanted pieces and click on Delete.

Once a part is selected, it should appear in red as shown below:

[[File:Selecting unwanted parts.png|center|400x600px|Selecting unwanted parts]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 19. Selecting unwanted parts</div>

===Watertight and Unwatertight model===
After a scan, you can generate data points and then select mesh model to generate a 3D model. You will be prompted to select Watertight or Unwatertight model. A Watertight object is an object that is completely sealed, and no gaps are present, select this option if you have scanned an object in all directions.If Watertight is chosen for an object that was not scanned enough in all directions, the software would try to create the missing parts that were not scanned to complete the seal and hence compromising with the object actual structure.

[[File:Watertight and Unwatertight model.png|center|400x600px|Watertight and Unwatertight model]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Watertight and Unwatertight model</div>
The following demonstrates what happen if you select watertight model and not scanning enough to generate the complete object.
[[File:Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned.png|center|300x500px|Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Watertight model of an object that has not been completely scanned</div>
The chair was only scanned on the top, hence Unwatertight was chosen to make sure that the scanned model represents the actual object to a tee.

[[File:Unwatertight model of chair.png|center|400x600px|Unwatertight model of chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 21. Unwatertight model of chair</div>
After creating a mesh model, the model below is obtained. More post-processing tools such as removing holes and sharpening are found on the right.

[[File:Mesh model of chair.png|center|400x600px|Mesh model of chair]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 22. Mesh model of chair</div>

===Taking multiple scans===
Sometimes, 1 scan is not enough. Multiple scans might be needed to fully capture the details of an object. For example, if the base of an object has geometry that is hidden when it is lying flat. In this case, a second scan, with the object in a different orientation, would be needed to capture those hidden geometries. To take another scan, create another project within the same group and then do the same cleaning process as the first scan before aligning the 2 scans into 1.

====Aligning multiple scans====
To align multiple scans, the align feature can do it automatically, or the user can set 3 points on both scans that are the same to align the scans. Unless the object being scanned is very distinct, manual points should usually be used to align the scans. Once aligned, the mesh should be more complete.

As previously mentioned in preparing the object, temporary markers like small dot stickers or marker dots can also be added to aid in finding manual points to align the scans.

The following video depicts a project requiring two scans and aligning them afterwards.

<youtube>2VSr0DJVaxA</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VSr0DJVaxA</ref>

===Exporting the scan===
Once scanning is done, the mesh can be exported in a few different file types, such as.asc,.stl,. ply,.obj,.3mf. These can then be brought into other post-processing software to manipulate and dimension further, or even directly into fabrication software to 3D print, for example.

To export a scan, select the save icon found on the right as shown below.
[[File: Exporting a scan.png|center|400x600px|Exporting a scan]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 23. Exporting a scan</div>

===Post-Processing in other software===
In Makerspace, there is the software GeoMagic that lets the user import a mesh. In GeoMagic, the user can manipulate the mesh with more control and dimension to make sure it is the correct size. GeoMagic can also help in ensuring a complete mesh by filling in any missing areas of the scan or replacing shapes of the mesh. Its only drawback is that it is not free, so if you are not in the Makerspace, you cannot use GeoMagic.
However, there are various free, open-source mesh editors that do similar functions. For example, Meshlabs. MeshLabs is open source and free to download. It has similar capabilities to GeoMagic including dimensioning known shapes, cleaning up the mesh and optimizing the numbers of polygons, as well as making it a watertight mesh.
The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.

[[File:Geomagic Wrap.png|center|400x600px|Geomagic Wrap|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 24. Geomagic Wrap</div>

The following video demonstrates how to use GeoMagic Wrap 2021 to edit your 3D scanned object. Make sure to save your file as STL or 3MF to be able to open it in the software.
<youtube>Ek6Dgay6t1U</youtube><ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek6Dgay6t1U</ref>

=References=

|}

Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech Resources

2025-07-25T19:02:47Z

Jboud030:

AT (assistive technology) resources are online tools to help users navigate different learning content and information regarding devices designed for accessibility.

==Accessibility Design Considerations==
Ensure that when you design your UI for clients having <u>accessibility needs</u>, you take into considerations the colours you use.

*[http://colorsafe.co/ This website] and [https://webaim.org/resources/contrastchecker/ this website] based on the Web Content Accessibility Guidelines (WCAG) is a ''great'' resource that was suggested by a client who works in accessibility!
*[https://accessibility.blog.gov.uk/2016/09/02/dos-and-donts-on-designing-for-accessibility/ This website] also has great infographics for do’s and don'ts on designing for different accessibility groups.
*[http://www.sussex.ac.uk/tel/resource/tel_website/accessiblecontrast/?q=FFFFFF~003b49~1d4289~94a596~e56db1~d3273e~00bfb2~d6d2c4~ffc845~dc582a~41b6e6~1b365d~be84a3~5d3754~7da1c4~f2c75c~d0d3d4~007a78~000000 This University of Sussex page] with a few pre-loaded colours can be a very useful tool for this as well. Notice how the [http://www.sussex.ac.uk/tel/resource/tel_website/accessiblecontrast/?q=8f001a~ffffff uOttawa official backdrop colour scores well with white text].
*[https://www.color-blindness.com/coblis-color-blindness-simulator/ This website] allows you to upload a picture and see it through the eyes of someone with colour blindness.

===Different Types of Switches===
[[File:Switches.webp|thumb|Assessment switch kit from [https://www.inclusive.com/collections/hardware-switch-access-technology?srsltid=AfmBOor5k2U9DGBf6fpfp51f0ttOojLUWdYBH8VR1NSEDCSKCr3rWfbH inclusive.com]]]
A switch is an accessibility tool that can be used to control technology such as computers, smartphones, communication aids, powered wheelchairs, light switches, etc. They are used for people who have limitations in mobility or cognition. Because a switch only has the option of yes/on or no/off, it allows for more precise communication.

The following links are to websites that explain the differences between multiple types of switches. This should be your first step when determining what switch you will use in your design.
* [https://www.perkins.org/resource/introduction-7-common-adaptive-switches/ Introduction to 7 common adaptive switches]
* [https://www.testdevlab.com/blog/adaptive-switches-and-switch-access-in-accessibility-testing Adaptive switches and switch access in accessibility testing]
[[File:Auxcord.jpg|thumb|Example of aux cord from [https://bltt.org/switch-access/ better living through technology]]]

==== Aux Port Cords ====
Many designs for accessibility involve an aux cord to connect switches to various devices. It’s important to consider that each client or user that will use your prototype will have different needs when it comes to their abilities. Keep this in mind and ensure you are using as many universally adaptive subsystems as possible like the [https://www.newegg.ca/satellitesale-3-ft-stereo-cables/p/1BJ-007D-00029 Universal aux cord] or the [https://www.pishop.ca/product/breadboard-friendly-3-5mm-stereo-headphone-jack/ breadboard friendly headphone jack]. This allows a user to connect any switch that works for them to your device.

[https://www.inclusive.com/collections/hardware-switch-access-technology The Inclusive website] and [https://enablingdevices.com/product-category/switches/ Enabling devices] show a variety of switches and materials to use them.

== Makers Making Change ==
[[File:MMC logo.png|thumb|200x200px|Makers Making Change logo]]

=== Resources ===
Makers making change has many resources for assistive tech. This is a list of beginner friendly tutorials and guides for you to get started on projects.
*[https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/3D_Printing// 3D Printing]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/Arduino// Arduino]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/CAD// CAD]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/Git_Hub// GitHub]
[[File:MMC library example.jpg|thumb|240x240px|Examples of accessibility aids made by Makers Making Change.]]

=== Assistive Devices ===
Makers Making Change also has a website that includes a [https://www.makersmakingchange.com/s/assistive-devices Library] of assistive devices they have had volunteers create for people. This is a great resource for assisting in the design process as well as benchmarking and prototyping existing products.

They have many more Open AT resources that can be explored through this link to their homepage [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/?mc%20cid=49f86fff41. Here]

== Instructables ==
[https://www.instructables.com/ Instructables] is a website that combines tips & tricks of different tools with workshops, designs, crafts, and more! They integrate learning with hands on examples just like your labs!

You can search up any key words like [https://www.instructables.com/search/?q=assistive%20tech&projects=featured Assistive tech] and filter through different tools such as laser cutting and 3D printing.

== Resource Library for Inclusion & Accessibility ==
The Rick Hansen Foundation has an online library full of e-books, lessons, activities, videos, and more on the importance of accessibility. This is a great resource for empathy and perspective for GNG 2101 projects. The library is completely free for anyone to use and can be accessed [https://www.rickhansen.com/schools-communities/resource-library Here].

Professional development

2025-07-25T18:54:39Z

Jboud030: /* Design thinking resources */

Below you can find sections of different professional development subjects.

==Design thinking resources==

*[[Professional development/Design thinking/Detailed designs|Detailed designs]]
*[[Professional development/Design thinking/Design for manufacturing|Design for manufacturing]]
*[[Professional development/Design thinking/Software prototyping and tools|Software prototyping and tools]]
*[[Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech Resources|Assistive Tech Resources]]
*[[Web-based collaborative design tools]]
*[[Shafting]]
*[[Engineering Drawings]]

==Entrepreneurship basics resources==

==Project management resources==

*[[GNG tips and tricks]]
*[[Professional development/Project management/Purchasing Guide|Purchasing Guide]]
*[[Professional development/Project management/Refund Guide|Refund Guide]]
*[[Professional development/Project management/Wrike guide|Wrike Guide]]
*[[Professional development/Project management/MS Project Guide|MS Project Guide]]
*[[Professional development/Project management/Word Submission Guide|Word Submission Guide]]

==Effective communication resources==
<br />

Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech

2025-07-25T18:51:56Z

Jboud030: Jboud030 moved page Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech to Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech Resources

#REDIRECT [[Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech Resources]]

Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech Resources

2025-07-25T18:51:56Z

Jboud030: Jboud030 moved page Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech to Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech Resources

AT (assistive technology) resources are online tools to help users navigate different learning content and information regarding devices designed for accessibility.

==Accessibility Design Considerations==
Ensure that when you design your UI for clients having <u>accessibility needs</u>, you take into considerations the colours you use.

*[http://colorsafe.co/ This website] and [https://webaim.org/resources/contrastchecker/ this website] based on the Web Content Accessibility Guidelines (WCAG) is a ''great'' resource that was suggested by a client who works in accessibility!
*[https://accessibility.blog.gov.uk/2016/09/02/dos-and-donts-on-designing-for-accessibility/ This website] also has great infographics for do’s and don'ts on designing for different accessibility groups.
*[http://www.sussex.ac.uk/tel/resource/tel_website/accessiblecontrast/?q=FFFFFF~003b49~1d4289~94a596~e56db1~d3273e~00bfb2~d6d2c4~ffc845~dc582a~41b6e6~1b365d~be84a3~5d3754~7da1c4~f2c75c~d0d3d4~007a78~000000 This University of Sussex page] with a few pre-loaded colours can be a very useful tool for this as well. Notice how the [http://www.sussex.ac.uk/tel/resource/tel_website/accessiblecontrast/?q=8f001a~ffffff uOttawa official backdrop colour scores well with white text].
*[https://www.color-blindness.com/coblis-color-blindness-simulator/ This website] allows you to upload a picture and see it through the eyes of someone with colour blindness.

===Different Types of Switches===
[[File:Switches.webp|thumb|Assessment switch kit from [https://www.inclusive.com/collections/hardware-switch-access-technology?srsltid=AfmBOor5k2U9DGBf6fpfp51f0ttOojLUWdYBH8VR1NSEDCSKCr3rWfbH inclusive.com]]]
A switch is an accessibility tool that can be used to control technology such as computers, smartphones, communication aids, powered wheelchairs, light switches, etc. They are used for people who have limitations in mobility or cognition. Because a switch only has the option of yes/on or no/off, it allows for more precise communication.

The following links are to websites that explain the differences between multiple types of switches. This should be your first step when determining what switch you will use in your design.
* [https://www.perkins.org/resource/introduction-7-common-adaptive-switches/ Introduction to 7 common adaptive switches]
* [https://www.testdevlab.com/blog/adaptive-switches-and-switch-access-in-accessibility-testing Adaptive switches and switch access in accessibility testing]
[[File:Auxcord.jpg|thumb|Example of aux cord from [https://bltt.org/switch-access/ better living through technology]]]

==== Aux Port Cords ====
Many designs for accessibility involve an aux cord to maneuver switch devices. It’s important to consider that each client or user that will use your prototype will have different needs when it comes to their abilities. Keep in mind of this and ensure you are using as many universally adaptive subsystems as possible like the [https://www.newegg.ca/satellitesale-3-ft-stereo-cables/p/1BJ-007D-00029 Universal aux cord].

[https://www.inclusive.com/collections/hardware-switch-access-technology The Inclusive website] and [https://enablingdevices.com/product-category/switches/ Enabling devices] show a variety of switches and materials to use them.

== Makers Making Change ==
[[File:MMC logo.png|thumb|200x200px|Makers Making Change logo]]

=== Resources ===
Makers making change has many resources for assistive tech. This is a list of beginner friendly tutorials and guides for you to get started on projects.
*[https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/3D_Printing// 3D Printing]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/Arduino// Arduino]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/CAD// CAD]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/Git_Hub// GitHub]
[[File:MMC library example.jpg|thumb|240x240px|Examples of accessibility aids made my Makers Making Change.]]

=== Assistive Devices ===
Makers Making Change also has a website that includes a [https://www.makersmakingchange.com/s/assistive-devices Library] of assistive devices they have had volunteers create for people. This is a great resource for assisting in the design process as well as benchmarking and prototyping existing products.

They have many more Open AT resources that can be explored through this link to their homepage [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/?mc%20cid=49f86fff41. Here]

== Instructables ==
[https://www.instructables.com/ Instructables] is a website that combines tips & tricks of different tools with workshops, designs, crafts, and more! They integrate learning with hands on examples just like your labs!

You can search up any key words like [https://www.instructables.com/search/?q=assistive%20tech&projects=featured Assistive tech] and filter through different tools such as laser cutting and 3D printing.

== Resource Library for Inclusion & Accessibility ==
The Rick Hansen Foundation has an online library full of e-books, lessons, activities, videos, and more on the importance of accessibility. This is a great resource for empathy and perspective for GNG 2101 projects. The library is completely free for anyone to use and can be accessed [https://www.rickhansen.com/schools-communities/resource-library Here].

Digital technologies

2025-07-23T13:48:30Z

Jboud030: /* Textile resources */

Below you can find sections of different digital technologies, based on their level.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing|3D printing resources]]==
Modern printing technology has enabled the accurate printing of nearly any shape in a wide variety of materials, with many different printing methods to choose from. Selecting a print method will depend on the application, material, and budget used. Materials vary from almost any metal alloy, thermoplastics, ceramics, paper, edibles, rubbers, and clay. Printing methods include extrusion (heating material and forcing through a nozzle), powder bed (placing powdered material and using adhesive or melting to attach), and light polymerized (using UV light to polymerize material on a build plate). 3D Printers utilize an onboard controller to control the printer head and build plate in order to print each 2D layer in the right order and position. In addition, most 3D printers have downloadable software (slicers) that allows a user to position a 3D model on a virtual build platform, as well as adjust the printer’s settings for the build before sending the data to the printer. These 3D models used by the software can be generated using [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|CAD (computer-aided design)]] methods, laser scanning, or photogrammetry, although CAD is typically used in conjunction with the latter two to refine the output from these methods.

===3D printing===

*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner|3D Printing- Beginner]]
**Basic understanding of 3D printing and 3D printers
**Ability to slice and start a print on an Ultimaker 2+ printer
**Basic ability to troubleshoot a print
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|3D Printing- Intermediate]]
**Basic understanding of custom slicer settings and print orientation
**Basic understanding of print post processing
**Basic understanding of dual extrusion prints
**Basic understanding of different slicer software
**Intermediate understanding of printer functions
**Intermediate troubleshooting abilities
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Advanced|3D Printing- Advanced]]
**Ability to use all materials available at the Makerspace
**Ability to use all Makerspace printers
**Ability to print large components (print optimizations)
**Advanced understanding of 3D printing extrusion
**Proficient with UM2+ settings

===3D modeling (for 3D printing)===

*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|3D modeling- Beginner]]
**Basic knowledge of 3D modelling in TinkerCAD
**Basic knowledge of model modifications in TinkerCAD
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate|3D modeling- Intermediate]]
**Proficient 3D modelling skills in TinkerCAD
**Basic ability in parametric CAD modelling softwares
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced|3D modeling- Advanced]]
**Subdividing large models for 3D printing
**Basic understanding of one or more modelling softwares
**Basic understanding of 3D scanning and Scan to CAD

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser cutting resources]]==
Laser cutting uses a high-powered beam to cut material based on computer-controlled parameters. As the laser guides its beam along the material, everything in its direct path is vaporized, burned or melted. One of the benefits of laser cutting technology is the cut product rarely needs any finishing work as this process ensures a high-quality surface finish. A graphics software is used to import or create designs that are meant to be cut.

===Laser cutting===

*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner|Laser Cutting- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Intermediate|Laser Cutting- Intermediate]]
*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving|Rotary Laser Engraving]]

===Vector graphics editor===

*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Beginner|Vector Graphics- Beginner]]

*

==[[Digital technologies/Arduino|Arduino resources]]==
Arduino is an open-source electronics platform that provides an easy and accessible way to make robotics projects. The boards can receive input signals from sensors and produce outputs through its I/O pins. Arduino boards are used by a diverse set of people, including students, hobbyists, engineers, researchers due to the simple layout and programmability of the Arduino boards.

*[[Digital technologies/Arduino/Arduino- Beginner|Arduino- Beginner]]
** Basic understanding of programming
** Ability to control few components such as LEDs
** Basic understanding of how sensors work
** Basic understanding of the Arduino board

==[[Digital technologies/Soldering|Soldering resources]]==
Soldering allows you to create permanent/semi-permanent connection in any electrical circuit, this makes it ideal for later iterations of a project!
*[[Digital technologies/Soldering/Soldering- Beginner|Soldering- Beginner]]

==[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality|Virtual reality resources]]==

*[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality/Virtual reality- Beginner|Virtual Reality- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality/Unity Project Resources|Unity Project Resources]]

==[[Digital technologies/Textiles|Textile resources]]==

*[[Digital technologies/Textiles/Embroidery- Beginner|Embroidery- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Textiles/3D printing on Fabric|3D printing on Fabric]]
*[[Digital technologies/Textiles/Die-cutting using Cricut|Die-cutting using Cricut]]

==Other resources==

*[[Digital technologies/Raspberry Pi|Raspberry Pi]]
*[[Digital technologies/PCB milling machine|PCB milling machine]]
*[[Digital technologies/Vacuum Forming|Vacuum Forming]]
*[[Digital technologies/3D Scanning|3D Scanning]]

Digital technologies

2025-07-23T13:47:44Z

Jboud030:

Below you can find sections of different digital technologies, based on their level.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing|3D printing resources]]==
Modern printing technology has enabled the accurate printing of nearly any shape in a wide variety of materials, with many different printing methods to choose from. Selecting a print method will depend on the application, material, and budget used. Materials vary from almost any metal alloy, thermoplastics, ceramics, paper, edibles, rubbers, and clay. Printing methods include extrusion (heating material and forcing through a nozzle), powder bed (placing powdered material and using adhesive or melting to attach), and light polymerized (using UV light to polymerize material on a build plate). 3D Printers utilize an onboard controller to control the printer head and build plate in order to print each 2D layer in the right order and position. In addition, most 3D printers have downloadable software (slicers) that allows a user to position a 3D model on a virtual build platform, as well as adjust the printer’s settings for the build before sending the data to the printer. These 3D models used by the software can be generated using [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|CAD (computer-aided design)]] methods, laser scanning, or photogrammetry, although CAD is typically used in conjunction with the latter two to refine the output from these methods.

===3D printing===

*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner|3D Printing- Beginner]]
**Basic understanding of 3D printing and 3D printers
**Ability to slice and start a print on an Ultimaker 2+ printer
**Basic ability to troubleshoot a print
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|3D Printing- Intermediate]]
**Basic understanding of custom slicer settings and print orientation
**Basic understanding of print post processing
**Basic understanding of dual extrusion prints
**Basic understanding of different slicer software
**Intermediate understanding of printer functions
**Intermediate troubleshooting abilities
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Advanced|3D Printing- Advanced]]
**Ability to use all materials available at the Makerspace
**Ability to use all Makerspace printers
**Ability to print large components (print optimizations)
**Advanced understanding of 3D printing extrusion
**Proficient with UM2+ settings

===3D modeling (for 3D printing)===

*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|3D modeling- Beginner]]
**Basic knowledge of 3D modelling in TinkerCAD
**Basic knowledge of model modifications in TinkerCAD
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate|3D modeling- Intermediate]]
**Proficient 3D modelling skills in TinkerCAD
**Basic ability in parametric CAD modelling softwares
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced|3D modeling- Advanced]]
**Subdividing large models for 3D printing
**Basic understanding of one or more modelling softwares
**Basic understanding of 3D scanning and Scan to CAD

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser cutting resources]]==
Laser cutting uses a high-powered beam to cut material based on computer-controlled parameters. As the laser guides its beam along the material, everything in its direct path is vaporized, burned or melted. One of the benefits of laser cutting technology is the cut product rarely needs any finishing work as this process ensures a high-quality surface finish. A graphics software is used to import or create designs that are meant to be cut.

===Laser cutting===

*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner|Laser Cutting- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Intermediate|Laser Cutting- Intermediate]]
*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving|Rotary Laser Engraving]]

===Vector graphics editor===

*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Beginner|Vector Graphics- Beginner]]

*

==[[Digital technologies/Arduino|Arduino resources]]==
Arduino is an open-source electronics platform that provides an easy and accessible way to make robotics projects. The boards can receive input signals from sensors and produce outputs through its I/O pins. Arduino boards are used by a diverse set of people, including students, hobbyists, engineers, researchers due to the simple layout and programmability of the Arduino boards.

*[[Digital technologies/Arduino/Arduino- Beginner|Arduino- Beginner]]
** Basic understanding of programming
** Ability to control few components such as LEDs
** Basic understanding of how sensors work
** Basic understanding of the Arduino board

==[[Digital technologies/Soldering|Soldering resources]]==
Soldering allows you to create permanent/semi-permanent connection in any electrical circuit, this makes it ideal for later iterations of a project!
*[[Digital technologies/Soldering/Soldering- Beginner|Soldering- Beginner]]

==[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality|Virtual reality resources]]==

*[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality/Virtual reality- Beginner|Virtual Reality- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality/Unity Project Resources|Unity Project Resources]]

==[[Digital technologies/Textiles|Textile resources]]==

*[[Digital technologies/Textiles/Embroidery- Beginner|Embroidery- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Textiles/3D printing on Fabric|3D printing on Fabric]]
*[[Die-cutting using Cricut]]

==Other resources==

*[[Raspberry Pi]]
*[[PCB milling machine]]
*[[Digital technologies/Vacuum Forming|Vacuum Forming]]
*[[Digital technologies/3D Scanning|3D Scanning]]

Professional development

2025-07-23T13:45:20Z

Jboud030: /* Design thinking resources */

Below you can find sections of different professional development subjects.

==Design thinking resources==

*[[Professional development/Design thinking/Detailed designs|Detailed designs]]
*[[Professional development/Design thinking/Design for manufacturing|Design for manufacturing]]
*[[Professional development/Design thinking/Software prototyping and tools|Software prototyping and tools]]
*[[Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech|Assistive Tech]]
*[[Web-based collaborative design tools]]
*[[Shafting]]
*[[Engineering Drawings]]

==Entrepreneurship basics resources==

==Project management resources==

*[[GNG tips and tricks]]
*[[Professional development/Project management/Purchasing Guide|Purchasing Guide]]
*[[Professional development/Project management/Refund Guide|Refund Guide]]
*[[Professional development/Project management/Wrike guide|Wrike Guide]]
*[[Professional development/Project management/MS Project Guide|MS Project Guide]]
*[[Professional development/Project management/Word Submission Guide|Word Submission Guide]]

==Effective communication resources==
<br />

Assistive Tech

2025-07-23T13:43:58Z

Jboud030: Jboud030 moved page Assistive Tech to Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech

#REDIRECT [[Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech]]

Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech Resources

2025-07-23T13:43:58Z

Jboud030: Jboud030 moved page Assistive Tech to Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech

AT (assistive technology) resources are online tools to help users navigate different learning content and information regarding devices designed for accessibility.

==Accessibility Design Considerations==
Ensure that when you design your UI for clients having <u>accessibility needs</u>, you take into considerations the colours you use.

*[http://colorsafe.co/ This website] and [https://webaim.org/resources/contrastchecker/ this website] based on the Web Content Accessibility Guidelines (WCAG) is a ''great'' resource that was suggested by a client who works in accessibility!
*[https://accessibility.blog.gov.uk/2016/09/02/dos-and-donts-on-designing-for-accessibility/ This website] also has great infographics for do’s and don'ts on designing for different accessibility groups.
*[http://www.sussex.ac.uk/tel/resource/tel_website/accessiblecontrast/?q=FFFFFF~003b49~1d4289~94a596~e56db1~d3273e~00bfb2~d6d2c4~ffc845~dc582a~41b6e6~1b365d~be84a3~5d3754~7da1c4~f2c75c~d0d3d4~007a78~000000 This University of Sussex page] with a few pre-loaded colours can be a very useful tool for this as well. Notice how the [http://www.sussex.ac.uk/tel/resource/tel_website/accessiblecontrast/?q=8f001a~ffffff uOttawa official backdrop colour scores well with white text].
*[https://www.color-blindness.com/coblis-color-blindness-simulator/ This website] allows you to upload a picture and see it through the eyes of someone with colour blindness.

===Different Types of Switches===
[[File:Switches.webp|thumb|Assessment switch kit from [https://www.inclusive.com/collections/hardware-switch-access-technology?srsltid=AfmBOor5k2U9DGBf6fpfp51f0ttOojLUWdYBH8VR1NSEDCSKCr3rWfbH inclusive.com]]]
A switch is an accessibility tool that can be used to control technology such as computers, smartphones, communication aids, powered wheelchairs, light switches, etc. They are used for people who have limitations in mobility or cognition. Because a switch only has the option of yes/on or no/off, it allows for more precise communication.

The following links are to websites that explain the differences between multiple types of switches. This should be your first step when determining what switch you will use in your design.
* [https://www.perkins.org/resource/introduction-7-common-adaptive-switches/ Introduction to 7 common adaptive switches]
* [https://www.testdevlab.com/blog/adaptive-switches-and-switch-access-in-accessibility-testing Adaptive switches and switch access in accessibility testing]
[[File:Auxcord.jpg|thumb|Example of aux cord from [https://bltt.org/switch-access/ better living through technology]]]

==== Aux Port Cords ====
Many designs for accessibility involve an aux cord to maneuver switch devices. It’s important to consider that each client or user that will use your prototype will have different needs when it comes to their abilities. Keep in mind of this and ensure you are using as many universally adaptive subsystems as possible like the [https://www.newegg.ca/satellitesale-3-ft-stereo-cables/p/1BJ-007D-00029 Universal aux cord].

[https://www.inclusive.com/collections/hardware-switch-access-technology The Inclusive website] and [https://enablingdevices.com/product-category/switches/ Enabling devices] show a variety of switches and materials to use them.

== Makers Making Change ==
[[File:MMC logo.png|thumb|200x200px|Makers Making Change logo]]

=== Resources ===
Makers making change has many resources for assistive tech. This is a list of beginner friendly tutorials and guides for you to get started on projects.
*[https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/3D_Printing// 3D Printing]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/Arduino// Arduino]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/CAD// CAD]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/_pages/Git_Hub// GitHub]
[[File:MMC library example.jpg|thumb|240x240px|Examples of accessibility aids made my Makers Making Change.]]

=== Assistive Devices ===
Makers Making Change also has a website that includes a [https://www.makersmakingchange.com/s/assistive-devices Library] of assistive devices they have had volunteers create for people. This is a great resource for assisting in the design process as well as benchmarking and prototyping existing products.

They have many more Open AT resources that can be explored through this link to their homepage [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/?mc%20cid=49f86fff41. Here]

== Instructables ==
[https://www.instructables.com/ Instructables] is a website that combines tips & tricks of different tools with workshops, designs, crafts, and more! They integrate learning with hands on examples just like your labs!

You can search up any key words like [https://www.instructables.com/search/?q=assistive%20tech&projects=featured Assistive tech] and filter through different tools such as laser cutting and 3D printing.

== Resource Library for Inclusion & Accessibility ==
The Rick Hansen Foundation has an online library full of e-books, lessons, activities, videos, and more on the importance of accessibility. This is a great resource for empathy and perspective for GNG 2101 projects. The library is completely free for anyone to use and can be accessed [https://www.rickhansen.com/schools-communities/resource-library Here].

Professional development/Design thinking/Assistive Tech Resources

2025-07-21T19:26:57Z

Jboud030:

AT (assistive technology) resources are online tools to help users navigate different learning content and information regarding devices designed for accessibility.

==Accessibility Design Considerations==
Ensure that when you design your UI for clients having <u>accessibility needs</u>, you take into considerations the colours you use.

*[http://colorsafe.co/ This website] and [https://webaim.org/resources/contrastchecker/ this website] based on the Web Content Accessibility Guidelines (WCAG) is a ''great'' resource that was suggested by a client who works in accessibility!
*[https://accessibility.blog.gov.uk/2016/09/02/dos-and-donts-on-designing-for-accessibility/ This website] also has great infographics for do’s and don'ts on designing for different accessibility groups.
*[http://www.sussex.ac.uk/tel/resource/tel_website/accessiblecontrast/?q=FFFFFF~003b49~1d4289~94a596~e56db1~d3273e~00bfb2~d6d2c4~ffc845~dc582a~41b6e6~1b365d~be84a3~5d3754~7da1c4~f2c75c~d0d3d4~007a78~000000 This University of Sussex page] with a few pre-loaded colours can be a very useful tool for this as well. Notice how the [http://www.sussex.ac.uk/tel/resource/tel_website/accessiblecontrast/?q=8f001a~ffffff uOttawa official backdrop colour scores well with white text].
*[https://www.color-blindness.com/coblis-color-blindness-simulator/ This website] allows you to upload a picture and see it through the eyes of someone with colour blindness.

===Different Types of Switches===
The following links are to websites that explain the differences between multiple types of switches. This should be your first step when determining what switch you will use in your design.
* [https://www.perkins.org/resource/introduction-7-common-adaptive-switches/ Introduction to 7 common adaptive switches]
* [https://www.testdevlab.com/blog/adaptive-switches-and-switch-access-in-accessibility-testing Adaptive switches and switch access in accessibility testing]
=== Aux Port Cords ===
Many designs for accessibility involve an aux cord to maneuver switch devices. It’s important to consider that each client or user that will use your prototype will have different needs when it comes to their abilities. Keep in mind of this and ensure you are using as many universally adaptive subsystems as possible like the [https://www.newegg.ca/satellitesale-3-ft-stereo-cables/p/1BJ-007D-00029 Universal aux cord].

[https://www.inclusive.com/collections/hardware-switch-access-technology The Inclusive website] and [https://enablingdevices.com/product-category/switches/ Enabling devices] show a variety of switches and materials to use them.

== Makers Making Change ==
=== Resources ===
Makers making change has many resources for assistive tech. This is a list of beginner friendly tutorials and guides for you to get started on projects.
*[https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/%20pages/3D%20Printing/ 3D Printing]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/%20pages/Arduino/ Arduino]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/%20pages/CAD/ CAD]
* [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/%20pages/Git%20Hub/ GitHub]

=== Assistive Devices ===
Makers Making Change also has a website that includes a [https://www.makersmakingchange.com/s/assistive-devices Library] of assistive devices they have had volunteers create for people. This is a great resource for assisting in the design process as well as benchmarking and prototyping existing products.

They have many more Open AT resources that can be explored through this link to their homepage [https://makersmakingchange.github.io/OpenAT-Resources/?mc%20cid=49f86fff41. Here]

== Instructables ==
[https://www.instructables.com/ Instructables] is a website that combines tips & tricks of different tools with workshops, designs, crafts, and more! They integrate learning with hands on examples just like your labs!

You can search up any key words like [https://www.instructables.com/search/?q=assistive%20tech&projects=featured Assistive tech] and filter through different tools such as laser cutting and 3D printing.

== Resource Library for Inclusion & Accessibility ==
The Rick Hansen Foundation has an online library full of e-books, lessons, activities, videos, and more on the importance of accessibility. This is a great resource for empathy and perspective for GNG 2101 projects. The library is completely free for anyone to use and can be accessed [https://www.rickhansen.com/schools-communities/resource-library Here].

Digital technologies/3D Scanning

2025-06-12T16:32:18Z

Jboud030:

3D scanning is the technology of creating a 3D mesh from some mix of scanning techniques. Most 3D scanners use structured light or laser triangulation to scan what they see and use photogrammetry to create the 3D mesh by combining all the 2D scans together. The mesh can be used to create 3D models of various things and applications. For example, scanning a limb to create a custom prosthetic or scanning components to design a custom case, etc. At the makerspace we have the EinScan Pro X2020 which uses laser triangulation to take 2D scans of an object, and its paired with the EinScan software which complies everything together. Both require the other to work properly but the raw scan files can be imported to other post-processing software as needed.

== How does it work? ==
The EinScan Pro x2020 can be used in a few ways. There's the fixed scan mode, where the scanner remains stationary, and the object is rotated in front of it to get all the sides. Or it can be used in handheld mode, with the scanner being moved around the object and the object remaining stationary. Either way, the software will take all those pictures and create point clouds which can be used to create a 3D mesh of the object. Within the scanning software, light post processing can be done to modify the mesh as needed before exporting it as whatever file type is needed for the next step in the process. This step varies depending on what you are trying to do with the 3D scan.

== Files Types ==
3D scanning by default creates point clouds when scanning. These point clouds are then connected to create a mesh. The raw point clouds can be brought into other software's for post processing, but normally the resulting mesh is the file that is imported and exported between software's. However, directly from the EinScan software, as well as most 3<sup>rd</sup> party software's, the mesh can be exported as other file types like .asc, .stl, .ply, .obj, .3mf and more. For example, to directly print the model it should be exported as an .stl. However if more post processing was to be done or modified in another CAD(computer-aided design) software it could be exported as a .3mf file.

== 3D Scanning in MakerSpace ==
Generally in the MakerSpace, doing a 3D scan consists of choosing a scan type, preparing the scan in the software, prepping the object itself, and scanning the object. The resulting scan can be cleaned up at a basic level in the EinScan software and then exported to a stronger post-processing software for further processing.

=== What Scanner do we have? ===
In the MakerSpace, we have the EinScan Pro 2X 2020 from shining 3D. like the other tools in the space it is free to use and the required software's to use it are provided in the

The EinScan Pro 2X 2020 handheld scanner has a scan area of 150 × 120 mm—250 × 200 mm and works at a minimum point distance of 0.2 mm. It can catch accurate details of either small and medium-sized objects: from 3 to 100 cm in tripod mode and from 30 to 100 cm when handheld.

=== Choosing Scan type ===
When the EinScan software is opened, a scanning method must be chosen. Either fixed or handheld.

A Fixed scan keeps the scanner stationary while the object is rotated on the supplied rotating plate. A Handheld scan keeps the object stationary, and it is the scanner that gets moved around to capture multiple scans from different angles. For smaller objects the Fixed mode should be used whereas for larger objects, the handheld mode should be used.

Further, there's handheld HD scan and handheld Rapid scan. The rapid scan captures less points per second but captures more scans per second so it will create a lower quality but more complete scan faster than the HD scan.

Overall, they are used in the same way. Stationary object, moving scanner.

=== Turntable settings ===
During a fixed scan, the object is placed on a turntable that automatically rotates so that the scanner can capture multiples scans from different angles. The number of steps in the full rotation is user set when prepping the scan. A smaller number of steps takes less time but may result in rougher scan quality (as it has less individual scans to take so less data to use). A higher number of steps will take longer but increase the quality of the scan (as there are more scans to help piece together the overall 3D mesh). A good rule of thumb is to start low around 6-10 and increase the steps as needed if the quality of the scan is too low.

When setting up a object on the turntable, make sure the object is centered on the turn table and is fully viewed by the preview of the scanner. Also verify that is it properly supported to the turntable and that it won’t slip as it turns. If it will, use some sticky tack to temporarily stick the object down.

=== HDR (High Dynamic Range) Settings ===
The HDR (high dynamic range) settings alter the level of contrast that the scanner will use to detect an object as it flashes light during the scans. A lower HDR won’t pick up as much contrasting details. There is a preview in the program that shows what will most likely get picked up shown in red that can be used to ensure the object being scanned is properly captured. In short, if there are more colours, a higher HDR should be chosen to ensure they all get properly scanned.

How to pay for an Order

2025-05-23T17:51:41Z

Jboud030:

If you have ordered a job, here is how you can pay for your it once it has been completed.

You will receive an email when the job is done so that you can pay for it and come pick it up. To pay please follow the steps below:

== If you are an undergrad student or community member ==
Back in Makerepo there should be an option to pay with credit card directly when your order will be marked as complete. If it is not working, you want to pay cash, or you are using a discount code, you can pay for the order through the store.
#Go to [https://makerstore.ca/ makerstore.ca].[[File:Makerstore home page.png|alt=Makerstore home page|none|thumb|Makerstore home page]]
#Click on the search icon and type 'services'. Choose the item 'Makerspace services'.[[File:Makerstore search.png|alt=Makerstore search bar at the top of the page|none|thumb|Makerstore search bar]]
#Add the right amount of each denomination based on your quote.[[File:Makerspace services item.png|alt=Makerspace services item in the makerstore|none|thumb|Makerspace services item]]<br />
##For example, if your quote is $17.81, then you would have a service with a denomination of $1 with a quantity of 17, a second service with a denomination of $0.10 with a quantity of 8 and a last service with a denomination of $0.01 with a quantity of 1. Alternatively you could have a service with a denomination of $0.01 with a quantity of 81 instead of having both $0.10 and $0.01.[[File:Store services cart.png|alt=Store cart|none|thumb|Store cart]]

== If you are a researcher or faculty ==
You can pay for the order via journal entry, please send an email to makerspace@uottawa.ca with a budget code (FDM).

== Thank you for ordering with the uOttawa Richard L'Abbé Makerspace! ==

File:Store services cart.png

2025-05-23T17:50:53Z

Jboud030:

Store cart

File:Makerspace services item.png

2025-05-23T17:49:24Z

Jboud030:

Makerspace services item

File:Makerstore home page.png

2025-05-23T17:48:08Z

Jboud030:

Makerstore home page

File:Makerstore search.png

2025-05-23T17:46:42Z

Jboud030:

Makerstore search bar

How to pay for an Order

2025-05-13T18:50:46Z

Jboud030:

If you have ordered a job, here is how you can pay for your it once it has been completed.

You will receive an email when the job is done so that you can pay for it and come pick it up. To pay please follow the steps below:

== If you are an undergrad student or community member ==
Back in Makerepo there should be an option to pay with credit card directly when your order will be marked as complete. If it is not working, you want to pay cash, or you are using a discount code, you can pay for the order through the store.
#Go to [https://makerstore.ca/ makerstore.ca].
#Click on the search icon and type 'services'. Choose the item 'Makerspace services'.
#Add the right amount of each denomination based on your quote.[[File:Store charge.jpg|none|thumb|Store charge]]<br />
##For example, if your quote is $17.81, then you would have a service with a denomination of $1 with a quantity of 17, a second service with a denomination of $0.10 with a quantity of 8 and a last service with a denomination of $0.01 with a quantity of 1. Alternatively you could have a service with a denomination of $0.01 with a quantity of 81 instead of having both $0.10 and $0.01.[[File:Store cart.jpg|none|thumb|Store cart]]

== If you are a researcher or faculty ==
You can pay for the order via journal entry, please send an email to makerspace@uottawa.ca with a FOAP.

== Thank you for ordering with the uOttawa Richard L'Abbé Makerspace! ==

Professional development/Project management/Refund Guide

2024-12-03T17:22:25Z

Jboud030:

Professional development/Project management/Refund Guide

2024-12-03T16:59:34Z

Jboud030:

If you are doing a project for GNG (or CEED) you can get a refund for the materials you have purchased.

==Conditions==
'''Please note''' that there are 2 main conditions you have to fulfil to receive your refund:

*Have a completed makerepo submission:
**All design files (project dependent)
***3D CAD files (onshape projects, solidworks parts and assemblies, STLs, etc)
***2D vector files (CAD drawings, inkscape files, etc)
***Mechanical assemblies (hand drawn, CAD assembly, etc)
***Circuit assemblies (hand drawn, tinkercad circuits, etc)
***Code (in text format, not a picture)
***Make sure any links have the correct sharing permissions
**User manual (includes BOM with appropriate links and assembly/usage instructions)
***
*Bring back the project (if applicable) and any extra materials that were bought but not used in the prototype

==Guidelines==
===Receipts===

*The receipt needs to be in the same name as the person requesting the refund
*The receipt needs to include a payment method (cash, mastercard, etc), these are usually receipts labeled as invoices
**If it does not then a credit card statement is needed as proof of payment
*Anything paid other then Canadian currency needs to be accompanied by a credit card statement
*If a receipt is lost there is a lost receipt form that can be submitted: https://uottawa.sharepoint.com/sites/CentreforEntrepreneurshipandEngineeringDesign/_layouts/15/guestaccess.aspx?share=EUCKUM_a2ptInWHt7G-s8KkBfGnQsx-nuyXmm1Zsbcf8Zw&e=qvHLFH

===Form===
Receipts need to be included with the following reimbursement form, only the yellow areas need to be filled. Download the file and fill it on your computer.

*Vendor ID= your student number
*Name= your name
*Address= current address. The address should be written properly. The example below would be the address for Makerlab 1:
119-150 Louis-Pasteur Private
Ottawa ON K1N 6N5
You may use the [https://www.canadapost-postescanada.ca/info/mc/personal/postalcode/fpc.jsf Canada Post Website] to obtain the proper format for your address.
*Each receipt is 1 line in the table, the description includes the name of the store
**For example: the first line can be 'Amazon- DC motor' and the second could be 'Home depot- screws and brackets'
*Sub-total= the sub-total of the receipt without taxes, it can include shipping
*Tax total= only the tax amount of the receipt
*Total amount= sub-total + tax total
*Authorized signature is you, approved signature is the lab manager
*Remarks= course + group number + short description of project
**For example: GNG2101 A1- device to automatically brake a wheelchair if a user gets up

Send the form and receipts to your project manager, submitted in 1 PDF document with multiple pages. They will then get sent to the lab manager.
<pdf width="1000" height="1000">File:Reqforpayment_fillable.pdf</pdf>

==Payment==
The previously mentioned conditions need to be completed and verified before a refund can be processed. The refund form and receipts must also be complete.
'''Please note''' that it can take up to 2+ months to get the refund.

The payment will be made by direct deposit so we also need a void cheque and the following form (if you are not already in the system).
<pdf width="1000" height="1000">File:Direct deposit_person_fillable.pdf</pdf>

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner

2024-11-08T19:24:46Z

Jboud030: /* Materials Allowed and Recommended Settings */

This video shows a short overview of the laser cutting process with an Epilog laser:

<youtube>LKQHrN4QkOw</youtube>

Laser cutting is a technology that uses light amplification by stimulation of emitted radiation or, a laser, to vector or raster stock material. The material removal required to obtain a cut or a raster is obtained by a process called thermal separation. In industry, and depending on the materials involved, the lasers used in the laser cutting process greatly range in power. At the uOttawa Makerspace, depending on the machine, the lasers may output either 50 or 60 watts of ultraviolet light, which can be used to cut through many woods, plastics, and other materials of lesser density. The principle is fairly simple: the laser generated by the machine is reflected to a focusing head, which in turn focuses the power contained in the ultraviolet beam to a small point on the stock, inducing the desired thermal separation. The power of the laser as well as the focusing head path is then adjusted by software to obtain one of two modes of cut: rastering and vectoring.

'''<u>[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Tutorial: How to Laser Cut|If you only need a quick tutorial without going in depth into the subject matter, you can find it by clicking on this link.]]</u>'''
==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner/How does Laser Cutting Work?|How does Laser Cutting Work?]]==
It is important to understand that the laser from a laser cutter does not directly cut material, and that it works by leveraging the concepts of optic bending and focusing to orient and focus the laser’s power to a single point in or on the stock material. The focal length of the lens in the machine’s focusing head assembly is therefore an important variable to take into consideration for lasering, and as an operator, the distance of the focusing lens to the stock material must be taken into account if you wish to obtain good results. Always remember to focus your laser. Thankfully, laser cutting machines usually come with a focusing tool of sorts to assist operators with the setup of a lasering job.

It is important to remember that a laser cutter focusing head can only move along the X-Y plane. While this may seem like a limitation at first, the focusing head’s movements are very precise and allow for the manufacturing of parts that contain special assembly features, which in turn easily mesh together to result in complex 3-dimensional structures. A good example of such a feature is that which can be seen on-screen. This part holds together by what are called finger joints. Keep in mind that making this part on a laser cutter instead of a 3D printer or a manual milling machine can greatly reduce both manufacturing time and costs.
<gallery mode="slideshow" caption="Examples of design fabricated with a laser cutter">
File:Laser1.png
File:Laser2.png
File:Laser3.png
File:Laser4.png
File:Laser5.png
</gallery>
[[File:Vector+Cutting+Vector+Etching+Raster+Etching.jpg|thumb|Difference between vectoring and rastering]]
=== Rastering ===
Rastering consists of superficially removing material from stock, resulting in an embossed feature. Rastering is applied to a component in a fashion similar to that of an inkjet printer, where a print head moves quickly back and forth printing a thin line at a time. Rastering is a type of engraving, where top layers of the material are removed to create a depression in the material. You will know the laser is rastering because it is moving back and forth like a regular 2D printer. Our laser has a built in setting that distributes the power settings over different shades. This means that a darker shade will look darker because it received more power when rastered. Think of it like a black and white printer.
=== Vectoring ===
Vectoring consists of following vector lines specified in your program. Vectoring is most often used to cut through a material. However, at lower settings it can also be used to engrave. Instead of moving back and forth, the laser is following a “vector”. A vector is a line with a specified direction and magnitude. In other words, a line that connects two points. Our laser has a point of 0.001” (0.0254 mm) in diameter. For a line to be recognized as a vector, the line width has to be the size of the point. We will explain how to do this further in this document.

== [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner/Laser Cutter Components|Laser Cutter Components]] ==
In order to use a laser cutter, there are 4 parts that need to be available:

*Laser Cutter: Machine that will cut the material
*Computer: The computer is used to upload the design that need to be cut to the laser. It is also used to configure all the necessary setting of the laser.
*Air Filter: The filter should always be attached while performing a cut, the laser cutter is not to be used without the filter, this ensures that the air in the room is safe for users and limits potentially hazardous debris
*Air Compressor (compressed air): A steady flow of air to blow smoke and cutting residue away from the beam path and optics of a laser cutter. It's simple, but critical; without it, smoke can obscure and reflect the laser beam, foul lenses and mirrors, and severely degrade cut quality.
===Control Panel===
One way for the user to interact with the laser is by using the control panel. The list below describe the properties of each button found in the laser cutter control panel.
[[File:Job Manager.png|thumb|469x469px|The Epilog Laser cutter dashboard|alt=]]
#'''Go:'''Start or stop a job or process
#'''Stop:''' Stop a process. When rastering it will stop right away. When vectoring it will only stop once it has finished its current path
#'''Reset:''' Moved the head back to its current home
#'''Set Home:''' Sets the zero point or starting point of the laser
#'''X/Y Off:''' Press this button and then go to disengage the motors and move the laser head around manually
#'''Pointer:''' Turn on the red light pointer
#'''Focus:''' Press this button then either the up or down button to raise or lower the bed. Using this process along with the focussing tool, you can focus the laser.
#∆'''/'''∇:Cycle through the jobs or raise or lower the power, speed, or bed height
#'''Power:''' While rastering you can adjust the power by pushing this button on using the arrow keys
#'''Speed:''' While rastering you can adjust the speed by pushing this button on using the arrow keys

===Properties===
The other way for the user to interact with the laser cutter is by setting up the laser properties for a cut.
[[File:Properties1.png|thumb|555x555px|Properties page|alt=]]
#'''Resolution:'''The print resolution can set from 75 to 1200 Dots per inch(DPI).the higher the DPI the more time it takes for laser cutter to complete the job.
#'''Auto Focus:'''In the Makerspace we use a manual focus instead of Auto Focus. Please, <u>'''NEVER'''</u> check the box, it will make the bed crash into the laser head
#'''Centre Engraving:''' it allows you to define the centre of the job.
#'''Job type'''
##'''Raster:'''Used for engraving material.Vector lines that should be engraved should be set to 0.006” (0.152 mm) or greater line thickness.
##'''Vector:''' Select when running cuts only. Vector lines that should be cut have to be set to 0.001” (0.0254 mm) or else it won’t recognized as cut.
##'''Combined:''' Select when running both cutting and engraving.
#'''Piece size:''' Enter the size of the document size of the job.
#'''Raster Settings:'''
##'''Speed:''' Determines the travel speed of the laser.It can be increased increments of 1%.The lower the speed,the deeper the cut.Each materials have their own specific value and can be in “Suggested Material settings” which islocated next to the laser cutters in Makerspace.
##'''Power:''' Determines the amount of laser energy that is delivered to the piece being cut/engraved and is adjustable in 1% increments.Each materials have their own specific value and can be in “Suggested Material settings” which is located next to the laser cutters in Makerspace.
#'''Vector Settings:'''
##'''Speed:''' Determines the travel speed of the laser.It can be increased increments of 1%.The lower the speed,the deeper the cut.Each materials have their own specific value and can be in “Suggested Material settings” which is located next to the laser cutters in Makerspace.
##'''Power:''' Determines the amount of laser energy that is delivered to the piece being cut/engraved and is adjustable in 1% increments.Each materials have their own specific value and can be in “Suggested Material settings” which is located next to the laser cutters in Makerspace.
##'''Frequency:''' Determines the number of laser pulses per inch of cut.Lower the frequency,the less heat being applied to the material. The frequency can range between 1 to 5000..Each materials have their own specific value and can be in “Suggested Material settings” which is located next to the laser cutters in Makerspace.

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner/Which Laser Cutters do we have?|Which Laser Cutters do we have?]]==
The pictures below shows the laser cutters available for use at the Makerspace. The biggest difference between the two laser is the build volume and power. The Epilog Helix can cut materials with a maximum size of 24 x 18 in and is more powerful while the Epilog mini can cut with a maximum size of 24 x 12 and has slightly less power.

{{LaserInfobox
| name = Epilog Mini 24
| image = mini24.jpg
| powerSource = CO2
| powerRating = 50W
| materials = see charts below
| maxResolution = 1200
|float=none|buildWidth=610|buildDepth=305|buildHeight=140|buildWidthIN=24|buildDepthIN=12|buildHeightIN=5.5}}
{{LaserInfobox
| name = Epilog Helix
| image = helix.png
| powerSource = CO2
| powerRating = 60W
| materials = see charts below
| maxResolution = 1200
|float=none|buildWidth=610|buildDepth=457|buildHeight=216|buildWidthIN=24|buildDepthIN=18|buildHeightIN=8.5}}

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner/Laser Safety|Laser Safety]]==
<youtube>rjiHHtYY53M</youtube>
*In operation there is a laser diode pointer (red dot pointer), this is similar to a laser pen but it should never be directed into anyone's eyes. The actual laser beam that will be cutting is invisible so never modify the enclosure.
*The filter should always be attached while performing a cut, the laser cutter is not to be used without the filter, this ensures that the air in the room is safe for users and limits potentially hazardous debris
*The laser can cut many materials but some materials that can be hazardous or dangerous to cut (ex. the small dust particles of MDF are cancer causing).
*Never let the laser system operate unattended.
*Always use the air compressor (located below the table or on the wall) to provide sufficient airflow for the cut.
*A vector cut moves much slower than a raster engrave therefore a lot of heat is being applied to the material for a longer time, which may cause it to combust.
*Make sure you know where the fire extinguisher is (on the red wall) and the closest emergency exit.
*Always remove debris from crumb tray after machine use to prevent fires.
*Never disassemble the machine or remove protective covers. Never open the machines access panels while unit is plugged in. The AC input to the Epilog Laser is potentially lethal and fully contained in the cabinet.

'''Tips: There are a few important safety features incorporated into the laser cutter. Placed on the glass lid is a magnetic switch. If the lid is opened while the laser is running, the lense mechanism will keep moving, but the laser will stop firing. This means that it is very difficult (if not impossible) to burn yourself with the laser. A similar mechanism is incorporated into the front door.'''

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner/Material Settings|Material Settings]]==
===Materials not allowed in the CO<sub>2</sub> laser===
Some materials should never be used in the laser as they may cause the release of toxic fumes. Other factors, such as fire hazards and excessive melting, can also make a material undesirable for cutting. Please consult the list below to know if your materials are allowed on the machine. '''If a material is unlisted in the table below and in the allowed materials list, please consult a Makerspace employee''' '''for further guidance.'''
{| class="wikitable"
|+Disallowed Materials<ref>http://wiki.atxhs.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials</ref>
!Material
!DANGER!
!Cause/Consequence
|-
|PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
|Emits chlorine gas when cut!
|Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, causes the metal of the machine to corrode as chlorine is released and ruins the motion control system.
|-
|Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
|Cuts very poorly, discolors, catches fire
|Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because ''polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation!'' This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting. It creates long stringy clouds of soot that float up, ruin the optics and mess up the machine.
|-
|ABS
|Melts / Cyanide
|ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt). Cutting ABS plastic emits hydrogen cyanide, which is unsafe at any concentration.
|-
|HDPE/milk bottle plastic
|Catches fire and melts
|It melts. It gets gooey. It catches fire. Don't use it.
|-
|PolyStyrene Foam
|Catches fire
|It catches fire quickly, burns rapidly, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
|-
|PolyPropylene Foam
|Catches fire
|Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.
|-
|Epoxy
|burn / smoke
|Epoxy is an aliphatic resin, strongly cross-linked carbon chains. A CO2 laser can't cut it, and the resulting burned mess creates toxic fumes ( like cyanide! ). Items coated in Epoxy, or cast Epoxy resins must not be used in the laser cutter. ( see Fiberglass )
|-
|Fiberglass
|Emits fumes
|It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)
|-
|Coated Carbon Fiber
|Emits noxious fumes
|A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.
|-
|Any foodstuff ( such as meat, seaweed 'nori' sheets, cookie dough, bread, tortillas... )
|The laser is not designed to cut food, and people cut things that create poisonous/noxious substances such as wood smoke and acrylic smoke.
|If you want to cut foodstuffs, consider sponsoring a food-only laser cutter for the space that is kept as clean as a commercial kitchen would require.
|-
|Material with Sticky Glue Backing
|Coats lens, cracks lens
|There are many '''normally''' laserable items such as thin wood laminates that you can purchase that become un-cuttable when the manufacturer adds a layer of peel-off glue on the bottom to attach them to surfaces. Examples include cork tiles, thin wood laminate, acrylic tiles, and paper stickers. Never cut these materials in the laser cutter if they have this backing. The glue will vaporize forming a coating on the lens that will coat it, cloud it, heat it, and then potentially crack the lens. The glue residue is worse than resin, and can't be removed without risking damage to the lens ... requiring a lens replacement.
|}

===Materials Allowed and Recommended Settings===
Epilog (the company that manufactures the laser) has an extensive list of materials that you can cut with their lasers. Simply consult Appendix B in the [https://www.epiloglaser.ca/assets/downloads/manuals/legend-manual-web.pdf Owner's Manual for the Mini/Helix] (p.143) to get access to that list. Make sure you use the settings for the laser you are planning to use (50 Watts VS 60 Watts). Here are some extra materials that are unlisted but have been proven to work at these settings:
{| class="wikitable"
|+Proven Settings for some Unlisted Materials
!Material
!<nowiki>Cutting Settings (Power | Speed)</nowiki>
!<nowiki>Raster Settings, 600DPI (Power | Speed)</nowiki>
!Frequency (Hz)
!Comments
|-
|Felt Sheet w/ Adhesive Backing
(McMaster-Carr P/N: 87415K51) (60W laser)
|<nowiki>11% | 3%</nowiki>
|<nowiki>10% | 8%</nowiki>
|400
|Leaves a bit of a smell. The edges may become a little burnt.
|-
|Neoprene w/ Adhesive Backing
(McMaster-Carr P/N: 8445K72) (60W laser)
|<nowiki>100% | 20%</nowiki>
|N/A
|175
|Dirties the machine quite a bit when this material is cut (generates large amounts of soot). Please limit use. While this rubber contains some amount of chlorine, the quantity of chlorine gas released is minor when the material is cut. Note that this materials generates quite a large flame.
|-
|[https://craftenablers.com/collections/siser-easyweed-heat-transfer-vinyl-htv Polyurethane base vinyl for adhering to shirts] (50W laser)
|<nowiki>11% | 80%</nowiki>
| rowspan="2" |N/A
|500
| rowspan="2" |The point is not to cut through the plastic sheeting under the vinyl. Make sure you invert your design file! If you want to cut through the plastic, boost the power to 24% on the 60W laser or 23% on the 50W laser (both of these at 80% speed). Using a flat sheet of MDF under the vinyl will be very beneficial (the static electricity will help the vinyl sheet remain flat)
|-
|[https://craftenablers.com/collections/siser-easyweed-heat-transfer-vinyl-htv Polyurethane base vinyl for adhering to shirts] (60W laser)
|<nowiki>4% | 20%</nowiki>
|5000
|-
|1/8in 2-ply engravable plastic, [https://shop.troteclaser.com/en-CA/product/trolase-gloss-blackwhite-l42220x/01t4I00004kImNZQA0 Trolase] (60W laser)
|<nowiki>90-100% | 22%</nowiki>
|<nowiki>55-60% | 85-90%</nowiki>
|100-500
|Always raster with bottom-up settings
|}

== [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner/How to Laser Cut in the Makerspace|How to Laser Cut in the Makerspace]] ==
To be able to laser cut at the makerspace we require that you either:

*Attend a laser cutting workshop
*Attend a walk-in training session
*Are under the direct supervision of someone who has received training

Before the using the laser cutter, please read the previous section on laser safety. All the information in this document can also be found in the [https://www.epiloglaser.com/downloads/pdf/mini_helix_4.22.10.pdf OWNER'S MANUAL FOR EPILOG MINI/HELIX.]

The following instructions are for the Mini and Helix machines, please see this page for instructions for the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner/How to Laser Cut in the Makerspace/Zing|Zing]].

The laser cutting process is as follows:

#Prepare your file and select your material
#Move your file to the laser cutter computer (you may use one of the many USB keys owned by the Makerspace)
#Turn on laser cutter setup
#Prepare laser cutter
#Click print and select print settings
#Start the cut
#Turn off laser cutter setup
# Clean up

<youtube>MVd7nXI24x8</youtube>

===Prepare your file and select your material ===
Before you are going to start laser cutting, you need to get some prep work out of the way. First you need to create or select your file. If you are rastering an image, you can select or create an image in any program or use an existing picture. If you are rastering an image, you can select or create an image in any program or use an existing picture.

If you want to add vector cuts, you need to use a program that has the ability to create vectors. We use a free program called [https://inkscape.org/ Inkscape]. A guide on how to use the program can be [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Beginner|found here]]. Unfortunately you can’t print directly from inkscape, you need to simply save your file as .pdf.
===Move file to the laser cutter computer===
Once you have saved your file as a .pdf, move it to a USB drive and bring it over to the laser cutter computer. Open your file on the computer.
===Turn on the laser cutter===
There are three items to turn on:

*'''Laser cutter:''' Switch on left hand side at the back. When you turn on the laser cutter, let the head move around freely. Refrain from touching any other buttons until it has finished this process.
*'''Air filter:''' Power button at bottom front.
*'''Air compressor:''' Switch Located on top left hand side

===Prepare the laser cutter===
The laser cutter needs to be adapted to the material and image you are going to cut. This is done by changing the height and the laser’s home. The height affects the laser’s focus and the home is related to the center engraving. More information about this can be found on the laser settings page.

*'''Setting home:''' This is setting the origin for the laser. If you do not have center engraving select. This will be the top left hand corner of the piece. For more information, see the laser setting page.
*#Make sure the laser cutter is on.
*#Press the pointer button. You should see a red dot under the laser head. That is the current location of the laser.
*#Press X/Y off.
*# Press Go. You should be able to freely move the laser cutter head.
*#Move the laser head so that the red dot is at the desired origin.
*# Press set home. You should no longer be able to move the laser head and you home is set.
*'''Focusing laser:''' We '''do not''' use the automatic focus function on the laser (Please, '''<u>NEVER</u>''' check the box for Auto-Focus it will break the laser), therefore you need to manually focus the laser before your cut.
*#Make sure the laser is on.
*#Place the material on the laser bed. You want to make sure that the area you are cutting is parallel to laser bed and the track on which the laser head moves. If there is a variation in height, you will see a variation in properties of the rastering and vectoring done by the laser
*#Place the manual focus guide onto the laser cutter head. The guide is attached with magnets.
*#Press the Focus button on the laser cutter control panel. The laser head will move over slightly, make sure that the material is still under the manual focus.
*#Using the up and down arrows, lower or raise the bed until the manual focus guide is resting on the material without being lifted off the base.

===Click print and select settings===
<youtube>kHQxDtO1LIc</youtube>

On the computer, click print. The print setup window will appear.

#Change the printer to the laser cutter you are going to be using.
#Click on properties. This will bring up a page on the laser cutter settings. Consult the laser cutter manual for the proper speed and vector settings. More information on settings can be found on the Laser Settings page. When you are done selecting all your settings, click ok. This will take you back to the print page.
#Make sure that the picture is set to Actual size. If it is set to fit the vector lines will most likely not work.
#Select orientation, either auto, portrait, or landscape. Most of the time, this will be set to auto portrait/landscape. This means that the laser will look at the size of the image you are attempting to cut and the size that you have added in the properties page. It will attempt to place the image in the way that it will fit best. If you want your image in a specific direction, select either portrait or landscape.

When all settings are chosen, click print. If you look over to the laser cutter the name of the file should appear on the control panel. Wait until the data light is no longer flashing.
===Start cut===

#Make sure that the glass cover is down and that you have prepare the laser. Check that your job is set on displayed on the laser cutter.
#Press the green go.
#While the laser cutter is cutting, do not leave the laser cutter unattended. If small flames appear, '''do not panic.''' As long as you piece is not actively burning, you are ok. If at any point you are unsure, pause your cut and find the Makerspace Coordinator on duty. You can pause your cut by pressing the red stop button, it will always finish the line that is cutting before it ends. If it needs to be stopped for safety purposes and it is not stopping with the Red Button, use the On/Off switch on the left side of the laser. Leave the lid closed. To resume, press the green go button.

=== Turn off laser cutter setup===
When you are finished all your cuts, turn off the laser cutter, air compressor, and air filter.
===Clean up===
So that our laser remains operational, it is important that we clean up after each cut. Clean off any debris that can be found on the the laser cutter bed. Using the handles on the front of the laser cutter, open the front of the laser. Empty the debris tray and replace it.
==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner/Troubleshooting Laser Cutter Issues|Troubleshooting Laser Cutter Issues]]==

*File not sending to the Laser Cutter
** Try unplugging the USB-A Cable from the laser and plugging it back, the files should now be available on the Laser Screen
**Make sure to choose the Printer that has a "(USB)" at the end of the printer name in Adobe Acrobat Reader
**Try turning Off and On the laser
* Vector not working : When sending a vector file, if the Laser Cutter does a sound right away and doesn't start, it means something is probably wrong with the file.
** Make sure the line thickness is actually 0.001 inch
**Make sure opacity is at <u>exactly</u> 100%
**Make sure that the Vector or Combined setting in the Epilog Driver is selected
**Try opening the file back in inkscape or your preferred vector software and make sure the lines are a solid color
*Laser starts shifting on the side
**Stop the print and make sure the size doesn't exceed the size of the laser's bed (Helix : 18x24" and Mini : 12x24")
**Ask staff to check the laser, but this issue will probably mean that the laser needs to go Out of Order for maintenance
*Only part of the file gets printed
**Check your canvas size is the actual size or bigger that everything that is in that document
** Make sure that in the Epilog Driver, the "Piece size" is bigger than the size of your document

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner/Resources|Resources]]==
Some programs exist to simplify the laser cutting workflow. A few tools are listed below.
===[https://en.makercase.com/#/ Makerbox]===
Makerbox is a web-based case generator for laser cutting. It allows for the creation of boxes with live hinges at the corners. Unfortunately, it only outputs .DXF or .DWG file formats and does not support the export of 3D CAD models for modifications in a 3D CAD software.
===[https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/downloads/caas/downloads/content/slicer-for-fusion-360.html Slicer for Fusion 360]===
Slicer for Fusion 360 is a Fusion 360 add-on that allows for the conversion of 3D models into lasercuttable puzzle-like designs. This add-on can be extremely useful at making an inner-skeleton of large structures.
===[https://makerepo.com/jboud030/652.decoupe-laser-virtuel-virtual-laser-cutting/#/ Laser Cutter Simulation]===
A simulator that shows all the steps to use the laser cutter in the Makerspace

==References==

#
<references />

Digital technologies

2024-10-03T13:40:35Z

Jboud030:

Below you can find sections of different digital technologies, based on their level.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing|3D printing resources]]==
Modern printing technology has enabled the accurate printing of nearly any shape in a wide variety of materials, with many different printing methods to choose from. Selecting a print method will depend on the application, material, and budget used. Materials vary from almost any metal alloy, thermoplastics, ceramics, paper, edibles, rubbers, and clay. Printing methods include extrusion (heating material and forcing through a nozzle), powder bed (placing powdered material and using adhesive or melting to attach), and light polymerized (using UV light to polymerize material on a build plate). 3D Printers utilize an onboard controller to control the printer head and build plate in order to print each 2D layer in the right order and position. In addition, most 3D printers have downloadable software (slicers) that allows a user to position a 3D model on a virtual build platform, as well as adjust the printer’s settings for the build before sending the data to the printer. These 3D models used by the software can be generated using [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|CAD (computer-aided design)]] methods, laser scanning, or photogrammetry, although CAD is typically used in conjunction with the latter two to refine the output from these methods.

===3D printing===

*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner|3D Printing- Beginner]]
**Basic understanding of 3D printing and 3D printers
**Ability to slice and start a print on an Ultimaker 2+ printer
**Basic ability to troubleshoot a print
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|3D Printing- Intermediate]]
**Basic understanding of custom slicer settings and print orientation
**Basic understanding of print post processing
**Basic understanding of dual extrusion prints
**Basic understanding of different slicer software
**Intermediate understanding of printer functions
**Intermediate troubleshooting abilities
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Advanced|3D Printing- Advanced]]
**Ability to use all materials available at the Makerspace
**Ability to use all Makerspace printers
**Ability to print large components (print optimizations)
**Advanced understanding of 3D printing extrusion
**Proficient with UM2+ settings

===3D modeling (for 3D printing)===

*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|3D modeling- Beginner]]
**Basic knowledge of 3D modelling in TinkerCAD
**Basic knowledge of model modifications in TinkerCAD
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Intermediate|3D modeling- Intermediate]]
**Proficient 3D modelling skills in TinkerCAD
**Basic ability in parametric CAD modelling softwares
*[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced|3D modeling- Advanced]]
**Subdividing large models for 3D printing
**Basic understanding of one or more modelling softwares
**Basic understanding of 3D scanning and Scan to CAD

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser cutting resources]]==
Laser cutting uses a high-powered beam to cut material based on computer-controlled parameters. As the laser guides its beam along the material, everything in its direct path is vaporized, burned or melted. One of the benefits of laser cutting technology is the cut product rarely needs any finishing work as this process ensures a high-quality surface finish. A graphics software is used to import or create designs that are meant to be cut.

===Laser cutting===

*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner|Laser Cutting- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Intermediate|Laser Cutting- Intermediate]]
*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Rotary Laser Engraving|Rotary Laser Engraving]]

===Vector graphics editor===

*[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Beginner|Vector Graphics- Beginner]]

*

==[[Digital technologies/Arduino|Arduino resources]]==
Arduino is an open-source electronics platform that provides an easy and accessible way to make robotics projects. The boards can receive input signals from sensors and produce outputs through its I/O pins. Arduino boards are used by a diverse set of people, including students, hobbyists, engineers, researchers due to the simple layout and programmability of the Arduino boards.

*[[Digital technologies/Arduino/Arduino- Beginner|Arduino- Beginner]]
** Basic understanding of programming
** Ability to control few components such as LEDs
** Basic understanding of how sensors work
** Basic understanding of the Arduino board

==[[Digital technologies/Soldering|Soldering resources]]==
Soldering allows you to create permanent/semi-permanent connection in any electrical circuit, this makes it ideal for later iterations of a project!
*[[Digital technologies/Soldering/Soldering- Beginner|Soldering- Beginner]]

==[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality|Virtual reality resources]]==

*[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality/Virtual reality- Beginner|Virtual Reality- Beginner]]
*[[Digital technologies/Virtual reality/Unity Project Resources|Unity Project Resources]]

==[[Digital technologies/Textiles|Textile resources]]==

*[[Digital technologies/Textiles/Embroidery- Beginner|Embroidery- Beginner]]
*[[3D printing on Fabric]]
*[[Die-cutting using Cricut]]

==Other resources==

*[[Raspberry Pi]]
*[[PCB milling machine]]
*[[Digital technologies/Vacuum Forming|Vacuum Forming]]
*[[Digital technologies/3D Scanning|3D Scanning]]

3D Scanning

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Jboud030: Jboud030 moved page 3D Scanning to Digital technologies/3D Scanning

#REDIRECT [[Digital technologies/3D Scanning]]

Digital technologies/3D Scanning

2024-10-03T13:39:55Z

Jboud030: Jboud030 moved page 3D Scanning to Digital technologies/3D Scanning

Professional development/Project management/MS Project Guide

2024-09-17T18:03:26Z

Jboud030:

== Getting the software ==

=== Lab computers ===
All lab computers in engineering have the Microsoft (MS) Project 2016 software which can be accessed through the Start menu.

Computer labs: https://www.uottawa.ca/faculty-engineering/it-services

=== Personal computers ===
It can also be downloaded on <u>Windows computers</u> for free from the Azure portal:
# Go to https://portal.azure.com/
# Click on <u>Education</u> in the list of services.
# In the overview tab click on the 'Sign up now' blue button at the top of the page and register for the Azure for Students program (login with your uOttawa student email).[[File:Azure Student sign up.png|alt=Azure for Students sign up screenshot|none|thumb|Azure for Students sign up]]
# Come back to the <u>Software</u> page if you were not redirected back (https://portal.azure.com/?Microsoft_Azure_Education_correlationId=6cb9980f-cd02-447e-b21e-2b1cb5904430#view/Microsoft_Azure_Education/EducationMenuBlade/~/software) and you should see a longer list of available softwares then if you were not signed up to Azure for Students.[[File:Azure_software.png|alt=Azure education menu screenshot|none|thumb|Azure education menu]]
# Type 'project' in the search bar and select 'Project Professional 2019'.[[File:Software search.png|none|thumb|Search result in Azure softwares]]
# Download the software (you may need to be connected to eduroam if it does not work from home). When the download is complete install the software.
## You may need to reinstall Microsoft Office on your computer for the installation to work.
## In the installation you will need the Key from the Azure site so do not leave the page.

== Learn to use the software ==
Here are some MS Project tutorials that can be useful to learn how it works:

#https://support.microsoft.com/en-au/office/create-a-project-in-project-desktop-783c8570-0111-4142-af80-989aabfe29af
#<youtube>iUqbhkJWt_4</youtube>
#<youtube>o-_KX0yRsyg</youtube>
==MS Project imports==
You may have another project management software that you wish to migrate information from.

Follow these steps to import an excel file: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/office/import-excel-data-into-project-cb3fb91a-ad05-4506-b0af-8aa8b2247119

== Sharing an MS Project file ==
To collaborate on a project plan with others, the .mpp file can be uploaded to OneDrive and then shared with others. Each person can open it from OneDrive and it will be saved there too.

File:Azure Student sign up.png

2024-09-17T18:00:59Z

Jboud030:

Azure Student sign up screenshot

Professional development/Project management/MS Project Guide

2024-09-17T17:06:50Z

Jboud030:

== Getting the software ==

=== Lab computers ===
All lab computers in engineering have the Microsoft (MS) Project 2016 software which can be accessed through the Start menu.

Computer labs: https://www.uottawa.ca/faculty-engineering/it-services

=== Personal computers ===
It can also be downloaded on <u>Windows computers</u> for free from the Azure portal:
# Go to https://portal.azure.com/
# Click on <u>Education</u> in the list of services.
# In the overview tab click on the 'Sign up' blue button in the white tile and register for the Azure for Students program (login with your uOttawa student email).
# Come back to the <u>Software</u> page if you were not redirected back (https://portal.azure.com/?Microsoft_Azure_Education_correlationId=6cb9980f-cd02-447e-b21e-2b1cb5904430#view/Microsoft_Azure_Education/EducationMenuBlade/~/software) and you should see a longer list of available softwares then if you were not signed up to Azure for Students.[[File:Azure_software.png|alt=|none|thumb|Azure education menu]]
# Type 'project' in the search bar and select 'Project Professional 2019'.[[File:Software search.png|none|thumb|Search result in Azure softwares]]
# Download the software (you may need to be connected to eduroam if it does not work from home). When the download is complete install the software.
## You may need to reinstall Microsoft Office on your computer for the installation to work.
## In the installation you will need the Key from the Azure site.

== Learn to use the software ==
Here are some MS Project tutorials that can be useful to learn how it works:

#https://support.microsoft.com/en-au/office/create-a-project-in-project-desktop-783c8570-0111-4142-af80-989aabfe29af
#<youtube>iUqbhkJWt_4</youtube>
#<youtube>o-_KX0yRsyg</youtube>
==MS Project imports==
You may have another project management software that you wish to migrate information from.

Follow these steps to import an excel file: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/office/import-excel-data-into-project-cb3fb91a-ad05-4506-b0af-8aa8b2247119

== Sharing an MS Project file ==
To collaborate on a project plan with others, the .mpp file can be uploaded to OneDrive and then shared with others. Each person can open it from OneDrive and it will be saved there too.