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Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Importing from CAD

2025-09-07T16:44:00Z

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Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Trace bitmap

2025-09-07T16:43:24Z

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Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Path features

2025-09-07T16:42:24Z

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Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Text features

2025-09-07T16:41:21Z

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Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate

2025-09-07T16:17:04Z

Gmang049: /* Filters */

== [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Introduction|Introduction]] ==
This article is a continuation of the 'Basics of Vector Graphics' article, which demonstrated how to use Inkscape, a vector graphics editor, to prepare your files before using the laser cutters in the Makerspace.

In 'Vector Graphics Intermediate', you will discover other features of Inkscape that can enhance your design and inspire fresh ideas for your projects.

This can range from using extensions, which are premade features that can be easily incorporated into your design with minimum editing required, or even individually making changes to a design using the node tool.

Inkscape is a limitless platform, and this article aims to help you find these features that are mostly left unused but could bring your design to another level.
[[File:Laser Engraving.png|center|400x600px|Laser Engraving|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Laser Engraving</div>

== [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Extensions|Extensions]] ==
Extensions<ref name=":0"><nowiki>https://www.tutkit.com/en/text-tutorials/6478-discover-the-advanced-features-in-inkscape</nowiki></ref> built into Inkscape can make designing easier and add more functionality to the software. There are a diverse number of extensions available in Inkscape for various purposes. For example, if you want to create something round or curved, you can use the Living Hinge extension. An example is shown below:
[[File:Living hinge example.png|center|400x750px|Living hinge example|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Living hinge example</div>
They can be accessed easily from the Extension toolbar, shown in the picture below, while other extensions created by the Inkscape community can easily be downloaded from Inkscape extension gallery online, [https://inkscape.org/gallery/=extension/ here].

[[File:Extensions in Inkscape.png|center|450x750px|Extensions in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3.Extensions in Inkscape</div>

=== Installing an extension ===
To install an extension, follow the following steps:

1.Download and unpack the archive file from the website

2.Determine the location where to copy these files:

In Inkscape: Edit->Preferences-> System: User Extensions

[[File:Installing an extension.png|center|700x500px|Installing an extension]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Installing an extension</div>
3.Locate this path on your computer and copy the two files from the download (.inx and .py files)

4.Restart Inkscape, and you should now be able to access it from the Extensions on the toolbar

==== Extensions in Inkscape ====
Once downloaded, you can find the extensions in Inkscape, available to use in different projects. A commonly used extension is the living hinge.

===== Living hinges =====
A living hinge is a flexible part of an object that allows movement between two segments. It can be attained by creating a series of thin lines that are cut, hence enabling the object to bend without breaking. Instead of creating several lines to be vectored, which can be time-consuming, you can use the available Inkscape extension by going to Extension->Render->Living hinge.

===== Other extensions =====
More extensions are available for download [https://inkscape.org/gallery/=extension/ here].They range from laser-cut boxes, jigsaws, shapes, gears, calendars and much more.

[[File:Other extensions.png|center|400x700px|Other extensions]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Other extensions</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/The Node Tool|The Node Tool]]==
The node tool allows free manipulation of an object and the elements it comprises of. It is a powerful tool that can adjust individual nodes of an object instead of the object as a whole. The following video will show how the node tool work and its usefulness when designing.

<youtube>oIXKgnrXpks</youtube>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Relationship between design color and laser power|Relationship between design color and laser power]]==
Color of different parts of a design is another factor which contributes to a darker or a lighter engraving. When creating a design, you can use the Fill feature in Inkscape to add color to your design.

[[File:Fill feature.png|center|400x500px|Fill feature]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Fill feature</div>
Using darker colors such as black will result in a darker and deeper image once rastered compared to using lighter colors. An example is shown below:

[[File:Different shadings example.png|center|300x300px|Different shadings example]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7.Different shadings example</div>

The above design comprises of the same text filled with 4 different colors, once rastered, the result obtained is shown below:

[[File:Result obtained for example of different shadings.png|center|300x300px|Result obtained for example of different shadings]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Result obtained for example of different shadings </div>

The darker colors resulted in a darker engraving compared to the last one, which had a lighter fill. Therefore, for a darker engraving, it is generally recommended to use black as the design color.
Another thing to notice is how the first three texts have practically no difference compared to the last one. Since these three had a darker color, they resulted in a similar outcome. It is essential to choose colors that are very different in shade instead of color, for example, black and white, for designs involving a lot of features, to obtain a well-defined image with a good contrast once rastered. Designs that have a lot of details, for example, maps, would require a good contrast to be seen clearly, hence the need to use colors that are very different in shading.

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Patterns|Patterns]]==
Instead of creating similar shapes repetitively, hence creating a pattern from scratch, you can use the pattern feature found in Inkscape, thus saving you time and contributing to a more refined design.
#Once your design created, navigate to Fill and Stroke->Fill and select the pattern icon (surrounded in yellow in the picture shown below).
[[File:Pattern feature in Inkscape.png|center|500x600px|Pattern feature in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Pattern feature in Inkscape
2. Select the pattern you prefer, and you can use the settings on the right (surrounded in red) to adjust the placement of the pattern.</div>Moreover, you can also make a pattern using your preferred images instead of the ones available on Inkscape. To do so, follow the steps below:
#Place the image you would like as a pattern on the canvas. You can also design your own object using the tools present in Inkscape.
#Click on the image, then navigate to Object->Pattern->Objects to Pattern. The pattern will be created and can be found when you go to fill or stroke style and navigate to the pattern icon.

[[File:Creating a pattern.png|center|500x800px|Creating a pattern|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Creating a pattern
3. To use your pattern, place a shape you would want the pattern in and navigate to Fill->Pattern icon and adjust the pattern to perfection.</div>
[[File:Using a created pattern.png|center|500x800px|Using a created pattern|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Using a created pattern</div>
Now, you can create your own patterns and make unique designs for your upcoming projects.

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Filters|Filters]]==
Filters can enhance simple shapes by adding realistic textures and giving more flair to your design. There are a good number of filters available on Inkscape, ranging from lizard skin to pearl effect. The following picture demonstrates where to access filters and some examples.
[[File: Accessing filters.png|center|500x800px|Accessing filters|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Accessing filters</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Text features|Text features]]==
===Customizing text<ref>https://inkscape.org/doc/tutorials/advanced/tutorial-advanced.html</ref>===
Using the node tool, you can easily manipulate distinct letters of your text and vary their position, shape and color.

Once you have written something on the document, select the text and go to Path->Object to path and make sure the node tool, found below the Selector tool, on the left is chosen.

[[File: Customizing text.png|center|500x800px| Customizing text|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. Customizing text</div>
Then, you will be able to individually select the nodes present and make adjustments to the text.
The following video, demonstrates how to use the node tool:
<youtube>KgAFjB2UUjA</youtube>

===Put text on path===
Instead of having a text on a straight line you can use make a path, and make your text follow that path.
#Draw a path and your text on the same document, select both and navigate to Text, found on the top line.
[[File: Path and text.png|center|400x500px| Path and text|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Path and text
</div>2.There, select, Put on Path[[File:Path feature.png|center|300x300px| Path feature|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15.Path feature</div>
And your text will follow the path you drew:
[[File:Text on path.png|center|300x300px|Text on path|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 16. Text on path</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Path features|Path features]]==
===Line offset===
====Dynamic offset for shape outlines====
Dynamic offset in Inkscape allows you to offset a path or a shape creating an outline, a border or an inset. The following video demonstrates how to use Dynamic offset in Inkscape and the effect it brings to a design.
<youtube>PFfhAwXGIwQ</youtube>
==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Trace bitmap|Trace bitmap]]==
To be able to raster an image obtained online, it must first be converted into a Bitmap, that is, turning the image into a map of pixels that the laser head can follow for an engraving. The simpler the image, the better the results will be. There are different main types of detection modes, namely:

1.<u>Brightness Cut-off:</u>

The higher the threshold is, the fewer the number of pixels that will be considered to be “white”, and the image gets darker.

2.<u>Edge Detection:</u>

Produces a bitmap that will look less like the original image compared to Brightness Threshold but will provide curve information.

3.<u>Color Quantization:</u>

Find edges where colors change, even at equal brightness and contrast.

The following video explains how to use the Trace Bitmap feature in Inkscape and the different detection modes that can be employed.

<youtube>4fjo9_i_nC4</youtube>

The Trace Bitmap feature can be obtained either by right-clicking on the image and selecting Trace Bitmap, as shown in the video or by going to Path->Trace Bitmap:

[[File:Trace Bitmap feature.png|center|400x600px|Trace Bitmap feature|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 17. Trace Bitmap feature</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Importing from CAD|Importing from CAD]]==
Instead of designing something in Inkscape, you can also import a file from a CAD software.

If you are using Onshape, for example, right-click on the sketch and select export as DXF/DWG.

[[File:Exporting file.png|center|400x700px|Exporting file|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 18.Exporting file</div>
A dialog box will appear where you will be prompted to choose either DXF or DWG. In this example, DXF R14(Release 14) is chosen.
[[File:Exporting file from CAD.png|center|400x700px|Exporting file from CAD|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 19. Exporting file from CAD</div>

Click on Export once the format chosen.

Open the file on Inkscape, and the following prompt will appear:

[[File:Opening file in Inkscape .png|center|300x500px|Opening file in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Opening DXF/DWG in Inkscape</div>

Select Read from file to ensure that the design in Inkscape has the exact dimensions as the CAD design. Once this is done, you will be able to edit the stroke width of your design to specify if you want a cut or an engraving.

You can save the file as an SVG for any further editing and finally as a PDF when you are ready to send the file to a laser-cutter.

Alternatively, it is also possible to use an online DXF/DWG to SVG converter to convert a CAD file to an Inkscape-compatible file.

* For SolidWorks drawings, follow the steps in the video below:<youtube>ptxyHT09A2M</youtube>
* For Fusion 360 to Inkscape, follow the steps in the video below:

<youtube>iukomA5BzGA</youtube>

=References=

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Filters

2025-09-07T16:15:35Z

Gmang049:

{{#lsth:Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate|[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Filters|Filters]]}}

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Filters

2025-09-07T16:13:40Z

Gmang049: Created page with "{{#lsth:Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics-Intermediate|Filters}}"

{{#lsth:Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics-Intermediate|[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics-Intermediate/Filters|Filters]]}}

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate

2025-09-07T16:13:04Z

Gmang049: /* Filters */

== [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Introduction|Introduction]] ==
This article is a continuation of the 'Basics of Vector Graphics' article, which demonstrated how to use Inkscape, a vector graphics editor, to prepare your files before using the laser cutters in the Makerspace.

In 'Vector Graphics Intermediate', you will discover other features of Inkscape that can enhance your design and inspire fresh ideas for your projects.

This can range from using extensions, which are premade features that can be easily incorporated into your design with minimum editing required, or even individually making changes to a design using the node tool.

Inkscape is a limitless platform, and this article aims to help you find these features that are mostly left unused but could bring your design to another level.
[[File:Laser Engraving.png|center|400x600px|Laser Engraving|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Laser Engraving</div>

== [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Extensions|Extensions]] ==
Extensions<ref name=":0"><nowiki>https://www.tutkit.com/en/text-tutorials/6478-discover-the-advanced-features-in-inkscape</nowiki></ref> built into Inkscape can make designing easier and add more functionality to the software. There are a diverse number of extensions available in Inkscape for various purposes. For example, if you want to create something round or curved, you can use the Living Hinge extension. An example is shown below:
[[File:Living hinge example.png|center|400x750px|Living hinge example|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Living hinge example</div>
They can be accessed easily from the Extension toolbar, shown in the picture below, while other extensions created by the Inkscape community can easily be downloaded from Inkscape extension gallery online, [https://inkscape.org/gallery/=extension/ here].

[[File:Extensions in Inkscape.png|center|450x750px|Extensions in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3.Extensions in Inkscape</div>

=== Installing an extension ===
To install an extension, follow the following steps:

1.Download and unpack the archive file from the website

2.Determine the location where to copy these files:

In Inkscape: Edit->Preferences-> System: User Extensions

[[File:Installing an extension.png|center|700x500px|Installing an extension]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Installing an extension</div>
3.Locate this path on your computer and copy the two files from the download (.inx and .py files)

4.Restart Inkscape, and you should now be able to access it from the Extensions on the toolbar

==== Extensions in Inkscape ====
Once downloaded, you can find the extensions in Inkscape, available to use in different projects. A commonly used extension is the living hinge.

===== Living hinges =====
A living hinge is a flexible part of an object that allows movement between two segments. It can be attained by creating a series of thin lines that are cut, hence enabling the object to bend without breaking. Instead of creating several lines to be vectored, which can be time-consuming, you can use the available Inkscape extension by going to Extension->Render->Living hinge.

===== Other extensions =====
More extensions are available for download [https://inkscape.org/gallery/=extension/ here].They range from laser-cut boxes, jigsaws, shapes, gears, calendars and much more.

[[File:Other extensions.png|center|400x700px|Other extensions]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Other extensions</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/The Node Tool|The Node Tool]]==
The node tool allows free manipulation of an object and the elements it comprises of. It is a powerful tool that can adjust individual nodes of an object instead of the object as a whole. The following video will show how the node tool work and its usefulness when designing.

<youtube>oIXKgnrXpks</youtube>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Relationship between design color and laser power|Relationship between design color and laser power]]==
Color of different parts of a design is another factor which contributes to a darker or a lighter engraving. When creating a design, you can use the Fill feature in Inkscape to add color to your design.

[[File:Fill feature.png|center|400x500px|Fill feature]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Fill feature</div>
Using darker colors such as black will result in a darker and deeper image once rastered compared to using lighter colors. An example is shown below:

[[File:Different shadings example.png|center|300x300px|Different shadings example]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7.Different shadings example</div>

The above design comprises of the same text filled with 4 different colors, once rastered, the result obtained is shown below:

[[File:Result obtained for example of different shadings.png|center|300x300px|Result obtained for example of different shadings]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Result obtained for example of different shadings </div>

The darker colors resulted in a darker engraving compared to the last one, which had a lighter fill. Therefore, for a darker engraving, it is generally recommended to use black as the design color.
Another thing to notice is how the first three texts have practically no difference compared to the last one. Since these three had a darker color, they resulted in a similar outcome. It is essential to choose colors that are very different in shade instead of color, for example, black and white, for designs involving a lot of features, to obtain a well-defined image with a good contrast once rastered. Designs that have a lot of details, for example, maps, would require a good contrast to be seen clearly, hence the need to use colors that are very different in shading.

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Patterns|Patterns]]==
Instead of creating similar shapes repetitively, hence creating a pattern from scratch, you can use the pattern feature found in Inkscape, thus saving you time and contributing to a more refined design.
#Once your design created, navigate to Fill and Stroke->Fill and select the pattern icon (surrounded in yellow in the picture shown below).
[[File:Pattern feature in Inkscape.png|center|500x600px|Pattern feature in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Pattern feature in Inkscape
2. Select the pattern you prefer, and you can use the settings on the right (surrounded in red) to adjust the placement of the pattern.</div>Moreover, you can also make a pattern using your preferred images instead of the ones available on Inkscape. To do so, follow the steps below:
#Place the image you would like as a pattern on the canvas. You can also design your own object using the tools present in Inkscape.
#Click on the image, then navigate to Object->Pattern->Objects to Pattern. The pattern will be created and can be found when you go to fill or stroke style and navigate to the pattern icon.

[[File:Creating a pattern.png|center|500x800px|Creating a pattern|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Creating a pattern
3. To use your pattern, place a shape you would want the pattern in and navigate to Fill->Pattern icon and adjust the pattern to perfection.</div>
[[File:Using a created pattern.png|center|500x800px|Using a created pattern|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Using a created pattern</div>
Now, you can create your own patterns and make unique designs for your upcoming projects.

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Filters|Filters]]==
Filters<ref name=":0" /> can enhance simple shapes by adding realistic textures and giving more flair to your design. There are a good number of filters available on Inkscape, ranging from lizard skin to pearl effect. The following picture demonstrates where to access filters and some examples.
[[File: Accessing filters.png|center|500x800px|Accessing filters|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Accessing filters</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Text features|Text features]]==
===Customizing text<ref>https://inkscape.org/doc/tutorials/advanced/tutorial-advanced.html</ref>===
Using the node tool, you can easily manipulate distinct letters of your text and vary their position, shape and color.

Once you have written something on the document, select the text and go to Path->Object to path and make sure the node tool, found below the Selector tool, on the left is chosen.

[[File: Customizing text.png|center|500x800px| Customizing text|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. Customizing text</div>
Then, you will be able to individually select the nodes present and make adjustments to the text.
The following video, demonstrates how to use the node tool:
<youtube>KgAFjB2UUjA</youtube>

===Put text on path===
Instead of having a text on a straight line you can use make a path, and make your text follow that path.
#Draw a path and your text on the same document, select both and navigate to Text, found on the top line.
[[File: Path and text.png|center|400x500px| Path and text|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Path and text
</div>2.There, select, Put on Path[[File:Path feature.png|center|300x300px| Path feature|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15.Path feature</div>
And your text will follow the path you drew:
[[File:Text on path.png|center|300x300px|Text on path|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 16. Text on path</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Path features|Path features]]==
===Line offset===
====Dynamic offset for shape outlines====
Dynamic offset in Inkscape allows you to offset a path or a shape creating an outline, a border or an inset. The following video demonstrates how to use Dynamic offset in Inkscape and the effect it brings to a design.
<youtube>PFfhAwXGIwQ</youtube>
==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Trace bitmap|Trace bitmap]]==
To be able to raster an image obtained online, it must first be converted into a Bitmap, that is, turning the image into a map of pixels that the laser head can follow for an engraving. The simpler the image, the better the results will be. There are different main types of detection modes, namely:

1.<u>Brightness Cut-off:</u>

The higher the threshold is, the fewer the number of pixels that will be considered to be “white”, and the image gets darker.

2.<u>Edge Detection:</u>

Produces a bitmap that will look less like the original image compared to Brightness Threshold but will provide curve information.

3.<u>Color Quantization:</u>

Find edges where colors change, even at equal brightness and contrast.

The following video explains how to use the Trace Bitmap feature in Inkscape and the different detection modes that can be employed.

<youtube>4fjo9_i_nC4</youtube>

The Trace Bitmap feature can be obtained either by right-clicking on the image and selecting Trace Bitmap, as shown in the video or by going to Path->Trace Bitmap:

[[File:Trace Bitmap feature.png|center|400x600px|Trace Bitmap feature|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 17. Trace Bitmap feature</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Importing from CAD|Importing from CAD]]==
Instead of designing something in Inkscape, you can also import a file from a CAD software.

If you are using Onshape, for example, right-click on the sketch and select export as DXF/DWG.

[[File:Exporting file.png|center|400x700px|Exporting file|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 18.Exporting file</div>
A dialog box will appear where you will be prompted to choose either DXF or DWG. In this example, DXF R14(Release 14) is chosen.
[[File:Exporting file from CAD.png|center|400x700px|Exporting file from CAD|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 19. Exporting file from CAD</div>

Click on Export once the format chosen.

Open the file on Inkscape, and the following prompt will appear:

[[File:Opening file in Inkscape .png|center|300x500px|Opening file in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Opening DXF/DWG in Inkscape</div>

Select Read from file to ensure that the design in Inkscape has the exact dimensions as the CAD design. Once this is done, you will be able to edit the stroke width of your design to specify if you want a cut or an engraving.

You can save the file as an SVG for any further editing and finally as a PDF when you are ready to send the file to a laser-cutter.

Alternatively, it is also possible to use an online DXF/DWG to SVG converter to convert a CAD file to an Inkscape-compatible file.

* For SolidWorks drawings, follow the steps in the video below:<youtube>ptxyHT09A2M</youtube>
* For Fusion 360 to Inkscape, follow the steps in the video below:

<youtube>iukomA5BzGA</youtube>

=References=

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- IntermediateFilters

2025-09-07T16:12:18Z

Gmang049: Blanked the page

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- IntermediateFilters

2025-09-07T16:12:04Z

Gmang049: Created page with "{{#lsth:Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Laser cutting- Beginner|Filters}}"

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Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate

2025-09-07T16:10:53Z

Gmang049: /* Patterns */

== [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Introduction|Introduction]] ==
This article is a continuation of the 'Basics of Vector Graphics' article, which demonstrated how to use Inkscape, a vector graphics editor, to prepare your files before using the laser cutters in the Makerspace.

In 'Vector Graphics Intermediate', you will discover other features of Inkscape that can enhance your design and inspire fresh ideas for your projects.

This can range from using extensions, which are premade features that can be easily incorporated into your design with minimum editing required, or even individually making changes to a design using the node tool.

Inkscape is a limitless platform, and this article aims to help you find these features that are mostly left unused but could bring your design to another level.
[[File:Laser Engraving.png|center|400x600px|Laser Engraving|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Laser Engraving</div>

== [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Extensions|Extensions]] ==
Extensions<ref name=":0"><nowiki>https://www.tutkit.com/en/text-tutorials/6478-discover-the-advanced-features-in-inkscape</nowiki></ref> built into Inkscape can make designing easier and add more functionality to the software. There are a diverse number of extensions available in Inkscape for various purposes. For example, if you want to create something round or curved, you can use the Living Hinge extension. An example is shown below:
[[File:Living hinge example.png|center|400x750px|Living hinge example|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Living hinge example</div>
They can be accessed easily from the Extension toolbar, shown in the picture below, while other extensions created by the Inkscape community can easily be downloaded from Inkscape extension gallery online, [https://inkscape.org/gallery/=extension/ here].

[[File:Extensions in Inkscape.png|center|450x750px|Extensions in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3.Extensions in Inkscape</div>

=== Installing an extension ===
To install an extension, follow the following steps:

1.Download and unpack the archive file from the website

2.Determine the location where to copy these files:

In Inkscape: Edit->Preferences-> System: User Extensions

[[File:Installing an extension.png|center|700x500px|Installing an extension]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Installing an extension</div>
3.Locate this path on your computer and copy the two files from the download (.inx and .py files)

4.Restart Inkscape, and you should now be able to access it from the Extensions on the toolbar

==== Extensions in Inkscape ====
Once downloaded, you can find the extensions in Inkscape, available to use in different projects. A commonly used extension is the living hinge.

===== Living hinges =====
A living hinge is a flexible part of an object that allows movement between two segments. It can be attained by creating a series of thin lines that are cut, hence enabling the object to bend without breaking. Instead of creating several lines to be vectored, which can be time-consuming, you can use the available Inkscape extension by going to Extension->Render->Living hinge.

===== Other extensions =====
More extensions are available for download [https://inkscape.org/gallery/=extension/ here].They range from laser-cut boxes, jigsaws, shapes, gears, calendars and much more.

[[File:Other extensions.png|center|400x700px|Other extensions]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Other extensions</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/The Node Tool|The Node Tool]]==
The node tool allows free manipulation of an object and the elements it comprises of. It is a powerful tool that can adjust individual nodes of an object instead of the object as a whole. The following video will show how the node tool work and its usefulness when designing.

<youtube>oIXKgnrXpks</youtube>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Relationship between design color and laser power|Relationship between design color and laser power]]==
Color of different parts of a design is another factor which contributes to a darker or a lighter engraving. When creating a design, you can use the Fill feature in Inkscape to add color to your design.

[[File:Fill feature.png|center|400x500px|Fill feature]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Fill feature</div>
Using darker colors such as black will result in a darker and deeper image once rastered compared to using lighter colors. An example is shown below:

[[File:Different shadings example.png|center|300x300px|Different shadings example]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7.Different shadings example</div>

The above design comprises of the same text filled with 4 different colors, once rastered, the result obtained is shown below:

[[File:Result obtained for example of different shadings.png|center|300x300px|Result obtained for example of different shadings]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Result obtained for example of different shadings </div>

The darker colors resulted in a darker engraving compared to the last one, which had a lighter fill. Therefore, for a darker engraving, it is generally recommended to use black as the design color.
Another thing to notice is how the first three texts have practically no difference compared to the last one. Since these three had a darker color, they resulted in a similar outcome. It is essential to choose colors that are very different in shade instead of color, for example, black and white, for designs involving a lot of features, to obtain a well-defined image with a good contrast once rastered. Designs that have a lot of details, for example, maps, would require a good contrast to be seen clearly, hence the need to use colors that are very different in shading.

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Patterns|Patterns]]==
Instead of creating similar shapes repetitively, hence creating a pattern from scratch, you can use the pattern feature found in Inkscape, thus saving you time and contributing to a more refined design.
#Once your design created, navigate to Fill and Stroke->Fill and select the pattern icon (surrounded in yellow in the picture shown below).
[[File:Pattern feature in Inkscape.png|center|500x600px|Pattern feature in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Pattern feature in Inkscape
2. Select the pattern you prefer, and you can use the settings on the right (surrounded in red) to adjust the placement of the pattern.</div>Moreover, you can also make a pattern using your preferred images instead of the ones available on Inkscape. To do so, follow the steps below:
#Place the image you would like as a pattern on the canvas. You can also design your own object using the tools present in Inkscape.
#Click on the image, then navigate to Object->Pattern->Objects to Pattern. The pattern will be created and can be found when you go to fill or stroke style and navigate to the pattern icon.

[[File:Creating a pattern.png|center|500x800px|Creating a pattern|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Creating a pattern
3. To use your pattern, place a shape you would want the pattern in and navigate to Fill->Pattern icon and adjust the pattern to perfection.</div>
[[File:Using a created pattern.png|center|500x800px|Using a created pattern|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Using a created pattern</div>
Now, you can create your own patterns and make unique designs for your upcoming projects.

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- IntermediateFilters|Filters]]==
Filters<ref name=":0" /> can enhance simple shapes by adding realistic textures and giving more flair to your design. There are a good number of filters available on Inkscape, ranging from lizard skin to pearl effect. The following picture demonstrates where to access filters and some examples.
[[File: Accessing filters.png|center|500x800px|Accessing filters|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Accessing filters</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Text features|Text features]]==
===Customizing text<ref>https://inkscape.org/doc/tutorials/advanced/tutorial-advanced.html</ref>===
Using the node tool, you can easily manipulate distinct letters of your text and vary their position, shape and color.

Once you have written something on the document, select the text and go to Path->Object to path and make sure the node tool, found below the Selector tool, on the left is chosen.

[[File: Customizing text.png|center|500x800px| Customizing text|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. Customizing text</div>
Then, you will be able to individually select the nodes present and make adjustments to the text.
The following video, demonstrates how to use the node tool:
<youtube>KgAFjB2UUjA</youtube>

===Put text on path===
Instead of having a text on a straight line you can use make a path, and make your text follow that path.
#Draw a path and your text on the same document, select both and navigate to Text, found on the top line.
[[File: Path and text.png|center|400x500px| Path and text|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Path and text
</div>2.There, select, Put on Path[[File:Path feature.png|center|300x300px| Path feature|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15.Path feature</div>
And your text will follow the path you drew:
[[File:Text on path.png|center|300x300px|Text on path|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 16. Text on path</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Path features|Path features]]==
===Line offset===
====Dynamic offset for shape outlines====
Dynamic offset in Inkscape allows you to offset a path or a shape creating an outline, a border or an inset. The following video demonstrates how to use Dynamic offset in Inkscape and the effect it brings to a design.
<youtube>PFfhAwXGIwQ</youtube>
==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Trace bitmap|Trace bitmap]]==
To be able to raster an image obtained online, it must first be converted into a Bitmap, that is, turning the image into a map of pixels that the laser head can follow for an engraving. The simpler the image, the better the results will be. There are different main types of detection modes, namely:

1.<u>Brightness Cut-off:</u>

The higher the threshold is, the fewer the number of pixels that will be considered to be “white”, and the image gets darker.

2.<u>Edge Detection:</u>

Produces a bitmap that will look less like the original image compared to Brightness Threshold but will provide curve information.

3.<u>Color Quantization:</u>

Find edges where colors change, even at equal brightness and contrast.

The following video explains how to use the Trace Bitmap feature in Inkscape and the different detection modes that can be employed.

<youtube>4fjo9_i_nC4</youtube>

The Trace Bitmap feature can be obtained either by right-clicking on the image and selecting Trace Bitmap, as shown in the video or by going to Path->Trace Bitmap:

[[File:Trace Bitmap feature.png|center|400x600px|Trace Bitmap feature|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 17. Trace Bitmap feature</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Importing from CAD|Importing from CAD]]==
Instead of designing something in Inkscape, you can also import a file from a CAD software.

If you are using Onshape, for example, right-click on the sketch and select export as DXF/DWG.

[[File:Exporting file.png|center|400x700px|Exporting file|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 18.Exporting file</div>
A dialog box will appear where you will be prompted to choose either DXF or DWG. In this example, DXF R14(Release 14) is chosen.
[[File:Exporting file from CAD.png|center|400x700px|Exporting file from CAD|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 19. Exporting file from CAD</div>

Click on Export once the format chosen.

Open the file on Inkscape, and the following prompt will appear:

[[File:Opening file in Inkscape .png|center|300x500px|Opening file in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Opening DXF/DWG in Inkscape</div>

Select Read from file to ensure that the design in Inkscape has the exact dimensions as the CAD design. Once this is done, you will be able to edit the stroke width of your design to specify if you want a cut or an engraving.

You can save the file as an SVG for any further editing and finally as a PDF when you are ready to send the file to a laser-cutter.

Alternatively, it is also possible to use an online DXF/DWG to SVG converter to convert a CAD file to an Inkscape-compatible file.

* For SolidWorks drawings, follow the steps in the video below:<youtube>ptxyHT09A2M</youtube>
* For Fusion 360 to Inkscape, follow the steps in the video below:

<youtube>iukomA5BzGA</youtube>

=References=

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Patterns

2025-09-07T16:10:21Z

Gmang049: Created page with "{{#lsth:Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate|Patterns}}"

{{#lsth:Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate|[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Patterns|Patterns]]}}

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Relationship between design color and laser power

2025-09-07T16:09:32Z

Gmang049: Created page with "{{#lsth:Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate|Relationship between design color and laser power}}"

{{#lsth:Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate|[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Relationship between design color and laser power|Relationship between design color and laser power]]}}

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/The Node Tool

2025-09-07T16:07:55Z

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Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Extensions

2025-09-07T16:07:12Z

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Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Introduction

2025-09-07T16:05:34Z

Gmang049:

{{#lsth:Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate|[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Introduction|Introduction]]}}

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Introduction

2025-09-07T16:04:19Z

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Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Introduction

2025-09-07T15:59:37Z

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Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate

2025-09-07T15:51:27Z

Gmang049: /* Introduction */

== [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Introduction|Introduction]] ==
This article is a continuation of the 'Basics of Vector Graphics' article, which demonstrated how to use Inkscape, a vector graphics editor, to prepare your files before using the laser cutters in the Makerspace.

In 'Vector Graphics Intermediate', you will discover other features of Inkscape that can enhance your design and inspire fresh ideas for your projects.

This can range from using extensions, which are premade features that can be easily incorporated into your design with minimum editing required, or even individually making changes to a design using the node tool.

Inkscape is a limitless platform, and this article aims to help you find these features that are mostly left unused but could bring your design to another level.
[[File:Laser Engraving.png|center|400x600px|Laser Engraving|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Laser Engraving</div>

== [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Extensions|Extensions]] ==
Extensions<ref name=":0"><nowiki>https://www.tutkit.com/en/text-tutorials/6478-discover-the-advanced-features-in-inkscape</nowiki></ref> built into Inkscape can make designing easier and add more functionality to the software. There are a diverse number of extensions available in Inkscape for various purposes. For example, if you want to create something round or curved, you can use the Living Hinge extension. An example is shown below:
[[File:Living hinge example.png|center|400x750px|Living hinge example|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Living hinge example</div>
They can be accessed easily from the Extension toolbar, shown in the picture below, while other extensions created by the Inkscape community can easily be downloaded from Inkscape extension gallery online, [https://inkscape.org/gallery/=extension/ here].

[[File:Extensions in Inkscape.png|center|450x750px|Extensions in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3.Extensions in Inkscape</div>

=== Installing an extension ===
To install an extension, follow the following steps:

1.Download and unpack the archive file from the website

2.Determine the location where to copy these files:

In Inkscape: Edit->Preferences-> System: User Extensions

[[File:Installing an extension.png|center|700x500px|Installing an extension]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Installing an extension</div>
3.Locate this path on your computer and copy the two files from the download (.inx and .py files)

4.Restart Inkscape, and you should now be able to access it from the Extensions on the toolbar

==== Extensions in Inkscape ====
Once downloaded, you can find the extensions in Inkscape, available to use in different projects. A commonly used extension is the living hinge.

===== Living hinges =====
A living hinge is a flexible part of an object that allows movement between two segments. It can be attained by creating a series of thin lines that are cut, hence enabling the object to bend without breaking. Instead of creating several lines to be vectored, which can be time-consuming, you can use the available Inkscape extension by going to Extension->Render->Living hinge.

===== Other extensions =====
More extensions are available for download [https://inkscape.org/gallery/=extension/ here].They range from laser-cut boxes, jigsaws, shapes, gears, calendars and much more.

[[File:Other extensions.png|center|400x700px|Other extensions]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Other extensions</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/The Node Tool|The Node Tool]]==
The node tool allows free manipulation of an object and the elements it comprises of. It is a powerful tool that can adjust individual nodes of an object instead of the object as a whole. The following video will show how the node tool work and its usefulness when designing.

<youtube>oIXKgnrXpks</youtube>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Relationship between design color and laser power|Relationship between design color and laser power]]==
Color of different parts of a design is another factor which contributes to a darker or a lighter engraving. When creating a design, you can use the Fill feature in Inkscape to add color to your design.

[[File:Fill feature.png|center|400x500px|Fill feature]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Fill feature</div>
Using darker colors such as black will result in a darker and deeper image once rastered compared to using lighter colors. An example is shown below:

[[File:Different shadings example.png|center|300x300px|Different shadings example]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7.Different shadings example</div>

The above design comprises of the same text filled with 4 different colors, once rastered, the result obtained is shown below:

[[File:Result obtained for example of different shadings.png|center|300x300px|Result obtained for example of different shadings]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Result obtained for example of different shadings </div>

The darker colors resulted in a darker engraving compared to the last one, which had a lighter fill. Therefore, for a darker engraving, it is generally recommended to use black as the design color.
Another thing to notice is how the first three texts have practically no difference compared to the last one. Since these three had a darker color, they resulted in a similar outcome. It is essential to choose colors that are very different in shade instead of color, for example, black and white, for designs involving a lot of features, to obtain a well-defined image with a good contrast once rastered. Designs that have a lot of details, for example, maps, would require a good contrast to be seen clearly, hence the need to use colors that are very different in shading.

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Patterns|Patterns]]==
Instead of creating similar shapes repetitively, hence creating a pattern from scratch, you can use the pattern feature found in Inkscape, thus saving you time and contributing to a more refined design.
#Once your design created, navigate to Fill and Stroke->Fill and select the pattern icon (surrounded in yellow in the picture shown below).
[[File:Pattern feature in Inkscape.png|center|500x600px|Pattern feature in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Pattern feature in Inkscape
#Select the pattern you prefer, and you can use the settings on the right (surrounded in red) to adjust the placement of the pattern.</div>Moreover, you can also make a pattern using your preferred images instead of the ones available on Inkscape. To do so, follow the steps below:
#Place the image you would like as a pattern on the canvas. You can also design your own object using the tools present in Inkscape.
#Click on the image, then navigate to Object->Pattern->Objects to Pattern. The pattern will be created and can be found when you go to fill or stroke style and navigate to the pattern icon.

[[File:Creating a pattern.png|center|500x800px|Creating a pattern|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Creating a pattern
3. To use your pattern, place a shape you would want the pattern in and navigate to Fill->Pattern icon and adjust the pattern to perfection.</div>
[[File:Using a created pattern.png|center|500x800px|Using a created pattern|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Using a created pattern</div>
Now, you can create your own patterns and make unique designs for your upcoming projects.

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- IntermediateFilters|Filters]]==
Filters<ref name=":0" /> can enhance simple shapes by adding realistic textures and giving more flair to your design. There are a good number of filters available on Inkscape, ranging from lizard skin to pearl effect. The following picture demonstrates where to access filters and some examples.
[[File: Accessing filters.png|center|500x800px|Accessing filters|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Accessing filters</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Text features|Text features]]==
===Customizing text<ref>https://inkscape.org/doc/tutorials/advanced/tutorial-advanced.html</ref>===
Using the node tool, you can easily manipulate distinct letters of your text and vary their position, shape and color.

Once you have written something on the document, select the text and go to Path->Object to path and make sure the node tool, found below the Selector tool, on the left is chosen.

[[File: Customizing text.png|center|500x800px| Customizing text|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. Customizing text</div>
Then, you will be able to individually select the nodes present and make adjustments to the text.
The following video, demonstrates how to use the node tool:
<youtube>KgAFjB2UUjA</youtube>

===Put text on path===
Instead of having a text on a straight line you can use make a path, and make your text follow that path.
#Draw a path and your text on the same document, select both and navigate to Text, found on the top line.
[[File: Path and text.png|center|400x500px| Path and text|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Path and text
</div>2.There, select, Put on Path[[File:Path feature.png|center|300x300px| Path feature|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15.Path feature</div>
And your text will follow the path you drew:
[[File:Text on path.png|center|300x300px|Text on path|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 16. Text on path</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Path features|Path features]]==
===Line offset===
====Dynamic offset for shape outlines====
Dynamic offset in Inkscape allows you to offset a path or a shape creating an outline, a border or an inset. The following video demonstrates how to use Dynamic offset in Inkscape and the effect it brings to a design.
<youtube>PFfhAwXGIwQ</youtube>
==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Trace bitmap|Trace bitmap]]==
To be able to raster an image obtained online, it must first be converted into a Bitmap, that is, turning the image into a map of pixels that the laser head can follow for an engraving. The simpler the image, the better the results will be. There are different main types of detection modes, namely:

1.<u>Brightness Cut-off:</u>

The higher the threshold is, the fewer the number of pixels that will be considered to be “white”, and the image gets darker.

2.<u>Edge Detection:</u>

Produces a bitmap that will look less like the original image compared to Brightness Threshold but will provide curve information.

3.<u>Color Quantization:</u>

Find edges where colors change, even at equal brightness and contrast.

The following video explains how to use the Trace Bitmap feature in Inkscape and the different detection modes that can be employed.

<youtube>4fjo9_i_nC4</youtube>

The Trace Bitmap feature can be obtained either by right-clicking on the image and selecting Trace Bitmap, as shown in the video or by going to Path->Trace Bitmap:

[[File:Trace Bitmap feature.png|center|400x600px|Trace Bitmap feature|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 17. Trace Bitmap feature</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Importing from CAD|Importing from CAD]]==
Instead of designing something in Inkscape, you can also import a file from a CAD software.

If you are using Onshape, for example, right-click on the sketch and select export as DXF/DWG.

[[File:Exporting file.png|center|400x700px|Exporting file|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 18.Exporting file</div>
A dialog box will appear where you will be prompted to choose either DXF or DWG. In this example, DXF R14(Release 14) is chosen.
[[File:Exporting file from CAD.png|center|400x700px|Exporting file from CAD|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 19. Exporting file from CAD</div>

Click on Export once the format chosen.

Open the file on Inkscape, and the following prompt will appear:

[[File:Opening file in Inkscape .png|center|300x500px|Opening file in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Opening DXF/DWG in Inkscape</div>

Select Read from file to ensure that the design in Inkscape has the exact dimensions as the CAD design. Once this is done, you will be able to edit the stroke width of your design to specify if you want a cut or an engraving.

You can save the file as an SVG for any further editing and finally as a PDF when you are ready to send the file to a laser-cutter.

Alternatively, it is also possible to use an online DXF/DWG to SVG converter to convert a CAD file to an Inkscape-compatible file.

* For SolidWorks drawings, follow the steps in the video below:<youtube>ptxyHT09A2M</youtube>
* For Fusion 360 to Inkscape, follow the steps in the video below:

<youtube>iukomA5BzGA</youtube>

=References=

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate

2025-09-07T15:51:06Z

Gmang049: /* Extensions */

=[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Introduction|Introduction]] =
This article is a continuation of the 'Basics of Vector Graphics' article, which demonstrated how to use Inkscape, a vector graphics editor, to prepare your files before using the laser cutters in the Makerspace.

In 'Vector Graphics Intermediate', you will discover other features of Inkscape that can enhance your design and inspire fresh ideas for your projects.

This can range from using extensions, which are premade features that can be easily incorporated into your design with minimum editing required, or even individually making changes to a design using the node tool.

Inkscape is a limitless platform, and this article aims to help you find these features that are mostly left unused but could bring your design to another level.
[[File:Laser Engraving.png|center|400x600px|Laser Engraving|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Laser Engraving</div>

== [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Extensions|Extensions]] ==
Extensions<ref name=":0"><nowiki>https://www.tutkit.com/en/text-tutorials/6478-discover-the-advanced-features-in-inkscape</nowiki></ref> built into Inkscape can make designing easier and add more functionality to the software. There are a diverse number of extensions available in Inkscape for various purposes. For example, if you want to create something round or curved, you can use the Living Hinge extension. An example is shown below:
[[File:Living hinge example.png|center|400x750px|Living hinge example|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Living hinge example</div>
They can be accessed easily from the Extension toolbar, shown in the picture below, while other extensions created by the Inkscape community can easily be downloaded from Inkscape extension gallery online, [https://inkscape.org/gallery/=extension/ here].

[[File:Extensions in Inkscape.png|center|450x750px|Extensions in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3.Extensions in Inkscape</div>

=== Installing an extension ===
To install an extension, follow the following steps:

1.Download and unpack the archive file from the website

2.Determine the location where to copy these files:

In Inkscape: Edit->Preferences-> System: User Extensions

[[File:Installing an extension.png|center|700x500px|Installing an extension]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Installing an extension</div>
3.Locate this path on your computer and copy the two files from the download (.inx and .py files)

4.Restart Inkscape, and you should now be able to access it from the Extensions on the toolbar

==== Extensions in Inkscape ====
Once downloaded, you can find the extensions in Inkscape, available to use in different projects. A commonly used extension is the living hinge.

===== Living hinges =====
A living hinge is a flexible part of an object that allows movement between two segments. It can be attained by creating a series of thin lines that are cut, hence enabling the object to bend without breaking. Instead of creating several lines to be vectored, which can be time-consuming, you can use the available Inkscape extension by going to Extension->Render->Living hinge.

===== Other extensions =====
More extensions are available for download [https://inkscape.org/gallery/=extension/ here].They range from laser-cut boxes, jigsaws, shapes, gears, calendars and much more.

[[File:Other extensions.png|center|400x700px|Other extensions]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Other extensions</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/The Node Tool|The Node Tool]]==
The node tool allows free manipulation of an object and the elements it comprises of. It is a powerful tool that can adjust individual nodes of an object instead of the object as a whole. The following video will show how the node tool work and its usefulness when designing.

<youtube>oIXKgnrXpks</youtube>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Relationship between design color and laser power|Relationship between design color and laser power]]==
Color of different parts of a design is another factor which contributes to a darker or a lighter engraving. When creating a design, you can use the Fill feature in Inkscape to add color to your design.

[[File:Fill feature.png|center|400x500px|Fill feature]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Fill feature</div>
Using darker colors such as black will result in a darker and deeper image once rastered compared to using lighter colors. An example is shown below:

[[File:Different shadings example.png|center|300x300px|Different shadings example]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7.Different shadings example</div>

The above design comprises of the same text filled with 4 different colors, once rastered, the result obtained is shown below:

[[File:Result obtained for example of different shadings.png|center|300x300px|Result obtained for example of different shadings]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Result obtained for example of different shadings </div>

The darker colors resulted in a darker engraving compared to the last one, which had a lighter fill. Therefore, for a darker engraving, it is generally recommended to use black as the design color.
Another thing to notice is how the first three texts have practically no difference compared to the last one. Since these three had a darker color, they resulted in a similar outcome. It is essential to choose colors that are very different in shade instead of color, for example, black and white, for designs involving a lot of features, to obtain a well-defined image with a good contrast once rastered. Designs that have a lot of details, for example, maps, would require a good contrast to be seen clearly, hence the need to use colors that are very different in shading.

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Patterns|Patterns]]==
Instead of creating similar shapes repetitively, hence creating a pattern from scratch, you can use the pattern feature found in Inkscape, thus saving you time and contributing to a more refined design.
#Once your design created, navigate to Fill and Stroke->Fill and select the pattern icon (surrounded in yellow in the picture shown below).
[[File:Pattern feature in Inkscape.png|center|500x600px|Pattern feature in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Pattern feature in Inkscape
#Select the pattern you prefer, and you can use the settings on the right (surrounded in red) to adjust the placement of the pattern.</div>Moreover, you can also make a pattern using your preferred images instead of the ones available on Inkscape. To do so, follow the steps below:
#Place the image you would like as a pattern on the canvas. You can also design your own object using the tools present in Inkscape.
#Click on the image, then navigate to Object->Pattern->Objects to Pattern. The pattern will be created and can be found when you go to fill or stroke style and navigate to the pattern icon.

[[File:Creating a pattern.png|center|500x800px|Creating a pattern|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Creating a pattern
3. To use your pattern, place a shape you would want the pattern in and navigate to Fill->Pattern icon and adjust the pattern to perfection.</div>
[[File:Using a created pattern.png|center|500x800px|Using a created pattern|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Using a created pattern</div>
Now, you can create your own patterns and make unique designs for your upcoming projects.

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- IntermediateFilters|Filters]]==
Filters<ref name=":0" /> can enhance simple shapes by adding realistic textures and giving more flair to your design. There are a good number of filters available on Inkscape, ranging from lizard skin to pearl effect. The following picture demonstrates where to access filters and some examples.
[[File: Accessing filters.png|center|500x800px|Accessing filters|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Accessing filters</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Text features|Text features]]==
===Customizing text<ref>https://inkscape.org/doc/tutorials/advanced/tutorial-advanced.html</ref>===
Using the node tool, you can easily manipulate distinct letters of your text and vary their position, shape and color.

Once you have written something on the document, select the text and go to Path->Object to path and make sure the node tool, found below the Selector tool, on the left is chosen.

[[File: Customizing text.png|center|500x800px| Customizing text|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. Customizing text</div>
Then, you will be able to individually select the nodes present and make adjustments to the text.
The following video, demonstrates how to use the node tool:
<youtube>KgAFjB2UUjA</youtube>

===Put text on path===
Instead of having a text on a straight line you can use make a path, and make your text follow that path.
#Draw a path and your text on the same document, select both and navigate to Text, found on the top line.
[[File: Path and text.png|center|400x500px| Path and text|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Path and text
</div>2.There, select, Put on Path[[File:Path feature.png|center|300x300px| Path feature|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15.Path feature</div>
And your text will follow the path you drew:
[[File:Text on path.png|center|300x300px|Text on path|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 16. Text on path</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Path features|Path features]]==
===Line offset===
====Dynamic offset for shape outlines====
Dynamic offset in Inkscape allows you to offset a path or a shape creating an outline, a border or an inset. The following video demonstrates how to use Dynamic offset in Inkscape and the effect it brings to a design.
<youtube>PFfhAwXGIwQ</youtube>
==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Trace bitmap|Trace bitmap]]==
To be able to raster an image obtained online, it must first be converted into a Bitmap, that is, turning the image into a map of pixels that the laser head can follow for an engraving. The simpler the image, the better the results will be. There are different main types of detection modes, namely:

1.<u>Brightness Cut-off:</u>

The higher the threshold is, the fewer the number of pixels that will be considered to be “white”, and the image gets darker.

2.<u>Edge Detection:</u>

Produces a bitmap that will look less like the original image compared to Brightness Threshold but will provide curve information.

3.<u>Color Quantization:</u>

Find edges where colors change, even at equal brightness and contrast.

The following video explains how to use the Trace Bitmap feature in Inkscape and the different detection modes that can be employed.

<youtube>4fjo9_i_nC4</youtube>

The Trace Bitmap feature can be obtained either by right-clicking on the image and selecting Trace Bitmap, as shown in the video or by going to Path->Trace Bitmap:

[[File:Trace Bitmap feature.png|center|400x600px|Trace Bitmap feature|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 17. Trace Bitmap feature</div>

==[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Importing from CAD|Importing from CAD]]==
Instead of designing something in Inkscape, you can also import a file from a CAD software.

If you are using Onshape, for example, right-click on the sketch and select export as DXF/DWG.

[[File:Exporting file.png|center|400x700px|Exporting file|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 18.Exporting file</div>
A dialog box will appear where you will be prompted to choose either DXF or DWG. In this example, DXF R14(Release 14) is chosen.
[[File:Exporting file from CAD.png|center|400x700px|Exporting file from CAD|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 19. Exporting file from CAD</div>

Click on Export once the format chosen.

Open the file on Inkscape, and the following prompt will appear:

[[File:Opening file in Inkscape .png|center|300x500px|Opening file in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Opening DXF/DWG in Inkscape</div>

Select Read from file to ensure that the design in Inkscape has the exact dimensions as the CAD design. Once this is done, you will be able to edit the stroke width of your design to specify if you want a cut or an engraving.

You can save the file as an SVG for any further editing and finally as a PDF when you are ready to send the file to a laser-cutter.

Alternatively, it is also possible to use an online DXF/DWG to SVG converter to convert a CAD file to an Inkscape-compatible file.

* For SolidWorks drawings, follow the steps in the video below:<youtube>ptxyHT09A2M</youtube>
* For Fusion 360 to Inkscape, follow the steps in the video below:

<youtube>iukomA5BzGA</youtube>

=References=

Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate

2025-09-07T15:46:41Z

Gmang049:

=[[Digital technologies/Laser cutting/Vector graphics- Intermediate/Introduction|Introduction]] =
This article is a continuation of the 'Basics of Vector Graphics' article, which demonstrated how to use Inkscape, a vector graphics editor, to prepare your files before using the laser cutters in the Makerspace.

In 'Vector Graphics Intermediate', you will discover other features of Inkscape that can enhance your design and inspire fresh ideas for your projects.

This can range from using extensions, which are premade features that can be easily incorporated into your design with minimum editing required, or even individually making changes to a design using the node tool.

Inkscape is a limitless platform, and this article aims to help you find these features that are mostly left unused but could bring your design to another level.
[[File:Laser Engraving.png|center|400x600px|Laser Engraving|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Laser Engraving</div>

== Extensions ==
Extensions<ref name=":0"><nowiki>https://www.tutkit.com/en/text-tutorials/6478-discover-the-advanced-features-in-inkscape</nowiki></ref> built into Inkscape can make designing easier and add more functionality to the software. There are a diverse number of extensions available in Inkscape for various purposes. For example, if you want to create something round or curved, you can use the Living Hinge extension. An example is shown below:
[[File:Living hinge example.png|center|400x750px|Living hinge example|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Living hinge example</div>
They can be accessed easily from the Extension toolbar, shown in the picture below, while other extensions created by the Inkscape community can easily be downloaded from Inkscape extension gallery online, [https://inkscape.org/gallery/=extension/ here].

[[File:Extensions in Inkscape.png|center|450x750px|Extensions in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3.Extensions in Inkscape</div>

=== Installing an extension ===
To install an extension, follow the following steps:

1.Download and unpack the archive file from the website

2.Determine the location where to copy these files:

In Inkscape: Edit->Preferences-> System: User Extensions

[[File:Installing an extension.png|center|700x500px|Installing an extension]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Installing an extension</div>
3.Locate this path on your computer and copy the two files from the download (.inx and .py files)

4.Restart Inkscape, and you should now be able to access it from the Extensions on the toolbar

==== Extensions in Inkscape ====
Once downloaded, you can find the extensions in Inkscape, available to use in different projects. A commonly used extension is the living hinge.

===== Living hinges =====
A living hinge is a flexible part of an object that allows movement between two segments. It can be attained by creating a series of thin lines that are cut, hence enabling the object to bend without breaking. Instead of creating several lines to be vectored, which can be time-consuming, you can use the available Inkscape extension by going to Extension->Render->Living hinge.

===== Other extensions =====
More extensions are available for download [https://inkscape.org/gallery/=extension/ here].They range from laser-cut boxes, jigsaws, shapes, gears, calendars and much more.

[[File:Other extensions.png|center|400x700px|Other extensions]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Other extensions</div>

==The Node Tool==
The node tool allows free manipulation of an object and the elements it comprises of. It is a powerful tool that can adjust individual nodes of an object instead of the object as a whole. The following video will show how the node tool work and its usefulness when designing.

<youtube>oIXKgnrXpks</youtube>

==Relationship between design color and laser power==
Color of different parts of a design is another factor which contributes to a darker or a lighter engraving. When creating a design, you can use the Fill feature in Inkscape to add color to your design.

[[File:Fill feature.png|center|400x500px|Fill feature]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Fill feature</div>
Using darker colors such as black will result in a darker and deeper image once rastered compared to using lighter colors. An example is shown below:

[[File:Different shadings example.png|center|300x300px|Different shadings example]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7.Different shadings example</div>

The above design comprises of the same text filled with 4 different colors, once rastered, the result obtained is shown below:

[[File:Result obtained for example of different shadings.png|center|300x300px|Result obtained for example of different shadings]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Result obtained for example of different shadings </div>

The darker colors resulted in a darker engraving compared to the last one, which had a lighter fill. Therefore, for a darker engraving, it is generally recommended to use black as the design color.
Another thing to notice is how the first three texts have practically no difference compared to the last one. Since these three had a darker color, they resulted in a similar outcome. It is essential to choose colors that are very different in shade instead of color, for example, black and white, for designs involving a lot of features, to obtain a well-defined image with a good contrast once rastered. Designs that have a lot of details, for example, maps, would require a good contrast to be seen clearly, hence the need to use colors that are very different in shading.

==Patterns==
Instead of creating similar shapes repetitively, hence creating a pattern from scratch, you can use the pattern feature found in Inkscape, thus saving you time and contributing to a more refined design.
#Once your design created, navigate to Fill and Stroke->Fill and select the pattern icon (surrounded in yellow in the picture shown below).
[[File:Pattern feature in Inkscape.png|center|500x600px|Pattern feature in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Pattern feature in Inkscape
#Select the pattern you prefer, and you can use the settings on the right (surrounded in red) to adjust the placement of the pattern.</div>Moreover, you can also make a pattern using your preferred images instead of the ones available on Inkscape. To do so, follow the steps below:
#Place the image you would like as a pattern on the canvas. You can also design your own object using the tools present in Inkscape.
#Click on the image, then navigate to Object->Pattern->Objects to Pattern. The pattern will be created and can be found when you go to fill or stroke style and navigate to the pattern icon.

[[File:Creating a pattern.png|center|500x800px|Creating a pattern|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Creating a pattern</div>
#To use your pattern, place a shape you would want the pattern in and navigate to FillPattern icon and adjust the pattern to perfection.
[[File:Using a created pattern.png|center|500x800px|Using a created pattern|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Using a created pattern</div>
Now, you can create your own patterns and make unique designs for your upcoming projects.

==Filters==
Filters<ref name=":0" /> can enhance simple shapes by adding realistic textures and giving more flair to your design. There are a good number of filters available on Inkscape, ranging from lizard skin to pearl effect. The following picture demonstrates where to access filters and some examples.
[[File: Accessing filters.png|center|500x800px|Accessing filters|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Accessing filters</div>

==Text features==
===Customizing text<ref>https://inkscape.org/doc/tutorials/advanced/tutorial-advanced.html</ref>===
Using the node tool, you can easily manipulate distinct letters of your text and vary their position, shape and color.

Once you have written something on the document, select the text and go to Path->Object to path and make sure the node tool, found below the Selector tool, on the left is chosen.

[[File: Customizing text.png|center|500x800px| Customizing text|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 13. Customizing text</div>
Then, you will be able to individually select the nodes present and make adjustments to the text.
The following video, demonstrates how to use the node tool:
<youtube>KgAFjB2UUjA</youtube>

===Put text on path===
Instead of having a text on a straight line you can use make a path, and make your text follow that path.
#Draw a path and your text on the same document, select both and navigate to Text, found on the top line.
[[File: Path and text.png|center|400x500px| Path and text|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 14. Path and text
</div>2.There, select, Put on Path[[File:Path feature.png|center|300x300px| Path feature|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 15.Path feature</div>
And your text will follow the path you drew:
[[File:Text on path.png|center|300x300px|Text on path|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 16. Text on path</div>

==Path features==
===Line offset===
====Dynamic offset for shape outlines====
Dynamic offset in Inkscape allows you to offset a path or a shape creating an outline, a border or an inset. The following video demonstrates how to use Dynamic offset in Inkscape and the effect it brings to a design.
<youtube>PFfhAwXGIwQ</youtube>
==Trace bitmap==
To be able to raster an image obtained online, it must first be converted into a Bitmap, that is, turning the image into a map of pixels that the laser head can follow for an engraving. The simpler the image, the better the results will be. There are different main types of detection modes, namely:

1.<u>Brightness Cut-off:</u>

The higher the threshold is, the fewer the number of pixels that will be considered to be “white”, and the image gets darker.

2.<u>Edge Detection:</u>

Produces a bitmap that will look less like the original image compared to Brightness Threshold but will provide curve information.

3.<u>Color Quantization:</u>

Find edges where colors change, even at equal brightness and contrast.

The following video explains how to use the Trace Bitmap feature in Inkscape and the different detection modes that can be employed.

<youtube>4fjo9_i_nC4</youtube>

The Trace Bitmap feature can be obtained either by right-clicking on the image and selecting Trace Bitmap, as shown in the video or by going to Path->Trace Bitmap:

[[File:Trace Bitmap feature.png|center|400x600px|Trace Bitmap feature|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 17. Trace Bitmap feature</div>

==Importing from CAD==
Instead of designing something in Inkscape, you can also import a file from a CAD software.

If you are using Onshape, for example, right-click on the sketch and select export as DXF/DWG.

[[File:Exporting file.png|center|400x700px|Exporting file|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 18.Exporting file</div>
A dialog box will appear where you will be prompted to choose either DXF or DWG. In this example, DXF R14(Release 14) is chosen.
[[File:Exporting file from CAD.png|center|400x700px|Exporting file from CAD|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 19. Exporting file from CAD</div>

Click on Export once the format chosen.

Open the file on Inkscape, and the following prompt will appear:

[[File:Opening file in Inkscape .png|center|300x500px|Opening file in Inkscape|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 20. Opening DXF/DWG in Inkscape</div>

Select Read from file to ensure that the design in Inkscape has the exact dimensions as the CAD design. Once this is done, you will be able to edit the stroke width of your design to specify if you want a cut or an engraving.

You can save the file as an SVG for any further editing and finally as a PDF when you are ready to send the file to a laser-cutter.

Alternatively, it is also possible to use an online DXF/DWG to SVG converter to convert a CAD file to an Inkscape-compatible file.

* For SolidWorks drawings, follow the steps in the video below:<youtube>ptxyHT09A2M</youtube>
* For Fusion 360 to Inkscape, follow the steps in the video below:

<youtube>iukomA5BzGA</youtube>

=References=

Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner

2025-08-29T07:32:10Z

Gmang049:

[[File:FDM Benchy.png|thumb|A benchy model printed using FDM technology. The benchy is a small boat model typically used for benchmarking printers, making sure the settings are correct and the printer is well tuned.]]
This video shows a short overview of the 3D printing process with an Ultimaker 2+ from downloading Cura to starting the print:

<youtube>bcjW5PdES7U</youtube>

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process which creates a three-dimensional object from a digital model. At the uOttawa Makerspace, we use FDM (fused deposition modeling) which works by slicing the model into layers and then printing one layer on top of the other. The type of printer, and the options that are fitted to the printer, determine the capabilities in terms of accuracy, speed, and complexity a printer is capable of. The printer extruder and nozzle combination will dictate what materials the printer is capable of using. Multiple extrusion heads enable for different materials to be used during the same print and are common on more commercially-targeted products but can also be fitted to high-end personal-use models. This can enable a printer to use weaker (or even dissolvable) support material for easy removal, or the ability to add colour schemes to a print for aesthetic purposes. Heated build plates are fairly common, and are used to improve the quality of prints by reducing the heat stress placed on a component during printing and cooling. In addition, many printers are open source projects, enabling users to edit the printer’s software, and even use it to build their own printer. The material most commonly used in the Makerspace is a type of plastic known as PLA (Polylactic acid). This plastic is used for 3D printing because of its relatively low melting point and very low shrinkage rate. While the Makerspace owns a variety of FDM printer models, this beginner page will focus on the Ultimaker 2+ which is the main model of printer used.

Most of the material in this wiki page is also covered in the CEED's interactive trainings.

If you wish to follow the virtual 3D printing training, it is available [https://makerepo.com/jboud030/1220.imprimante-3d-virtuelle-virtual-3d-printing at this link].

'''<u>[[Digital technologies/3D printing/Tutorial: How to 3D print|If you only need a quick refresher, or you want to 3D print something without going into depth in the subject matter, you can find a tutorial by clicking here.]]</u>'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/How do FDM Printers Work?|How do FDM Printers Work?]]==
[[File:FDM Printing Process.png|thumb|Image showing how material is laid down in layers to build up a 3D object in the FDM printing process.<ref>Gringer (Wikipedia User, 2018). Fused Filament Fabrication. Wikipedia. Accessed 2022-07-25 at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication</ref>|alt=]]
<youtube>1wk-P-_RC5c</youtube>[[File:FDM Layers.jpg|A closeup of an FDM print. In this picture, you can see the layers that make up the print.<ref>Redwood, Ben (2022). ''How does part orientation affect a 3D print?'' Hubs, a Protolabs company. Accessed on 12/05/2022 at https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-does-part-orientation-affect-3d-print/</ref>|alt=|thumb]]

Fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers extrude melted material through a nozzle. As this happens, the nozzle is moved along a predetermined toolpath (a set of spatial coordinates), laying the extruded material on existing surfaces along the way. The toolpath is generated from CAD models in a software called a slicer software, named this way given that it slices 3D models in thin 2D layers which when stacked reform the original model.
=== Important Parameters ===
It is important to keep a few parameters in mind when FDM printing. Using the proper parameters will ensure that your print comes out right!

==== Nozzle Size ====
The nozzle size is an important parameter that affects the quality of the print you will obtain. Depending on the size of your print, as well as the desired quality, you may choose different nozzle sizes. Larger nozzles will be able to output more material such that prints on large nozzle printers will take less time (provided that other parameters such as layer height and printer speed are adjusted to take the larger nozzle into account). On the opposite side of the spectrum, smaller nozzle sizes will lead to a slower print, but finer feature qualities. At the Makerspace, we have 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles on our printers, the most popular sizes being 0.4mm and 0.8mm. Most desktop printers will have a 0.4mm nozzle size by default as this size strikes a nice balance between quality of print and print times. Laws of geometry being what they are, however, the amount of material you can output through the nozzle of your printer increases by a power of 2 as you increase nozzle sizes, such that you can expect to reduce printing times by roughly a factor of 4 by going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle (don't rely solely on presets to try to replicate these results, other settings need tweaking such as layer height and printer speed to reproduce this ratio of nozzle size to print time).

==== Layer Height ====
The Layer height is the second and most obvious parameter to tweak in order to obtain the preferred results. Larger layer heights will lead to coarser resolution in height (along the Z axis). Lower layer heights will lead to higher resolutions along Z, but will also increase the print time drastically. Note that using larger nozzles will allow you to use larger layer heights due to the extra volumetric flow obtainable. See below for an example.
[[File:Layer-height orig.jpg|center|frame|Effect of layer heights on Z quality.<ref>B3D Online (2022). FFF/FDM 3D Print 101-Layer Height, Infill & Support. Accessed 2022/05/16 at <nowiki>https://www.b3d-online.com/blog-news/ffffdm-3d-print-101-layer-height-infill-support</nowiki></ref>]]

==== Print Speed ====
The print speed is another one of those obvious parameters that will affect print times. Since the beginner slicing methods do not include modifications to print speed, going over this parameter was considered out of the scope of beginner knowledge and such print speed will be discussed in the intermediate page.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/FDM Printer Components|FDM Printer Components]]==

===Extruder and Nozzle (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The extruder heats and pulls partially melted filament into the nozzle. During a print, the extruder and nozzle will heat up to over 210°C, so exercise caution around it. The location of the printer nozzle and extruder is controlled on an axis system (typically) made up of belts and gears. This assembly can be moved while the printer is idle by gently pulling on the extruder/nozzle assembly, being careful as parts of this assembly can be extremely hot even after a print has finished. If the printer is printing, or has recently been printing, the motors will still be engaged. Set the printer to idle and wait a few minutes, or power off the machine to disengage the motor lock.

===Build Plate (CAUTION: HOT!)===
The build surface is where the printed part is placed on. On most of the Makerspace printers the build plate is heated to 60°C (and can go as high as 110°C) during printing, so exercise caution around it. The plate can be raised or lowered while the printer is idle by going to ''Maintenance→Advanced→Raise/Lower Build Plate''.

===Filament Spool===
The filament spool can be found attached to the back of the printer. The spool is essentially a filament roll. As the printer uses up the filament, the spool unrolls. Before printing, it is a good habit to check filament levels on the printer. You may find steps for replacing the filament [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Intermediate|in the intermediate page]].
[[File:Ultimaker2+ Overview.PNG|center|thumb|1000x1000px|An overview of the Ultimaker 2 parts. Most FDM printers contain the same components.<ref>Modified from Ultimaker B.V. ''Ultimaker 2 User Manual''. Consulted on 2022/05/16 at https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011955399-The-Ultimaker-2-user-manual</ref>]]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Which 3D Printers do we have?|Which 3D printers do we have?]] ==

The following are the printers available for use at the Makerspaceː {{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Ultimaker 2+
| image = Ultimaker2+.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.06
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 223
| buildDepth = 223
| buildHeight = 205
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Ultimaker 3
| image = Ultimaker3.png
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| materials = PLA, PVA, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.02
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 215
| buildDepth = 215
| buildHeight = 200
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = MakerBot Replicator 2
| image = Replicator2.png
| slicerName = MakerBot Print
| slicerLink = https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/MakerBot-Desktop-Download
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 285
| buildDepth = 153
| buildHeight = 155
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Dremel 3D20
| image = Dremel-3D20.png
| slicerName = DigiLab 3D
| slicerLink = https://digilab.dremel.com/3D-software
| buildVolume = 230 × 150 × 140 mm
| materials = PLA
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 230
| buildDepth = 150
| buildHeight = 140
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Raise3D N2 Plus
| image = Raise3D_N2_Plus.png
| slicerName = ideaMaker
| slicerLink = https://www.raise3d.com/pages/download
| buildVolume = 304.8 × 304.8 × 609.6 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, PVA, Flexible
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 305
| buildDepth = 305
| buildHeight = 605
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = FLsun v400
| image = Flsun v400.jpg
| slicerName = Cura
| slicerLink = https://ultimaker.com/cura
| buildVolume = ⌀300 × 410 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, Flexible, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.05
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 300
| buildDepth = 300
| buildHeight = 410
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Markforged Mark Two
| image = Mk2.png
| slicerName = Eiger
| slicerLink = https://www.eiger.io/signin
| buildVolume = 320 × 132 × 154 mm
| materials = Nylon, Onyx, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Kevlar
| minLayerHeight = 0.1
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 320
| buildDepth = 132
| buildHeight = 154
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Stratasys Dimension SST 1200es
| image = Dimension-1200es.jpg
| slicerName = GrabCAD Print
| slicerLink = https://grabcad.com/print
| buildVolume = 254 × 254 × 305 mm
| materials = ABS, Soluble support
| minLayerHeight = 0.254
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 254
| buildDepth = 254
| buildHeight = 305
| moreInformation = https://en.wiki.makerepo.com/wiki/Stratasys_Dimension_SST
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Stratasys F170
| image = stratasys-f170.jpg
| slicerName = GrabCAD Print
| slicerLink = https://grabcad.com/print
| buildVolume = 254 × 254 × 254 mm
| materials = PLA, ABS, ASA, TPU, Soluble support
| minLayerHeight = 0.127
| heatedBuildPlate = Yes
| float = none
| buildWidth = 254
| buildDepth = 254
| buildHeight = 254
}}

{{PrinterInfobox2
| name = Elegoo Saturn 2 8k
| image = elegoo saturn 2.jpg
| slicerName = ChituBox
| slicerLink = https://www.chitubox.com/en/download/chitubox-free
| buildVolume = 218.88 × 123.12 × 250 mm
| materials = Standard, ABS-like, rubber, etc
| minLayerHeight = 0.01
| heatedBuildPlate = No
| float = none
| buildWidth = 218.88
| buildDepth = 123.12
| buildHeight = 250
}}

Most of the time, prototyping projects at the Makerspace will make use of the Ultimaker 2+. However, if a product requirement or design refinement calls for the use of other materials, better quality, faster print times, etc., some printers can be much more suitable. For instance, the Ultimaker 3 can print with various materials and is equipped with two extruder heads. However, this printer is extremely slowǃ For faster prints, the Dremel and Makerbot Replicator 2 printers are faster than the UM3 and even the UM2%2B, which can be increasingly important in a production or a rapid prototyping environment. The other printers listed, the Makerspace charges for as they are specialty printers. These (Raise and the Mark II) are extremely reliable printers. They can also perform overnight prints which greatly expands the realm of possibilities in print size, reliability and quality due to the slower speeds which can be afforded. The Mark II is especially suited for load bearing prints as it uses carbon fiber reinforced nylon and can lay continuous carbon/glass/kevlar fibers inside the prints for added rigidity. Feel free to consult the pages for each printer for more information on each printers' recommended slicer settings, use cases, and design resources.

[[Tutorial-3D printing with resin|'''<u>If you need a quick tutorial on how to use the resin printer at the Makerspace, click on this link.</u>''']]

== [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing|Safety Considerations for FDM 3D Printing]] ==
<youtube>Jj2cx4nQ3IE</youtube>

=== Burn Hazard ===
Since FDM 3D printers melt materials, these carry an important burn hazard. Refrain from touching the 3D printer nozzle (200°C and hotter) and build plate (60°C and hotter). Hot parts are typically labelled on machines, but it can happen for the labelling to become worn down, and such it is important for you to know of these hazards so you may protect yourself against them.

=== Respiratory Hazard ===
It has been reported that materials melted by FDM printers can release harmful airborne particulates. It is important to use 3D printers in well ventilated areas or to use printers equipped with an air extractor. Air quality measurements of our Makerspace (STEM 107) have been professionally taken with 24 Ultimaker 2+ printers running for extended periods of time (as would be the case on a very busy day at the Makerspace). Thanks to proper ventilation of the space, the particulate concentration measured is well below regulatory limits.

=== Fire Hazard ===
Since the 3D printing process involves lots of heat and plastics, most of which are flammable, if the plastic being used runs out or accumulates around the printer nozzle and the temperature sensors limiting the nozzle temperature malfunctions, the printer could catch fire from overheating. This is why unsupervised (such as overnight) printing is prohibited on printers that have no shutoff mechanisms that would avoid conditions that may lead to the printer catching fire.

=== Pinch Hazard ===
Since printers have exposed moving parts, and the movements of the print head can be unexpected, the printers present a pinch hazard. Avoid introducing body parts close to a printer's moving parts.

=== Bodily Harm Hazard ===
''<u>While bodily harm hazards are not applicable to the small FDM printers in our Makerspace</u>'', they may be very real on larger printers where the drive mechanisms are very powerful to account for fast and accurate movements of a heavy print head. As a general rule when working with industrial machinery, please refrain from introducing any parts of your body within the range of movement of the print head or near exposed moving parts of machinery while it is powered on.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/3D printing in our Makerspace|3D printing in our Makerspace]]==
At the uOttawa Makerspace we have several different types (brands) of printers. When 3D printing in our Makerspace, you will encounter either the Ultimakers, MakerBots, or Dremels. In general, at a high level, the process for 3D printing is always the same. Typically, 3D printing on a hobbyist level is an iterative process in which you may have to tweak your models for the printer you are using. The following flowchart is a generalized yet important view of the typical workflow for 3D printing in the Makerspace.

[[File:3D Printing Workflow.png|alt=3D printing workflow|center|600x600px|The 3D printing workflow]]

===Create or Find a 3D model===
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There are many ways to create or find a 3D model. If you want to browse through a library, [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] or [https://www.youmagine.com/ Youmagine]. These sites are a great way to inspire yourself. If you are more of a do it yourself type of person there are several programs you can try.

If you are a beginner, try [https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad]. This is a browser based 3D design application that is very simple to learn. For more information check out [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Beginner|this handy guide]]. If you need something a little more advanced, you can use Solidworks, AutoCAD, Fusion360 or any other 3D modeling software. If you have your own components you would like to reverse engineer, you may also [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D modeling- Advanced/3D Scanning|3D scan them]] in the Makerspace!

===Save or download the model as an stl===
What is an stl file? It is a ''stereolithography'' (an old cad software) file format, but is was later adapted as a standard file format. STL stands for "standard triangle language". This type of file uses a web of polygons to describe a 3D object. It is this easiest and the default file type with most of 3D printing software.

In Tinkercad, click on '''Export''' a new window will pop up and then select *'''.STL'''

In Solidworks, click ''File→Save As''. A new window will appear. Choose the file type *.stl.

===Slicing===
<youtube>T504plWqgUk</youtube>
====Open Model====
Your ''stl'' file contains a set of triangular faces in 3D space. If you send this to a 3D printer, it will not know what to do. A slicer “slices” the 3D object into layers and then generates machine code (contained in a gCode file). Different printers work better with different slicers. The slicers need to be downloaded onto your computer. If you happen to not have access to a personal computer in our space, note that all our computers have all the software required to slice a print for any of the printers available for you to use.

====Slice the Model for your printer====
All Ultimaker printers have Cura as a slicer

#Open the file in Cura.
#Select the settings you want for your print (have a look at [[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner#Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|the next section]] to see how to do this, including reorienting and moving your part).
#Click slice (have a look at the preview of your slice if you want to see the toolpath slice by slice).
#Make sure the print will finish within Makerspace Open Hours: If a print is not finish before closing time, it will be cancelled by the employee and you will have to restart the next time Makerspace is open.
#Save to file (this creates a gCode file). ''Note: you may skip this step if you do not care for keeping the file on your computer.''
#Save the gCode file to an SD card.

===Start the print===
<youtube>OMMxTcKfscY</youtube>

Starting your print is very simple. Simply save your file to an SD card and click print.

#Save your file to an SD card. Any size SD card will work (gCode files are very small).
#Walk over to the printer and insert the card into the SD card slot located on the front of the printer.
#Turn on the printer. There is an on/off switch located at the back, on the left hand side of the Ultimaker. This is also a good time to make sure that there is sufficient filament loaded into the printer.
#Using the knob, select print. To “select” you simply press on the knob. This will take you to the SD card page, scroll through the files and select yours. Usually the most recent files are found at the bottom of the list. Selecting the file should start your print.
#We ask that you remain with your print for the first few layers. If you print fails and you are not there to tend to it, we will
##Be slightly annoyed as failed prints can damage the printers;
##Remove your print and free up the printer for someone else.

=== Use Cases for Prints in our Makerspace ===
The 3D printers in our Makerspace are for hobbyist and very low volume production projects. It is to be understood that these are the printers owned by the space since those are the people for which the space exist: students and hobbyists who are getting their first exposures to additive manufacturing but also those people who would like to use the space for personal projects. For this reason, it is free for you to print with PLA or ABS (ABS being on request since all printers are loaded with PLA by default). The Ultimaker 2+, our main model of printer is easy to maintain, user friendly, and CURA (its recommended slicer) is packed with features that allow for tuning the printer for you to be able to experiment and eventually obtain the result you want. This comes with advantages and disadvantages. This can be advantageous if you want to run with a variety of different qualities or settings (i.e.: great for learning about 3D printing!). On the disadvantageous side, this means the prints do not always work at the simple click of a button, and even if they do, they might not be a good representation of the part that you wanted to make (due to manufacturing defects such as warping, lack of overhangs, improper overhang placement, under- or over-extrusion, etc.).

Industry-grade printers are the opposite. You will find that you have very little control over the parameters of the print, and the printer will be slow at printing, but the print will come out almost perfect most times. The Makerspace has the Makrforged Mark II as well as a Dimension 1200es printer for those who would like to get professional, industry-grade prints, but since the consumables for those printers are expensive and since not many people use these printers, the makerspace charges for prints made on them. If you think your application requires specialty materials or the extra quality that these industry grade printers provide, please do not hesitate to [[How to submit an Order Request|submit a print order]] through our system. We'll be happy to work with you on getting your part manufactured.

With the large amount of modifications you can make to your print settings as well as the fact parts printed in the Makerspace are typically PLA, parts printed in the Makerspace are perfect for small prototype enclosures, prototype organic shapes such as ergonomic designs, flexible (clamping) shaft stops, spacers or linear bearing housings (to name a few). They can also be used for prototype bracketing for low load applications. They are ''not'' for the manufacturing of extreme precision components or components that will encounter high loads.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner|Choosing your Slicer Settings as a Beginner]]==
Since the Ultimakers are the most frequently used printers at the Makerspace, this article will be focused on the use of the "Cura" slicer, specifically Cura version 4.x.x. While this article may be specific to Cura, the software is based on an open source engine, so the same principles and settings should carry over to any slicer. This article will also focus only on the beginner "Recommended" settings interface.

===Choose your 3D Printer===
After installing Cura, you will be prompted to select your model of 3D printer. If you are printing at the Makerspace, this means you must select the Ultimaker 2+ or the Ultimaker 3 from the "Add a non-networked printer" window. Once selected, your Cura window should now display a visual representation of the interior available print volume.

===Load your 3D Model===
Once the correct 3D printer has been selected, load your model (.stl or .obj file) into Cura. This can be done by either dragging the file and dropping it into the Cura window, by clicking File -> Open Files (Ctrl+O), or by clicking the "Folder shaped" icon.

===Position your Part on the Print Bed===
[[File:CURA Position EN.png|alt=Tools for positionning|thumb|These are some of the tools that are at your disposition to position the imported CAD model.]]
In Ultimaker Cura, moving your part around, rotating it, scaling it, or mirroring it, are very simple tasks. All you have to do is select your component, and from the choices on the left side of your screen, you may perform any of these aforementioned operations. Have a look at the tools that are at your disposition in the picture on the right.
===Choose your Layer Height===
Under the "Print settings" window, you will notice a slider referred to as "Profiles - Default", with numbers ranging from 0.06 to 0.6. The numbers refer to the layer height (sometimes referred to as "resolution") in millimeters, which is the vertical (Z-axis) height of each layer of plastic the printer lays down. The lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print, but the vertical quality (slopes) will be better. If your model lacks any slopes or curves running vertically, lower layer height numbers will only take longer to print, without adding any major improvements in quality.

Weigh the pros and cons for your specific model, decide on what layer height you want to use, and click on the slider which layer height you want to print in. In most cases, <u>0.15mm layer heights is a good balance of speed and quality.</u>

===Choose your Infill Percentage===
To save on material, rather than completely fill a print a solid part with plastic, 3D printers will print what is called an "infill". Infills are usually by default a grid-like pattern that gives a 3D printed part rigidity and density. The "Infill (%)" slider allows you to select how dense (in percentage) the grid pattern inside the model will be, 0% being completely hollow, and 100% being completely solid. The higher the infill percentage, the stronger your part will be, but the longer it'll take to print.

It is a common misconception that 100% is always the best solution to creating a strong part. While 100% infill will create the strongest possible part, the ratio between printing time and part strength worsens as you increase the infill density, especially after approximately 60%. Selecting 100% is therefore often a waste of time and material in comparison to lower infills.<ref>Alvarez C, Kenny L, Lagos C, Rodrigo F, & Aizpun, Miguel. (2016). ''Investigating the influence of infill percentage on the mechanical properties of fused deposition modelled ABS parts.'' Ingeniería e Investigación, 36(3), 110-116. Available online: http://www.scielo.org.co/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0120-56092016000300015</ref>

In other words, if your part will not be facing any mechanical strain, <u>we recommend you select an infill percentage between 5-20%</u>. If high strains are expected and thus strength is required, <u>use 60% at the very most</u>.

===Supports===
Support towers are columns of printed material (usually the same material as your printed model), designed to add support to any "un-printable areas" during the printing process. The support towers are designed to be "easy to remove" once the print has finished (you may find that this isn't always the case however), and for many models it may be necessary to enable supports in order to ensure successful printing. Once your print is completed, you will have to remove the support material with your hands, or with tweezers if necessary.

Ideally, you would have designed your model to have as little overhangs or suspended parts as possible, though sometimes that will be unavoidable. By clicking the "Support" check box on Cura will have the software automatically generate support towers to any areas of your print that the software determines as a "challenging area" (overhangs, parts suspended mid-air etc...). <u>If you are unsure whether your model needs supports, keep the box checked to be safe.</u>

===Adhesion===
You'll notice that this box is checked by default. In the context of the "Recommended Settings" window on Cura, "Adhesion" refers to an outer thin "brim" of plastic printed around the model (there are different types of adhesion, which will be explained in-depth in the advanced article). This brim is to ensure that the part stays in place during the printing process. The brim of plastic should peel off very easily, so it is extremely beneficial and there are almost no downsides to having this setting enabled. <u>As a beginner, we recommend that you keep this box checked.</u>

===Previewing a Slice===
Previewing a slice can be a valuable tool in that it can save you lots time. Once a model is sliced, most software have a preview function that will simulate the final print. Cura allows simulating a print by going to the "Preview" tab. Previews will have extra features showing, such as support geometry and the brim, to name some. The preview will also allow you to see your print, slice by slice, using the slider on the right of the screen. This allows you to see the part infill geometry. The slice-by-slice preview will also let you see if all your desired features will come out well with the slice settings you chose.

It should be noted that Cura can open G-Code files, but only for previewing purposes. The .STL or .OBJ that was used to create a G-Code file cannot be restored from G-Code using slicer software.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Supports|When to Use Supports?]]==
[[File:TOverhang.jpg|thumb|Without supports, printing the letter "T" will result in failure or reduced quality.]][[File:Yoverhang.jpg|thumb|Unlike the letter "T", printing the letter "Y" without supports will be successful. ]]
Supports are one of the most significant contributors of the quality of your print, for better or worse. Since 3D printers cannot defy gravity, most models with any geometry suspended in mid-air will require some form of support structure to ensure a successful print. However, since support structures will make contact with your model, surface scars will form at these points of contact, and enabling supports for a print that does not require them will lead to worse quality for no benefit. Using supports when they aren't necessary also leads to wasted plastic, and more time wasted removing them afterwards. Thus, being able to recognize when supports AREN'T required, and knowing what settings to use if they ARE required are essential skills for a 3D printing enthusiast!

===Overhangs===
Imagine 3D printing the capital letter "T" in an upright orientation. This would be referred to as an "overhang," as a portion of the "T" overhangs from either the left or right sides of the letter. Since the 3D printer isn't capable of laying down flat and even layers of plastic in midair, this print would most likely fail or result in "stringy" quality on the overhanging surfaces. ''A "T-Overhang" would be an example of an overhang that would require the use of supports.''

However, not all overhangs require supports, imagine 3D printing the capital letter "Y" in an upright orientation. This would also be referred to as an overhang, since the top of the "Y" will overhang from either the left or right sides. One may think because of the overhangs, supports would be required, however, printing the "Y" without any supports would result in a successful print. Since the overhanging portions of the "Y" gradually slope upwards, and the 3D printers operate on a layer-by-layer basis, each layer of the "overhanging portion" will be supported by the previous layer. ''These overhanging portions are often described with the term "overhang angle", and an overhang angle of less than 45° is usually safe to print without supports.'' Since the "T" has an overhang angle of 90° with the vertical, it would be considered unsafe to print without supports.

Therefore, when designing models for 3D printing, avoid "T" style overhangs, and use overhanging angles of 45° (or less) as much as possible. If you're printing a model with overhangs, try to re-orient it to minimize the amount of "T" style overhangs. For example, orienting the letter "T" so that it lays flat on the bed ensures that supports will not be required.

===Bridges===

Bridges are overhanging sections that are supported by two or more model sections (e.g.: the middle section of an H is a bridge). It can be possible to print bridges without the use of supports, though one should take care to optimize their printer settings (lower temperature, higher fan speed, etc.) to limit drool. Tuning a printer or adapting a slice for bridging demands a deep understanding of the fundamentals, and such, these will only be discussed in a more advanced 3D printing learning module.

===Removing Supports===
Removal of supports can also determine if one wants to use them. In prints using larger nozzle sizes (hotter nozzle, higher material flow), supports might be firmly fused to the model being printed. In such cases, removing supports might be extremely difficult. However, when using optimal settings, supports will be easy to remove. They typically break off with little effort. A pair of small long nose pliers can also come in very handy when removing supports.

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/Troubleshooting a failing print|Troubleshooting a failing print]]==
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Many things can go wrong when 3D printing. Thankfully, using recommended settings should always work well, and such, diagnosing a failing print is fairly easy. The following are a set of issues, possible causes, as well as potential fixes.
{| class="wikitable"
|+Troubleshooting Table when FDM 3D Printing
!Issue (symptom)
!Possible Cause (diagnosis)
!Potential Fix (cure)
|-
|Warping
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)<sup>*</sup>
|-
| rowspan="2" |Bad adhesion
|Not enough/too much model base surface contact to the print bed
|Use a brim or a raft (adhesion)
|-
|Uneven print bed/Bed too far from nozzle at initial layer
|Relevel the buildplate
|-
| rowspan="2" |No extrusion
|No filament
|Replace filament spool
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
| rowspan="3" |Underextrusion
|The forwarding mechanism (gearbox) ground through the filament
|Move the filament out of the forwarding mechanism. Use the change material feature to speed up the removal. While the mechanism is whirring to remove the material, pull slightly on the filament, at the back of the printer for the mechanism to grab. Break the filament clean off at the section where the filament was ground, clean up the end by cutting it off. Re-forward the material into the printer, making sure the right material is chosen in the menu.
|-
|Wet (very brittle) filament
|Remove wet section of the filament (0.25 to 0.5m length) and re-load
|-
|Filament clog
|Keep in mind that it is uncommon that this is the actual cause of lack of extrusion. Ask a Makerspace employee to assist with further diagnosis
|-
|Print not level
|Model not well seated on bed (in slicer)
|Use the snap to bed feature in your slicer (when available), add a brim to preview which flat sections are well seated on the bed
|-
|Drooling
|No supports when needed
|Add supports
|}
'''*Though it may be counterintuitive to increase part base area with a brim when the issue is that the base surface is too large, using a brim permits leads to reduced warping. If warping does occur, the brim acts as a sacrificial piece (reducing the impact to the part with little to no negative impact on print time or post processing time).'''

==[[Digital technologies/3D printing/3D printing- Beginner/What not to print|What not to print on a 3D printer]]==
3D printers are extremely versatile and wonderful for fast prototyping, but there are things that you should not print on a 3D printer, either because there is a better way to do it, or because the features you are trying to print are simply not going to come out well.

===Machine Threads===
Machine threads are probably the last thing you want to try to 3D print. The threads are way too small to come out well. Your threads will not look nice, and your screws will not thread in properly. If you really need a machine thread in your design (which is typical of designs), consider using a [https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-inserts heat insert] (single or double vane depending on the pull-out resistance you're looking for) or an [https://www.mcmaster.com/expanding-inserts-for-plastic expanding insert for plastic] (though expanding inserts might put too much pressure on the part and split it). Inserts might be available in the Makerstore but otherwise are available at the previously linked pages. Make sure to specify the holes in your designs as per the datasheet provided. A design guide is provided in the Advanced CAD modeling for 3D printing page for convenience. Adhering to this design guide will greatly simplify the heat insert installation process.
[[File:Things not to print.png|alt=A picture of what not to print|center|thumb|500x500px|A quick overview of what you should not be printing on a 3D printer.<ref>Modified from content accessible through https://www.freepik.com/vectors/elements.</ref> The world of fasteners is complex enough as-is, and hardware is cheap and plentiful, you will likely be much happier with even a poor quality fastener than you ever would with a 3D printed fastener. A standard nut and bolt will cost you approximately 5 cents whereas a print will cost you a headache.<ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A150/</ref><ref>https://www.mcmaster.com/90593A003/</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/39022</ref><ref>https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/40146</ref>]]

===Electronics Enclosures===
We of course have all grow up surrounded by plastics as the main enclosure material. This is not wrong. When enclosing electronics, an insulating material is definitely recommended. Injection molded enclosures are also much more suitable for production runs on products. 3D printed, however, an electronics enclosure can end up being a waste of time. The prints will take ages to complete, and chances are the 8 hours you are allowed for a print at the Makerspace will not be sufficient. Designers should notice that larger electronics enclosures often have large flat sections. Large flat sections are so much easier to laser cut than to 3D print. Consider cutting out large flat sections from your designs are replacing them with a laser cut panels. Otherwise, consider laser cutting the whole enclosure! See the [[Digital technologies/Laser cutting|Laser Cutting]] pages for design resources.

==References==
<references />

#

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:35:04Z

Gmang049: /* Cured Parts-Green Tray */

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|300x500px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|400x300px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|400x300px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is '''toxic''', and a '''skin irritant''', especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear '''gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeves''' when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the '''ventilation is on''' for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

<u>Accidental Resin Spill</u>:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: [https://www.elegoo.com/blogs/3d-printing/elegoo-resin-sds?srsltid=AfmBOooyOwv0QQ1wtVA-YZtwB_RBzRWi1P7u6Mdpvrkrb9tP6NvwGgsx MSDS]

'''Resin Disposal Disclaimer'''

All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…

Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download [https://www.chitubox.com/ chitubox] software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|200x400px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

<u>Important requirements</u>
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool. If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out

* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened Chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,

1. Open your file in the slicer,

2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensions using the scale feature

3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|400x300px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.

5. Slice it.

6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color. You have access to the [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view resin settings table].

[[File: Print settings resin.png|center|500x700px|Print settings resin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer

8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|200x300px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|200x300px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:34:51Z

Gmang049: /* Drying */

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|300x500px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|400x300px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|400x300px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is '''toxic''', and a '''skin irritant''', especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear '''gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeves''' when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the '''ventilation is on''' for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

<u>Accidental Resin Spill</u>:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: [https://www.elegoo.com/blogs/3d-printing/elegoo-resin-sds?srsltid=AfmBOooyOwv0QQ1wtVA-YZtwB_RBzRWi1P7u6Mdpvrkrb9tP6NvwGgsx MSDS]

'''Resin Disposal Disclaimer'''

All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…

Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download [https://www.chitubox.com/ chitubox] software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|200x400px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

<u>Important requirements</u>
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool. If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out

* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened Chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,

1. Open your file in the slicer,

2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensions using the scale feature

3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|400x300px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.

5. Slice it.

6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color. You have access to the [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view resin settings table].

[[File: Print settings resin.png|center|500x700px|Print settings resin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer

8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|200x300px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

File:Finished print after curing.png

2025-08-27T10:34:16Z

Gmang049:

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:33:37Z

Gmang049: /* Drying */

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|300x500px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|400x300px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|400x300px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is '''toxic''', and a '''skin irritant''', especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear '''gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeves''' when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the '''ventilation is on''' for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

<u>Accidental Resin Spill</u>:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: [https://www.elegoo.com/blogs/3d-printing/elegoo-resin-sds?srsltid=AfmBOooyOwv0QQ1wtVA-YZtwB_RBzRWi1P7u6Mdpvrkrb9tP6NvwGgsx MSDS]

'''Resin Disposal Disclaimer'''

All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…

Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download [https://www.chitubox.com/ chitubox] software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|200x400px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

<u>Important requirements</u>
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool. If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out

* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened Chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,

1. Open your file in the slicer,

2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensions using the scale feature

3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|400x300px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.

5. Slice it.

6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color. You have access to the [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view resin settings table].

[[File: Print settings resin.png|center|500x700px|Print settings resin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer

8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|300x400px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

File:Finished print after washing.png

2025-08-27T10:33:13Z

Gmang049:

File:Finished print on build-plate.png

2025-08-27T10:32:30Z

Gmang049:

File:Post-printing process.png

2025-08-27T10:31:57Z

Gmang049:

File:Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png

2025-08-27T10:31:18Z

Gmang049:

File:Print settings resin.png

2025-08-27T10:30:25Z

Gmang049:

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:29:48Z

Gmang049: /* Slicer settings */

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|300x500px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|400x300px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|400x300px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is '''toxic''', and a '''skin irritant''', especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear '''gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeves''' when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the '''ventilation is on''' for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

<u>Accidental Resin Spill</u>:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: [https://www.elegoo.com/blogs/3d-printing/elegoo-resin-sds?srsltid=AfmBOooyOwv0QQ1wtVA-YZtwB_RBzRWi1P7u6Mdpvrkrb9tP6NvwGgsx MSDS]

'''Resin Disposal Disclaimer'''

All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…

Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download [https://www.chitubox.com/ chitubox] software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|200x400px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

<u>Important requirements</u>
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool. If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out

* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened Chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,

1. Open your file in the slicer,

2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensions using the scale feature

3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|400x300px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.

5. Slice it.

6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color. You have access to the [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view resin settings table].

[[File: Print settings resin.png|center|500x700px|Print settings resin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer

8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:29:28Z

Gmang049: /* Slicer settings */

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|300x500px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|400x300px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|400x300px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is '''toxic''', and a '''skin irritant''', especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear '''gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeves''' when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the '''ventilation is on''' for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

<u>Accidental Resin Spill</u>:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: [https://www.elegoo.com/blogs/3d-printing/elegoo-resin-sds?srsltid=AfmBOooyOwv0QQ1wtVA-YZtwB_RBzRWi1P7u6Mdpvrkrb9tP6NvwGgsx MSDS]

'''Resin Disposal Disclaimer'''

All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…

Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download [https://www.chitubox.com/ chitubox] software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|200x400px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

<u>Important requirements</u>
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool. If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out

* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened Chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,

1. Open your file in the slicer,

2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensions using the scale feature

3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|500x700px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.

5. Slice it.

6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color. You have access to the [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view resin settings table].

[[File: Print settings resin.png|center|500x700px|Print settings resin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer

8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

File:Support settings.png

2025-08-27T10:28:22Z

Gmang049:

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:27:58Z

Gmang049: /* Slicer settings */

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|300x500px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|400x300px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|400x300px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is '''toxic''', and a '''skin irritant''', especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear '''gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeves''' when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the '''ventilation is on''' for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

<u>Accidental Resin Spill</u>:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: [https://www.elegoo.com/blogs/3d-printing/elegoo-resin-sds?srsltid=AfmBOooyOwv0QQ1wtVA-YZtwB_RBzRWi1P7u6Mdpvrkrb9tP6NvwGgsx MSDS]

'''Resin Disposal Disclaimer'''

All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…

Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download [https://www.chitubox.com/ chitubox] software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|200x400px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

<u>Important requirements</u>
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool. If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out

* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,

1. Open your file in the slicer,

2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensions using the scale feature

3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|500x700px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.

5. Slice it.

6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color. You have access to the resin settings table.

[[File: Print settings resin.png|center|500x700px|Print settings resin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer

8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

File:Chitubox Slicer.png

2025-08-27T10:26:46Z

Gmang049:

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:26:16Z

Gmang049: /* Step-by-step */

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|300x500px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|400x300px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|400x300px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is '''toxic''', and a '''skin irritant''', especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear '''gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeves''' when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the '''ventilation is on''' for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

<u>Accidental Resin Spill</u>:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: [https://www.elegoo.com/blogs/3d-printing/elegoo-resin-sds?srsltid=AfmBOooyOwv0QQ1wtVA-YZtwB_RBzRWi1P7u6Mdpvrkrb9tP6NvwGgsx MSDS]

'''Resin Disposal Disclaimer'''

All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…

Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download [https://www.chitubox.com/ chitubox] software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|200x400px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

<u>Important requirements</u>
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool. If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out

* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,
1. Open your file in the slicer,
2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensons using the scale feature
3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|500x700px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.
5. Slice it.
6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color . You have access to the resin settings table.

[[File: Print settings resin.png|center|500x700px|Print settings resin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer
8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

File:Chitubox.png

2025-08-27T10:25:28Z

Gmang049:

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:25:02Z

Gmang049: /* Safety considerations */

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|300x500px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|400x300px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|400x300px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is '''toxic''', and a '''skin irritant''', especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear '''gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeves''' when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the '''ventilation is on''' for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

<u>Accidental Resin Spill</u>:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: [https://www.elegoo.com/blogs/3d-printing/elegoo-resin-sds?srsltid=AfmBOooyOwv0QQ1wtVA-YZtwB_RBzRWi1P7u6Mdpvrkrb9tP6NvwGgsx MSDS]

'''Resin Disposal Disclaimer'''

All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…

Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download [https://www.chitubox.com/ chitubox] software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

<u>Important requirements</u>
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool. If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out

* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,
1. Open your file in the slicer,
2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensons using the scale feature
3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|500x700px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.
5. Slice it.
6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color . You have access to the resin settings table.

[[File: Print settings resin.png|center|500x700px|Print settings resin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer
8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:22:02Z

Gmang049: /* The Curing station */

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|300x500px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|400x300px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|400x300px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is toxic, and a skin irritant contact, especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeve when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the ventilation is on for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

Accidental Resin Spill:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: MSDS

Resin Disposal Disclaimer
All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…
Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download chitubox software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

Important requirements
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool
If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out
* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,
1. Open your file in the slicer,
2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensons using the scale feature
3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|500x700px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.
5. Slice it.
6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color . You have access to the resin settings table.

[[File: Print settings resin.png|center|500x700px|Print settings resin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer
8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

File:Curing chamber.png

2025-08-27T10:21:30Z

Gmang049:

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:20:51Z

Gmang049: /* The Washing station */

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|300x500px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|400x300px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|500x700px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is toxic, and a skin irritant contact, especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeve when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the ventilation is on for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

Accidental Resin Spill:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: MSDS

Resin Disposal Disclaimer
All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…
Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download chitubox software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

Important requirements
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool
If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out
* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,
1. Open your file in the slicer,
2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensons using the scale feature
3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|500x700px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.
5. Slice it.
6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color . You have access to the resin settings table.

[[File: Print settings resin.png|center|500x700px|Print settings resin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer
8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:20:21Z

Gmang049: /* The Washing station */

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|300x500px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|300x400px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|500x700px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is toxic, and a skin irritant contact, especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeve when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the ventilation is on for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

Accidental Resin Spill:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: MSDS

Resin Disposal Disclaimer
All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…
Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download chitubox software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

Important requirements
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool
If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out
* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,
1. Open your file in the slicer,
2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensons using the scale feature
3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|500x700px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.
5. Slice it.
6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color . You have access to the resin settings table.

[[File: Print settings resin.png|center|500x700px|Print settings resin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer
8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:19:59Z

Gmang049: /* The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA */

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|300x500px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|500x700px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|500x700px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is toxic, and a skin irritant contact, especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeve when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the ventilation is on for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

Accidental Resin Spill:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: MSDS

Resin Disposal Disclaimer
All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…
Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download chitubox software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

Important requirements
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool
If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out
* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,
1. Open your file in the slicer,
2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensons using the scale feature
3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|500x700px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.
5. Slice it.
6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color . You have access to the resin settings table.

[[File: Print settings resin.png|center|500x700px|Print settings resin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer
8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

File:Cleaning Vat.png

2025-08-27T10:19:40Z

Gmang049:

File:EquipmentResin.png

2025-08-27T10:19:05Z

Gmang049:

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:17:37Z

Gmang049:

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|500x700px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|500x700px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|500x700px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is toxic, and a skin irritant contact, especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeve when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the ventilation is on for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

Accidental Resin Spill:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: MSDS

Resin Disposal Disclaimer
All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…
Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download chitubox software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

Important requirements
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool
If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out
* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,
1. Open your file in the slicer,
2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensons using the scale feature
3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|500x700px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.
5. Slice it.
6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color . You have access to the resin settings table.

[[File: Print settings resin.png|center|500x700px|Print settings resin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer
8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T10:16:47Z

Gmang049:

==Introduction==
This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here.

==Equipment==
The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber.

===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA===
The resin printer used at the Makerspace is the Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA.

[[File: EquipmentResin.png|center|500x700px|EquipmentResin|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 1. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA</div>

====Printer specifications====

* UV Projector with LCD screen mask
* 12K LCD Resolution (10” Screen)
* 218.8 x 122.8 x 220 mm Printing size
* XY resolution of 24 microns
* Fast layer cure time of 1-3 seconds

===The Washing station===
After the print, the 3D printed object is washed and soaked in a suitable solution such as isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin.

[[File: Cleaning Vat.png|center|500x700px|Cleaning Vat|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 2. Cleaning Vat</div>

===The Curing station===
After washing the 3D printed object, it is placed in the curing chamber to solidify the resin and make it safe to hold.

[[File: Curing chamber.png|center|500x700px|Curing chamber|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 3. Curing chamber</div>

==Safety considerations==

*The resin is toxic, and a skin irritant contact, especially when uncured. It causes contact dermatitis, and repeated exposure can worsen the effects of exposure.

*Always wear gloves, mask, goggles, and an apron/sleeve when working with the resin.

*Always ensure that the ventilation is on for the fume tent, and that you are not breathing in when opening the tent as some fumes trapped in the tent may quickly rush out.
*Resin is extremely toxic to marine life, and as such no resin should be placed or washed off into a sink. There are proper resin disposal steps that will be covered later.
*The solvents used for cleaning are also toxic and should not be ingested or inhaled.
*The resin is the main safety concern, although your hands should not be near the machine during operation as well.

===Exposure to resin===

Accidental Resin Spill:
*First let a makerspace staff know, they will know the proper steps to get you and the afflicted area cleaned up.
*If resin got on your skin run warm water on the affected area and use mild soap to scrub the area into the disposal bucket (do not let the contaminated water, go down the drain).
*Wipe the area down with baby wipes. If you get a reaction, let staff know and seek medical attention. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic dermatitis that requires topical steroids to treat.
*Wipe down any spill on surfaces with baby wipes, dispose of baby wipes in resin disposal bin and cure them before throwing them in the garbage.
*MSDS Available at: MSDS

Resin Disposal Disclaimer
All uncured resin should be treated with care and under no circumstances should be allowed to be drained into the sink, all materials that get uncured resin on them should be cleaned using baby wipes which are placed into the uncured resin disposal bin found within the fume tent…
Very important!

==Step-by-step==
===What you need to get started===

* A 3D model (Typically a .Stl or .Obj file)
* Download chitubox software, the slicer (Free!)
* Proper operational instructions
* Read carefully the Safety instructions
* A Makerspace employee, as a supervisor

[[File: Chitubox.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 4. Chitubox</div>

Important requirements
*Remember to hollow out your model if possible, using the hollow tool
If you use the hollow tool make sure to add a hole to let the resin leak out
* Remember to always add a raft to your model to make removal easier
* Always ensure that the cure settings are correct for the resin in use
* Ensure that the model has adequate support

===Slicer settings===
Once you opened chitubox, you should see the following features explained in the image below:
[[File: Chitubox Slicer.png|center|500x700px|Chitubox Slicer|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 5. Chitubox Slicer</div>

To 3D print with resin,
1. Open your file in the slicer,
2. Adjust it, for example, you can reduce or increase the model's dimensons using the scale feature
3. Add support, it ranges from light to heavy depending on how big your model is.

[[File: Support settings.png|center|500x700px|Support settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 6. Support settings</div>

4. Make sure that the emojis are green, indicating that you are good to go.
5. Slice it.
6.Adapt the print setting to your resin color . You have access to the resin settings table.

[[File: Print settings.png|center|500x700px|Print settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 7. Print settings</div>
The following table indicates the print settings for Elegoo Saturn 4 UlTRA

[[File: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings.png|center|500x700px|Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 8. Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA resin settings</div>

7. Save your file on the USB key assigned specifically to the resin printer
8.Ready to print!

===Post-printing process===

[[File: Post-printing process.png|center|500x700px|Post-printing process|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 9. Post-printing process</div>

====Starting post-processing====

*After the print is done, let excess resin drip into the vat for 5 mins
*When your part is ready to be removed from the build plate, let a staff know that your print is done. The staff will remove your print for you.
*Adhere to the previous figure, about where your model can be placed at each stage of cleaning and curing!
[[File: Finished print on build-plate.png|center|500x300px|Finished print on build-plate|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 10. Finished print on build-plate</div>

====Cleaning vat====
*Take models after prepping from the red tray and place them into the cleaning vat.
* The cleaning vat container may be removed entirely for better access.
* The cleaning vat has a sealable Tupperware lid that must be always closed unless you are placing or removing a part otherwise the solvent will evaporate.
* After the model is placed in you can seal the vat and set the cleaner to 2-5 mins using the dial.

====Drying====
[[File: Finished print after washing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after washing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 11. Finished print after washing</div>
*After removing the part from the cleaning vat, leave it to dry on a red tray for approx. 30 mins
* The red tray is for drip-dried uncured prints and can be used to remove the uncured supports from your model, you can also remove them after curing if desired.

====Curing chamber====
* After drying your model, you can now place your piece in the curing chamber
* You must turn on the station lights to ensure the curing chamber will turn on
* After the model is placed in you can put the lid on and set it to 2-5 mins using the dial.
* You will need to put your piece inside for multiple curing stages to ensure every side of the piece is cured. Rotate the piece every time.
* You can also use the handheld UV flashlight to get to areas of the print that the chamber might have missed

====Cured Parts-Green Tray====
* The green tray is where all cured parts can be placed for support removal (if not already done) and air drying
*Ensure that no uncured resin gets onto the green tray, so that it does not need to be cleaned after each use!

[[File: Finished print after curing.png|center|300x500px|Finished print after curing|]]
<div class="center" style="width: auto; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">Figure 12. Finished print after curing</div>
*Ensure that your models are completely cured and that there is no resin-colored liquid still wet on the surface of the model.
* Clear, or white sticky residue from the cleaning solvent may be coating your model, which can be cleaned off.
* If your model is completely cured, any remaining residue can be cleaned off using a toothbrush and clean water (allow water used to cure in sunlight as a precaution)

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T09:57:05Z

Gmang049:

Tutorial-3D printing with resin

2025-08-27T09:44:29Z

Gmang049: Created page with "==Introduction== This tutorial demonstrates how to effectively 3D print with resin at the Makerspace. Whether it's been a while since your last training session or you missed a few key details, rest assured, we've got you covered here. ==Equipment== The equipment used when 3D printing with resin consists of the printer itself, a container used to wash the printed object and a curing chamber. ===The 3D printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 ULTRA=== The resin printer used at the Make..."