CEED Wiki - User contributions [en]

Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/CNC Training

2025-07-17T15:58:45Z

Eparkhouse: /* After the Training */

== What is CNC? ==
CNC (Computer Numerical Control) is a manufacturing method where machines like mills, lathes, routers, 3D printers, laser cutters, and more are controlled using computer codes—primarily G-code, a language that tells machines what movements to make and actions to perform. These codes are interpreted by a controller, which converts them into signals that operate various machine components. While different machines may use different variations of G-code, the underlying principles remain the same.

CNC machining offers high precision, speed, and the ability to produce complex parts with tight tolerances, making it ideal for large-scale production and detailed work. However, due to its time-consuming setup and need for specialized programming knowledge, it is less suitable for simple or low-volume projects.

For more information on CNC machining, including G-code, CAM, and speeds and feeds, visit the following YouTube channels:

[https://www.youtube.com/@haasautomation Haas Automation]

[https://www.youtube.com/@nyccnc NYC CNC]

== About CNC Training ==
The CNC Training Course offered by CEED is a two-part course that covers the basics of G-Code and writing machine programs, a brief overview of feeds and speeds, basic functions in the Fusion 360 CAM workspace, and the operating procedures for the CNC routers in the Wood Room. After completing both parts of the training, students should be able to create a program for a simple part with one setup using common materials like MDF, plastic, or aluminum.
[[File:Router.png|thumb]]
The first portion of the training covers the basic functions of a CNC machine, the history and meaning of G-Code, how to structure a program, and the basics of feeds and speeds. The second portion goes into more detail on feeds and speeds, and then moves on to a Fusion 360 demo and finally machining a part on the Larken Camtool routers.

The material of the training is very dense, so it is strongly recommended to review the following resources before attending in order to develop a basis of knowledge and help the lecture portion go faster.

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMx_UYrvuos&ab_channel=HaasAutomation%2CInc. What is G-Code? – Haas Automation Tip of the Day]

[https://nyccnc.com/getting-started-feeds-speeds/ Getting Started with Feeds & Speeds]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbcMm-rSXZY&ab_channel=HaasAutomation%2CInc. Make a Part From Start to Finish; Mark's Greatest Setup Tips - Haas Automation Tip of the Day]

== After the Training ==
Once the training is complete, certified students may use any of the routers, as well as the Tormach PCNC 1100 mill at the discretion of the Brunsfield manager or qualified staff.

Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/CNC Training

2025-07-17T15:38:08Z

Eparkhouse: /* About CNC Training */

File:Router.png

2025-07-17T15:36:12Z

Eparkhouse:

router

Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/CNC Training

2025-07-17T15:34:37Z

Eparkhouse: /* About CNC Training */

== What is CNC? ==
CNC (Computer Numerical Control) is a manufacturing method where machines like mills, lathes, routers, 3D printers, laser cutters, and more are controlled using computer codes—primarily G-code, a language that tells machines what movements to make and actions to perform. These codes are interpreted by a controller, which converts them into signals that operate various machine components. While different machines may use different variations of G-code, the underlying principles remain the same.

CNC machining offers high precision, speed, and the ability to produce complex parts with tight tolerances, making it ideal for large-scale production and detailed work. However, due to its time-consuming setup and need for specialized programming knowledge, it is less suitable for simple or low-volume projects.

For more information on CNC machining, including G-code, CAM, and speeds and feeds, visit the following YouTube channels:

[https://www.youtube.com/@haasautomation Haas Automation]

[https://www.youtube.com/@nyccnc NYC CNC]

== About CNC Training ==
The CNC Training Course offered by CEED is a two-part course that covers the basics of G-Code and writing machine programs, a brief overview of feeds and speeds, basic functions in the Fusion 360 CAM workspace, and the operating procedures for the CNC routers in the Wood Room. After completing both parts of the training, students should be able to create a program for a simple part with one setup using common materials like MDF, plastic, or aluminum.

The first portion of the training covers the basic functions of a CNC machine, the history and meaning of G-Code, how to structure a program, and the basics of feeds and speeds. The second portion goes into more detail on feeds and speeds, and then moves on to a Fusion 360 demo and finally machining a part on the Larken Camtool routers.

The material of the training is very dense, so it is strongly recommended to review the following resources before attending in order to develop a basis of knowledge and help the lecture portion go faster.

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMx_UYrvuos&ab_channel=HaasAutomation%2CInc. What is G-Code? – Haas Automation Tip of the Day]

[https://nyccnc.com/getting-started-feeds-speeds/ Getting Started with Feeds & Speeds]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbcMm-rSXZY&ab_channel=HaasAutomation%2CInc. Make a Part From Start to Finish; Mark's Greatest Setup Tips - Haas Automation Tip of the Day]

Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/CNC Training

2025-07-17T14:49:33Z

Eparkhouse: /* About CNC Training */

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC

2025-07-16T20:59:44Z

Eparkhouse: /* Our CNC Machines */

== What is CNC? ==
CNC stands for Computer Numerical Control. It is a manufacturing method that involves controlling a machine tool by feeding it computer codes for certain operations. There are many different machines that operate using CNC technology, most commonly mills, lathes, and routers. However, many people don't realize that other machines like 3D printers, laser, plasma, and water jet cutters, wire EDM (electric discharge machining), grinders, pick & place machines and more operate on the same principles, often even using some of the same codes.

All these machines and more use G-Code. G-code is the language we use to talk to the machine, it uses codes like words to tell the machine where to go and what to do. Once the code is uploaded to the machine, the controller turns code into electrical signals which control different parts of the machine like motors, coolant pumps, heaters, and so on. Think of the controller like a translator that translates the code we know to signals the machine understands. Keep in mind that mills will have different codes from routers, lathes and so on (they speak different dialects of the same coding language), and there are even different codes for machines that have 3, 4 or 5 axes or that are made by different brands (like regional accents).

CNC manufacturing can be incredibly useful, but only in the right situation. It is more precise and can produce more complex parts than manual machining, and the time spent actually machining is faster. This is ideal for production runs, complex parts, tight tolerances, or surface finish requirements. On the other hand, it takes much longer to setup (CAD, CAM program, tool setup, machine setup). It also requires in-depth knowledge of programming and CAM software. As such, it is not useful for simple parts, low-scale production, or prototyping.

For more information on CNC machining, including G-code, CAM, and speeds and feeds, visit the following YouTube channels:

[https://www.youtube.com/@haasautomation Haas Automation]

[https://www.youtube.com/@nyccnc NYC CNC]

== Our CNC Machines ==
[[File:Mini mill.png|thumb]]
[[The Brunsfield Center]] and [[Manufacturing Training Center|MTC]] are home to several different CNC machines with a variety of capabilities.

* Haas Mini Mill 2
* Haas TL1 lathe
* Tormach PCNC 1100 mill
* two Larken Automation Camtool 24/36 routers
* Larken Automation System 100 router
* FoxAlien Desktop router

The two Haas machines are our newest and most powerful machines. They are reserved for JMTS teams making custom parts and are operated by the manager of JMTS, Jason Demers. All other CNC machines are available for use by students upon completion of both parts of the [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/CNC Training|CNC training]] and with approval from the Brunsfield manager, Alex Vendette.

== G-Code ==
G-Code is the language used to communicate with CNC machines. Invented in the 1950's at MIT, it used to be punched onto rolls of tapes that were fed into the machine on a wheel. In learning G-Code, you will notice that some codes have become less useful in modern times as technology advances. For example, the code M30 calls the machine to rewind the code as if it were still on a physical tape, even though computers have been in use for three decades.

Nowadays, the power of computers and CAM (computer-aided manufacturing) software has made CNC machining significantly more accessible. Once you have a model of your part, you can simply load it into the CAM software, define the desired tool paths, and adjust a few parameters, and the software will output dozens or even hundreds of pages of code in an instant.
[[File:G code.png|thumb|An example of G-Code syntax]]
As a coding language, G-Code is relatively simple. A single code will always follow the format of a letter followed by several numbers; this is called a word. A string of words together on the same line is called a block, you can think of this like a sentence. Every code can be sorted into one of three categories: Preparatory codes, Miscellaneous codes, and Address codes. Preparatory codes, or G-codes for short, are the codes that control the machine's movement and geometry. Miscellaneous codes, or M-codes, control auxillary functions of the machine, such as coolant or tool changers. All other codes fall under Address codes.

There is a generally accepted format to organize any G-code program to make sure it runs smoothly, and more important safely.

# Safe start-up codes: this section will includes codes to do things like switching between imperial and metric units, initializing the part origin, selecting a motion mode, and more. The idea is to reset any odd settings that might still be active from the last program and make sure everything is operation as it should.
# Tool loading: this is usually a very small section. It takes care of loading the tool into the spindle of the machine, calling up all the offsets for that tool, and turning the spindle on. It will also turn on cool pumps or other auxillary functions of the machine.
# Rapid to part: this is when the machine will position the tool above the part to start machining. Up until this point, you should run the program in single-block mode, meaning one line of code at a time, to check that everything is working properly.
# Machining operation: from here on, turn off single-block mode and run the program normally. This section is where the fun happens.
# Shut-down sequence: once the machining is done, the tool will move away and the spindle, coolant, and auxillaries will turn off. If you have a multi-tool program, then the next section will restart at step 2 and continue in a loop for however many tools are needed.
# Program end: once all machining passes are done, there should be another line of codes similar to the safe start-up codes to make sure the machine doesn't do anything weird when it comes back online. Finally, you'll see the code to terminate the program and you can grab the part.

== Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM) ==
[[File:Fusion.png|thumb|225x225px]]
For all CAM work, CEED recommends Fusion 360 by Autodesk. Fusion 360 is free for students, easy to learn with hours of tutorials across the internet, and can even work in conjunction with Solidworks by uploading Solidworks file types to your Autodesk account.

The following video provides a brief but relatively detailed tutorial on making a part and CAM program in Fusion 360. If you're only interested in the CAM portion of the tutorial because you prefer Solidworks for modelling, you can skip to 5:30.

[https://youtu.be/xRVVUteI1PY?si=-48zC0pI0I_rPwn0&t=329 Fusion 360 tutorial]

You can also find more detailed tutorials and additional resources on the Autodesk website, [https://www.autodesk.com/learn/catalog/product%7Crole%7Ceducators/Fusion%7Ca8f296ee-ec03-4476-ad40-5b1eca5df91b%7Cuniversities here].

== Feeds & Speeds ==
The most important part of programming a part to be machined is feeds and speeds, meaning how fast is the tool spinning, moving across the part, and removing material. Although it may seem daunting at first and can take years of experience to truly master, there are a handful of simple equations that can provide a good starting point.

The goal of these calculations is to find the values for the S code (spindle speed) and the F code (feed rate) in the NC program. However, these values will be different depending on the material of the workpiece, the material of the tool, the size of the tool, the power output of the machine and more. Therefore, we must derive the S and F values from these material and geometry properties.
[[File:RPM_formula.png|thumb|205x205px]]
The first and simplest equation helps us calculate the S value for spindle speed. In this equation, D is the diameter of the tool in inches and SFM is surface feet per minute which is a property of the material. SFM refers to the optimal linear speed of the cutting edge across the surface of the material. Consider cutting a piece of wood with a hacksaw, the SFM value would correspond the speed you push and pull the saw blade through the wood.
[[File:Feed_formula.png|thumb|479x479px]]
To calculate the feed rate, we must first have the spindle speed. The equation that follows also uses the number of flutes or cutting edges on the tool, and a value called Chip Load, also known as IPT, CPT, or FPT (Inch/Chip/Feed per tooth). Chip load refers to the thickness of the chip, or more specifically how much material each flute removes each revolution.

Find more information on calculating feeds and speeds in the Sandvik Coromant blog, [https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-gb/knowledge/machining-formulas-definitions/milling-formulas-definitions?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid-search&utm_campaign=2025_ca_product-focused-sold-round-tools here].

=== Other Condiserations ===
[[File:Chip_thinning.png|thumb]]

==== Chip Thinning ====
Chip thinning<ref name=":0">NYC CNC. (n.d.). ''Getting started: Feeds & speeds''. Retrieved June 16, 2025, from <nowiki>https://nyccnc.com/getting-started-feeds-speeds/</nowiki></ref> is a phenomenon caused by the circular geometry of a milling tool. As radial engagement decreases, the actual thickness of the chips being cut will end up smaller than what the programmed S & F values should produce. At a radial depth of cut (RDOC) of 50% of the tool diameter, the actual and programmed chip load will be exactly equal, but as the RDOC decreases, the cutting edge of the tool will start to enter the material at an angle. Illustration from Harvey Performance<ref>'''Harvey Performance Company. (n.d.).''' ''How to combat chip thinning.'' ''In The Loupe.'' Retrieved June 16, 2025, from <nowiki>https://www.harveyperformance.com/in-the-loupe/combat-chip-thinning/</nowiki></ref>.

For most operations, chip thinning won't be an issue. Where it becomes a problem is in situations where a big tool has a small RDOC, for example a half inch tool taking a .001” finishing pass at a programmed FPT of .005” '''''results in an actual FPT of only 0.0004”'''''<ref name=":0" />. It's important to realize that no cutting edge is ever perfectly sharp. The flutes of most endmills have a radius on the edge of about 0.0001-0.0003", so the operation mentioned above would create chips barely wider than the sharp edge. This will cause the tool to rub more and drastically decrease its useable life.
[[File:Chip_thinning_calc.png|thumb]]
To avoid rubbing, there is a formula to convert the programmed chip load into the actual chip load, based on RDOC and tool diameter. NYC CNC understands that this equation is not very nice to deal with, so they've made a wonderful [https://nyccnc.com/speeds-feeds-excel-worksheet/ excel sheet] that can do almost any S&F calculation you may need. Once you've calculated the optimal chip load for your material, you can adjust the spindle speed, feed rate, and RDOC to achieve it. Keep it mind, however, that changing one of these to the ideal window may bring another outside of that window.
[[File:Mrr.png|thumb|239x239px]]

==== Machine Limitations ====
An important and often overlooked part of dialing in your speeds and feeds is the capability of the machine itself. Some machines have weaker spindles or slower axes than others, and settings that work on one machine may not on another. To find the power requirement of a certain operation, first we need to determine the Material Removal Rate (MRR) which typically has units of cu in/min. Once the MRR is known, divide it by the material's K factor, which represents the MRR that can be acheived by 1HP and is a function of the material hardness.

Another factor of the machine that's less understood is rigiditiy. This refers to how stiff all the joints and connections in the machine are, as well as how much backlash the motors have and the integrity of the work holding method. Any part of the machine or setup that's less rigid than it should be is a potential source of vibration, which can lead to tool chatter, higher wear on the tool and internal parts, poor surface finishes and low tolerances. Therefore, it's important to make your setup as rigid as possible and adjust your feeds and speeds as needed. Although it may seem counter-intuitive, generally it actually helps to go faster to mitigate vibration<ref>Sandvik Coromant. (n.d.). ''Milling vibration''. <nowiki>https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-us/knowledge/milling/vibration</nowiki></ref>.
[[File:Screenshot 2025-07-16 165907.png|thumb]]

==== Tool Geometry, Materials, and Coatings ====
While most of the above calculations have been based on solely the work material, it is also important to consider the tool itself. Choosing the right cutting tool material is essential for machining efficiency, requiring a balance of hardness, toughness, and resistance to wear and heat. Materials like High-Speed Steel (HSS), carbide, ceramics, and silicon nitride each offer advantages based on machining conditions. Tool geometry and coatings such as CVD and PVD also play key roles in performance by affecting chip flow, wear resistance, and toughness. While premium tooling may slightly increase costs, it enables higher feeds and speeds, significantly boosting material removal rates and reducing cycle times—often far outweighing the added expense.<ref>'''Hess, E.''' (2024, May). ''Easy guide to cutting tool material selection''. CNC Cookbook. <nowiki>https://www.cnccookbook.com/cutting-tool-materials/</nowiki></ref>

<references />

File:Screenshot 2025-07-16 165907.png

2025-07-16T20:59:37Z

Eparkhouse:

endmill

File:Fusion.png

2025-07-16T20:55:07Z

Eparkhouse:

fusion

File:G code.png

2025-07-16T20:52:13Z

Eparkhouse:

g code

File:Mini mill.png

2025-07-16T20:51:19Z

Eparkhouse:

mini mill

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding

2025-07-16T20:48:39Z

Eparkhouse: /* Machine setup */

== About ==
[[File:Aluminum vs Stainless Steel Welding.webp|thumb|MIG welding]]
Welding is a fabrication process where two or more pieces of metal are joined together using heat. This process creates a solid connection by melting the materials and allowing them to cool and fuse. Welding is a common method for creating durable joints in various applications, including manufacturing and repair.

There are three main categories of welding processes; Arc welding, Gas welding, and Resistance welding. MIG, TIG, Stick, and Plasma cutting fall under arc welding processes. Oxyfuel welding is the most common gas welding process, and spot welding is the most common resistance process.

Arc welding works by conducting a current from the electrode to the workpiece, and then lifting the electrode to force the current to jump through the air. Since air is a strong insulator, the resistance causes extreme heat which then melts the workpiece. Think of this like a miniature lightning bolt.

Gas welding uses a flammable gas as fuel mixed with oxygen to make a hot flame which melts the workpiece. Once molten, filler material can be added to fuze pieces to each other. The Brunsfield Center does not have any gas welding equipment.

Resistance welding uses pointed electrodes to pinch the individual pieces together, and the small area of contact creates a point of low voltage and high current which heats, melts, and fuzes the parts together.

For more resources on welding, visit the following YouTube channels:

[https://www.youtube.com/@weldingtipsandtricks Welding Tips and Tricks]

[https://www.youtube.com/@Welddotcom Weld.com]

'''Always remember to stop welding 30min before closure of shop''' to make sure you have time to clean up after yourself and stow the machine properly. Make sure the machine is unplugged and the gas valve is closed.
[[File:Maxresdefault.jpg|thumb|A TIG torch (left) and a MIG torch (right)]]

=== Different types of arc welding ===
MIG (Metal Inert Gas) aka GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding) is like a hot glue gun for metal, it's as easy as point and shoot. It has fixed settings and only one button, and is best for mild steel of small to medium thickness. The filler and electrode are the same wire, making the machine less complicated. Shielding gas, usually ferroline, comes from a bottle out the nozzle of the torch. MIG is most commonly found in automated factories, and as hobby or home use.

Stick aka SMAW (Shielded Metal Arc Welding) has no trigger or pedal, meaning the electrode is always live. Be aware of this between passes when laying the rod down, it can spark on its own. The filler and electrode are the same rod similar to MIG, except the rod is held in a conductive clamp called a stinger and not fed from the machine, so your hands need to move as the rod melts away. Stick welding rods have flux instead of shielding gas; the arc vaporizes the flux, creating its own shielding gas, while leaving a layer of slag on top of the weld to protect it as it cools. Always make sure to remove the slag before the next pass. Stick is most commonly found on pipelines and structural welds, it has very high penetrating power compared to MIG or TIG which is good for stuff that gets dirty, or has paint or coatings.

TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) aka GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) is the most complex process, but most versatile. It is best for aluminum, very small parts, and exotic metals. The torch is controlled by a remote, usually a foot pedal, which can vary amperage (heat) throughout the weld. Filler wire is separate from the torch, fed by hand, and you can even do a weld without adding any filler if you’re cool enough. Shielding gas, usually pure argon, comes from a bottle to the torch, same as for MIG. TIG welding is most commonly found in fabrication shops, aerospace applications, and the automotive industry.

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/MIG|MIG Welding]] ==

=== About ===
[[File:Millermatic 252.png|thumb|A Miller Millermatic 252 MIG welding machine, of which there are two in the Brunsfield Center]]
MIG (Metal Inert Gas) welding, also known as GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding), is a type of arc welding process in which a continuous solid wire electrode is fed through a welding gun and into the weld pool. The process uses a shielding gas, typically a mix of argon and <chem>CO2</chem>to protect the weld from contaminants in the atmosphere. MIG welding is widely used for its ease of use, speed, and adaptability to various metals.

=== How it works ===
In MIG welding, an electric arc forms between the wire electrode and the metal workpiece, heating them and causing them to melt and fuse. A motorized system feeds the wire at a controlled speed, while gas flows through the same gun to shield the weld.

* '''Wire electrode''': consumable, ER70S-6 for mild steel.
* '''Shielding gas''': Ferroline C25, 75% argon / 25% CO₂ for steel.
* '''Voltage and wire speed''': adjusted based on material thickness.

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|'''Metal Thickness'''
|'''Voltage'''
|'''Wire Speed (In/min)'''
|-
!'''1/2<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''29.5'''
!'''515'''
|-
!'''3/8<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''26.0'''
!'''475'''
|-
!'''1/4<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''21.0'''
!'''375'''
|-
!'''3/16<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''18.4'''
!'''265'''
|-
!'''1/8<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''17.4'''
!'''230'''
|-
!'''14ga.'''
!'''16.5'''
!'''190'''
|-
!'''18ga.'''
!'''15.8'''
!'''120'''
|}

=== Equipment Setup ===
Before turning on the welding machine, make sure that all safety measures are being followed. In particular, make sure all the proper PPE is being worn, nothing flammable is in the welding area, and close the curtains to protect others outised the welding area.

A simple procedure can be followed to properly start up the MIG welders.

# Passing gas
## Molten metal will oxidize more rapidly due to the heat and ruin the integrity of the weld. Inert “shielding” gas prevents this
## The cylinders need to be opened when welding
## Never overtighten or over open the valve on the cylinder
## Small knob on side of regulator controls flow
## Flow meter shows increase but not decrease in flow unless gas is released
## Purge gas line and adjust to 25cfh for MIG (marked line on MIG bottles)
## 25% co2 (ferroline c25) for MIG and 100% Argon for TIG
## Regulator will show how much gas is left in the cylinder
## If you run out of gas, ask a supervisor to change the bottle for you. '''DO NOT TRY TO CHANGE YOURSELF'''
# All about the settings
## MIG machine only has two settings; wire feed speed and voltage
## Chart above is on the machine or the door of the cabinet
# The insides
## The MIG welder has a cover on the side that holds the filler wire
## Students should ask a supervisor before changing the wire
## Tension adjustment knob and lever system (don’t play with it)
# The torch
## As you press the trigger on the torch the wire and gas feed out
## Clean spatter (about every 30 min) to prevent welding or notching nozzle
## Taking off the nozzle we can see the contact tip
# Staying grounded
## The ground needs to be attached in order for the electrical current to pass from the torch to your workpiece then back to the machine (closed circuit)
## MIG welding requires a very good ground therefore it is always better to clamp the ground clamp directly onto the workpiece if possible
## When clamping on the table, clamp as close to your workpiece as possible
# Ready to weld
## Positioning your body so that you are comfortable will make a significant difference in weld quality
## Position yourself so you can see what you are doing
## Warn others before welding to avoid flashburn (bright arc in eyes)
## Snip off excess wire, clear off the contact tip and nozzle
## No more than ½" stickout
## Do a “dry run” (trace your weld path with the torch) to make sure you can reach comfortably

=== Technique ===
[[File:Weld-bead-appearance-mig-settings.jpg|thumb|345x345px]]

* When MIG welding it is important to hold the torch a certain way in order to achieve the best results
** When welding a t joint or lap joint, it is recommended to hold the torch at a 45deg angle to the joint and use approximately a 5 to 15deg lead angle (ie pointing backwards to direction of travel)
** For flat or butt joints, hold the torch at 90deg to the surface and with 5-15deg lead angle
** Some kind of elbow rest can come in handy here—use some scrap and make your own!

* Slow and smooth movements are best
** Use two hands or rest your elbow/forearm on the table/rest to keep steady
** Stay consistent!

* Use shadows and reflections as landmarks to help keep a straight line
** Turn your helmet shade down a bit if you’re struggling to see

* Do a pattern that keeps the arc at the front of the puddle to get better heat penetration
** Zig zags are always good
** Welding right to left, do C’s like this: CCCCCCCCC so the point is ahead of the weld
** Left to right do it the other way: >>>>>>>>>>>>
** Loop di loops or figure 8’s

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG|TIG Welding]] ==

=== About ===
Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welding, also known as Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW), is a precise welding process that uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to produce the weld. Known for its high-quality, clean welds, TIG welding is commonly used on thin materials such as stainless steel and aluminum in industries requiring strong, visually appealing joints.

=== The TIG torch ===
[[File:TIG torch.png|thumb|A disassembled TIG torch]]

==== Assembly ====

* Collet body screws into the front of the torch body
** Gas lens does the same thing, creates laminar flow for getting into tight spots

* Collet goes into the back of the collet body
** Notice slits on collet, acts like springs
** Inside of collet body is tapered, pinches the collet closed

* Ceramic gas cup screws on top of collet body

* Sharpened electrode goes in through the back of torch
** Grey paint: 2% ceriated is a good all-purpose electrode, ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals
** “rule of thumb” for stickout, half the width of your thumb from the cup to the tip of the elctrode

* Tail cap screws onto back of torch body, seals the collet and electrode

==== Spare parts ====
All internal parts are made of copper for its conductivity. Copper is very soft so be careful to never over-tighten anything when assembling the torche. All these parts get worn out over time, they will tarnish due to the heat, slowly losing its conductivity. Brand new parts are very shiny, bright red and conduct electricity very well; you will notice a more stable arc when you replace an old part with a new one.

There are also different sized parts for different applications. Thicker material requires more heat to weld, meaning a thicker electrode to conduct more current, thus needing larger collet and collet body, and more gas to shield, meaning a larger cup. On the other hand, thinner material requires less amperage, and when an electrode is too big for the amount of amperage the arc becomes unstable and difficult to start. Therefore, a smaller electrode, collet, and collet body should be installed, along with a smaller gas cup to concentrate the gas on the smaller weld pool.

==== Electrode ====
TIG welding uses a tungsten as an electrode. Tungsten has an extremely high melting point (3422C, 6191F), so when you weld the electrode gets hot but it doesn't melt. This means the electrode is non-consummable, it won’t last forever but it doesn’t melt and become part of the weld (unlike MIG where the electrode melts and becomes filler metal. This is a consumable electrode process)

The color of the electrode indicates the type of tungsten alloy. Some of the more common alloys include:

* Grey is 2% ceriated, good choice for all types of welding; providing good arc start and restart characteristics with no spitting. It is ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals.

* 2% lanthanated tungsten (color-coded blue) is a true all-purpose electrode, with excellent arc starting characteristics and the ability to transmit high current without spitting. It provides a stable arc at both high and low current, and works very well on all metals.

* Rare earth tungsten (chartreuse) has the very best low-current arc starting characteristics, and it can be used on all metals. This type is often preferred for automated welding.

* Zirconiated tungsten (white) is good for welding aluminum and magnesium alloys. It has high current-carrying capacity, and it provides better arc starts and stability than pure tungsten.
[[File:Electrode prep.png|thumb]]
[[File:W angle.png|thumb]]

==== Sharpening your tungsten ====

* Make sure to use the left of the two small wheels, labeled for tungsten

* Wear gloves, it’ll get toasty

* Don't use pliers, not enough grip

* Hold the electrode in line with the wheel, pointing up against the rotation

* Want grind lines running towards the point to direct the current

* If it grabs the wheel, it’ll just push you away

* Holding it downward will pull you into the wheel and revoke your finger privileges

* Spin it slowly and constantly in your fingers

* Looking for a uniform cone, don’t want flat spots

* Aim for 30 degrees

* Break off the point

* Don't want any burrs to throw off our arc

* The flat end helps a little with penetration

==== Machine Setup ====

===== Starting the machine =====

* Plug in, flip power switch

* Open gas valve, set flow to 15-20CFH

* Need to have gas flowing to read flowmeter, press the pedal down

* Connect the ground clamp

* Set the pedal and torch in a comfortable position

===== Settings =====

====== Amperage ======
As a general rule of thumb, start by setting the amperage equivalent to the thickness of your part in thousandths of an inch, ie. 1A = 0.001". So for a 1/8" practice coupon, start out at 125A.

However, with more experience you will learn to play around with this setting to suit your particular style. For example, some people might set their amperage to 140A for 1/8" Aluminum to get an extra kick when starting their weld, even though they'll only use 50% of the pedal (70-80A) for the rest of the weld after it's started.
[[File:AC welding.png|thumb]]

====== Polarity ======

* AC for Aluminum and Magnesium
** Electrode positive phase, electrons flowing from workpiece to electrode, blows through the back of the oxide layer
** Electrode negative phase, electrons flowing from the electrode to the workpiece, actually melts the pure aluminum inside to make a weld

* DC for all other metals

====== Process ======
This setting controls how the arc starts.

* HF impulse allows to press the pedal and start the arc without needing to touch the workpiece to start the flow of electricity, using high-voltage high-frequency electric pulses

* Lift start requires you to touch the tungsten to the workpiece, press the pedal down, then lift off to start the arc

* Stick (scratch start) is when the electrode stays live at all times so the arc starts as soon as you make contact

====== Output ======
This setting determines what activates the arc.

* Remote allows you to use a foot pedal or hand remote

* 2T hold acts like a toggle function

====== Pulser ======
Use this setting to periodically decrease the heat for smaller parts.

* PPS stands for pulses per second

* Peak time is how long each pulse is at max amperage as a percentage of the PPS

* Background amperage is the minimum amperage in between pulses

====== Sequence ======
Use this setting in conjunction with the 2T hold setting for when a remote (foot pedal) isn’t available or practical.

* Initial amperage is the amount of amps used to initiate the arc, usually based on electrode size

* Initial slope is how long it will take to go from initial A to your working amperage

* Final slope is how long it will take to decrease from working A to final A

* Final A is the amperage right before the arc cuts out

====== Adjust ======

* Preflow is how long the gas will flow before the weld starts, to clear out any impurities for the start

* Postflow is gas flow after the weld, to protect the weld and the electrode as they cool

* DIG is used for stick welding, prevents the electrode from sticking to the workpiece

====== AC Waveshape ======

* Balance changes how much cleaning actions happens to remove the Al oxide. Lower balance has more cleaning action

* Frequency changes the width of the AC arc. Higher frequency will have a tighter arc with more penetration

===== Starting Recipes =====
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Material
!0.125" AISI 1018 plate
!0.065" AISI 4130 tube
!0.125" 6061-T6 plate
|-
|Amperage
|130A
|67A
|150A
|-
|Polarity
|DC
|DC
|AC
|-
|Process
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|-
|Output
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|-
|Pulser
|off
|0.8 PPS, 40% peak t, 25A bkgnd A
|off
|-
|Sequence
|off
|off
|off
|-
|Adjust
|0.2s pre-flow, 4s post-flow
|0.5s pre-flow, 5s post-flow
|0.8s pre-flow, 6s post-flow
|-
|AC Waveshape
|off
|off
|70% balance, 80Hz
|}
Start with these settings and play around with them as you practice. Only change one setting at a time until you understand what each one does, that way you can notice the effect of each one.
==== Troubleshooting ====
* Amperage: The weld bead should be about twice as wide as the thickness of the material. If the bead is wider than that, turn the amperage down. Turn the amperage up if the bead is smaller.
* Process: If the arc won't start when you press the foot pedal, check your process setting. If you're in lift arc or stick, the machine expects you to touch the electrode to the workpiece in order to start the flow of current. Use HF Impulse instead for most TIG operations.
* Pulser: If you feel like you don't have enough time to reposition between pulses, decrease the PPS value. If you don't have time to add filler and connect the bead during the pulse, increase the peak t value. If the arc is flickering or dying in between pulses, turn up the background amperage.
* Adjust: if the weld has any porosity or oxidation, check that the gas flow rate is set correctly on the regulator. If the regulator is set correctly and the issue still arises, increase the post-flow value
* AC Waveshape: If the bead is too narrow, decrease the frequency. If it's too narrow AND has poor penetration, increase the amperage instead. If there's too much etching, turn up the balance. If the oxide layer won't break, turn the balance down.

==== Technique ====

===== Before starting =====

* Make sure your tungsten is sharp and your filler rod is a decent length

* Stick your electrode out the same amount as the width of the cup

* Most joints will use about twice the length of filler as the length of the joint, make sure you have enough

* Find a comfortable position. Being comfy is the fastest way to improve your welds

* Trace your path to make sure you can reach and see everything you need to
[[File:Torch angle.png|thumb|Travel angle is as seen from the side of the weld, work angle is as seen from the end of the weld]]

===== Starting the weld =====

* Position your torch so the tip of the electrode is ~1/8” from the surface of the workpiece. Never exceed ¼" (long arcing, poor gas coverage)

* Hold the torch at the correct angle

* 5-15deg lead angle in the plane parallel to the weld, meaning handle tilted back, electrode point in the direction of travel

* 90deg to the face of the weld, meaning vertical for flat welds or butt joints, 45deg from vertical for lap or T joints

* Apply the pedal slowly, develop the puddle

* Look for how the heat input affects the width of the puddle

* For joints, make a tack weld first. Start the arc in the middle of the gap to create a puddle on either side, increase the heat until they connect

* Use filler sparingly at first, make sure the base material fuses fully.

===== Make a bead =====

* Look for how filler input affects the height of the puddle

* Make sure to tie in to your tack or last bead, ie start with some overlap

* For joints, use a back-and-forth motion to connect the two pieces

* Use enough filler to avoid undercut (where the surface dips down)

===== Finishing the weld =====

* Finish the last ~¼" without filler to avoid a big glob at the end

* Make sure to go all the way over your tack or next bead

* Avoid pinholes, lack of fusion

* Slowly lift off pedal, hold torch over the weld

* Maintains gas coverage while the weld and electrode cool

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Stick Welding|Stick Welding]] ==

=== About ===
Stick welding, or Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), is a versatile and widely used welding process that uses a consumable electrode coated in flux to lay the weld. It is known for its simplicity and effectiveness in outdoor or windy conditions, making it ideal for construction, repair, and heavy steel structures.
[[File:Stick weld.png|thumb]]

=== No torch ===
Instead of a torch, stick welding uses a solid rod clamped in a stinger, which is a conductive clamp with grooves to hold the rod. The rod serves a triple purpose; it acts as the electrode by carrying current from the stinger to the workpiece, serves as filler material to fill the weld, and is covered in flux which vaporizes to become the shielding gas.

There are different kinds of rods for different purposes. The most common are listed below.

* 7018 is the most common all-purpose rod

* 6010/6011 are both very high strength, used for heavy duty applications

Many industrial processes will use a combination of 6010 for the root, and 7018 for the fill and cap.

=== Machine setup ===

* Plug in, turn on, connect ground clamp

* No gas needed because of flux

* No foot pedal either

==== Settings ====

* Depending on the electrode being used, you may need to flip the polarity
** Some rods run only DCEN, only DCEP, or only AC, some run a combination of the three
** Direct current electrode negative (DCEN) means the electrode is connected to the negative terminal of the machine and the ground connect to the positive
** And vice versa for DCEP

* Make sure the correct process and output is selected
** Process: stick
** Output: on
** Adjust: DIG
** All other settings should be default or off

* DO NOT put a rod in the stinger until you are ready to weld
** As soon as the ground clamp is connected, the stinger is LIVE
** If you leave a rod in the stinger, it will spark every time it touches the table

* Set amperage depending on rod rather than material thickness

* For 1/8” 7018 rod on 1/8” material, start at 110A and increase as needed

[[File:Stick_Welding_Settings.png|thumb]]

* As you can see in the chart, the rod size depends on the material size, and then the amperage depends on the rod size

* Bigger rods have more penetration

=== Technique ===

==== Before starting ====

* Find a comfortable position
** Use scrap, clamps, extra gloves etc to make an elbow/wrist rest
** Beware that your rod will shrink as you weld, account for that in your positioning
** Thumb to pinky

[[File:Thumb_to_pink.png|thumb]]

* Make sure your piece is clean, free of slag
** Have a chipping hammer and wire brush on hand
** Angle grinders or wire wheels can be handy too for really gross parts

* Make sure you have the right size rod
** Don't use a 5/32” rod on 0.065” thick material, it’ll go right through

==== Starting the weld ====

* Stick welding is usually scratch start (like striking a match)

* Scratch the tip of the electrode against the piece to start the flow of current, lift off to create the arc
** Scratching helps to avoid sticking your rod, and to remove bits of slag or flux that may be stuck to the end of the rod
** Scratch on a clean area, ahead of where you want to weld so you cover the arc strike

* Once the arc is started, don’t pull away too far!!! Arc length is crucial
** Too far away (long-arcing) will cause porosity, undercut, unstable arc
** Short-arcing will smoother the weld, rod will stick, poke holes
** But too short is better than too long

* Rod angle should generally be close to the middle of the two faces being joined
** Meaning 45deg for t joint, 90deg for butt joint etc ('''work angle''')
** Also using a slight (10-20deg) lead angle ie “dragging” the tip of the rod, to avoid pushing slag into the weld puddle ('''travel angle''')

* Make a tack weld at either end/on either side before doing the full bead, same as with MIG/TIG
** Once the tack is made, you have to “tie” it in to the bead
** Back-track to cover your tack before proceeding to the full bead
** This will avoid pinholes, undercut, bad toe lines etc

==== Finishing the weld ====

* At the end of the bead, “snap” the rod off
** Not snap as in break, more like a whip motion
** This will kill the arc quickly, rather than getting porosity from long-arcing as you pull away slowly (not good)
** This will also toss off any slag or molten metal from the end of the rod, makes the next restart easier

* Chip away any slag, wire brush any rust or spatter before starting the next bead
** Always easier to weld a clean part

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Spot Welding|Spot Welding]] ==
[[File:Spot welder.png|thumb]]

=== About ===
A '''spot welder''' is a type of resistance welding machine used to join two or more metal surfaces at small points by applying pressure and passing a strong electrical current through the metal. The heat generated by the electrical resistance at the interface of the workpieces causes them to melt and fuse. Spot welding is commonly used in the automotive industry, metal fabrication, and manufacturing of appliances.

=== Safety Considerations ===

* Risk of burns from hot metal and electrodes.

* Electrical hazards due to high current.

* Eye protection needed for sparks.

* Proper ventilation required to avoid inhalation of fumes.
[[File:Spot weld.png|thumb]]

=== Principle of Operation ===
Spot welding operates on the principle of '''Resistive Heating'''. Two copper alloy electrodes are used to clamp the workpieces together. A high-current, low-voltage electric pulse is then passed through the metals, typically for a few milliseconds. Because the current is concentrated at the point of contact and the resistance is highest there, the material heats and melts at that spot, forming a weld nugget.

=== Components ===
A typical spot welder consists of:

* '''Control System''': Regulates weld time, pressure, and current.

* '''Transformer''': Steps down voltage and increases current.

* '''Electrodes''': Copper alloy tips that conduct current and apply pressure.

* '''Tongs''': Provide leverage and spacing for the workpieces.

* '''Cooling System''': Often water-cooled to prevent overheating of electrodes.

=== Applications ===
Spot welders are widely used in:

* '''Automotive Manufacturing''': For joining body panels and frame components.

* '''Battery Packs''': To weld tabs on cylindrical and pouch-type battery cells.

* '''Sheet Metal Fabrication''': In appliances, cabinets, and enclosures.

* '''Aerospace and Electronics''': For precise, localized joining of components.

=== Advantages ===

* Fast and efficient for mass production.

* No need for filler material.

* Minimal heat-affected zone (HAZ).

* Consistent and repeatable weld quality with proper control.

=== Limitations ===

* Limited to thin sheet metals (typically less than 3 mm or 1/8” thick).

* Not suitable for non-conductive materials or thick components.

* Weld strength may vary with contamination or improper setup.

* Electrode wear requires regular maintenance.

* The MTC spot welder cannot weld aluminum since it requires higher current than the machine is rated for
[[File:Mig glove.png|thumb]]

=== Training and Operation ===
Spot welders are often rated as a '''Class 2 or 3 operation''' in machine shop environments like Brunsfield Center, meaning users require a brief training and oversight to safely perform welds. Training focuses on:

* PPE use (e.g., safety glasses, gloves)

* Setting weld time and current

* Electrode alignment

* Handling hot workpieces safely

To operate the spot welder, particular procedures must be followed to ensure safe and effective operation. Before use, make sure to have MIG welding gloves or pliers immediately available to handle the workpiece after welding and avoid burns.

* Turn the machine on, set the timer to the correct length of time
** For mild/galvanized steel, set the timer between 0.75 and 1.00 seconds
** For stainless steel, set the timer between 0.25 and 0.50 seconds
** Setting the timer too short will result in a cold joint and lack of fusion. Setting the timer too long will deform the material and cause the weld cross section to be smaller. Both result in a weak weld
** While some spot welders can weld aluminum, the MTC spot welder cannot. It does not have AC capability which aluminum requires to weld.

* Position the pieces to be welded between the tongs
** Make sure the pieces are aligned correctly relative to each other
** Make sure no part of the piece is touching any part of the tong other than the contact tip. This will split the current, causing the weld to not be as hot, which can cause lack of fusion
** For pieces more than 4” across, use a free hand to support the piece and prevent tipping
** Use a MIG glove to support the piece to avoid burns

* Hold the trigger for the full duration of the timer
** Failing to do so can result in a cold weld and lack of fusion
** The timer shuts the welder off automatically after it runs out; don’t worry about over-doing it

* Once the timer runs out, release the clamp and remove the workpiece
** DO NOT TOUCH with bare hands
** The piece will be hot, use pliers or gloves to handle until it cools
** Running the piece under the sink will cool it quickly, but the rapid change in temperature may cause cracks in the weld. For any joint that will be under load, allow to cool slowly

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Plasma Cutting|Plasma Cutting]] ==

=== About ===
[[File:Crossfire-85HD-Plasma-Cutter-Thick-Cut_941x630.jpg|thumb]]
The plasma gun uses as arc (like welding) coupled with a stream of compressed air to melt away metal using the torch. It can be used to cut thicker metals quickly, but leaves a rough surface finish.

Operating the plasma gun is very similar to a [[MIG]] welder. It is done in the welding bay in Brunsfield and require MIG training before operating. This is considered an advance manufacturing technology, '''please check in with a staff before commencing.'''

=== Operating Procedure ===

==== Preparation ====
* Ensure the welding curtains are fully closed around the cutting zone.
* Prepare your piece by marking your cuts and setting up a jig if repeated cuts are to be made.

==== Plasma Table ====
* Clear all items from the surface of the plasma table.
* Ensure both wheel casters are in the locked position.
* With the help of another person, lift open the lid of the table until it hangs down at the side. Lift from both front corners slowly and set the lid down gently.
* Pinching Hazard! The table lid is very heavy. Use caution and ask for hep if needed.

[[File:PremierPlasmaCNCSafetyKit.webp|thumb|330x330px]]

==== PPE Check ====
* Wear a welding helmet or plasma glasses, gloves, welding jacket, long (non-systhetic) pants that are tucked over your boots, and safety boots.
* Use hearing protection if required.
* Use an N-95 mask or respirator.

==== Setup and Power-On ====
* Connect the power cable to the back of the machine.
* Check the air pressure and power settings on the plasma cutter.
* Connect the air hose to the plasma cutter.
* Turn on the ventilation system.
* Clamp the ground lead securely to the workpiece.

[[File:Using-a-hand-held-plasma-cutter-plasma-cutting-sequence.jpg|thumb|475x475px]]

==== Cutting Operation ====
* Hold the torch perpendicular to the work surface at all times.
* Cut only above the open table, do not stand under the torch while cutting.
* Ensure nothing is in the way of your cut; the torch should slide smoothly along the surface of the piece.
* Begin the cut off of the work piece, then slowly move to cut through the metal.
* Maintain a steady speed, always allowing material to be blown out of the bottom of the cut.

==== Post-Cut Procedure ====
* Turn off power and disconnect the air supply.
* Let materials cool fully before handling them.
* Coil cables neatly and store equipment safely.
* Return all PPE to the cabinets

==== Clean-Up ====
* Clear metal debris.
* Ensure ventilation runs until fumes are dispersed.
* Using a second person, carefully close the lid of the plasma table. A piece of metal can be used as a shim while closing to ensure fingers aren’t pinched.
* Report any issues or damage.

File:Mig glove.png

2025-07-16T20:47:53Z

Eparkhouse:

mig glove

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding

2025-07-16T20:47:10Z

Eparkhouse: /* No torch */

== About ==
[[File:Aluminum vs Stainless Steel Welding.webp|thumb|MIG welding]]
Welding is a fabrication process where two or more pieces of metal are joined together using heat. This process creates a solid connection by melting the materials and allowing them to cool and fuse. Welding is a common method for creating durable joints in various applications, including manufacturing and repair.

There are three main categories of welding processes; Arc welding, Gas welding, and Resistance welding. MIG, TIG, Stick, and Plasma cutting fall under arc welding processes. Oxyfuel welding is the most common gas welding process, and spot welding is the most common resistance process.

Arc welding works by conducting a current from the electrode to the workpiece, and then lifting the electrode to force the current to jump through the air. Since air is a strong insulator, the resistance causes extreme heat which then melts the workpiece. Think of this like a miniature lightning bolt.

Gas welding uses a flammable gas as fuel mixed with oxygen to make a hot flame which melts the workpiece. Once molten, filler material can be added to fuze pieces to each other. The Brunsfield Center does not have any gas welding equipment.

Resistance welding uses pointed electrodes to pinch the individual pieces together, and the small area of contact creates a point of low voltage and high current which heats, melts, and fuzes the parts together.

For more resources on welding, visit the following YouTube channels:

[https://www.youtube.com/@weldingtipsandtricks Welding Tips and Tricks]

[https://www.youtube.com/@Welddotcom Weld.com]

'''Always remember to stop welding 30min before closure of shop''' to make sure you have time to clean up after yourself and stow the machine properly. Make sure the machine is unplugged and the gas valve is closed.
[[File:Maxresdefault.jpg|thumb|A TIG torch (left) and a MIG torch (right)]]

=== Different types of arc welding ===
MIG (Metal Inert Gas) aka GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding) is like a hot glue gun for metal, it's as easy as point and shoot. It has fixed settings and only one button, and is best for mild steel of small to medium thickness. The filler and electrode are the same wire, making the machine less complicated. Shielding gas, usually ferroline, comes from a bottle out the nozzle of the torch. MIG is most commonly found in automated factories, and as hobby or home use.

Stick aka SMAW (Shielded Metal Arc Welding) has no trigger or pedal, meaning the electrode is always live. Be aware of this between passes when laying the rod down, it can spark on its own. The filler and electrode are the same rod similar to MIG, except the rod is held in a conductive clamp called a stinger and not fed from the machine, so your hands need to move as the rod melts away. Stick welding rods have flux instead of shielding gas; the arc vaporizes the flux, creating its own shielding gas, while leaving a layer of slag on top of the weld to protect it as it cools. Always make sure to remove the slag before the next pass. Stick is most commonly found on pipelines and structural welds, it has very high penetrating power compared to MIG or TIG which is good for stuff that gets dirty, or has paint or coatings.

TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) aka GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) is the most complex process, but most versatile. It is best for aluminum, very small parts, and exotic metals. The torch is controlled by a remote, usually a foot pedal, which can vary amperage (heat) throughout the weld. Filler wire is separate from the torch, fed by hand, and you can even do a weld without adding any filler if you’re cool enough. Shielding gas, usually pure argon, comes from a bottle to the torch, same as for MIG. TIG welding is most commonly found in fabrication shops, aerospace applications, and the automotive industry.

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/MIG|MIG Welding]] ==

=== About ===
[[File:Millermatic 252.png|thumb|A Miller Millermatic 252 MIG welding machine, of which there are two in the Brunsfield Center]]
MIG (Metal Inert Gas) welding, also known as GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding), is a type of arc welding process in which a continuous solid wire electrode is fed through a welding gun and into the weld pool. The process uses a shielding gas, typically a mix of argon and <chem>CO2</chem>to protect the weld from contaminants in the atmosphere. MIG welding is widely used for its ease of use, speed, and adaptability to various metals.

=== How it works ===
In MIG welding, an electric arc forms between the wire electrode and the metal workpiece, heating them and causing them to melt and fuse. A motorized system feeds the wire at a controlled speed, while gas flows through the same gun to shield the weld.

* '''Wire electrode''': consumable, ER70S-6 for mild steel.
* '''Shielding gas''': Ferroline C25, 75% argon / 25% CO₂ for steel.
* '''Voltage and wire speed''': adjusted based on material thickness.

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|'''Metal Thickness'''
|'''Voltage'''
|'''Wire Speed (In/min)'''
|-
!'''1/2<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''29.5'''
!'''515'''
|-
!'''3/8<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''26.0'''
!'''475'''
|-
!'''1/4<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''21.0'''
!'''375'''
|-
!'''3/16<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''18.4'''
!'''265'''
|-
!'''1/8<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''17.4'''
!'''230'''
|-
!'''14ga.'''
!'''16.5'''
!'''190'''
|-
!'''18ga.'''
!'''15.8'''
!'''120'''
|}

=== Equipment Setup ===
Before turning on the welding machine, make sure that all safety measures are being followed. In particular, make sure all the proper PPE is being worn, nothing flammable is in the welding area, and close the curtains to protect others outised the welding area.

A simple procedure can be followed to properly start up the MIG welders.

# Passing gas
## Molten metal will oxidize more rapidly due to the heat and ruin the integrity of the weld. Inert “shielding” gas prevents this
## The cylinders need to be opened when welding
## Never overtighten or over open the valve on the cylinder
## Small knob on side of regulator controls flow
## Flow meter shows increase but not decrease in flow unless gas is released
## Purge gas line and adjust to 25cfh for MIG (marked line on MIG bottles)
## 25% co2 (ferroline c25) for MIG and 100% Argon for TIG
## Regulator will show how much gas is left in the cylinder
## If you run out of gas, ask a supervisor to change the bottle for you. '''DO NOT TRY TO CHANGE YOURSELF'''
# All about the settings
## MIG machine only has two settings; wire feed speed and voltage
## Chart above is on the machine or the door of the cabinet
# The insides
## The MIG welder has a cover on the side that holds the filler wire
## Students should ask a supervisor before changing the wire
## Tension adjustment knob and lever system (don’t play with it)
# The torch
## As you press the trigger on the torch the wire and gas feed out
## Clean spatter (about every 30 min) to prevent welding or notching nozzle
## Taking off the nozzle we can see the contact tip
# Staying grounded
## The ground needs to be attached in order for the electrical current to pass from the torch to your workpiece then back to the machine (closed circuit)
## MIG welding requires a very good ground therefore it is always better to clamp the ground clamp directly onto the workpiece if possible
## When clamping on the table, clamp as close to your workpiece as possible
# Ready to weld
## Positioning your body so that you are comfortable will make a significant difference in weld quality
## Position yourself so you can see what you are doing
## Warn others before welding to avoid flashburn (bright arc in eyes)
## Snip off excess wire, clear off the contact tip and nozzle
## No more than ½" stickout
## Do a “dry run” (trace your weld path with the torch) to make sure you can reach comfortably

=== Technique ===
[[File:Weld-bead-appearance-mig-settings.jpg|thumb|345x345px]]

* When MIG welding it is important to hold the torch a certain way in order to achieve the best results
** When welding a t joint or lap joint, it is recommended to hold the torch at a 45deg angle to the joint and use approximately a 5 to 15deg lead angle (ie pointing backwards to direction of travel)
** For flat or butt joints, hold the torch at 90deg to the surface and with 5-15deg lead angle
** Some kind of elbow rest can come in handy here—use some scrap and make your own!

* Slow and smooth movements are best
** Use two hands or rest your elbow/forearm on the table/rest to keep steady
** Stay consistent!

* Use shadows and reflections as landmarks to help keep a straight line
** Turn your helmet shade down a bit if you’re struggling to see

* Do a pattern that keeps the arc at the front of the puddle to get better heat penetration
** Zig zags are always good
** Welding right to left, do C’s like this: CCCCCCCCC so the point is ahead of the weld
** Left to right do it the other way: >>>>>>>>>>>>
** Loop di loops or figure 8’s

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG|TIG Welding]] ==

=== About ===
Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welding, also known as Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW), is a precise welding process that uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to produce the weld. Known for its high-quality, clean welds, TIG welding is commonly used on thin materials such as stainless steel and aluminum in industries requiring strong, visually appealing joints.

=== The TIG torch ===
[[File:TIG torch.png|thumb|A disassembled TIG torch]]

==== Assembly ====

* Collet body screws into the front of the torch body
** Gas lens does the same thing, creates laminar flow for getting into tight spots

* Collet goes into the back of the collet body
** Notice slits on collet, acts like springs
** Inside of collet body is tapered, pinches the collet closed

* Ceramic gas cup screws on top of collet body

* Sharpened electrode goes in through the back of torch
** Grey paint: 2% ceriated is a good all-purpose electrode, ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals
** “rule of thumb” for stickout, half the width of your thumb from the cup to the tip of the elctrode

* Tail cap screws onto back of torch body, seals the collet and electrode

==== Spare parts ====
All internal parts are made of copper for its conductivity. Copper is very soft so be careful to never over-tighten anything when assembling the torche. All these parts get worn out over time, they will tarnish due to the heat, slowly losing its conductivity. Brand new parts are very shiny, bright red and conduct electricity very well; you will notice a more stable arc when you replace an old part with a new one.

There are also different sized parts for different applications. Thicker material requires more heat to weld, meaning a thicker electrode to conduct more current, thus needing larger collet and collet body, and more gas to shield, meaning a larger cup. On the other hand, thinner material requires less amperage, and when an electrode is too big for the amount of amperage the arc becomes unstable and difficult to start. Therefore, a smaller electrode, collet, and collet body should be installed, along with a smaller gas cup to concentrate the gas on the smaller weld pool.

==== Electrode ====
TIG welding uses a tungsten as an electrode. Tungsten has an extremely high melting point (3422C, 6191F), so when you weld the electrode gets hot but it doesn't melt. This means the electrode is non-consummable, it won’t last forever but it doesn’t melt and become part of the weld (unlike MIG where the electrode melts and becomes filler metal. This is a consumable electrode process)

The color of the electrode indicates the type of tungsten alloy. Some of the more common alloys include:

* Grey is 2% ceriated, good choice for all types of welding; providing good arc start and restart characteristics with no spitting. It is ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals.

* 2% lanthanated tungsten (color-coded blue) is a true all-purpose electrode, with excellent arc starting characteristics and the ability to transmit high current without spitting. It provides a stable arc at both high and low current, and works very well on all metals.

* Rare earth tungsten (chartreuse) has the very best low-current arc starting characteristics, and it can be used on all metals. This type is often preferred for automated welding.

* Zirconiated tungsten (white) is good for welding aluminum and magnesium alloys. It has high current-carrying capacity, and it provides better arc starts and stability than pure tungsten.
[[File:Electrode prep.png|thumb]]
[[File:W angle.png|thumb]]

==== Sharpening your tungsten ====

* Make sure to use the left of the two small wheels, labeled for tungsten

* Wear gloves, it’ll get toasty

* Don't use pliers, not enough grip

* Hold the electrode in line with the wheel, pointing up against the rotation

* Want grind lines running towards the point to direct the current

* If it grabs the wheel, it’ll just push you away

* Holding it downward will pull you into the wheel and revoke your finger privileges

* Spin it slowly and constantly in your fingers

* Looking for a uniform cone, don’t want flat spots

* Aim for 30 degrees

* Break off the point

* Don't want any burrs to throw off our arc

* The flat end helps a little with penetration

==== Machine Setup ====

===== Starting the machine =====

* Plug in, flip power switch

* Open gas valve, set flow to 15-20CFH

* Need to have gas flowing to read flowmeter, press the pedal down

* Connect the ground clamp

* Set the pedal and torch in a comfortable position

===== Settings =====

====== Amperage ======
As a general rule of thumb, start by setting the amperage equivalent to the thickness of your part in thousandths of an inch, ie. 1A = 0.001". So for a 1/8" practice coupon, start out at 125A.

However, with more experience you will learn to play around with this setting to suit your particular style. For example, some people might set their amperage to 140A for 1/8" Aluminum to get an extra kick when starting their weld, even though they'll only use 50% of the pedal (70-80A) for the rest of the weld after it's started.
[[File:AC welding.png|thumb]]

====== Polarity ======

* AC for Aluminum and Magnesium
** Electrode positive phase, electrons flowing from workpiece to electrode, blows through the back of the oxide layer
** Electrode negative phase, electrons flowing from the electrode to the workpiece, actually melts the pure aluminum inside to make a weld

* DC for all other metals

====== Process ======
This setting controls how the arc starts.

* HF impulse allows to press the pedal and start the arc without needing to touch the workpiece to start the flow of electricity, using high-voltage high-frequency electric pulses

* Lift start requires you to touch the tungsten to the workpiece, press the pedal down, then lift off to start the arc

* Stick (scratch start) is when the electrode stays live at all times so the arc starts as soon as you make contact

====== Output ======
This setting determines what activates the arc.

* Remote allows you to use a foot pedal or hand remote

* 2T hold acts like a toggle function

====== Pulser ======
Use this setting to periodically decrease the heat for smaller parts.

* PPS stands for pulses per second

* Peak time is how long each pulse is at max amperage as a percentage of the PPS

* Background amperage is the minimum amperage in between pulses

====== Sequence ======
Use this setting in conjunction with the 2T hold setting for when a remote (foot pedal) isn’t available or practical.

* Initial amperage is the amount of amps used to initiate the arc, usually based on electrode size

* Initial slope is how long it will take to go from initial A to your working amperage

* Final slope is how long it will take to decrease from working A to final A

* Final A is the amperage right before the arc cuts out

====== Adjust ======

* Preflow is how long the gas will flow before the weld starts, to clear out any impurities for the start

* Postflow is gas flow after the weld, to protect the weld and the electrode as they cool

* DIG is used for stick welding, prevents the electrode from sticking to the workpiece

====== AC Waveshape ======

* Balance changes how much cleaning actions happens to remove the Al oxide. Lower balance has more cleaning action

* Frequency changes the width of the AC arc. Higher frequency will have a tighter arc with more penetration

===== Starting Recipes =====
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Material
!0.125" AISI 1018 plate
!0.065" AISI 4130 tube
!0.125" 6061-T6 plate
|-
|Amperage
|130A
|67A
|150A
|-
|Polarity
|DC
|DC
|AC
|-
|Process
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|-
|Output
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|-
|Pulser
|off
|0.8 PPS, 40% peak t, 25A bkgnd A
|off
|-
|Sequence
|off
|off
|off
|-
|Adjust
|0.2s pre-flow, 4s post-flow
|0.5s pre-flow, 5s post-flow
|0.8s pre-flow, 6s post-flow
|-
|AC Waveshape
|off
|off
|70% balance, 80Hz
|}
Start with these settings and play around with them as you practice. Only change one setting at a time until you understand what each one does, that way you can notice the effect of each one.
==== Troubleshooting ====
* Amperage: The weld bead should be about twice as wide as the thickness of the material. If the bead is wider than that, turn the amperage down. Turn the amperage up if the bead is smaller.
* Process: If the arc won't start when you press the foot pedal, check your process setting. If you're in lift arc or stick, the machine expects you to touch the electrode to the workpiece in order to start the flow of current. Use HF Impulse instead for most TIG operations.
* Pulser: If you feel like you don't have enough time to reposition between pulses, decrease the PPS value. If you don't have time to add filler and connect the bead during the pulse, increase the peak t value. If the arc is flickering or dying in between pulses, turn up the background amperage.
* Adjust: if the weld has any porosity or oxidation, check that the gas flow rate is set correctly on the regulator. If the regulator is set correctly and the issue still arises, increase the post-flow value
* AC Waveshape: If the bead is too narrow, decrease the frequency. If it's too narrow AND has poor penetration, increase the amperage instead. If there's too much etching, turn up the balance. If the oxide layer won't break, turn the balance down.

==== Technique ====

===== Before starting =====

* Make sure your tungsten is sharp and your filler rod is a decent length

* Stick your electrode out the same amount as the width of the cup

* Most joints will use about twice the length of filler as the length of the joint, make sure you have enough

* Find a comfortable position. Being comfy is the fastest way to improve your welds

* Trace your path to make sure you can reach and see everything you need to
[[File:Torch angle.png|thumb|Travel angle is as seen from the side of the weld, work angle is as seen from the end of the weld]]

===== Starting the weld =====

* Position your torch so the tip of the electrode is ~1/8” from the surface of the workpiece. Never exceed ¼" (long arcing, poor gas coverage)

* Hold the torch at the correct angle

* 5-15deg lead angle in the plane parallel to the weld, meaning handle tilted back, electrode point in the direction of travel

* 90deg to the face of the weld, meaning vertical for flat welds or butt joints, 45deg from vertical for lap or T joints

* Apply the pedal slowly, develop the puddle

* Look for how the heat input affects the width of the puddle

* For joints, make a tack weld first. Start the arc in the middle of the gap to create a puddle on either side, increase the heat until they connect

* Use filler sparingly at first, make sure the base material fuses fully.

===== Make a bead =====

* Look for how filler input affects the height of the puddle

* Make sure to tie in to your tack or last bead, ie start with some overlap

* For joints, use a back-and-forth motion to connect the two pieces

* Use enough filler to avoid undercut (where the surface dips down)

===== Finishing the weld =====

* Finish the last ~¼" without filler to avoid a big glob at the end

* Make sure to go all the way over your tack or next bead

* Avoid pinholes, lack of fusion

* Slowly lift off pedal, hold torch over the weld

* Maintains gas coverage while the weld and electrode cool

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Stick Welding|Stick Welding]] ==

=== About ===
Stick welding, or Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), is a versatile and widely used welding process that uses a consumable electrode coated in flux to lay the weld. It is known for its simplicity and effectiveness in outdoor or windy conditions, making it ideal for construction, repair, and heavy steel structures.
[[File:Stick weld.png|thumb]]

=== No torch ===
Instead of a torch, stick welding uses a solid rod clamped in a stinger, which is a conductive clamp with grooves to hold the rod. The rod serves a triple purpose; it acts as the electrode by carrying current from the stinger to the workpiece, serves as filler material to fill the weld, and is covered in flux which vaporizes to become the shielding gas.

There are different kinds of rods for different purposes. The most common are listed below.

* 7018 is the most common all-purpose rod

* 6010/6011 are both very high strength, used for heavy duty applications

Many industrial processes will use a combination of 6010 for the root, and 7018 for the fill and cap.

=== Machine setup ===

* Plug in, turn on, connect ground clamp

* No gas needed because of flux

* No foot pedal either

==== Settings ====

* Depending on the electrode being used, you may need to flip the polarity
** Some rods run only DCEN, only DCEP, or only AC, some run a combination of the three
** Direct current electrode negative (DCEN) means the electrode is connected to the negative terminal of the machine and the ground connect to the positive
** And vice versa for DCEP

* Make sure the correct process and output is selected
** Process: stick
** Output: on
** Adjust: DIG
** All other settings should be default or off

* DO NOT put a rod in the stinger until you are ready to weld
** As soon as the ground clamp is connected, the stinger is LIVE
** If you leave a rod in the stinger, it will spark every time it touches the table

* Set amperage depending on rod rather than material thickness

* For 1/8” 7018 rod on 1/8” material, start at 110A and increase as needed

[[File:Stick_Welding_Settings.png|thumb]]

* As you can see in the chart, the rod size depends on the material size, and then the amperage depends on the rod size

* Bigger rods have more penetration

=== Technique ===

==== Before starting ====

* Find a comfortable position
** Use scrap, clamps, extra gloves etc to make an elbow/wrist rest
** Beware that your rod will shrink as you weld, account for that in your positioning
** Thumb to pinky

[[File:Thumb_to_pink.png|thumb]]

* Make sure your piece is clean, free of slag
** Have a chipping hammer and wire brush on hand
** Angle grinders or wire wheels can be handy too for really gross parts

* Make sure you have the right size rod
** Don't use a 5/32” rod on 0.065” thick material, it’ll go right through

==== Starting the weld ====

* Stick welding is usually scratch start (like striking a match)

* Scratch the tip of the electrode against the piece to start the flow of current, lift off to create the arc
** Scratching helps to avoid sticking your rod, and to remove bits of slag or flux that may be stuck to the end of the rod
** Scratch on a clean area, ahead of where you want to weld so you cover the arc strike

* Once the arc is started, don’t pull away too far!!! Arc length is crucial
** Too far away (long-arcing) will cause porosity, undercut, unstable arc
** Short-arcing will smoother the weld, rod will stick, poke holes
** But too short is better than too long

* Rod angle should generally be close to the middle of the two faces being joined
** Meaning 45deg for t joint, 90deg for butt joint etc ('''work angle''')
** Also using a slight (10-20deg) lead angle ie “dragging” the tip of the rod, to avoid pushing slag into the weld puddle ('''travel angle''')

* Make a tack weld at either end/on either side before doing the full bead, same as with MIG/TIG
** Once the tack is made, you have to “tie” it in to the bead
** Back-track to cover your tack before proceeding to the full bead
** This will avoid pinholes, undercut, bad toe lines etc

==== Finishing the weld ====

* At the end of the bead, “snap” the rod off
** Not snap as in break, more like a whip motion
** This will kill the arc quickly, rather than getting porosity from long-arcing as you pull away slowly (not good)
** This will also toss off any slag or molten metal from the end of the rod, makes the next restart easier

* Chip away any slag, wire brush any rust or spatter before starting the next bead
** Always easier to weld a clean part

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Spot Welding|Spot Welding]] ==
[[File:Spot welder.png|thumb]]

=== About ===
A '''spot welder''' is a type of resistance welding machine used to join two or more metal surfaces at small points by applying pressure and passing a strong electrical current through the metal. The heat generated by the electrical resistance at the interface of the workpieces causes them to melt and fuse. Spot welding is commonly used in the automotive industry, metal fabrication, and manufacturing of appliances.

=== Safety Considerations ===

* Risk of burns from hot metal and electrodes.

* Electrical hazards due to high current.

* Eye protection needed for sparks.

* Proper ventilation required to avoid inhalation of fumes.
[[File:Spot weld.png|thumb]]

=== Principle of Operation ===
Spot welding operates on the principle of '''Resistive Heating'''. Two copper alloy electrodes are used to clamp the workpieces together. A high-current, low-voltage electric pulse is then passed through the metals, typically for a few milliseconds. Because the current is concentrated at the point of contact and the resistance is highest there, the material heats and melts at that spot, forming a weld nugget.

=== Components ===
A typical spot welder consists of:

* '''Control System''': Regulates weld time, pressure, and current.

* '''Transformer''': Steps down voltage and increases current.

* '''Electrodes''': Copper alloy tips that conduct current and apply pressure.

* '''Tongs''': Provide leverage and spacing for the workpieces.

* '''Cooling System''': Often water-cooled to prevent overheating of electrodes.

=== Applications ===
Spot welders are widely used in:

* '''Automotive Manufacturing''': For joining body panels and frame components.

* '''Battery Packs''': To weld tabs on cylindrical and pouch-type battery cells.

* '''Sheet Metal Fabrication''': In appliances, cabinets, and enclosures.

* '''Aerospace and Electronics''': For precise, localized joining of components.

=== Advantages ===

* Fast and efficient for mass production.

* No need for filler material.

* Minimal heat-affected zone (HAZ).

* Consistent and repeatable weld quality with proper control.

=== Limitations ===

* Limited to thin sheet metals (typically less than 3 mm or 1/8” thick).

* Not suitable for non-conductive materials or thick components.

* Weld strength may vary with contamination or improper setup.

* Electrode wear requires regular maintenance.

* The MTC spot welder cannot weld aluminum since it requires higher current than the machine is rated for

=== Training and Operation ===
Spot welders are often rated as a '''Class 2 or 3 operation''' in machine shop environments like Brunsfield Center, meaning users require a brief training and oversight to safely perform welds. Training focuses on:

* PPE use (e.g., safety glasses, gloves)

* Setting weld time and current

* Electrode alignment

* Handling hot workpieces safely

To operate the spot welder, particular procedures must be followed to ensure safe and effective operation. Before use, make sure to have MIG welding gloves or pliers immediately available to handle the workpiece after welding and avoid burns.

* Turn the machine on, set the timer to the correct length of time
** For mild/galvanized steel, set the timer between 0.75 and 1.00 seconds
** For stainless steel, set the timer between 0.25 and 0.50 seconds
** Setting the timer too short will result in a cold joint and lack of fusion. Setting the timer too long will deform the material and cause the weld cross section to be smaller. Both result in a weak weld
** While some spot welders can weld aluminum, the MTC spot welder cannot. It does not have AC capability which aluminum requires to weld.

* Position the pieces to be welded between the tongs
** Make sure the pieces are aligned correctly relative to each other
** Make sure no part of the piece is touching any part of the tong other than the contact tip. This will split the current, causing the weld to not be as hot, which can cause lack of fusion
** For pieces more than 4” across, use a free hand to support the piece and prevent tipping
** Use a MIG glove to support the piece to avoid burns

* Hold the trigger for the full duration of the timer
** Failing to do so can result in a cold weld and lack of fusion
** The timer shuts the welder off automatically after it runs out; don’t worry about over-doing it

* Once the timer runs out, release the clamp and remove the workpiece
** DO NOT TOUCH with bare hands
** The piece will be hot, use pliers or gloves to handle until it cools
** Running the piece under the sink will cool it quickly, but the rapid change in temperature may cause cracks in the weld. For any joint that will be under load, allow to cool slowly

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Plasma Cutting|Plasma Cutting]] ==

=== About ===
[[File:Crossfire-85HD-Plasma-Cutter-Thick-Cut_941x630.jpg|thumb]]
The plasma gun uses as arc (like welding) coupled with a stream of compressed air to melt away metal using the torch. It can be used to cut thicker metals quickly, but leaves a rough surface finish.

Operating the plasma gun is very similar to a [[MIG]] welder. It is done in the welding bay in Brunsfield and require MIG training before operating. This is considered an advance manufacturing technology, '''please check in with a staff before commencing.'''

=== Operating Procedure ===

==== Preparation ====
* Ensure the welding curtains are fully closed around the cutting zone.
* Prepare your piece by marking your cuts and setting up a jig if repeated cuts are to be made.

==== Plasma Table ====
* Clear all items from the surface of the plasma table.
* Ensure both wheel casters are in the locked position.
* With the help of another person, lift open the lid of the table until it hangs down at the side. Lift from both front corners slowly and set the lid down gently.
* Pinching Hazard! The table lid is very heavy. Use caution and ask for hep if needed.

[[File:PremierPlasmaCNCSafetyKit.webp|thumb|330x330px]]

==== PPE Check ====
* Wear a welding helmet or plasma glasses, gloves, welding jacket, long (non-systhetic) pants that are tucked over your boots, and safety boots.
* Use hearing protection if required.
* Use an N-95 mask or respirator.

==== Setup and Power-On ====
* Connect the power cable to the back of the machine.
* Check the air pressure and power settings on the plasma cutter.
* Connect the air hose to the plasma cutter.
* Turn on the ventilation system.
* Clamp the ground lead securely to the workpiece.

[[File:Using-a-hand-held-plasma-cutter-plasma-cutting-sequence.jpg|thumb|475x475px]]

==== Cutting Operation ====
* Hold the torch perpendicular to the work surface at all times.
* Cut only above the open table, do not stand under the torch while cutting.
* Ensure nothing is in the way of your cut; the torch should slide smoothly along the surface of the piece.
* Begin the cut off of the work piece, then slowly move to cut through the metal.
* Maintain a steady speed, always allowing material to be blown out of the bottom of the cut.

==== Post-Cut Procedure ====
* Turn off power and disconnect the air supply.
* Let materials cool fully before handling them.
* Coil cables neatly and store equipment safely.
* Return all PPE to the cabinets

==== Clean-Up ====
* Clear metal debris.
* Ensure ventilation runs until fumes are dispersed.
* Using a second person, carefully close the lid of the plasma table. A piece of metal can be used as a shim while closing to ensure fingers aren’t pinched.
* Report any issues or damage.

File:Spot weld.png

2025-07-16T20:41:38Z

Eparkhouse:

spot weld

File:Spot welder.png

2025-07-16T20:35:38Z

Eparkhouse:

Spot welder

File:Stick weld.png

2025-07-16T20:34:32Z

Eparkhouse:

stick weld

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding

2025-07-16T19:57:54Z

Eparkhouse: /* Before starting */

== About ==
[[File:Aluminum vs Stainless Steel Welding.webp|thumb|MIG welding]]
Welding is a fabrication process where two or more pieces of metal are joined together using heat. This process creates a solid connection by melting the materials and allowing them to cool and fuse. Welding is a common method for creating durable joints in various applications, including manufacturing and repair.

There are three main categories of welding processes; Arc welding, Gas welding, and Resistance welding. MIG, TIG, Stick, and Plasma cutting fall under arc welding processes. Oxyfuel welding is the most common gas welding process, and spot welding is the most common resistance process.

Arc welding works by conducting a current from the electrode to the workpiece, and then lifting the electrode to force the current to jump through the air. Since air is a strong insulator, the resistance causes extreme heat which then melts the workpiece. Think of this like a miniature lightning bolt.

Gas welding uses a flammable gas as fuel mixed with oxygen to make a hot flame which melts the workpiece. Once molten, filler material can be added to fuze pieces to each other. The Brunsfield Center does not have any gas welding equipment.

Resistance welding uses pointed electrodes to pinch the individual pieces together, and the small area of contact creates a point of low voltage and high current which heats, melts, and fuzes the parts together.

For more resources on welding, visit the following YouTube channels:

[https://www.youtube.com/@weldingtipsandtricks Welding Tips and Tricks]

[https://www.youtube.com/@Welddotcom Weld.com]

'''Always remember to stop welding 30min before closure of shop''' to make sure you have time to clean up after yourself and stow the machine properly. Make sure the machine is unplugged and the gas valve is closed.
[[File:Maxresdefault.jpg|thumb|A TIG torch (left) and a MIG torch (right)]]

=== Different types of arc welding ===
MIG (Metal Inert Gas) aka GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding) is like a hot glue gun for metal, it's as easy as point and shoot. It has fixed settings and only one button, and is best for mild steel of small to medium thickness. The filler and electrode are the same wire, making the machine less complicated. Shielding gas, usually ferroline, comes from a bottle out the nozzle of the torch. MIG is most commonly found in automated factories, and as hobby or home use.

Stick aka SMAW (Shielded Metal Arc Welding) has no trigger or pedal, meaning the electrode is always live. Be aware of this between passes when laying the rod down, it can spark on its own. The filler and electrode are the same rod similar to MIG, except the rod is held in a conductive clamp called a stinger and not fed from the machine, so your hands need to move as the rod melts away. Stick welding rods have flux instead of shielding gas; the arc vaporizes the flux, creating its own shielding gas, while leaving a layer of slag on top of the weld to protect it as it cools. Always make sure to remove the slag before the next pass. Stick is most commonly found on pipelines and structural welds, it has very high penetrating power compared to MIG or TIG which is good for stuff that gets dirty, or has paint or coatings.

TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) aka GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) is the most complex process, but most versatile. It is best for aluminum, very small parts, and exotic metals. The torch is controlled by a remote, usually a foot pedal, which can vary amperage (heat) throughout the weld. Filler wire is separate from the torch, fed by hand, and you can even do a weld without adding any filler if you’re cool enough. Shielding gas, usually pure argon, comes from a bottle to the torch, same as for MIG. TIG welding is most commonly found in fabrication shops, aerospace applications, and the automotive industry.

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/MIG|MIG Welding]] ==

=== About ===
[[File:Millermatic 252.png|thumb|A Miller Millermatic 252 MIG welding machine, of which there are two in the Brunsfield Center]]
MIG (Metal Inert Gas) welding, also known as GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding), is a type of arc welding process in which a continuous solid wire electrode is fed through a welding gun and into the weld pool. The process uses a shielding gas, typically a mix of argon and <chem>CO2</chem>to protect the weld from contaminants in the atmosphere. MIG welding is widely used for its ease of use, speed, and adaptability to various metals.

=== How it works ===
In MIG welding, an electric arc forms between the wire electrode and the metal workpiece, heating them and causing them to melt and fuse. A motorized system feeds the wire at a controlled speed, while gas flows through the same gun to shield the weld.

* '''Wire electrode''': consumable, ER70S-6 for mild steel.
* '''Shielding gas''': Ferroline C25, 75% argon / 25% CO₂ for steel.
* '''Voltage and wire speed''': adjusted based on material thickness.

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|'''Metal Thickness'''
|'''Voltage'''
|'''Wire Speed (In/min)'''
|-
!'''1/2<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''29.5'''
!'''515'''
|-
!'''3/8<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''26.0'''
!'''475'''
|-
!'''1/4<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''21.0'''
!'''375'''
|-
!'''3/16<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''18.4'''
!'''265'''
|-
!'''1/8<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''17.4'''
!'''230'''
|-
!'''14ga.'''
!'''16.5'''
!'''190'''
|-
!'''18ga.'''
!'''15.8'''
!'''120'''
|}

=== Equipment Setup ===
Before turning on the welding machine, make sure that all safety measures are being followed. In particular, make sure all the proper PPE is being worn, nothing flammable is in the welding area, and close the curtains to protect others outised the welding area.

A simple procedure can be followed to properly start up the MIG welders.

# Passing gas
## Molten metal will oxidize more rapidly due to the heat and ruin the integrity of the weld. Inert “shielding” gas prevents this
## The cylinders need to be opened when welding
## Never overtighten or over open the valve on the cylinder
## Small knob on side of regulator controls flow
## Flow meter shows increase but not decrease in flow unless gas is released
## Purge gas line and adjust to 25cfh for MIG (marked line on MIG bottles)
## 25% co2 (ferroline c25) for MIG and 100% Argon for TIG
## Regulator will show how much gas is left in the cylinder
## If you run out of gas, ask a supervisor to change the bottle for you. '''DO NOT TRY TO CHANGE YOURSELF'''
# All about the settings
## MIG machine only has two settings; wire feed speed and voltage
## Chart above is on the machine or the door of the cabinet
# The insides
## The MIG welder has a cover on the side that holds the filler wire
## Students should ask a supervisor before changing the wire
## Tension adjustment knob and lever system (don’t play with it)
# The torch
## As you press the trigger on the torch the wire and gas feed out
## Clean spatter (about every 30 min) to prevent welding or notching nozzle
## Taking off the nozzle we can see the contact tip
# Staying grounded
## The ground needs to be attached in order for the electrical current to pass from the torch to your workpiece then back to the machine (closed circuit)
## MIG welding requires a very good ground therefore it is always better to clamp the ground clamp directly onto the workpiece if possible
## When clamping on the table, clamp as close to your workpiece as possible
# Ready to weld
## Positioning your body so that you are comfortable will make a significant difference in weld quality
## Position yourself so you can see what you are doing
## Warn others before welding to avoid flashburn (bright arc in eyes)
## Snip off excess wire, clear off the contact tip and nozzle
## No more than ½" stickout
## Do a “dry run” (trace your weld path with the torch) to make sure you can reach comfortably

=== Technique ===
[[File:Weld-bead-appearance-mig-settings.jpg|thumb|345x345px]]

* When MIG welding it is important to hold the torch a certain way in order to achieve the best results
** When welding a t joint or lap joint, it is recommended to hold the torch at a 45deg angle to the joint and use approximately a 5 to 15deg lead angle (ie pointing backwards to direction of travel)
** For flat or butt joints, hold the torch at 90deg to the surface and with 5-15deg lead angle
** Some kind of elbow rest can come in handy here—use some scrap and make your own!

* Slow and smooth movements are best
** Use two hands or rest your elbow/forearm on the table/rest to keep steady
** Stay consistent!

* Use shadows and reflections as landmarks to help keep a straight line
** Turn your helmet shade down a bit if you’re struggling to see

* Do a pattern that keeps the arc at the front of the puddle to get better heat penetration
** Zig zags are always good
** Welding right to left, do C’s like this: CCCCCCCCC so the point is ahead of the weld
** Left to right do it the other way: >>>>>>>>>>>>
** Loop di loops or figure 8’s

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG|TIG Welding]] ==

=== About ===
Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welding, also known as Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW), is a precise welding process that uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to produce the weld. Known for its high-quality, clean welds, TIG welding is commonly used on thin materials such as stainless steel and aluminum in industries requiring strong, visually appealing joints.

=== The TIG torch ===
[[File:TIG torch.png|thumb|A disassembled TIG torch]]

==== Assembly ====

* Collet body screws into the front of the torch body
** Gas lens does the same thing, creates laminar flow for getting into tight spots

* Collet goes into the back of the collet body
** Notice slits on collet, acts like springs
** Inside of collet body is tapered, pinches the collet closed

* Ceramic gas cup screws on top of collet body

* Sharpened electrode goes in through the back of torch
** Grey paint: 2% ceriated is a good all-purpose electrode, ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals
** “rule of thumb” for stickout, half the width of your thumb from the cup to the tip of the elctrode

* Tail cap screws onto back of torch body, seals the collet and electrode

==== Spare parts ====
All internal parts are made of copper for its conductivity. Copper is very soft so be careful to never over-tighten anything when assembling the torche. All these parts get worn out over time, they will tarnish due to the heat, slowly losing its conductivity. Brand new parts are very shiny, bright red and conduct electricity very well; you will notice a more stable arc when you replace an old part with a new one.

There are also different sized parts for different applications. Thicker material requires more heat to weld, meaning a thicker electrode to conduct more current, thus needing larger collet and collet body, and more gas to shield, meaning a larger cup. On the other hand, thinner material requires less amperage, and when an electrode is too big for the amount of amperage the arc becomes unstable and difficult to start. Therefore, a smaller electrode, collet, and collet body should be installed, along with a smaller gas cup to concentrate the gas on the smaller weld pool.

==== Electrode ====
TIG welding uses a tungsten as an electrode. Tungsten has an extremely high melting point (3422C, 6191F), so when you weld the electrode gets hot but it doesn't melt. This means the electrode is non-consummable, it won’t last forever but it doesn’t melt and become part of the weld (unlike MIG where the electrode melts and becomes filler metal. This is a consumable electrode process)

The color of the electrode indicates the type of tungsten alloy. Some of the more common alloys include:

* Grey is 2% ceriated, good choice for all types of welding; providing good arc start and restart characteristics with no spitting. It is ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals.

* 2% lanthanated tungsten (color-coded blue) is a true all-purpose electrode, with excellent arc starting characteristics and the ability to transmit high current without spitting. It provides a stable arc at both high and low current, and works very well on all metals.

* Rare earth tungsten (chartreuse) has the very best low-current arc starting characteristics, and it can be used on all metals. This type is often preferred for automated welding.

* Zirconiated tungsten (white) is good for welding aluminum and magnesium alloys. It has high current-carrying capacity, and it provides better arc starts and stability than pure tungsten.
[[File:Electrode prep.png|thumb]]
[[File:W angle.png|thumb]]

==== Sharpening your tungsten ====

* Make sure to use the left of the two small wheels, labeled for tungsten

* Wear gloves, it’ll get toasty

* Don't use pliers, not enough grip

* Hold the electrode in line with the wheel, pointing up against the rotation

* Want grind lines running towards the point to direct the current

* If it grabs the wheel, it’ll just push you away

* Holding it downward will pull you into the wheel and revoke your finger privileges

* Spin it slowly and constantly in your fingers

* Looking for a uniform cone, don’t want flat spots

* Aim for 30 degrees

* Break off the point

* Don't want any burrs to throw off our arc

* The flat end helps a little with penetration

==== Machine Setup ====

===== Starting the machine =====

* Plug in, flip power switch

* Open gas valve, set flow to 15-20CFH

* Need to have gas flowing to read flowmeter, press the pedal down

* Connect the ground clamp

* Set the pedal and torch in a comfortable position

===== Settings =====

====== Amperage ======
As a general rule of thumb, start by setting the amperage equivalent to the thickness of your part in thousandths of an inch, ie. 1A = 0.001". So for a 1/8" practice coupon, start out at 125A.

However, with more experience you will learn to play around with this setting to suit your particular style. For example, some people might set their amperage to 140A for 1/8" Aluminum to get an extra kick when starting their weld, even though they'll only use 50% of the pedal (70-80A) for the rest of the weld after it's started.
[[File:AC welding.png|thumb]]

====== Polarity ======

* AC for Aluminum and Magnesium
** Electrode positive phase, electrons flowing from workpiece to electrode, blows through the back of the oxide layer
** Electrode negative phase, electrons flowing from the electrode to the workpiece, actually melts the pure aluminum inside to make a weld

* DC for all other metals

====== Process ======
This setting controls how the arc starts.

* HF impulse allows to press the pedal and start the arc without needing to touch the workpiece to start the flow of electricity, using high-voltage high-frequency electric pulses

* Lift start requires you to touch the tungsten to the workpiece, press the pedal down, then lift off to start the arc

* Stick (scratch start) is when the electrode stays live at all times so the arc starts as soon as you make contact

====== Output ======
This setting determines what activates the arc.

* Remote allows you to use a foot pedal or hand remote

* 2T hold acts like a toggle function

====== Pulser ======
Use this setting to periodically decrease the heat for smaller parts.

* PPS stands for pulses per second

* Peak time is how long each pulse is at max amperage as a percentage of the PPS

* Background amperage is the minimum amperage in between pulses

====== Sequence ======
Use this setting in conjunction with the 2T hold setting for when a remote (foot pedal) isn’t available or practical.

* Initial amperage is the amount of amps used to initiate the arc, usually based on electrode size

* Initial slope is how long it will take to go from initial A to your working amperage

* Final slope is how long it will take to decrease from working A to final A

* Final A is the amperage right before the arc cuts out

====== Adjust ======

* Preflow is how long the gas will flow before the weld starts, to clear out any impurities for the start

* Postflow is gas flow after the weld, to protect the weld and the electrode as they cool

* DIG is used for stick welding, prevents the electrode from sticking to the workpiece

====== AC Waveshape ======

* Balance changes how much cleaning actions happens to remove the Al oxide. Lower balance has more cleaning action

* Frequency changes the width of the AC arc. Higher frequency will have a tighter arc with more penetration

===== Starting Recipes =====
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Material
!0.125" AISI 1018 plate
!0.065" AISI 4130 tube
!0.125" 6061-T6 plate
|-
|Amperage
|130A
|67A
|150A
|-
|Polarity
|DC
|DC
|AC
|-
|Process
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|-
|Output
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|-
|Pulser
|off
|0.8 PPS, 40% peak t, 25A bkgnd A
|off
|-
|Sequence
|off
|off
|off
|-
|Adjust
|0.2s pre-flow, 4s post-flow
|0.5s pre-flow, 5s post-flow
|0.8s pre-flow, 6s post-flow
|-
|AC Waveshape
|off
|off
|70% balance, 80Hz
|}
Start with these settings and play around with them as you practice. Only change one setting at a time until you understand what each one does, that way you can notice the effect of each one.
==== Troubleshooting ====
* Amperage: The weld bead should be about twice as wide as the thickness of the material. If the bead is wider than that, turn the amperage down. Turn the amperage up if the bead is smaller.
* Process: If the arc won't start when you press the foot pedal, check your process setting. If you're in lift arc or stick, the machine expects you to touch the electrode to the workpiece in order to start the flow of current. Use HF Impulse instead for most TIG operations.
* Pulser: If you feel like you don't have enough time to reposition between pulses, decrease the PPS value. If you don't have time to add filler and connect the bead during the pulse, increase the peak t value. If the arc is flickering or dying in between pulses, turn up the background amperage.
* Adjust: if the weld has any porosity or oxidation, check that the gas flow rate is set correctly on the regulator. If the regulator is set correctly and the issue still arises, increase the post-flow value
* AC Waveshape: If the bead is too narrow, decrease the frequency. If it's too narrow AND has poor penetration, increase the amperage instead. If there's too much etching, turn up the balance. If the oxide layer won't break, turn the balance down.

==== Technique ====

===== Before starting =====

* Make sure your tungsten is sharp and your filler rod is a decent length

* Stick your electrode out the same amount as the width of the cup

* Most joints will use about twice the length of filler as the length of the joint, make sure you have enough

* Find a comfortable position. Being comfy is the fastest way to improve your welds

* Trace your path to make sure you can reach and see everything you need to
[[File:Torch angle.png|thumb|Travel angle is as seen from the side of the weld, work angle is as seen from the end of the weld]]

===== Starting the weld =====

* Position your torch so the tip of the electrode is ~1/8” from the surface of the workpiece. Never exceed ¼" (long arcing, poor gas coverage)

* Hold the torch at the correct angle

* 5-15deg lead angle in the plane parallel to the weld, meaning handle tilted back, electrode point in the direction of travel

* 90deg to the face of the weld, meaning vertical for flat welds or butt joints, 45deg from vertical for lap or T joints

* Apply the pedal slowly, develop the puddle

* Look for how the heat input affects the width of the puddle

* For joints, make a tack weld first. Start the arc in the middle of the gap to create a puddle on either side, increase the heat until they connect

* Use filler sparingly at first, make sure the base material fuses fully.

===== Make a bead =====

* Look for how filler input affects the height of the puddle

* Make sure to tie in to your tack or last bead, ie start with some overlap

* For joints, use a back-and-forth motion to connect the two pieces

* Use enough filler to avoid undercut (where the surface dips down)

===== Finishing the weld =====

* Finish the last ~¼" without filler to avoid a big glob at the end

* Make sure to go all the way over your tack or next bead

* Avoid pinholes, lack of fusion

* Slowly lift off pedal, hold torch over the weld

* Maintains gas coverage while the weld and electrode cool

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Stick Welding|Stick Welding]] ==

=== About ===
Stick welding, or Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), is a versatile and widely used welding process that uses a consumable electrode coated in flux to lay the weld. It is known for its simplicity and effectiveness in outdoor or windy conditions, making it ideal for construction, repair, and heavy steel structures.

=== No torch ===
Instead of a torch, stick welding uses a solid rod clamped in a stinger, which is a conductive clamp with grooves to hold the rod. The rod serves a triple purpose; it acts as the electrode by carrying current from the stinger to the workpiece, serves as filler material to fill the weld, and is covered in flux which vaporizes to become the shielding gas.

There are different kinds of rods for different purposes. The most common are listed below.

* 7018 is the most common all-purpose rod

* 6010/6011 are both very high strength, used for heavy duty applications

Many industrial processes will use a combination of 6010 for the root, and 7018 for the fill and cap.

=== Machine setup ===

* Plug in, turn on, connect ground clamp

* No gas needed because of flux

* No foot pedal either

==== Settings ====

* Depending on the electrode being used, you may need to flip the polarity
** Some rods run only DCEN, only DCEP, or only AC, some run a combination of the three
** Direct current electrode negative (DCEN) means the electrode is connected to the negative terminal of the machine and the ground connect to the positive
** And vice versa for DCEP

* Make sure the correct process and output is selected
** Process: stick
** Output: on
** Adjust: DIG
** All other settings should be default or off

* DO NOT put a rod in the stinger until you are ready to weld
** As soon as the ground clamp is connected, the stinger is LIVE
** If you leave a rod in the stinger, it will spark every time it touches the table

* Set amperage depending on rod rather than material thickness

* For 1/8” 7018 rod on 1/8” material, start at 110A and increase as needed

[[File:Stick_Welding_Settings.png|thumb]]

* As you can see in the chart, the rod size depends on the material size, and then the amperage depends on the rod size

* Bigger rods have more penetration

=== Technique ===

==== Before starting ====

* Find a comfortable position
** Use scrap, clamps, extra gloves etc to make an elbow/wrist rest
** Beware that your rod will shrink as you weld, account for that in your positioning
** Thumb to pinky

[[File:Thumb_to_pink.png|thumb]]

* Make sure your piece is clean, free of slag
** Have a chipping hammer and wire brush on hand
** Angle grinders or wire wheels can be handy too for really gross parts

* Make sure you have the right size rod
** Don't use a 5/32” rod on 0.065” thick material, it’ll go right through

==== Starting the weld ====

* Stick welding is usually scratch start (like striking a match)

* Scratch the tip of the electrode against the piece to start the flow of current, lift off to create the arc
** Scratching helps to avoid sticking your rod, and to remove bits of slag or flux that may be stuck to the end of the rod
** Scratch on a clean area, ahead of where you want to weld so you cover the arc strike

* Once the arc is started, don’t pull away too far!!! Arc length is crucial
** Too far away (long-arcing) will cause porosity, undercut, unstable arc
** Short-arcing will smoother the weld, rod will stick, poke holes
** But too short is better than too long

* Rod angle should generally be close to the middle of the two faces being joined
** Meaning 45deg for t joint, 90deg for butt joint etc ('''work angle''')
** Also using a slight (10-20deg) lead angle ie “dragging” the tip of the rod, to avoid pushing slag into the weld puddle ('''travel angle''')

* Make a tack weld at either end/on either side before doing the full bead, same as with MIG/TIG
** Once the tack is made, you have to “tie” it in to the bead
** Back-track to cover your tack before proceeding to the full bead
** This will avoid pinholes, undercut, bad toe lines etc

==== Finishing the weld ====

* At the end of the bead, “snap” the rod off
** Not snap as in break, more like a whip motion
** This will kill the arc quickly, rather than getting porosity from long-arcing as you pull away slowly (not good)
** This will also toss off any slag or molten metal from the end of the rod, makes the next restart easier

* Chip away any slag, wire brush any rust or spatter before starting the next bead
** Always easier to weld a clean part

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Spot Welding|Spot Welding]] ==

=== About ===
A '''spot welder''' is a type of resistance welding machine used to join two or more metal surfaces at small points by applying pressure and passing a strong electrical current through the metal. The heat generated by the electrical resistance at the interface of the workpieces causes them to melt and fuse. Spot welding is commonly used in the automotive industry, metal fabrication, and manufacturing of appliances.

=== Safety Considerations ===

* Risk of burns from hot metal and electrodes.

* Electrical hazards due to high current.

* Eye protection needed for sparks.

* Proper ventilation required to avoid inhalation of fumes.

=== Principle of Operation ===
Spot welding operates on the principle of '''Resistive Heating'''. Two copper alloy electrodes are used to clamp the workpieces together. A high-current, low-voltage electric pulse is then passed through the metals, typically for a few milliseconds. Because the current is concentrated at the point of contact and the resistance is highest there, the material heats and melts at that spot, forming a weld nugget.

=== Components ===
A typical spot welder consists of:

* '''Control System''': Regulates weld time, pressure, and current.

* '''Transformer''': Steps down voltage and increases current.

* '''Electrodes''': Copper alloy tips that conduct current and apply pressure.

* '''Tongs''': Provide leverage and spacing for the workpieces.

* '''Cooling System''': Often water-cooled to prevent overheating of electrodes.

=== Applications ===
Spot welders are widely used in:

* '''Automotive Manufacturing''': For joining body panels and frame components.

* '''Battery Packs''': To weld tabs on cylindrical and pouch-type battery cells.

* '''Sheet Metal Fabrication''': In appliances, cabinets, and enclosures.

* '''Aerospace and Electronics''': For precise, localized joining of components.

=== Advantages ===

* Fast and efficient for mass production.

* No need for filler material.

* Minimal heat-affected zone (HAZ).

* Consistent and repeatable weld quality with proper control.

=== Limitations ===

* Limited to thin sheet metals (typically less than 3 mm or 1/8” thick).

* Not suitable for non-conductive materials or thick components.

* Weld strength may vary with contamination or improper setup.

* Electrode wear requires regular maintenance.

* The MTC spot welder cannot weld aluminum since it requires higher current than the machine is rated for

=== Training and Operation ===
Spot welders are often rated as a '''Class 2 or 3 operation''' in machine shop environments like Brunsfield Center, meaning users require a brief training and oversight to safely perform welds. Training focuses on:

* PPE use (e.g., safety glasses, gloves)

* Setting weld time and current

* Electrode alignment

* Handling hot workpieces safely

To operate the spot welder, particular procedures must be followed to ensure safe and effective operation. Before use, make sure to have MIG welding gloves or pliers immediately available to handle the workpiece after welding and avoid burns.

* Turn the machine on, set the timer to the correct length of time
** For mild/galvanized steel, set the timer between 0.75 and 1.00 seconds
** For stainless steel, set the timer between 0.25 and 0.50 seconds
** Setting the timer too short will result in a cold joint and lack of fusion. Setting the timer too long will deform the material and cause the weld cross section to be smaller. Both result in a weak weld
** While some spot welders can weld aluminum, the MTC spot welder cannot. It does not have AC capability which aluminum requires to weld.

* Position the pieces to be welded between the tongs
** Make sure the pieces are aligned correctly relative to each other
** Make sure no part of the piece is touching any part of the tong other than the contact tip. This will split the current, causing the weld to not be as hot, which can cause lack of fusion
** For pieces more than 4” across, use a free hand to support the piece and prevent tipping
** Use a MIG glove to support the piece to avoid burns

* Hold the trigger for the full duration of the timer
** Failing to do so can result in a cold weld and lack of fusion
** The timer shuts the welder off automatically after it runs out; don’t worry about over-doing it

* Once the timer runs out, release the clamp and remove the workpiece
** DO NOT TOUCH with bare hands
** The piece will be hot, use pliers or gloves to handle until it cools
** Running the piece under the sink will cool it quickly, but the rapid change in temperature may cause cracks in the weld. For any joint that will be under load, allow to cool slowly

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Plasma Cutting|Plasma Cutting]] ==

=== About ===
[[File:Crossfire-85HD-Plasma-Cutter-Thick-Cut_941x630.jpg|thumb]]
The plasma gun uses as arc (like welding) coupled with a stream of compressed air to melt away metal using the torch. It can be used to cut thicker metals quickly, but leaves a rough surface finish.

Operating the plasma gun is very similar to a [[MIG]] welder. It is done in the welding bay in Brunsfield and require MIG training before operating. This is considered an advance manufacturing technology, '''please check in with a staff before commencing.'''

=== Operating Procedure ===

==== Preparation ====
* Ensure the welding curtains are fully closed around the cutting zone.
* Prepare your piece by marking your cuts and setting up a jig if repeated cuts are to be made.

==== Plasma Table ====
* Clear all items from the surface of the plasma table.
* Ensure both wheel casters are in the locked position.
* With the help of another person, lift open the lid of the table until it hangs down at the side. Lift from both front corners slowly and set the lid down gently.
* Pinching Hazard! The table lid is very heavy. Use caution and ask for hep if needed.

[[File:PremierPlasmaCNCSafetyKit.webp|thumb|330x330px]]

==== PPE Check ====
* Wear a welding helmet or plasma glasses, gloves, welding jacket, long (non-systhetic) pants that are tucked over your boots, and safety boots.
* Use hearing protection if required.
* Use an N-95 mask or respirator.

==== Setup and Power-On ====
* Connect the power cable to the back of the machine.
* Check the air pressure and power settings on the plasma cutter.
* Connect the air hose to the plasma cutter.
* Turn on the ventilation system.
* Clamp the ground lead securely to the workpiece.

[[File:Using-a-hand-held-plasma-cutter-plasma-cutting-sequence.jpg|thumb|475x475px]]

==== Cutting Operation ====
* Hold the torch perpendicular to the work surface at all times.
* Cut only above the open table, do not stand under the torch while cutting.
* Ensure nothing is in the way of your cut; the torch should slide smoothly along the surface of the piece.
* Begin the cut off of the work piece, then slowly move to cut through the metal.
* Maintain a steady speed, always allowing material to be blown out of the bottom of the cut.

==== Post-Cut Procedure ====
* Turn off power and disconnect the air supply.
* Let materials cool fully before handling them.
* Coil cables neatly and store equipment safely.
* Return all PPE to the cabinets

==== Clean-Up ====
* Clear metal debris.
* Ensure ventilation runs until fumes are dispersed.
* Using a second person, carefully close the lid of the plasma table. A piece of metal can be used as a shim while closing to ensure fingers aren’t pinched.
* Report any issues or damage.

File:AC welding.png

2025-07-16T18:08:12Z

Eparkhouse:

ac welding

File:Torch angle.png

2025-07-16T18:05:10Z

Eparkhouse:

torch angle

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding

2025-07-16T17:54:14Z

Eparkhouse: /* How it works */

== About ==
[[File:Aluminum vs Stainless Steel Welding.webp|thumb|MIG welding]]
Welding is a fabrication process where two or more pieces of metal are joined together using heat. This process creates a solid connection by melting the materials and allowing them to cool and fuse. Welding is a common method for creating durable joints in various applications, including manufacturing and repair.

There are three main categories of welding processes; Arc welding, Gas welding, and Resistance welding. MIG, TIG, Stick, and Plasma cutting fall under arc welding processes. Oxyfuel welding is the most common gas welding process, and spot welding is the most common resistance process.

Arc welding works by conducting a current from the electrode to the workpiece, and then lifting the electrode to force the current to jump through the air. Since air is a strong insulator, the resistance causes extreme heat which then melts the workpiece. Think of this like a miniature lightning bolt.

Gas welding uses a flammable gas as fuel mixed with oxygen to make a hot flame which melts the workpiece. Once molten, filler material can be added to fuze pieces to each other. The Brunsfield Center does not have any gas welding equipment.

Resistance welding uses pointed electrodes to pinch the individual pieces together, and the small area of contact creates a point of low voltage and high current which heats, melts, and fuzes the parts together.

For more resources on welding, visit the following YouTube channels:

[https://www.youtube.com/@weldingtipsandtricks Welding Tips and Tricks]

[https://www.youtube.com/@Welddotcom Weld.com]

'''Always remember to stop welding 30min before closure of shop''' to make sure you have time to clean up after yourself and stow the machine properly. Make sure the machine is unplugged and the gas valve is closed.
[[File:Maxresdefault.jpg|thumb|A TIG torch (left) and a MIG torch (right)]]

=== Different types of arc welding ===
MIG (Metal Inert Gas) aka GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding) is like a hot glue gun for metal, it's as easy as point and shoot. It has fixed settings and only one button, and is best for mild steel of small to medium thickness. The filler and electrode are the same wire, making the machine less complicated. Shielding gas, usually ferroline, comes from a bottle out the nozzle of the torch. MIG is most commonly found in automated factories, and as hobby or home use.

Stick aka SMAW (Shielded Metal Arc Welding) has no trigger or pedal, meaning the electrode is always live. Be aware of this between passes when laying the rod down, it can spark on its own. The filler and electrode are the same rod similar to MIG, except the rod is held in a conductive clamp called a stinger and not fed from the machine, so your hands need to move as the rod melts away. Stick welding rods have flux instead of shielding gas; the arc vaporizes the flux, creating its own shielding gas, while leaving a layer of slag on top of the weld to protect it as it cools. Always make sure to remove the slag before the next pass. Stick is most commonly found on pipelines and structural welds, it has very high penetrating power compared to MIG or TIG which is good for stuff that gets dirty, or has paint or coatings.

TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) aka GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) is the most complex process, but most versatile. It is best for aluminum, very small parts, and exotic metals. The torch is controlled by a remote, usually a foot pedal, which can vary amperage (heat) throughout the weld. Filler wire is separate from the torch, fed by hand, and you can even do a weld without adding any filler if you’re cool enough. Shielding gas, usually pure argon, comes from a bottle to the torch, same as for MIG. TIG welding is most commonly found in fabrication shops, aerospace applications, and the automotive industry.

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/MIG|MIG Welding]] ==

=== About ===
[[File:Millermatic 252.png|thumb|A Miller Millermatic 252 MIG welding machine, of which there are two in the Brunsfield Center]]
MIG (Metal Inert Gas) welding, also known as GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding), is a type of arc welding process in which a continuous solid wire electrode is fed through a welding gun and into the weld pool. The process uses a shielding gas, typically a mix of argon and <chem>CO2</chem>to protect the weld from contaminants in the atmosphere. MIG welding is widely used for its ease of use, speed, and adaptability to various metals.

=== How it works ===
In MIG welding, an electric arc forms between the wire electrode and the metal workpiece, heating them and causing them to melt and fuse. A motorized system feeds the wire at a controlled speed, while gas flows through the same gun to shield the weld.

* '''Wire electrode''': consumable, ER70S-6 for mild steel.
* '''Shielding gas''': Ferroline C25, 75% argon / 25% CO₂ for steel.
* '''Voltage and wire speed''': adjusted based on material thickness.

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|'''Metal Thickness'''
|'''Voltage'''
|'''Wire Speed (In/min)'''
|-
!'''1/2<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''29.5'''
!'''515'''
|-
!'''3/8<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''26.0'''
!'''475'''
|-
!'''1/4<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''21.0'''
!'''375'''
|-
!'''3/16<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''18.4'''
!'''265'''
|-
!'''1/8<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''17.4'''
!'''230'''
|-
!'''14ga.'''
!'''16.5'''
!'''190'''
|-
!'''18ga.'''
!'''15.8'''
!'''120'''
|}

=== Equipment Setup ===
Before turning on the welding machine, make sure that all safety measures are being followed. In particular, make sure all the proper PPE is being worn, nothing flammable is in the welding area, and close the curtains to protect others outised the welding area.

A simple procedure can be followed to properly start up the MIG welders.

# Passing gas
## Molten metal will oxidize more rapidly due to the heat and ruin the integrity of the weld. Inert “shielding” gas prevents this
## The cylinders need to be opened when welding
## Never overtighten or over open the valve on the cylinder
## Small knob on side of regulator controls flow
## Flow meter shows increase but not decrease in flow unless gas is released
## Purge gas line and adjust to 25cfh for MIG (marked line on MIG bottles)
## 25% co2 (ferroline c25) for MIG and 100% Argon for TIG
## Regulator will show how much gas is left in the cylinder
## If you run out of gas, ask a supervisor to change the bottle for you. '''DO NOT TRY TO CHANGE YOURSELF'''
# All about the settings
## MIG machine only has two settings; wire feed speed and voltage
## Chart above is on the machine or the door of the cabinet
# The insides
## The MIG welder has a cover on the side that holds the filler wire
## Students should ask a supervisor before changing the wire
## Tension adjustment knob and lever system (don’t play with it)
# The torch
## As you press the trigger on the torch the wire and gas feed out
## Clean spatter (about every 30 min) to prevent welding or notching nozzle
## Taking off the nozzle we can see the contact tip
# Staying grounded
## The ground needs to be attached in order for the electrical current to pass from the torch to your workpiece then back to the machine (closed circuit)
## MIG welding requires a very good ground therefore it is always better to clamp the ground clamp directly onto the workpiece if possible
## When clamping on the table, clamp as close to your workpiece as possible
# Ready to weld
## Positioning your body so that you are comfortable will make a significant difference in weld quality
## Position yourself so you can see what you are doing
## Warn others before welding to avoid flashburn (bright arc in eyes)
## Snip off excess wire, clear off the contact tip and nozzle
## No more than ½" stickout
## Do a “dry run” (trace your weld path with the torch) to make sure you can reach comfortably

=== Technique ===
[[File:Weld-bead-appearance-mig-settings.jpg|thumb|345x345px]]

* When MIG welding it is important to hold the torch a certain way in order to achieve the best results
** When welding a t joint or lap joint, it is recommended to hold the torch at a 45deg angle to the joint and use approximately a 5 to 15deg lead angle (ie pointing backwards to direction of travel)
** For flat or butt joints, hold the torch at 90deg to the surface and with 5-15deg lead angle
** Some kind of elbow rest can come in handy here—use some scrap and make your own!

* Slow and smooth movements are best
** Use two hands or rest your elbow/forearm on the table/rest to keep steady
** Stay consistent!

* Use shadows and reflections as landmarks to help keep a straight line
** Turn your helmet shade down a bit if you’re struggling to see

* Do a pattern that keeps the arc at the front of the puddle to get better heat penetration
** Zig zags are always good
** Welding right to left, do C’s like this: CCCCCCCCC so the point is ahead of the weld
** Left to right do it the other way: >>>>>>>>>>>>
** Loop di loops or figure 8’s

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG|TIG Welding]] ==

=== About ===
Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welding, also known as Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW), is a precise welding process that uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to produce the weld. Known for its high-quality, clean welds, TIG welding is commonly used on thin materials such as stainless steel and aluminum in industries requiring strong, visually appealing joints.

=== The TIG torch ===
[[File:TIG torch.png|thumb|A disassembled TIG torch]]

==== Assembly ====

* Collet body screws into the front of the torch body
** Gas lens does the same thing, creates laminar flow for getting into tight spots

* Collet goes into the back of the collet body
** Notice slits on collet, acts like springs
** Inside of collet body is tapered, pinches the collet closed

* Ceramic gas cup screws on top of collet body

* Sharpened electrode goes in through the back of torch
** Grey paint: 2% ceriated is a good all-purpose electrode, ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals
** “rule of thumb” for stickout, half the width of your thumb from the cup to the tip of the elctrode

* Tail cap screws onto back of torch body, seals the collet and electrode

==== Spare parts ====
All internal parts are made of copper for its conductivity. Copper is very soft so be careful to never over-tighten anything when assembling the torche. All these parts get worn out over time, they will tarnish due to the heat, slowly losing its conductivity. Brand new parts are very shiny, bright red and conduct electricity very well; you will notice a more stable arc when you replace an old part with a new one.

There are also different sized parts for different applications. Thicker material requires more heat to weld, meaning a thicker electrode to conduct more current, thus needing larger collet and collet body, and more gas to shield, meaning a larger cup. On the other hand, thinner material requires less amperage, and when an electrode is too big for the amount of amperage the arc becomes unstable and difficult to start. Therefore, a smaller electrode, collet, and collet body should be installed, along with a smaller gas cup to concentrate the gas on the smaller weld pool.

==== Electrode ====
TIG welding uses a tungsten as an electrode. Tungsten has an extremely high melting point (3422C, 6191F), so when you weld the electrode gets hot but it doesn't melt. This means the electrode is non-consummable, it won’t last forever but it doesn’t melt and become part of the weld (unlike MIG where the electrode melts and becomes filler metal. This is a consumable electrode process)

The color of the electrode indicates the type of tungsten alloy. Some of the more common alloys include:

* Grey is 2% ceriated, good choice for all types of welding; providing good arc start and restart characteristics with no spitting. It is ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals.

* 2% lanthanated tungsten (color-coded blue) is a true all-purpose electrode, with excellent arc starting characteristics and the ability to transmit high current without spitting. It provides a stable arc at both high and low current, and works very well on all metals.

* Rare earth tungsten (chartreuse) has the very best low-current arc starting characteristics, and it can be used on all metals. This type is often preferred for automated welding.

* Zirconiated tungsten (white) is good for welding aluminum and magnesium alloys. It has high current-carrying capacity, and it provides better arc starts and stability than pure tungsten.
[[File:Electrode prep.png|thumb]]
[[File:W angle.png|thumb]]

==== Sharpening your tungsten ====

* Make sure to use the left of the two small wheels, labeled for tungsten

* Wear gloves, it’ll get toasty

* Don't use pliers, not enough grip

* Hold the electrode in line with the wheel, pointing up against the rotation

* Want grind lines running towards the point to direct the current

* If it grabs the wheel, it’ll just push you away

* Holding it downward will pull you into the wheel and revoke your finger privileges

* Spin it slowly and constantly in your fingers

* Looking for a uniform cone, don’t want flat spots

* Aim for 30 degrees

* Break off the point

* Don't want any burrs to throw off our arc

* The flat end helps a little with penetration

==== Machine Setup ====

===== Starting the machine =====

* Plug in, flip power switch

* Open gas valve, set flow to 15-20CFH

* Need to have gas flowing to read flowmeter, press the pedal down

* Connect the ground clamp

* Set the pedal and torch in a comfortable position

===== Settings =====

====== Amperage ======
As a general rule of thumb, start by setting the amperage equivalent to the thickness of your part in thousandths of an inch, ie. 1A = 0.001". So for a 1/8" practice coupon, start out at 125A.

However, with more experience you will learn to play around with this setting to suit your particular style. For example, some people might set their amperage to 140A for 1/8" Aluminum to get an extra kick when starting their weld, even though they'll only use 50% of the pedal (70-80A) for the rest of the weld after it's started.

====== Polarity ======

* AC for Aluminum and Magnesium
** Electrode positive phase, electrons flowing from workpiece to electrode, blows through the back of the oxide layer
** Electrode negative phase, electrons flowing from the electrode to the workpiece, actually melts the pure aluminum inside to make a weld

* DC for all other metals

====== Process ======
This setting controls how the arc starts.

* HF impulse allows to press the pedal and start the arc without needing to touch the workpiece to start the flow of electricity

* Lift start requires you to touch the tungsten to the workpiece, press the pedal down, then lift off to start the arc

* Stick (scratch start) is when the electrode stays live at all times so start the arc as soon as you make contact

====== Output ======
This setting determines what activates the arc.

* Remote allows you to use a foot pedal or hand remote

* 2T hold acts like a toggle function

====== Pulser ======
Use this setting to periodically decrease the heat for smaller parts.

* PPS stands for pulses per second

* Peak time is how long each pulse is at max amperage as a percentage of the PPS

* Background amperage is the minimum amperage in between pulses

====== Sequence ======
Use this setting in conjunction with the 2T hold setting for when a remote (foot pedal) isn’t available or practical.

* Initial amperage is the amount of amps used to initiate the arc, usually based on electrode size

* Initial slope is how long it will take to go from initial A to your working amperage

* Final slope is how long it will take to decrease from working A to final A

* Final A is the amperage right before the arc cuts out

====== Adjust ======

* Preflow is how long the gas will flow before the weld starts, to clear out any impurities for the start

* Postflow is gas flow after the weld, to protect the weld and the electrode as they cool

* DIG is used for stick welding, prevents the electrode from sticking to the workpiece

====== AC Waveshape ======

* Balance changes how much cleaning actions happens to remove the Al oxide. Lower balance has more cleaning action

* Frequency changes the width of the AC arc. Higher frequency will have a tighter arc with more penetration

===== Starting Recipes =====
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Material
!0.125" AISI 1018 plate
!0.065" AISI 4130 tube
!0.125" 6061-T6 plate
|-
|Amperage
|130A
|67A
|150A
|-
|Polarity
|DC
|DC
|AC
|-
|Process
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|-
|Output
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|-
|Pulser
|off
|0.8 PPS, 40% peak t, 25A bkgnd A
|off
|-
|Sequence
|off
|off
|off
|-
|Adjust
|0.2s pre-flow, 4s post-flow
|0.5s pre-flow, 5s post-flow
|0.8s pre-flow, 6s post-flow
|-
|AC Waveshape
|off
|off
|70% balance, 80Hz
|}
Start with these settings and play around with them as you practice. Only change one setting at a time until you understand what each one does, that way you can notice the effect of each one.
==== Troubleshooting ====
* Amperage: The weld bead should be about twice as wide as the thickness of the material. If the bead is wider than that, turn the amperage down. Turn the amperage up if the bead is smaller.
* Process: If the arc won't start when you press the foot pedal, check your process setting. If you're in lift arc or stick, the machine expects you to touch the electrode to the workpiece in order to start the flow of current. Use HF Impulse instead for most TIG operations.
* Pulser: If you feel like you don't have enough time to reposition between pulses, decrease the PPS value. If you don't have time to add filler and connect the bead during the pulse, increase the peak t value. If the arc is flickering or dying in between pulses, turn up the background amperage.
* Adjust: if the weld has any porosity or oxidation, check that the gas flow rate is set correctly on the regulator. If the regulator is set correctly and the issue still arises, increase the post-flow value
* AC Waveshape: If the bead is too narrow, decrease the frequency. If it's too narrow AND has poor penetration, increase the amperage instead. If there's too much etching, turn up the balance. If the oxide layer won't break, turn the balance down.

==== Technique ====

===== Before starting =====

* Make sure your tungsten is sharp and your filler rod is a decent length

* Stick your electrode out the same amount as the width of the cup

* Most joints will use twice the length of filler as the length of the joint

* Find a comfortable position. Being comfy is the fastest way to improve your welds

* Trace your path to make sure you can reach and see everything you need to

===== Starting the weld =====

* Position your torch so the tip of the electrode is ~1/8” from the surface of the workpiece. Never exceed ¼" (long arcing, poor gas coverage)

* Hold the torch at the correct angle

* 5-15deg lead angle in the plane parallel to the weld, meaning handle tilted back, electrode point in the direction of travel

* 90deg to the face of the weld, meaning vertical for flat welds or butt joints, 45deg from vertical for lap or T joints

* Apply the pedal slowly, develop the puddle

* Look for how the heat input affects the width of the puddle

* For joints, make a tack weld first. Start the arc in the middle of the gap to create a puddle on either side, increase the heat until they connect

* Use filler sparingly at first, make sure the base material fuses fully.

===== Make a bead =====

* Look for how filler input affects the height of the puddle

* Make sure to tie in to your tack or last bead, ie start with some overlap

* For joints, use a back-and-forth motion to connect the two pieces

* Use enough filler to avoid undercut (where the surface dips down)

===== Finishing the weld =====

* Finish the last ~¼" without filler to avoid a big glob at the end

* Make sure to go all the way over your tack or next bead

* Avoid pinholes, lack of fusion

* Slowly lift off pedal, hold torch over the weld

* Maintains gas coverage while the weld and electrode cool

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Stick Welding|Stick Welding]] ==

=== About ===
Stick welding, or Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), is a versatile and widely used welding process that uses a consumable electrode coated in flux to lay the weld. It is known for its simplicity and effectiveness in outdoor or windy conditions, making it ideal for construction, repair, and heavy steel structures.

=== No torch ===
Instead of a torch, stick welding uses a solid rod clamped in a stinger, which is a conductive clamp with grooves to hold the rod. The rod serves a triple purpose; it acts as the electrode by carrying current from the stinger to the workpiece, serves as filler material to fill the weld, and is covered in flux which vaporizes to become the shielding gas.

There are different kinds of rods for different purposes. The most common are listed below.

* 7018 is the most common all-purpose rod

* 6010/6011 are both very high strength, used for heavy duty applications

Many industrial processes will use a combination of 6010 for the root, and 7018 for the fill and cap.

=== Machine setup ===

* Plug in, turn on, connect ground clamp

* No gas needed because of flux

* No foot pedal either

==== Settings ====

* Depending on the electrode being used, you may need to flip the polarity
** Some rods run only DCEN, only DCEP, or only AC, some run a combination of the three
** Direct current electrode negative (DCEN) means the electrode is connected to the negative terminal of the machine and the ground connect to the positive
** And vice versa for DCEP

* Make sure the correct process and output is selected
** Process: stick
** Output: on
** Adjust: DIG
** All other settings should be default or off

* DO NOT put a rod in the stinger until you are ready to weld
** As soon as the ground clamp is connected, the stinger is LIVE
** If you leave a rod in the stinger, it will spark every time it touches the table

* Set amperage depending on rod rather than material thickness

* For 1/8” 7018 rod on 1/8” material, start at 110A and increase as needed

[[File:Stick_Welding_Settings.png|thumb]]

* As you can see in the chart, the rod size depends on the material size, and then the amperage depends on the rod size

* Bigger rods have more penetration

=== Technique ===

==== Before starting ====

* Find a comfortable position
** Use scrap, clamps, extra gloves etc to make an elbow/wrist rest
** Beware that your rod will shrink as you weld, account for that in your positioning
** Thumb to pinky

[[File:Thumb_to_pink.png|thumb]]

* Make sure your piece is clean, free of slag
** Have a chipping hammer and wire brush on hand
** Angle grinders or wire wheels can be handy too for really gross parts

* Make sure you have the right size rod
** Don't use a 5/32” rod on 0.065” thick material, it’ll go right through

==== Starting the weld ====

* Stick welding is usually scratch start (like striking a match)

* Scratch the tip of the electrode against the piece to start the flow of current, lift off to create the arc
** Scratching helps to avoid sticking your rod, and to remove bits of slag or flux that may be stuck to the end of the rod
** Scratch on a clean area, ahead of where you want to weld so you cover the arc strike

* Once the arc is started, don’t pull away too far!!! Arc length is crucial
** Too far away (long-arcing) will cause porosity, undercut, unstable arc
** Short-arcing will smoother the weld, rod will stick, poke holes
** But too short is better than too long

* Rod angle should generally be close to the middle of the two faces being joined
** Meaning 45deg for t joint, 90deg for butt joint etc ('''work angle''')
** Also using a slight (10-20deg) lead angle ie “dragging” the tip of the rod, to avoid pushing slag into the weld puddle ('''travel angle''')

* Make a tack weld at either end/on either side before doing the full bead, same as with MIG/TIG
** Once the tack is made, you have to “tie” it in to the bead
** Back-track to cover your tack before proceeding to the full bead
** This will avoid pinholes, undercut, bad toe lines etc

==== Finishing the weld ====

* At the end of the bead, “snap” the rod off
** Not snap as in break, more like a whip motion
** This will kill the arc quickly, rather than getting porosity from long-arcing as you pull away slowly (not good)
** This will also toss off any slag or molten metal from the end of the rod, makes the next restart easier

* Chip away any slag, wire brush any rust or spatter before starting the next bead
** Always easier to weld a clean part

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Spot Welding|Spot Welding]] ==

=== About ===
A '''spot welder''' is a type of resistance welding machine used to join two or more metal surfaces at small points by applying pressure and passing a strong electrical current through the metal. The heat generated by the electrical resistance at the interface of the workpieces causes them to melt and fuse. Spot welding is commonly used in the automotive industry, metal fabrication, and manufacturing of appliances.

=== Safety Considerations ===

* Risk of burns from hot metal and electrodes.

* Electrical hazards due to high current.

* Eye protection needed for sparks.

* Proper ventilation required to avoid inhalation of fumes.

=== Principle of Operation ===
Spot welding operates on the principle of '''Resistive Heating'''. Two copper alloy electrodes are used to clamp the workpieces together. A high-current, low-voltage electric pulse is then passed through the metals, typically for a few milliseconds. Because the current is concentrated at the point of contact and the resistance is highest there, the material heats and melts at that spot, forming a weld nugget.

=== Components ===
A typical spot welder consists of:

* '''Control System''': Regulates weld time, pressure, and current.

* '''Transformer''': Steps down voltage and increases current.

* '''Electrodes''': Copper alloy tips that conduct current and apply pressure.

* '''Tongs''': Provide leverage and spacing for the workpieces.

* '''Cooling System''': Often water-cooled to prevent overheating of electrodes.

=== Applications ===
Spot welders are widely used in:

* '''Automotive Manufacturing''': For joining body panels and frame components.

* '''Battery Packs''': To weld tabs on cylindrical and pouch-type battery cells.

* '''Sheet Metal Fabrication''': In appliances, cabinets, and enclosures.

* '''Aerospace and Electronics''': For precise, localized joining of components.

=== Advantages ===

* Fast and efficient for mass production.

* No need for filler material.

* Minimal heat-affected zone (HAZ).

* Consistent and repeatable weld quality with proper control.

=== Limitations ===

* Limited to thin sheet metals (typically less than 3 mm or 1/8” thick).

* Not suitable for non-conductive materials or thick components.

* Weld strength may vary with contamination or improper setup.

* Electrode wear requires regular maintenance.

* The MTC spot welder cannot weld aluminum since it requires higher current than the machine is rated for

=== Training and Operation ===
Spot welders are often rated as a '''Class 2 or 3 operation''' in machine shop environments like Brunsfield Center, meaning users require a brief training and oversight to safely perform welds. Training focuses on:

* PPE use (e.g., safety glasses, gloves)

* Setting weld time and current

* Electrode alignment

* Handling hot workpieces safely

To operate the spot welder, particular procedures must be followed to ensure safe and effective operation. Before use, make sure to have MIG welding gloves or pliers immediately available to handle the workpiece after welding and avoid burns.

* Turn the machine on, set the timer to the correct length of time
** For mild/galvanized steel, set the timer between 0.75 and 1.00 seconds
** For stainless steel, set the timer between 0.25 and 0.50 seconds
** Setting the timer too short will result in a cold joint and lack of fusion. Setting the timer too long will deform the material and cause the weld cross section to be smaller. Both result in a weak weld
** While some spot welders can weld aluminum, the MTC spot welder cannot. It does not have AC capability which aluminum requires to weld.

* Position the pieces to be welded between the tongs
** Make sure the pieces are aligned correctly relative to each other
** Make sure no part of the piece is touching any part of the tong other than the contact tip. This will split the current, causing the weld to not be as hot, which can cause lack of fusion
** For pieces more than 4” across, use a free hand to support the piece and prevent tipping
** Use a MIG glove to support the piece to avoid burns

* Hold the trigger for the full duration of the timer
** Failing to do so can result in a cold weld and lack of fusion
** The timer shuts the welder off automatically after it runs out; don’t worry about over-doing it

* Once the timer runs out, release the clamp and remove the workpiece
** DO NOT TOUCH with bare hands
** The piece will be hot, use pliers or gloves to handle until it cools
** Running the piece under the sink will cool it quickly, but the rapid change in temperature may cause cracks in the weld. For any joint that will be under load, allow to cool slowly

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Plasma Cutting|Plasma Cutting]] ==

=== About ===
[[File:Crossfire-85HD-Plasma-Cutter-Thick-Cut_941x630.jpg|thumb]]
The plasma gun uses as arc (like welding) coupled with a stream of compressed air to melt away metal using the torch. It can be used to cut thicker metals quickly, but leaves a rough surface finish.

Operating the plasma gun is very similar to a [[MIG]] welder. It is done in the welding bay in Brunsfield and require MIG training before operating. This is considered an advance manufacturing technology, '''please check in with a staff before commencing.'''

=== Operating Procedure ===

==== Preparation ====
* Ensure the welding curtains are fully closed around the cutting zone.
* Prepare your piece by marking your cuts and setting up a jig if repeated cuts are to be made.

==== Plasma Table ====
* Clear all items from the surface of the plasma table.
* Ensure both wheel casters are in the locked position.
* With the help of another person, lift open the lid of the table until it hangs down at the side. Lift from both front corners slowly and set the lid down gently.
* Pinching Hazard! The table lid is very heavy. Use caution and ask for hep if needed.

[[File:PremierPlasmaCNCSafetyKit.webp|thumb|330x330px]]

==== PPE Check ====
* Wear a welding helmet or plasma glasses, gloves, welding jacket, long (non-systhetic) pants that are tucked over your boots, and safety boots.
* Use hearing protection if required.
* Use an N-95 mask or respirator.

==== Setup and Power-On ====
* Connect the power cable to the back of the machine.
* Check the air pressure and power settings on the plasma cutter.
* Connect the air hose to the plasma cutter.
* Turn on the ventilation system.
* Clamp the ground lead securely to the workpiece.

[[File:Using-a-hand-held-plasma-cutter-plasma-cutting-sequence.jpg|thumb|475x475px]]

==== Cutting Operation ====
* Hold the torch perpendicular to the work surface at all times.
* Cut only above the open table, do not stand under the torch while cutting.
* Ensure nothing is in the way of your cut; the torch should slide smoothly along the surface of the piece.
* Begin the cut off of the work piece, then slowly move to cut through the metal.
* Maintain a steady speed, always allowing material to be blown out of the bottom of the cut.

==== Post-Cut Procedure ====
* Turn off power and disconnect the air supply.
* Let materials cool fully before handling them.
* Coil cables neatly and store equipment safely.
* Return all PPE to the cabinets

==== Clean-Up ====
* Clear metal debris.
* Ensure ventilation runs until fumes are dispersed.
* Using a second person, carefully close the lid of the plasma table. A piece of metal can be used as a shim while closing to ensure fingers aren’t pinched.
* Report any issues or damage.

File:W angle.png

2025-07-16T17:43:29Z

Eparkhouse:

W angle

File:Electrode prep.png

2025-07-16T17:41:45Z

Eparkhouse:

electrode prep

File:TIG torch.png

2025-07-16T17:35:01Z

Eparkhouse:

TIG torch components and how they fit

File:Millermatic 252.png

2025-07-16T17:23:19Z

Eparkhouse:

a welding machine with a torch and ground lead

Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router

2025-07-15T20:48:50Z

Eparkhouse: /* What Changes? */

== About Routers ==
Routers and mills both operate in a very similar fashion and share many G-codes, but routers are lighter, faster, and used for cutting soft materials like wood or plastic. Mills are heavier, more rigid, and designed for precise machining of hard materials such as steel. The main difference lies in their construction, cutting power, and the types of materials they’re built to handle.

Routers typically use a gantry setup to move the cutting tool around the part, rather than the part moving around the tool. This allows for much faster travel speeds since the spindle and motor typically weigh less than the table. They also generally operate in the range of 10 000-15 000 RPM, and can get as high as 30 000 RPM, but with very low torque. For this reason, routers are ideal for soft materials like MDF, polycarbonate, or delrin since they require little effort to cut but have very high surface speeds.

Routers also come in many different sizes, from desktop routers as small as a printer to table routers big enough to lie down on. This, and the fact that most are gantry-style, make routers potentially much more affordable than mills as well as being able to be built by hand from a kit or from scratch.

=== What Changes? ===
While it is completely possible to make the same part out of the same material on a mill and a router, the path to do it will differ. The first thing to consider is machine limitations; some mills can't run the spindle beyond 5000 RPM and some routers can ONLY run above 5000 RPM. Routers are also limited in power output while mills are limited in feedrate. All of these factors will necessarily affect how the part is programmed for one machine versus another.

Something else to consider which often gets overlooked is work holding (see [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Mill|Mill]] page for more info). Most mills have a sturdy, usually cast iron or similar, table with T-slots and typically a vise as well. Routers are much more diverse in their work holding options; some tables have T-slots like a mills, while others have grids of threaded holes, magnets, or vacuum systems. It is important to understand the tools at your disposal in order to create a rigid fixture. This is very commonly the longest step of any manufacturing process besides designing the part, so it's worth it to be careful and mindful and not to rush.

However, keep in mind that the machine itself is only so rigid as well. Since routers are not usually as rigid as mills, it is recommended to take cuts with a smaller depth and width to not stress the machine. With a smaller depth of cut, it is now also possible to run the machine faster, which works to the router's advantage.

Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router

2025-07-15T20:03:00Z

Eparkhouse: /* What Changes? */

Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router

2025-07-15T19:37:09Z

Eparkhouse: /* What Changes? */

Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router

2025-07-15T19:36:13Z

Eparkhouse: /* About Routers */

Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router

2025-07-15T18:56:03Z

Eparkhouse: /* About Routers */

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC

2025-07-15T18:36:34Z

Eparkhouse: /* CNC Routers */

== What is CNC? ==
CNC stands for Computer Numerical Control. It is a manufacturing method that involves controlling a machine tool by feeding it computer codes for certain operations. There are many different machines that operate using CNC technology, most commonly mills, lathes, and routers. However, many people don't realize that other machines like 3D printers, laser, plasma, and water jet cutters, wire EDM (electric discharge machining), grinders, pick & place machines and more operate on the same principles, often even using some of the same codes.

All these machines and more use G-Code. G-code is the language we use to talk to the machine, it uses codes like words to tell the machine where to go and what to do. Once the code is uploaded to the machine, the controller turns code into electrical signals which control different parts of the machine like motors, coolant pumps, heaters, and so on. Think of the controller like a translator that translates the code we know to signals the machine understands. Keep in mind that mills will have different codes from routers, lathes and so on (they speak different dialects of the same coding language), and there are even different codes for machines that have 3, 4 or 5 axes or that are made by different brands (like regional accents).

CNC manufacturing can be incredibly useful, but only in the right situation. It is more precise and can produce more complex parts than manual machining, and the time spent actually machining is faster. This is ideal for production runs, complex parts, tight tolerances, or surface finish requirements. On the other hand, it takes much longer to setup (CAD, CAM program, tool setup, machine setup). It also requires in-depth knowledge of programming and CAM software. As such, it is not useful for simple parts, low-scale production, or prototyping.

For more information on CNC machining, including G-code, CAM, and speeds and feeds, visit the following YouTube channels:

[https://www.youtube.com/@haasautomation Haas Automation]

[https://www.youtube.com/@nyccnc NYC CNC]

== Our CNC Machines ==
[[The Brunsfield Center]] and [[Manufacturing Training Center|MTC]] are home to several different CNC machines with a variety of capabilities.

* Haas Mini Mill 2
* Haas TL1 lathe
* Tormach PCNC 1100 mill
* two Larken Automation Camtool 24/36 routers
* Larken Automation System 100 router
* FoxAlien Desktop router

The two Haas machines are our newest and most powerful machines. They are reserved for JMTS teams making custom parts and are operated by the manager of JMTS, Jason Demers. All other CNC machines are available for use by students upon completion of both parts of the [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/CNC Training|CNC training]] and with approval from the Brunsfield manager, Alex Vendette.

== G-Code ==
G-Code is the language used to communicate with CNC machines. Invented in the 1950's at MIT, it used to be punched onto rolls of tapes that were fed into the machine on a wheel. In learning G-Code, you will notice that some codes have become less useful in modern times as technology advances. For example, the code M30 calls the machine to rewind the code as if it were still on a physical tape, even though computers have been in use for three decades.

Nowadays, the power of computers and CAM (computer-aided manufacturing) software has made CNC machining significantly more accessible. Once you have a model of your part, you can simply load it into the CAM software, define the desired tool paths, and adjust a few parameters, and the software will output dozens or even hundreds of pages of code in an instant.

As a coding language, G-Code is relatively simple. A single code will always follow the format of a letter followed by several numbers; this is called a word. A string of words together on the same line is called a block, you can think of this like a sentence. Every code can be sorted into one of three categories: Preparatory codes, Miscellaneous codes, and Address codes. Preparatory codes, or G-codes for short, are the codes that control the machine's movement and geometry. Miscellaneous codes, or M-codes, control auxillary functions of the machine, such as coolant or tool changers. All other codes fall under Address codes.

There is a generally accepted format to organize any G-code program to make sure it runs smoothly, and more important safely.

# Safe start-up codes: this section will includes codes to do things like switching between imperial and metric units, initializing the part origin, selecting a motion mode, and more. The idea is to reset any odd settings that might still be active from the last program and make sure everything is operation as it should.
# Tool loading: this is usually a very small section. It takes care of loading the tool into the spindle of the machine, calling up all the offsets for that tool, and turning the spindle on. It will also turn on cool pumps or other auxillary functions of the machine.
# Rapid to part: this is when the machine will position the tool above the part to start machining. Up until this point, you should run the program in single-block mode, meaning one line of code at a time, to check that everything is working properly.
# Machining operation: from here on, turn off single-block mode and run the program normally. This section is where the fun happens.
# Shut-down sequence: once the machining is done, the tool will move away and the spindle, coolant, and auxillaries will turn off. If you have a multi-tool program, then the next section will restart at step 2 and continue in a loop for however many tools are needed.
# Program end: once all machining passes are done, there should be another line of codes similar to the safe start-up codes to make sure the machine doesn't do anything weird when it comes back online. Finally, you'll see the code to terminate the program and you can grab the part.

== Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM) ==
For all CAM work, CEED recommends Fusion 360 by Autodesk. Fusion 360 is free for students, easy to learn with hours of tutorials across the internet, and can even work in conjunction with Solidworks by uploading Solidworks file types to your Autodesk account.

The following video provides a brief but relatively detailed tutorial on making a part and CAM program in Fusion 360. If you're only interested in the CAM portion of the tutorial because you prefer Solidworks for modelling, you can skip to 5:30.

[https://youtu.be/xRVVUteI1PY?si=-48zC0pI0I_rPwn0&t=329 Fusion 360 tutorial]

You can also find more detailed tutorials and additional resources on the Autodesk website, [https://www.autodesk.com/learn/catalog/product%7Crole%7Ceducators/Fusion%7Ca8f296ee-ec03-4476-ad40-5b1eca5df91b%7Cuniversities here].

== Feeds & Speeds ==
The most important part of programming a part to be machined is feeds and speeds, meaning how fast is the tool spinning, moving across the part, and removing material. Although it may seem daunting at first and can take years of experience to truly master, there are a handful of simple equations that can provide a good starting point.

The goal of these calculations is to find the values for the S code (spindle speed) and the F code (feed rate) in the NC program. However, these values will be different depending on the material of the workpiece, the material of the tool, the size of the tool, the power output of the machine and more. Therefore, we must derive the S and F values from these material and geometry properties.
[[File:RPM_formula.png|thumb|205x205px]]
The first and simplest equation helps us calculate the S value for spindle speed. In this equation, D is the diameter of the tool in inches and SFM is surface feet per minute which is a property of the material. SFM refers to the optimal linear speed of the cutting edge across the surface of the material. Consider cutting a piece of wood with a hacksaw, the SFM value would correspond the speed you push and pull the saw blade through the wood.
[[File:Feed_formula.png|thumb|479x479px]]
To calculate the feed rate, we must first have the spindle speed. The equation that follows also uses the number of flutes or cutting edges on the tool, and a value called Chip Load, also known as IPT, CPT, or FPT (Inch/Chip/Feed per tooth). Chip load refers to the thickness of the chip, or more specifically how much material each flute removes each revolution.

Find more information on calculating feeds and speeds in the Sandvik Coromant blog, [https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-gb/knowledge/machining-formulas-definitions/milling-formulas-definitions?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid-search&utm_campaign=2025_ca_product-focused-sold-round-tools here].

=== Other Condiserations ===
[[File:Chip_thinning.png|thumb]]

==== Chip Thinning ====
Chip thinning<ref name=":0">NYC CNC. (n.d.). ''Getting started: Feeds & speeds''. Retrieved June 16, 2025, from <nowiki>https://nyccnc.com/getting-started-feeds-speeds/</nowiki></ref> is a phenomenon caused by the circular geometry of a milling tool. As radial engagement decreases, the actual thickness of the chips being cut will end up smaller than what the programmed S & F values should produce. At a radial depth of cut (RDOC) of 50% of the tool diameter, the actual and programmed chip load will be exactly equal, but as the RDOC decreases, the cutting edge of the tool will start to enter the material at an angle. Illustration from Harvey Performance<ref>'''Harvey Performance Company. (n.d.).''' ''How to combat chip thinning.'' ''In The Loupe.'' Retrieved June 16, 2025, from <nowiki>https://www.harveyperformance.com/in-the-loupe/combat-chip-thinning/</nowiki></ref>.

For most operations, chip thinning won't be an issue. Where it becomes a problem is in situations where a big tool has a small RDOC, for example a half inch tool taking a .001” finishing pass at a programmed FPT of .005” '''''results in an actual FPT of only 0.0004”'''''<ref name=":0" />. It's important to realize that no cutting edge is ever perfectly sharp. The flutes of most endmills have a radius on the edge of about 0.0001-0.0003", so the operation mentioned above would create chips barely wider than the sharp edge. This will cause the tool to rub more and drastically decrease its useable life.
[[File:Chip_thinning_calc.png|thumb]]
To avoid rubbing, there is a formula to convert the programmed chip load into the actual chip load, based on RDOC and tool diameter. NYC CNC understands that this equation is not very nice to deal with, so they've made a wonderful [https://nyccnc.com/speeds-feeds-excel-worksheet/ excel sheet] that can do almost any S&F calculation you may need. Once you've calculated the optimal chip load for your material, you can adjust the spindle speed, feed rate, and RDOC to achieve it. Keep it mind, however, that changing one of these to the ideal window may bring another outside of that window.
[[File:Mrr.png|thumb|239x239px]]

==== Machine Limitations ====
An important and often overlooked part of dialing in your speeds and feeds is the capability of the machine itself. Some machines have weaker spindles or slower axes than others, and settings that work on one machine may not on another. To find the power requirement of a certain operation, first we need to determine the Material Removal Rate (MRR) which typically has units of cu in/min. Once the MRR is known, divide it by the material's K factor, which represents the MRR that can be acheived by 1HP and is a function of the material hardness.

Another factor of the machine that's less understood is rigiditiy. This refers to how stiff all the joints and connections in the machine are, as well as how much backlash the motors have and the integrity of the work holding method. Any part of the machine or setup that's less rigid than it should be is a potential source of vibration, which can lead to tool chatter, higher wear on the tool and internal parts, poor surface finishes and low tolerances. Therefore, it's important to make your setup as rigid as possible and adjust your feeds and speeds as needed. Although it may seem counter-intuitive, generally it actually helps to go faster to mitigate vibration<ref>Sandvik Coromant. (n.d.). ''Milling vibration''. <nowiki>https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-us/knowledge/milling/vibration</nowiki></ref>.

==== Tool Geometry, Materials, and Coatings ====
While most of the above calculations have been based on solely the work material, it is also important to consider the tool itself. Choosing the right cutting tool material is essential for machining efficiency, requiring a balance of hardness, toughness, and resistance to wear and heat. Materials like High-Speed Steel (HSS), carbide, ceramics, and silicon nitride each offer advantages based on machining conditions. Tool geometry and coatings such as CVD and PVD also play key roles in performance by affecting chip flow, wear resistance, and toughness. While premium tooling may slightly increase costs, it enables higher feeds and speeds, significantly boosting material removal rates and reducing cycle times—often far outweighing the added expense.<ref>'''Hess, E.''' (2024, May). ''Easy guide to cutting tool material selection''. CNC Cookbook. <nowiki>https://www.cnccookbook.com/cutting-tool-materials/</nowiki></ref>

<references />

Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router

2025-07-15T18:36:03Z

Eparkhouse:

== About Routers ==
A router and a mill are both computer-controlled cutting machines, but they differ significantly in their construction, purpose, and capabilities. Routers are typically used for softer materials such as wood, plastic, foam, and occasionally aluminum. They are built with lighter, less rigid frames and operate at very high spindle speeds—often above 15,000 RPM—making them ideal for fast, shallow cuts in large sheets or panels. Mills, on the other hand, are designed for harder materials like steel and brass and are used in applications requiring precision and durability. They feature heavier, more rigid frames to withstand greater cutting forces and usually operate at lower speeds with higher torque. Mills can perform a wider range of operations, including drilling, boring, and tapping, and are better suited for detailed and accurate machining. In summary, routers are optimized for speed and soft materials, while mills are built for precision and hard materials.

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC

2025-07-15T18:35:06Z

Eparkhouse: /* CNC Routers */

== What is CNC? ==
CNC stands for Computer Numerical Control. It is a manufacturing method that involves controlling a machine tool by feeding it computer codes for certain operations. There are many different machines that operate using CNC technology, most commonly mills, lathes, and routers. However, many people don't realize that other machines like 3D printers, laser, plasma, and water jet cutters, wire EDM (electric discharge machining), grinders, pick & place machines and more operate on the same principles, often even using some of the same codes.

All these machines and more use G-Code. G-code is the language we use to talk to the machine, it uses codes like words to tell the machine where to go and what to do. Once the code is uploaded to the machine, the controller turns code into electrical signals which control different parts of the machine like motors, coolant pumps, heaters, and so on. Think of the controller like a translator that translates the code we know to signals the machine understands. Keep in mind that mills will have different codes from routers, lathes and so on (they speak different dialects of the same coding language), and there are even different codes for machines that have 3, 4 or 5 axes or that are made by different brands (like regional accents).

CNC manufacturing can be incredibly useful, but only in the right situation. It is more precise and can produce more complex parts than manual machining, and the time spent actually machining is faster. This is ideal for production runs, complex parts, tight tolerances, or surface finish requirements. On the other hand, it takes much longer to setup (CAD, CAM program, tool setup, machine setup). It also requires in-depth knowledge of programming and CAM software. As such, it is not useful for simple parts, low-scale production, or prototyping.

For more information on CNC machining, including G-code, CAM, and speeds and feeds, visit the following YouTube channels:

[https://www.youtube.com/@haasautomation Haas Automation]

[https://www.youtube.com/@nyccnc NYC CNC]

== Our CNC Machines ==
[[The Brunsfield Center]] and [[Manufacturing Training Center|MTC]] are home to several different CNC machines with a variety of capabilities.

* Haas Mini Mill 2
* Haas TL1 lathe
* Tormach PCNC 1100 mill
* two Larken Automation Camtool 24/36 routers
* Larken Automation System 100 router
* FoxAlien Desktop router

The two Haas machines are our newest and most powerful machines. They are reserved for JMTS teams making custom parts and are operated by the manager of JMTS, Jason Demers. All other CNC machines are available for use by students upon completion of both parts of the [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/CNC Training|CNC training]] and with approval from the Brunsfield manager, Alex Vendette.

== G-Code ==
G-Code is the language used to communicate with CNC machines. Invented in the 1950's at MIT, it used to be punched onto rolls of tapes that were fed into the machine on a wheel. In learning G-Code, you will notice that some codes have become less useful in modern times as technology advances. For example, the code M30 calls the machine to rewind the code as if it were still on a physical tape, even though computers have been in use for three decades.

Nowadays, the power of computers and CAM (computer-aided manufacturing) software has made CNC machining significantly more accessible. Once you have a model of your part, you can simply load it into the CAM software, define the desired tool paths, and adjust a few parameters, and the software will output dozens or even hundreds of pages of code in an instant.

As a coding language, G-Code is relatively simple. A single code will always follow the format of a letter followed by several numbers; this is called a word. A string of words together on the same line is called a block, you can think of this like a sentence. Every code can be sorted into one of three categories: Preparatory codes, Miscellaneous codes, and Address codes. Preparatory codes, or G-codes for short, are the codes that control the machine's movement and geometry. Miscellaneous codes, or M-codes, control auxillary functions of the machine, such as coolant or tool changers. All other codes fall under Address codes.

There is a generally accepted format to organize any G-code program to make sure it runs smoothly, and more important safely.

# Safe start-up codes: this section will includes codes to do things like switching between imperial and metric units, initializing the part origin, selecting a motion mode, and more. The idea is to reset any odd settings that might still be active from the last program and make sure everything is operation as it should.
# Tool loading: this is usually a very small section. It takes care of loading the tool into the spindle of the machine, calling up all the offsets for that tool, and turning the spindle on. It will also turn on cool pumps or other auxillary functions of the machine.
# Rapid to part: this is when the machine will position the tool above the part to start machining. Up until this point, you should run the program in single-block mode, meaning one line of code at a time, to check that everything is working properly.
# Machining operation: from here on, turn off single-block mode and run the program normally. This section is where the fun happens.
# Shut-down sequence: once the machining is done, the tool will move away and the spindle, coolant, and auxillaries will turn off. If you have a multi-tool program, then the next section will restart at step 2 and continue in a loop for however many tools are needed.
# Program end: once all machining passes are done, there should be another line of codes similar to the safe start-up codes to make sure the machine doesn't do anything weird when it comes back online. Finally, you'll see the code to terminate the program and you can grab the part.

== Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM) ==
For all CAM work, CEED recommends Fusion 360 by Autodesk. Fusion 360 is free for students, easy to learn with hours of tutorials across the internet, and can even work in conjunction with Solidworks by uploading Solidworks file types to your Autodesk account.

The following video provides a brief but relatively detailed tutorial on making a part and CAM program in Fusion 360. If you're only interested in the CAM portion of the tutorial because you prefer Solidworks for modelling, you can skip to 5:30.

[https://youtu.be/xRVVUteI1PY?si=-48zC0pI0I_rPwn0&t=329 Fusion 360 tutorial]

You can also find more detailed tutorials and additional resources on the Autodesk website, [https://www.autodesk.com/learn/catalog/product%7Crole%7Ceducators/Fusion%7Ca8f296ee-ec03-4476-ad40-5b1eca5df91b%7Cuniversities here].

== Feeds & Speeds ==
The most important part of programming a part to be machined is feeds and speeds, meaning how fast is the tool spinning, moving across the part, and removing material. Although it may seem daunting at first and can take years of experience to truly master, there are a handful of simple equations that can provide a good starting point.

The goal of these calculations is to find the values for the S code (spindle speed) and the F code (feed rate) in the NC program. However, these values will be different depending on the material of the workpiece, the material of the tool, the size of the tool, the power output of the machine and more. Therefore, we must derive the S and F values from these material and geometry properties.
[[File:RPM_formula.png|thumb|205x205px]]
The first and simplest equation helps us calculate the S value for spindle speed. In this equation, D is the diameter of the tool in inches and SFM is surface feet per minute which is a property of the material. SFM refers to the optimal linear speed of the cutting edge across the surface of the material. Consider cutting a piece of wood with a hacksaw, the SFM value would correspond the speed you push and pull the saw blade through the wood.
[[File:Feed_formula.png|thumb|479x479px]]
To calculate the feed rate, we must first have the spindle speed. The equation that follows also uses the number of flutes or cutting edges on the tool, and a value called Chip Load, also known as IPT, CPT, or FPT (Inch/Chip/Feed per tooth). Chip load refers to the thickness of the chip, or more specifically how much material each flute removes each revolution.

Find more information on calculating feeds and speeds in the Sandvik Coromant blog, [https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-gb/knowledge/machining-formulas-definitions/milling-formulas-definitions?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid-search&utm_campaign=2025_ca_product-focused-sold-round-tools here].

=== Other Condiserations ===
[[File:Chip_thinning.png|thumb]]

==== Chip Thinning ====
Chip thinning<ref name=":0">NYC CNC. (n.d.). ''Getting started: Feeds & speeds''. Retrieved June 16, 2025, from <nowiki>https://nyccnc.com/getting-started-feeds-speeds/</nowiki></ref> is a phenomenon caused by the circular geometry of a milling tool. As radial engagement decreases, the actual thickness of the chips being cut will end up smaller than what the programmed S & F values should produce. At a radial depth of cut (RDOC) of 50% of the tool diameter, the actual and programmed chip load will be exactly equal, but as the RDOC decreases, the cutting edge of the tool will start to enter the material at an angle. Illustration from Harvey Performance<ref>'''Harvey Performance Company. (n.d.).''' ''How to combat chip thinning.'' ''In The Loupe.'' Retrieved June 16, 2025, from <nowiki>https://www.harveyperformance.com/in-the-loupe/combat-chip-thinning/</nowiki></ref>.

For most operations, chip thinning won't be an issue. Where it becomes a problem is in situations where a big tool has a small RDOC, for example a half inch tool taking a .001” finishing pass at a programmed FPT of .005” '''''results in an actual FPT of only 0.0004”'''''<ref name=":0" />. It's important to realize that no cutting edge is ever perfectly sharp. The flutes of most endmills have a radius on the edge of about 0.0001-0.0003", so the operation mentioned above would create chips barely wider than the sharp edge. This will cause the tool to rub more and drastically decrease its useable life.
[[File:Chip_thinning_calc.png|thumb]]
To avoid rubbing, there is a formula to convert the programmed chip load into the actual chip load, based on RDOC and tool diameter. NYC CNC understands that this equation is not very nice to deal with, so they've made a wonderful [https://nyccnc.com/speeds-feeds-excel-worksheet/ excel sheet] that can do almost any S&F calculation you may need. Once you've calculated the optimal chip load for your material, you can adjust the spindle speed, feed rate, and RDOC to achieve it. Keep it mind, however, that changing one of these to the ideal window may bring another outside of that window.
[[File:Mrr.png|thumb|239x239px]]

==== Machine Limitations ====
An important and often overlooked part of dialing in your speeds and feeds is the capability of the machine itself. Some machines have weaker spindles or slower axes than others, and settings that work on one machine may not on another. To find the power requirement of a certain operation, first we need to determine the Material Removal Rate (MRR) which typically has units of cu in/min. Once the MRR is known, divide it by the material's K factor, which represents the MRR that can be acheived by 1HP and is a function of the material hardness.

Another factor of the machine that's less understood is rigiditiy. This refers to how stiff all the joints and connections in the machine are, as well as how much backlash the motors have and the integrity of the work holding method. Any part of the machine or setup that's less rigid than it should be is a potential source of vibration, which can lead to tool chatter, higher wear on the tool and internal parts, poor surface finishes and low tolerances. Therefore, it's important to make your setup as rigid as possible and adjust your feeds and speeds as needed. Although it may seem counter-intuitive, generally it actually helps to go faster to mitigate vibration<ref>Sandvik Coromant. (n.d.). ''Milling vibration''. <nowiki>https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-us/knowledge/milling/vibration</nowiki></ref>.

==== Tool Geometry, Materials, and Coatings ====
While most of the above calculations have been based on solely the work material, it is also important to consider the tool itself. Choosing the right cutting tool material is essential for machining efficiency, requiring a balance of hardness, toughness, and resistance to wear and heat. Materials like High-Speed Steel (HSS), carbide, ceramics, and silicon nitride each offer advantages based on machining conditions. Tool geometry and coatings such as CVD and PVD also play key roles in performance by affecting chip flow, wear resistance, and toughness. While premium tooling may slightly increase costs, it enables higher feeds and speeds, significantly boosting material removal rates and reducing cycle times—often far outweighing the added expense.<ref>'''Hess, E.''' (2024, May). ''Easy guide to cutting tool material selection''. CNC Cookbook. <nowiki>https://www.cnccookbook.com/cutting-tool-materials/</nowiki></ref>

== [[Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router|CNC Routers]] ==
Routers and mill both operate in a very similar fashion and use a lot of the same G-code, but they differ significantly in their construction, purpose, and capabilities. Routers are typically used for softer materials such as wood, plastic, foam, and occasionally aluminum. They are built with lighter, less rigid frames and operate at very high spindle speeds—often above 15,000 RPM—making them ideal for fast, shallow cuts in large sheets or panels. Mills, on the other hand, are designed for harder materials like steel and brass and are used in applications requiring precision and durability. They feature heavier, more rigid frames to withstand greater cutting forces and usually operate at lower speeds with higher torque. Mills can perform a wider range of operations, including drilling, boring, and tapping, and are better suited for detailed and accurate machining. In summary, routers are optimized for speed and soft materials, while mills are built for precision and hard materials.

<references />

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC

2025-07-15T18:24:17Z

Eparkhouse: /* Machine Limitations */

== What is CNC? ==
CNC stands for Computer Numerical Control. It is a manufacturing method that involves controlling a machine tool by feeding it computer codes for certain operations. There are many different machines that operate using CNC technology, most commonly mills, lathes, and routers. However, many people don't realize that other machines like 3D printers, laser, plasma, and water jet cutters, wire EDM (electric discharge machining), grinders, pick & place machines and more operate on the same principles, often even using some of the same codes.

All these machines and more use G-Code. G-code is the language we use to talk to the machine, it uses codes like words to tell the machine where to go and what to do. Once the code is uploaded to the machine, the controller turns code into electrical signals which control different parts of the machine like motors, coolant pumps, heaters, and so on. Think of the controller like a translator that translates the code we know to signals the machine understands. Keep in mind that mills will have different codes from routers, lathes and so on (they speak different dialects of the same coding language), and there are even different codes for machines that have 3, 4 or 5 axes or that are made by different brands (like regional accents).

CNC manufacturing can be incredibly useful, but only in the right situation. It is more precise and can produce more complex parts than manual machining, and the time spent actually machining is faster. This is ideal for production runs, complex parts, tight tolerances, or surface finish requirements. On the other hand, it takes much longer to setup (CAD, CAM program, tool setup, machine setup). It also requires in-depth knowledge of programming and CAM software. As such, it is not useful for simple parts, low-scale production, or prototyping.

For more information on CNC machining, including G-code, CAM, and speeds and feeds, visit the following YouTube channels:

[https://www.youtube.com/@haasautomation Haas Automation]

[https://www.youtube.com/@nyccnc NYC CNC]

== Our CNC Machines ==
[[The Brunsfield Center]] and [[Manufacturing Training Center|MTC]] are home to several different CNC machines with a variety of capabilities.

* Haas Mini Mill 2
* Haas TL1 lathe
* Tormach PCNC 1100 mill
* two Larken Automation Camtool 24/36 routers
* Larken Automation System 100 router
* FoxAlien Desktop router

The two Haas machines are our newest and most powerful machines. They are reserved for JMTS teams making custom parts and are operated by the manager of JMTS, Jason Demers. All other CNC machines are available for use by students upon completion of both parts of the [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/CNC Training|CNC training]] and with approval from the Brunsfield manager, Alex Vendette.

== G-Code ==
G-Code is the language used to communicate with CNC machines. Invented in the 1950's at MIT, it used to be punched onto rolls of tapes that were fed into the machine on a wheel. In learning G-Code, you will notice that some codes have become less useful in modern times as technology advances. For example, the code M30 calls the machine to rewind the code as if it were still on a physical tape, even though computers have been in use for three decades.

Nowadays, the power of computers and CAM (computer-aided manufacturing) software has made CNC machining significantly more accessible. Once you have a model of your part, you can simply load it into the CAM software, define the desired tool paths, and adjust a few parameters, and the software will output dozens or even hundreds of pages of code in an instant.

As a coding language, G-Code is relatively simple. A single code will always follow the format of a letter followed by several numbers; this is called a word. A string of words together on the same line is called a block, you can think of this like a sentence. Every code can be sorted into one of three categories: Preparatory codes, Miscellaneous codes, and Address codes. Preparatory codes, or G-codes for short, are the codes that control the machine's movement and geometry. Miscellaneous codes, or M-codes, control auxillary functions of the machine, such as coolant or tool changers. All other codes fall under Address codes.

There is a generally accepted format to organize any G-code program to make sure it runs smoothly, and more important safely.

# Safe start-up codes: this section will includes codes to do things like switching between imperial and metric units, initializing the part origin, selecting a motion mode, and more. The idea is to reset any odd settings that might still be active from the last program and make sure everything is operation as it should.
# Tool loading: this is usually a very small section. It takes care of loading the tool into the spindle of the machine, calling up all the offsets for that tool, and turning the spindle on. It will also turn on cool pumps or other auxillary functions of the machine.
# Rapid to part: this is when the machine will position the tool above the part to start machining. Up until this point, you should run the program in single-block mode, meaning one line of code at a time, to check that everything is working properly.
# Machining operation: from here on, turn off single-block mode and run the program normally. This section is where the fun happens.
# Shut-down sequence: once the machining is done, the tool will move away and the spindle, coolant, and auxillaries will turn off. If you have a multi-tool program, then the next section will restart at step 2 and continue in a loop for however many tools are needed.
# Program end: once all machining passes are done, there should be another line of codes similar to the safe start-up codes to make sure the machine doesn't do anything weird when it comes back online. Finally, you'll see the code to terminate the program and you can grab the part.

== Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM) ==
For all CAM work, CEED recommends Fusion 360 by Autodesk. Fusion 360 is free for students, easy to learn with hours of tutorials across the internet, and can even work in conjunction with Solidworks by uploading Solidworks file types to your Autodesk account.

The following video provides a brief but relatively detailed tutorial on making a part and CAM program in Fusion 360. If you're only interested in the CAM portion of the tutorial because you prefer Solidworks for modelling, you can skip to 5:30.

[https://youtu.be/xRVVUteI1PY?si=-48zC0pI0I_rPwn0&t=329 Fusion 360 tutorial]

You can also find more detailed tutorials and additional resources on the Autodesk website, [https://www.autodesk.com/learn/catalog/product%7Crole%7Ceducators/Fusion%7Ca8f296ee-ec03-4476-ad40-5b1eca5df91b%7Cuniversities here].

== Feeds & Speeds ==
The most important part of programming a part to be machined is feeds and speeds, meaning how fast is the tool spinning, moving across the part, and removing material. Although it may seem daunting at first and can take years of experience to truly master, there are a handful of simple equations that can provide a good starting point.

The goal of these calculations is to find the values for the S code (spindle speed) and the F code (feed rate) in the NC program. However, these values will be different depending on the material of the workpiece, the material of the tool, the size of the tool, the power output of the machine and more. Therefore, we must derive the S and F values from these material and geometry properties.
[[File:RPM_formula.png|thumb|205x205px]]
The first and simplest equation helps us calculate the S value for spindle speed. In this equation, D is the diameter of the tool in inches and SFM is surface feet per minute which is a property of the material. SFM refers to the optimal linear speed of the cutting edge across the surface of the material. Consider cutting a piece of wood with a hacksaw, the SFM value would correspond the speed you push and pull the saw blade through the wood.
[[File:Feed_formula.png|thumb|479x479px]]
To calculate the feed rate, we must first have the spindle speed. The equation that follows also uses the number of flutes or cutting edges on the tool, and a value called Chip Load, also known as IPT, CPT, or FPT (Inch/Chip/Feed per tooth). Chip load refers to the thickness of the chip, or more specifically how much material each flute removes each revolution.

Find more information on calculating feeds and speeds in the Sandvik Coromant blog, [https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-gb/knowledge/machining-formulas-definitions/milling-formulas-definitions?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid-search&utm_campaign=2025_ca_product-focused-sold-round-tools here].

=== Other Condiserations ===
[[File:Chip_thinning.png|thumb]]

==== Chip Thinning ====
Chip thinning<ref name=":0">NYC CNC. (n.d.). ''Getting started: Feeds & speeds''. Retrieved June 16, 2025, from <nowiki>https://nyccnc.com/getting-started-feeds-speeds/</nowiki></ref> is a phenomenon caused by the circular geometry of a milling tool. As radial engagement decreases, the actual thickness of the chips being cut will end up smaller than what the programmed S & F values should produce. At a radial depth of cut (RDOC) of 50% of the tool diameter, the actual and programmed chip load will be exactly equal, but as the RDOC decreases, the cutting edge of the tool will start to enter the material at an angle. Illustration from Harvey Performance<ref>'''Harvey Performance Company. (n.d.).''' ''How to combat chip thinning.'' ''In The Loupe.'' Retrieved June 16, 2025, from <nowiki>https://www.harveyperformance.com/in-the-loupe/combat-chip-thinning/</nowiki></ref>.

For most operations, chip thinning won't be an issue. Where it becomes a problem is in situations where a big tool has a small RDOC, for example a half inch tool taking a .001” finishing pass at a programmed FPT of .005” '''''results in an actual FPT of only 0.0004”'''''<ref name=":0" />. It's important to realize that no cutting edge is ever perfectly sharp. The flutes of most endmills have a radius on the edge of about 0.0001-0.0003", so the operation mentioned above would create chips barely wider than the sharp edge. This will cause the tool to rub more and drastically decrease its useable life.
[[File:Chip_thinning_calc.png|thumb]]
To avoid rubbing, there is a formula to convert the programmed chip load into the actual chip load, based on RDOC and tool diameter. NYC CNC understands that this equation is not very nice to deal with, so they've made a wonderful [https://nyccnc.com/speeds-feeds-excel-worksheet/ excel sheet] that can do almost any S&F calculation you may need. Once you've calculated the optimal chip load for your material, you can adjust the spindle speed, feed rate, and RDOC to achieve it. Keep it mind, however, that changing one of these to the ideal window may bring another outside of that window.
[[File:Mrr.png|thumb|239x239px]]

==== Machine Limitations ====
An important and often overlooked part of dialing in your speeds and feeds is the capability of the machine itself. Some machines have weaker spindles or slower axes than others, and settings that work on one machine may not on another. To find the power requirement of a certain operation, first we need to determine the Material Removal Rate (MRR) which typically has units of cu in/min. Once the MRR is known, divide it by the material's K factor, which represents the MRR that can be acheived by 1HP and is a function of the material hardness.

Another factor of the machine that's less understood is rigiditiy. This refers to how stiff all the joints and connections in the machine are, as well as how much backlash the motors have and the integrity of the work holding method. Any part of the machine or setup that's less rigid than it should be is a potential source of vibration, which can lead to tool chatter, higher wear on the tool and internal parts, poor surface finishes and low tolerances. Therefore, it's important to make your setup as rigid as possible and adjust your feeds and speeds as needed. Although it may seem counter-intuitive, generally it actually helps to go faster to mitigate vibration<ref>Sandvik Coromant. (n.d.). ''Milling vibration''. <nowiki>https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-us/knowledge/milling/vibration</nowiki></ref>.

==== Tool Geometry, Materials, and Coatings ====
While most of the above calculations have been based on solely the work material, it is also important to consider the tool itself. Choosing the right cutting tool material is essential for machining efficiency, requiring a balance of hardness, toughness, and resistance to wear and heat. Materials like High-Speed Steel (HSS), carbide, ceramics, and silicon nitride each offer advantages based on machining conditions. Tool geometry and coatings such as CVD and PVD also play key roles in performance by affecting chip flow, wear resistance, and toughness. While premium tooling may slightly increase costs, it enables higher feeds and speeds, significantly boosting material removal rates and reducing cycle times—often far outweighing the added expense.<ref>'''Hess, E.''' (2024, May). ''Easy guide to cutting tool material selection''. CNC Cookbook. <nowiki>https://www.cnccookbook.com/cutting-tool-materials/</nowiki></ref>

== [[Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router|CNC Routers]] ==
<references />

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Grinders

2025-07-15T15:39:22Z

Eparkhouse:

This page contains information about the various types of grinders in Brunsfield.

== What is Grinding? ==
Grinding is a '''material removal process''' that uses a rotating abrasive tool — typically a '''grinding wheel or disc''' — to wear away unwanted material. Unlike cutting, grinding removes small chips from a workpiece using many tiny abrasive particles.

It is used to:

* '''Smooth rough surfaces'''

* '''Remove welds or mill scale'''

* '''Shape or bevel edges'''

* '''Prepare joints before welding'''

* '''Clean up welds after welding'''

Grinding is a '''fast, precise''', and '''versatile''' method for preparing or finishing metal surfaces.

== Required PPE ==
* Safety glasses AND face shield

* Welding gloves or work gloves

* Welding jacket or flame-resistant clothing

* Long pants, non-synthetic (e.g., cotton or denim)

* Steel-toe boots

* Hearing protection

== Handheld grinders ==
[[File:Grinder.jpg|thumb]]

=== Types of Grinding Wheels and Discs ===
'''1. Cutting Wheels (Cut-Off Discs)'''

* '''Thin (~1/16") and sharp'''
* Designed for slicing '''straight through metal'''
* '''Never use side pressure''' — they're brittle and can shatter
* Commonly used to cut tubing, sheet metal, or bolts

[[File:9-pc-4inch-angle-grinder-accessories-wood-marble-cutting-blade-original-imafy8weyayhgqhq.webp|thumb]]
'''2. Grinding Wheels'''

* '''Thicker (~1/4") and more robust'''
* Used to '''grind down welds''', remove rust or scale, or shape metal
* Designed for '''face grinding''' with moderate pressure
* Can remove a '''large amount of material quickly'''

'''3. Flap Discs'''

* Made of '''overlapping abrasive flaps''' on a disc
* Excellent for '''smoothing, blending, or deburring'''
* Gentler than grinding wheels, but still effective
* Useful for '''finishing work''' or shaping weld beads before paint or inspection

=== Hazards ===
* Flying sparks, hot metal fragments
* Wheel shattering or disintegration
* Fire risk from flammable materials
* Noise exposure and vibration
* Entanglement of clothing, hair, or jewelry

=== Pre-Operation Checklist ===
# '''Inspect tool and accessories:'''
## Ensure the grinder is in good working order (cords, switches, guards)
## Check for cracks or damage on the wheel/disc
## Position the guard shield yourself from sparks and debris.
# '''Wheel Selection:'''
## '''Cutting wheel''' – thin abrasive disc, used for slicing through metal
## '''Grinding wheel''' – thicker, used for surface grinding or weld removal
## '''Flap disc''' – layered sanding disc, used for smoothing or blending
# '''Secure the Workpiece:'''
## Clamp or hold material firmly
## Keep flammables clear of the grinding area
# '''Tool Setup:'''
## Use '''guard''' appropriate to the wheel type.
## Mount wheel securely, tighten with correct tool.

=== Operating Procedure ===

# '''Start-up:'''
## Stand to the side of the wheel on start-up
## Let the grinder reach full speed before contacting work
# '''During Use:'''
## Maintain a '''firm grip''' with both hands
## Use the correct angle:
## ~90° for cutting
## ~15–30° for grinding or flap discs
## Keep sparks directed '''away from yourself and others'''
## Avoid side pressure on cutting wheels
# '''Shut Down:'''
## Let the disc come to a '''complete stop''' before setting it down
## Unplug when changing accessories or leaving the station

=== Post-Use ===

* Clean the area of '''metal dust and debris'''
* Store the grinder and wheels '''in their respective drawers in the grinding cabinet'''
* Report any damage to '''shop staff immediately'''

=== 🚫Prohibited Actions🚫 ===

* '''Do NOT grind outside the welding bay'''
* '''Do NOT use a wheel that has been dropped or shows damage'''
* '''Do NOT remove guards'''
* '''Do NOT wear loose clothing, jewelry, or untied hair'''

== Die Grinders ==

=== What is a Die Grinder? ===
A '''die grinder''' is a handheld rotary tool used for '''precision grinding, sanding, polishing, deburring, and cutting'''. It spins small attachments — typically '''carbide burrs, grinding stones, flap wheels''', or '''abrasive drums''' — at very high speeds (often 20,000–30,000 RPM).
[[File:Cp74-series-pneumatic-die-grinders-from-chicago-pneumatic-feature-rapid-bur-changeover-1624558630.jpg|thumb]]
Die grinders come in '''electric''' and '''pneumatic (air-powered)''' versions. Pneumatic versions are most common in fabrication shops due to their lightweight and durability.

=== Common Uses in Metalworking ===

* Cleaning up welds in tight spots
* Deburring sharp edges or holes
* Grinding in corners or around complex geometry
* Surface prep in small areas
* Smoothing internal bores or notches

Die grinders are especially useful where angle grinders are '''too large or aggressive'''.

=== Hazards ===

* High-speed rotation of small tools
* Flying chips, sparks, or wire fragments
* Loose bits or mandrels at high RPM
* Air hose whip
* Vibration and noise

[[File:Equipment-DieGrinder-Norton-Kit-lines-width-1500px-gigapixel-studio-studio.jpg|thumb]]

=== Pre-Operation Checklist ===

# '''Inspect the Die Grinder:'''
## Check tool body, trigger, and air hose for damage
## Ensure the guard (if applicable) is installed and secure
## Check collet tightness and condition
# '''Inspect the Bit/Attachment:'''
## Only use '''bits rated for high RPMs'''
## Do '''not use damaged, bent, or worn tools'''
## Ensure the bit is inserted to full depth and '''securely tightened'''
# '''Setup:'''
## Ensure Air hose is '''secured and in good condition.'''
## Clamp the workpiece or ensure it is fully secured
## Keep '''bystanders clear''' and flammable materials away

=== Operating Procedure ===

# '''Start-Up:'''
## Hold the tool '''firmly with two hands''' (if possible)
## Let it reach full speed before contacting the material
# '''During Use:'''
## Use '''light pressure''' — let the tool do the work
## Keep a stable stance, and avoid awkward or strained positions
## Maintain control if tool catches or kicks
## Keep '''cords and air hoses''' away from the spinning bit
# '''Shut Down:'''
## Release the trigger and wait for the tool to '''fully stop'''
## Disconnect '''air/power''' before changing bits or leaving the tool unattended

=== Post-Use ===

* Clean up metal debris and dust
* Store attachments in designated bins
* Hang hoses and cords properly
* Report damage or worn tools to shop staff

=== 🚫Prohibited Actions🚫 ===

* '''Do NOT use attachments not rated for high RPMs'''
* '''Do NOT use die grinders outside of the welding bay'''
* '''Do NOT operate without both hands on tool when required'''
* '''Do NOT grind in a way that directs sparks at people, hoses, or cables'''
* '''Do NOT modify bits or use makeshift attachments'''

== Pedestal Grinder ==
[[File:Pedeta.jpg|thumb]]
The pedestal grinder is a pair of large grinding wheels mounted at hip height in the welding bay in Brunsfield. One wheel is more abrasive than the other, but both are used to remove large amounts of material from metal workpieces.

=== Pre-Use Safety Checklist ===

* Tool rests set within '''1/8”''' of wheel
* Spark guards in position
* Wheel not cracked or damaged (ring test if unsure)
* Shield and work light functional
* Area is clean and dry

=== Operating Instructions ===
# '''Start-Up'''
## Stand to '''side''' of wheels during start-up.
## Let wheels come up to full speed (~15 seconds).
## Never grind on the side of the wheel.
# '''Grinding'''
## Hold workpiece '''firmly with both hands'''.
## Maintain a firm grip and '''light pressure'''.
## Use '''cooling breaks''' to avoid overheating metal.
## Use the full face of the wheel to prevent wear grooves.
# '''Tool Rest Use'''
## Support work on the '''tool rest''', not freehand.
## Keep rest adjusted close to wheel to prevent jamming.

[[File:5f3d830d9a1609efd1fd1e64_Bench_Grinder_Safety_(1).jpg|thumb]]

=== Post-Use Procedure ===

* Turn off grinder, '''wait for full stop'''.
* Clean surrounding area with brush or vacuum.
* Log any damage or unusual behavior.
* Never leave machine running unattended.

=== 🚫Prohibited Actions🚫 ===

* DO NOT wear gloves of any kind while using the pedestal grinder.
* NO ALUMINUM is to be used on the grinder. The soft metal will clog the wheel and ruin it.
* Keep the workpiece firmly against the support at all times.
* Use ear protections, this machine is very loud.

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Stick Welding

2025-07-14T18:21:43Z

Eparkhouse:

=== About ===
Stick welding, or Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), is a versatile and widely used welding process that uses a consumable electrode coated in flux to lay the weld. It is known for its simplicity and effectiveness in outdoor or windy conditions, making it ideal for construction, repair, and heavy steel structures.

=== No torch ===
Instead of a torch, stick welding uses a solid rod clamped in a stinger, which is a conductive clamp with grooves to hold the rod. The rod serves a triple purpose; it acts as the electrode by carrying current from the stinger to the workpiece, serves as filler material to fill the weld, and is covered in flux which vaporizes to become the shielding gas.

There are different kinds of rods for different purposes. The most common are listed below.

* 7018 is the most common all-purpose rod

* 6010/6011 are both very high strength, used for heavy duty applications

Many industrial processes will use a combination of 6010 for the root, and 7018 for the fill and cap.

=== Machine setup ===

* Plug in, turn on, connect ground clamp

* No gas needed because of flux

* No foot pedal either

==== Settings ====

* Depending on the electrode being used, you may need to flip the polarity
** Some rods run only DCEN, only DCEP, or only AC, some run a combination of the three
** Direct current electrode negative (DCEN) means the electrode is connected to the negative terminal of the machine and the ground connect to the positive
** And vice versa for DCEP

* Make sure the correct process and output is selected
** Process: stick
** Output: on
** Adjust: DIG at ~30-50%
** All other settings should be default or off

* DO NOT put a rod in the stinger until you are ready to weld
** As soon as the ground clamp is connected, the stinger is LIVE
** If you leave a rod in the stinger, it will spark every time it touches the table

* Set amperage depending on rod rather than material thickness

* For 1/8” 7018 rod on 1/8” material, start at 110A and increase as needed

[[File:Stick_Welding_Settings.png|thumb]]

* As you can see in the chart, the rod size depends on the material size, and then the amperage depends on the rod size

* Bigger rods have more penetration

==== Quick-Start Recipe ====
For cold rolled AISI 1018 1/8" plate:

* Amperage: 85-95A
* Polarity: DC
* Process: Stick
* Output: On
* Adjust: DIG 30-35%

This recipe should provide adequate penetration and good arc starting without too much sticking. If the rod is sticking on starts, decrease the DIG setting. If the base metal is melting completely through, decrease the amperage.

=== Technique ===

==== Before starting ====

* Find a comfortable position
** Use scrap, clamps, extra gloves etc to make an elbow/wrist rest
** Beware that your rod will shrink as you weld, account for that in your positioning
** Thumb to pinky

[[File:Thumb_to_pink.png|thumb]]

* Make sure your piece is clean, free of slag
** Have a chipping hammer and wire brush on hand
** Angle grinders or wire wheels can be handy too for really gross parts

* Make sure you have the right size rod
** Don't use a 5/32” rod on 0.065” thick material, it’ll go right through

==== Starting the weld ====

* Stick welding is usually scratch start (like striking a match)

* Scratch the tip of the electrode against the piece to start the flow of current, lift off to create the arc
** Scratching helps to avoid sticking your rod, and to remove bits of slag or flux that may be stuck to the end of the rod
** Scratch on a clean area, ahead of where you want to weld so you cover the arc strike

* Once the arc is started, don’t pull away too far!!! Arc length is crucial
** Too far away (long-arcing) will cause porosity, undercut, unstable arc
** Short-arcing will smoother the weld, rod will stick, poke holes
** But too short is better than too long

* Rod angle should generally be close to the middle of the two faces being joined
** Meaning 45deg for t joint, 90deg for butt joint etc ('''work angle''')
** Also using a slight (10-20deg) lead angle ie “dragging” the tip of the rod, to avoid pushing slag into the weld puddle ('''travel angle''')

* Make a tack weld at either end/on either side before doing the full bead, same as with MIG/TIG
** Once the tack is made, you have to “tie” it in to the bead
** Back-track to cover your tack before proceeding to the full bead
** This will avoid pinholes, undercut, bad toe lines etc

==== Finishing the weld ====

* At the end of the bead, “snap” the rod off
** Not snap as in break, more like a whip motion
** This will kill the arc quickly, rather than getting porosity from long-arcing as you pull away slowly (not good)
** This will also toss off any slag or molten metal from the end of the rod, makes the next restart easier

* Chip away any slag, wire brush any rust or spatter before starting the next bead
** Always easier to weld a clean part
Watch the linked video [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUQmylYpzNI&ab_channel=TimWelds here] for more info on stick welding technique.

Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/CNC Training

2025-07-14T17:42:00Z

Eparkhouse:

Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/CNC Training

2025-07-14T17:31:40Z

Eparkhouse:

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Stick Welding

2025-07-09T20:15:27Z

Eparkhouse: /* Settings */

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Stick Welding

2025-07-09T19:12:02Z

Eparkhouse: /* Settings */

=== About ===
Stick welding, or Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), is a versatile and widely used welding process that uses a consumable electrode coated in flux to lay the weld. It is known for its simplicity and effectiveness in outdoor or windy conditions, making it ideal for construction, repair, and heavy steel structures.

=== No torch ===
Instead of a torch, stick welding uses a solid rod clamped in a stinger, which is a conductive clamp with grooves to hold the rod. The rod serves a triple purpose; it acts as the electrode by carrying current from the stinger to the workpiece, serves as filler material to fill the weld, and is covered in flux which vaporizes to become the shielding gas.

There are different kinds of rods for different purposes. The most common are listed below.

* 7018 is the most common all-purpose rod

* 6010/6011 are both very high strength, used for heavy duty applications

Many industrial processes will use a combination of 6010 for the root, and 7018 for the fill and cap.

=== Machine setup ===

* Plug in, turn on, connect ground clamp

* No gas needed because of flux

* No foot pedal either

==== Settings ====

* Depending on the electrode being used, you may need to flip the polarity
** Some rods run only DCEN, only DCEP, or only AC, some run a combination of the three
** Direct current electrode negative (DCEN) means the electrode is connected to the negative terminal of the machine and the ground connect to the positive
** And vice versa for DCEP

* Make sure the correct process and output is selected
** Process: stick
** Output: on
** Adjust: DIG at ~30-50%
** All other settings should be default or off

* DO NOT put a rod in the stinger until you are ready to weld
** As soon as the ground clamp is connected, the stinger is LIVE
** If you leave a rod in the stinger, it will spark every time it touches the table

* Set amperage depending on rod rather than material thickness

* For 1/8” 7018 rod on 1/8” material, start at 110A and increase as needed

[[File:Stick_Welding_Settings.png|thumb]]

* As you can see in the chart, the rod size depends on the material size, and then the amperage depends on the rod size

* Bigger rods have more penetration

=== Technique ===

==== Before starting ====

* Find a comfortable position
** Use scrap, clamps, extra gloves etc to make an elbow/wrist rest
** Beware that your rod will shrink as you weld, account for that in your positioning
** Thumb to pinky

[[File:Thumb_to_pink.png|thumb]]

* Make sure your piece is clean, free of slag
** Have a chipping hammer and wire brush on hand
** Angle grinders or wire wheels can be handy too for really gross parts

* Make sure you have the right size rod
** Don't use a 5/32” rod on 0.065” thick material, it’ll go right through

==== Starting the weld ====

* Stick welding is usually scratch start (like striking a match)

* Scratch the tip of the electrode against the piece to start the flow of current, lift off to create the arc
** Scratching helps to avoid sticking your rod, and to remove bits of slag or flux that may be stuck to the end of the rod
** Scratch on a clean area, ahead of where you want to weld so you cover the arc strike

* Once the arc is started, don’t pull away too far!!! Arc length is crucial
** Too far away (long-arcing) will cause porosity, undercut, unstable arc
** Short-arcing will smoother the weld, rod will stick, poke holes
** But too short is better than too long

* Rod angle should generally be close to the middle of the two faces being joined
** Meaning 45deg for t joint, 90deg for butt joint etc ('''work angle''')
** Also using a slight (10-20deg) lead angle ie “dragging” the tip of the rod, to avoid pushing slag into the weld puddle ('''travel angle''')

* Make a tack weld at either end/on either side before doing the full bead, same as with MIG/TIG
** Once the tack is made, you have to “tie” it in to the bead
** Back-track to cover your tack before proceeding to the full bead
** This will avoid pinholes, undercut, bad toe lines etc

==== Finishing the weld ====

* At the end of the bead, “snap” the rod off
** Not snap as in break, more like a whip motion
** This will kill the arc quickly, rather than getting porosity from long-arcing as you pull away slowly (not good)
** This will also toss off any slag or molten metal from the end of the rod, makes the next restart easier

* Chip away any slag, wire brush any rust or spatter before starting the next bead
** Always easier to weld a clean part

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding

2025-07-09T18:17:27Z

Eparkhouse: /* Stick Welding */

== About ==
Welding is a fabrication process where two or more pieces of metal are joined together using heat. This process creates a solid connection by melting the materials and allowing them to cool and fuse. Welding is a common method for creating durable joints in various applications, including manufacturing and repair.

There are three main categories of welding processes; Arc welding, Gas welding, and Resistance welding. MIG, TIG, Stick, and Plasma cutting fall under arc welding processes. Oxyfuel welding is the most common gas welding process, and spot welding is the most common resistance process.

Arc welding works by conducting a current from the electrode to the workpiece, and then lifting the electrode to force the current to jump through the air. Since air is a strong insulator, the resistance causes extreme heat which then melts the workpiece. Think of this like a miniature lightning bolt.

Gas welding uses a flammable gas as fuel mixed with oxygen to make a hot flame which melts the workpiece. Once molten, filler material can be added to fuze pieces to each other. The Brunsfield Center does not have any gas welding equipment.

Resistance welding uses pointed electrodes to pinch the individual pieces together, and the small area of contact creates a point of low voltage and high current which heats, melts, and fuzes the parts together.

For more resources on welding, visit the following YouTube channels:

[https://www.youtube.com/@weldingtipsandtricks Welding Tips and Tricks]

[https://www.youtube.com/@Welddotcom Weld.com]

'''Always remember to stop welding 30min before closure of shop''' to make sure you have time to clean up after yourself and stow the machine properly. Make sure the machine is unplugged and the gas valve is closed.

=== Different types of arc welding ===
MIG (Metal Inert Gas) aka GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding) is like a hot glue gun for metal, it's as easy as point and shoot. It has fixed settings and only one button, and is best for mild steel of small to medium thickness. The filler and electrode are the same wire, making the machine less complicated. Shielding gas, usually ferroline, comes from a bottle out the nozzle of the torch. MIG is most commonly found in automated factories, and as hobby or home use.

Stick aka SMAW (Shielded Metal Arc Welding) has no trigger or pedal, meaning the electrode is always live. Be aware of this between passes when laying the rod down, it can spark on its own. The filler and electrode are the same rod similar to MIG, except the rod is held in a conductive clamp called a stinger and not fed from the machine, so your hands need to move as the rod melts away. Stick welding rods have flux instead of shielding gas; the arc vaporizes the flux, creating its own shielding gas, while leaving a layer of slag on top of the weld to protect it as it cools. Always make sure to remove the slag before the next pass. Stick is most commonly found on pipelines and structural welds, it has very high penetrating power compared to MIG or TIG which is good for stuff that gets dirty, or has paint or coatings.

TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) aka GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) is the most complex process, but most versatile. It is best for aluminum, very small parts, and exotic metals. The torch is controlled by a remote, usually a foot pedal, which can vary amperage (heat) throughout the weld. Filler wire is separate from the torch, fed by hand, and you can even do a weld without adding any filler if you’re cool enough. Shielding gas, usually pure argon, comes from a bottle to the torch, same as for MIG. TIG welding is most commonly found in fabrication shops, aerospace applications, and the automotive industry.

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/MIG|MIG Welding]] ==

=== About ===
MIG (Metal Inert Gas) welding, also known as GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding), is a type of arc welding process in which a continuous solid wire electrode is fed through a welding gun and into the weld pool. The process uses a shielding gas, typically a mix of argon and <chem>CO2</chem>to protect the weld from contaminants in the atmosphere. MIG welding is widely used for its ease of use, speed, and adaptability to various metals.

=== How it works ===
In MIG welding, an electric arc forms between the wire electrode and the metal workpiece, heating them and causing them to melt and fuse. A motorized system feeds the wire at a controlled speed, while gas flows through the same gun to shield the weld.

* '''Wire electrode''': consumable, ER70S-6 for mild steel.
* '''Shielding gas''': Ferroline C25, 75% argon / 25% CO₂ for steel.
* '''Voltage and wire speed''': adjusted based on material thickness.

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|'''Metal Thickness'''
|'''Voltage'''
|'''Wire Speed (In/min)'''
|-
!'''1/2<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''29.5'''
!'''515'''
|-
!'''3/8<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''26.0'''
!'''475'''
|-
!'''1/4<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''21.0'''
!'''375'''
|-
!'''3/16<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''18.4'''
!'''265'''
|-
!'''1/8<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''17.4'''
!'''230'''
|-
!'''14ga.'''
!'''16.5'''
!'''190'''
|-
!'''18ga.'''
!'''15.8'''
!'''120'''
|}

=== Equipment Setup ===
Before turning on the welding machine, make sure that all safety measures are being followed. In particular, make sure all the proper PPE is being worn, nothing flammable is in the welding area, and close the curtains to protect others outised the welding area.

A simple procedure can be followed to properly start up the MIG welders.

# Passing gas
## Molten metal will oxidize more rapidly due to the heat and ruin the integrity of the weld. Inert “shielding” gas prevents this
## The cylinders need to be opened when welding
## Never overtighten or over open the valve on the cylinder
## Small knob on side of regulator controls flow
## Flow meter shows increase but not decrease in flow unless gas is released
## Purge gas line and adjust to 25cfh for MIG (marked line on MIG bottles)
## 25% co2 (ferroline c25) for MIG and 100% Argon for TIG
## Regulator will show how much gas is left in the cylinder
## If you run out of gas, ask a supervisor to change the bottle for you. '''DO NOT TRY TO CHANGE YOURSELF'''
# All about the settings
## MIG machine only has two settings; wire feed speed and voltage
## Chart above is on the machine or the door of the cabinet
# The insides
## The MIG welder has a cover on the side that holds the filler wire
## Students should ask a supervisor before changing the wire
## Tension adjustment knob and lever system (don’t play with it)
# The torch
## As you press the trigger on the torch the wire and gas feed out
## Clean spatter (about every 30 min) to prevent welding or notching nozzle
## Taking off the nozzle we can see the contact tip
# Staying grounded
## The ground needs to be attached in order for the electrical current to pass from the torch to your workpiece then back to the machine (closed circuit)
## MIG welding requires a very good ground therefore it is always better to clamp the ground clamp directly onto the workpiece if possible
## When clamping on the table, clamp as close to your workpiece as possible
# Ready to weld
## Positioning your body so that you are comfortable will make a significant difference in weld quality
## Position yourself so you can see what you are doing
## Warn others before welding to avoid flashburn (bright arc in eyes)
## Snip off excess wire, clear off the contact tip and nozzle
## No more than ½" stickout
## Do a “dry run” (trace your weld path with the torch) to make sure you can reach comfortably

=== Technique ===
[[File:Weld-bead-appearance-mig-settings.jpg|thumb|345x345px]]

* When MIG welding it is important to hold the torch a certain way in order to achieve the best results
** When welding a t joint or lap joint, it is recommended to hold the torch at a 45deg angle to the joint and use approximately a 5 to 15deg lead angle (ie pointing backwards to direction of travel)
** For flat or butt joints, hold the torch at 90deg to the surface and with 5-15deg lead angle
** Some kind of elbow rest can come in handy here—use some scrap and make your own!

* Slow and smooth movements are best
** Use two hands or rest your elbow/forearm on the table/rest to keep steady
** Stay consistent!

* Use shadows and reflections as landmarks to help keep a straight line
** Turn your helmet shade down a bit if you’re struggling to see

* Do a pattern that keeps the arc at the front of the puddle to get better heat penetration
** Zig zags are always good
** Welding right to left, do C’s like this: CCCCCCCCC so the point is ahead of the weld
** Left to right do it the other way : >>>>>>>>>>>>
** Loop di loops or figure 8’s

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG|TIG Welding]] ==

=== About ===
Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welding, also known as Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW), is a precise welding process that uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to produce the weld. Known for its high-quality, clean welds, TIG welding is commonly used on thin materials such as stainless steel and aluminum in industries requiring strong, visually appealing joints.

=== The TIG torch ===

==== Assembly ====

* Collet body screws into the front of the torch body
** Gas lens does the same thing, creates laminar flow for getting into tight spots

* Collet goes into the back of the collet body
** Notice slits on collet, acts like springs
** Inside of collet body is tapered, pinches the collet closed

* Ceramic gas cup screws on top of collet body

* Sharpened electrode goes in through the back of torch
** Grey paint: 2% ceriated is a good all-purpose electrode, ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals
** “rule of thumb” for stickout, half the width of your thumb from the cup to the tip of the elctrode

* Tail cap screws onto back of torch body, seals the collet and electrode

==== Spare parts ====
All internal parts are made of copper for its conductivity. Copper is very soft so be careful to never over-tighten anything when assembling the torche. All these parts get worn out over time, they will tarnish due to the heat, slowly losing its conductivity. Brand new parts are very shiny, bright red and conduct electricity very well; you will notice a more stable arc when you replace an old part with a new one.

There are also different sized parts for different applications. Thicker material requires more heat to weld, meaning a thicker electrode to conduct more current, thus needing larger collet and collet body, and more gas to shield, meaning a larger cup. On the other hand, thinner material requires less amperage, and when an electrode is too big for the amount of amperage the arc becomes unstable and difficult to start. Therefore, a smaller electrode, collet, and collet body should be installed, along with a smaller gas cup to concentrate the gas on the smaller weld pool.

==== Electrode ====
TIG welding uses a tungsten as an electrode. Tungsten has an extremely high melting point (3422C, 6191F), so when you weld the electrode gets hot but it doesn't melt. This means the electrode is non-consummable, it won’t last forever but it doesn’t melt and become part of the weld (unlike MIG where the electrode melts and becomes filler metal. This is a consumable electrode process)

The color of the electrode indicates the type of tungsten alloy. Some of the more common alloys include:

* Grey is 2% ceriated, good choice for all types of welding; providing good arc start and restart characteristics with no spitting. It is ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals.

* 2% lanthanated tungsten (color-coded blue) is a true all-purpose electrode, with excellent arc starting characteristics and the ability to transmit high current without spitting. It provides a stable arc at both high and low current, and works very well on all metals.

* Rare earth tungsten (chartreuse) has the very best low-current arc starting characteristics, and it can be used on all metals. This type is often preferred for automated welding.

* Zirconiated tungsten (white) is good for welding aluminum and magnesium alloys. It has high current-carrying capacity, and it provides better arc starts and stability than pure tungsten.

==== Sharpening your tungsten ====

* Make sure to use the left of the two small wheels, labeled for tungsten

* Wear gloves, it’ll get toasty

* Don't use pliers, not enough grip

* Hold the electrode in line with the wheel, pointing up against the rotation

* Want grind lines running towards the point to direct the current

* If it grabs the wheel, it’ll just push you away

* Holding it downward will pull you into the wheel and revoke your finger privileges

* Spin it slowly and constantly in your fingers

* Looking for a uniform cone, don’t want flat spots

* Aim for 30 degrees

* Break off the point

* Don't want any burrs to throw off our arc

* The flat end helps a little with penetration

==== Machine Setup ====

===== Starting the machine =====

* Plug in, flip power switch

* Open gas valve, set flow to 15-20CFH

* Need to have gas flowing to read flowmeter, press the pedal down

* Connect the ground clamp

* Set the pedal and torch in a comfortable position

===== Settings =====

====== Amperage ======
As a general rule of thumb, start by setting the amperage equivalent to the thickness of your part in thousandths of an inch, ie. 1A = 0.001". So for a 1/8" practice coupon, start out at 125A.

However, with more experience you will learn to play around with this setting to suit your particular style. For example, some people might set their amperage to 140A for 1/8" Aluminum to get an extra kick when starting their weld, even though they'll only use 50% of the pedal (70-80A) for the rest of the weld after it's started.

====== Polarity ======

* AC for Aluminum and Magnesium
** Electrode positive phase, electrons flowing from workpiece to electrode, blows through the back of the oxide layer
** Electrode negative phase, electrons flowing from the electrode to the workpiece, actually melts the pure aluminum inside to make a weld

* DC for all other metals

====== Process ======
This setting controls how the arc starts.

* HF impulse allows to press the pedal and start the arc without needing to touch the workpiece to start the flow of electricity

* Lift start requires you to touch the tungsten to the workpiece, press the pedal down, then lift off to start the arc

* Stick (scratch start) is when the electrode stays live at all times so start the arc as soon as you make contact

====== Output ======
This setting determines what activates the arc.

* Remote allows you to use a foot pedal or hand remote

* 2T hold acts like a toggle function

====== Pulser ======
Use this setting to periodically decrease the heat for smaller parts.

* PPS stands for pulses per second

* Peak time is how long each pulse is at max amperage as a percentage of the PPS

* Background amperage is the minimum amperage in between pulses

====== Sequence ======
Use this setting in conjunction with the 2T hold setting for when a remote (foot pedal) isn’t available or practical.

* Initial amperage is the amount of amps used to initiate the arc, usually based on electrode size

* Initial slope is how long it will take to go from initial A to your working amperage

* Final slope is how long it will take to decrease from working A to final A

* Final A is the amperage right before the arc cuts out

====== Adjust ======

* Preflow is how long the gas will flow before the weld starts, to clear out any impurities for the start

* Postflow is gas flow after the weld, to protect the weld and the electrode as they cool

* DIG is used for stick welding, prevents the electrode from sticking to the workpiece

====== Waveshape ======

* Balance changes how much cleaning actions happens to remove the Al oxide. Lower balance has more cleaning action

* Frequency changes the width of the AC arc. Higher frequency will have a tighter arc with more penetration

==== Technique ====

===== Before starting =====

* Make sure your tungsten is sharp and your filler rod is a decent length

* Stick your electrode out the same amount as the width of the cup

* Most joints will use twice the length of filler as the length of the joint

* Find a comfortable position. Being comfy is the fastest way to improve your welds

* Trace your path to make sure you can reach and see everything you need to

===== Starting the weld =====

* Position your torch so the tip of the electrode is ~1/8” from the surface of the workpiece. Never exceed ¼" (long arcing, poor gas coverage)

* Hold the torch at the correct angle

* 5-15deg lead angle in the plane parallel to the weld, meaning handle tilted back, electrode point in the direction of travel

* 90deg to the face of the weld, meaning vertical for flat welds or butt joints, 45deg from vertical for lap or T joints

* Apply the pedal slowly, develop the puddle

* Look for how the heat input affects the width of the puddle

* For joints, make a tack weld first. Start the arc in the middle of the gap to create a puddle on either side, increase the heat until they connect

* Use filler sparingly at first, make sure the base material fuses fully.

===== Make a bead =====

* Look for how filler input affects the height of the puddle

* Make sure to tie in to your tack or last bead, ie start with some overlap

* For joints, use a back-and-forth motion to connect the two pieces

* Use enough filler to avoid undercut (where the surface dips down)

===== Finishing the weld =====

* Finish the last ~¼" without filler to avoid a big glob at the end

* Make sure to go all the way over your tack or next bead

* Avoid pinholes, lack of fusion

* Slowly lift off pedal, hold torch over the weld

* Maintains gas coverage while the weld and electrode cool

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Stick Welding|Stick Welding]] ==

=== About ===
Stick welding, or Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), is a versatile and widely used welding process that uses a consumable electrode coated in flux to lay the weld. It is known for its simplicity and effectiveness in outdoor or windy conditions, making it ideal for construction, repair, and heavy steel structures.

=== No torch ===
Instead of a torch, stick welding uses a solid rod clamped in a stinger, which is a conductive clamp with grooves to hold the rod. The rod serves a triple purpose; it acts as the electrode by carrying current from the stinger to the workpiece, serves as filler material to fill the weld, and is covered in flux which vaporizes to become the shielding gas.

There are different kinds of rods for different purposes. The most common are listed below.

* 7018 is the most common all-purpose rod

* 6010/6011 are both very high strength, used for heavy duty applications

Many industrial processes will use a combination of 6010 for the root, and 7018 for the fill and cap.

=== Machine setup ===

* Plug in, turn on, connect ground clamp

* No gas needed because of flux

* No foot pedal either

==== Settings ====

* Depending on the electrode being used, you may need to flip the polarity
** Some rods run only DCEN, only DCEP, or only AC, some run a combination of the three
** Direct current electrode negative (DCEN) means the electrode is connected to the negative terminal of the machine and the ground connect to the positive
** And vice versa for DCEP

* Make sure the correct process and output is selected
** Process: stick
** Output: on
** Adjust: DIG
** All other settings should be default or off

* DO NOT put a rod in the stinger until you are ready to weld
** As soon as the ground clamp is connected, the stinger is LIVE
** If you leave a rod in the stinger, it will spark every time it touches the table

* Set amperage depending on rod rather than material thickness

* For 1/8” 7018 rod on 1/8” material, start at 110A and increase as needed

[[File:Stick_Welding_Settings.png|thumb]]

* As you can see in the chart, the rod size depends on the material size, and then the amperage depends on the rod size

* Bigger rods have more penetration

=== Technique ===

==== Before starting ====

* Find a comfortable position
** Use scrap, clamps, extra gloves etc to make an elbow/wrist rest
** Beware that your rod will shrink as you weld, account for that in your positioning
** Thumb to pinky

[[File:Thumb_to_pink.png|thumb]]

* Make sure your piece is clean, free of slag
** Have a chipping hammer and wire brush on hand
** Angle grinders or wire wheels can be handy too for really gross parts

* Make sure you have the right size rod
** Don't use a 5/32” rod on 0.065” thick material, it’ll go right through

==== Starting the weld ====

* Stick welding is usually scratch start (like striking a match)

* Scratch the tip of the electrode against the piece to start the flow of current, lift off to create the arc
** Scratching helps to avoid sticking your rod, and to remove bits of slag or flux that may be stuck to the end of the rod
** Scratch on a clean area, ahead of where you want to weld so you cover the arc strike

* Once the arc is started, don’t pull away too far!!! Arc length is crucial
** Too far away (long-arcing) will cause porosity, undercut, unstable arc
** Short-arcing will smoother the weld, rod will stick, poke holes
** But too short is better than too long

* Rod angle should generally be close to the middle of the two faces being joined
** Meaning 45deg for t joint, 90deg for butt joint etc ('''work angle''')
** Also using a slight (10-20deg) lead angle ie “dragging” the tip of the rod, to avoid pushing slag into the weld puddle ('''travel angle''')

* Make a tack weld at either end/on either side before doing the full bead, same as with MIG/TIG
** Once the tack is made, you have to “tie” it in to the bead
** Back-track to cover your tack before proceeding to the full bead
** This will avoid pinholes, undercut, bad toe lines etc

==== Finishing the weld ====

* At the end of the bead, “snap” the rod off
** Not snap as in break, more like a whip motion
** This will kill the arc quickly, rather than getting porosity from long-arcing as you pull away slowly (not good)
** This will also toss off any slag or molten metal from the end of the rod, makes the next restart easier

* Chip away any slag, wire brush any rust or spatter before starting the next bead
** Always easier to weld a clean part

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Spot Welding|Spot Welding]] ==

=== About ===
A '''spot welder''' is a type of resistance welding machine used to join two or more metal surfaces at small points by applying pressure and passing a strong electrical current through the metal. The heat generated by the electrical resistance at the interface of the workpieces causes them to melt and fuse. Spot welding is commonly used in the automotive industry, metal fabrication, and manufacturing of appliances.

=== Safety Considerations ===

* Risk of burns from hot metal and electrodes.

* Electrical hazards due to high current.

* Eye protection needed for sparks.

* Proper ventilation required to avoid inhalation of fumes.

=== Principle of Operation ===
Spot welding operates on the principle of '''Resistive Heating'''. Two copper alloy electrodes are used to clamp the workpieces together. A high-current, low-voltage electric pulse is then passed through the metals, typically for a few milliseconds. Because the current is concentrated at the point of contact and the resistance is highest there, the material heats and melts at that spot, forming a weld nugget.

=== Components ===
A typical spot welder consists of:

* '''Control System''': Regulates weld time, pressure, and current.

* '''Transformer''': Steps down voltage and increases current.

* '''Electrodes''': Copper alloy tips that conduct current and apply pressure.

* '''Tongs''': Provide leverage and spacing for the workpieces.

* '''Cooling System''': Often water-cooled to prevent overheating of electrodes.

=== Applications ===
Spot welders are widely used in:

* '''Automotive Manufacturing''': For joining body panels and frame components.

* '''Battery Packs''': To weld tabs on cylindrical and pouch-type battery cells.

* '''Sheet Metal Fabrication''': In appliances, cabinets, and enclosures.

* '''Aerospace and Electronics''': For precise, localized joining of components.

=== Advantages ===

* Fast and efficient for mass production.

* No need for filler material.

* Minimal heat-affected zone (HAZ).

* Consistent and repeatable weld quality with proper control.

=== Limitations ===

* Limited to thin sheet metals (typically less than 3 mm or 1/8” thick).

* Not suitable for non-conductive materials or thick components.

* Weld strength may vary with contamination or improper setup.

* Electrode wear requires regular maintenance.

* The MTC spot welder cannot weld aluminum since it requires higher current than the machine is rated for

=== Training and Operation ===
Spot welders are often rated as a '''Class 2 or 3 operation''' in machine shop environments like Brunsfield Center, meaning users require a brief training and oversight to safely perform welds. Training focuses on:

* PPE use (e.g., safety glasses, gloves)

* Setting weld time and current

* Electrode alignment

* Handling hot workpieces safely

To operate the spot welder, particular procedures must be followed to ensure safe and effective operation. Before use, make sure to have MIG welding gloves or pliers immediately available to handle the workpiece after welding and avoid burns.

* Turn the machine on, set the timer to the correct length of time
** For mild/galvanized steel, set the timer between 0.75 and 1.00 seconds
** For stainless steel, set the timer between 0.25 and 0.50 seconds
** Setting the timer too short will result in a cold joint and lack of fusion. Setting the timer too long will deform the material and cause the weld cross section to be smaller. Both result in a weak weld
** While some spot welders can weld aluminum, the MTC spot welder cannot. It does not have AC capability which aluminum requires to weld.

* Position the pieces to be welded between the tongs
** Make sure the pieces are aligned correctly relative to each other
** Make sure no part of the piece is touching any part of the tong other than the contact tip. This will split the current, causing the weld to not be as hot, which can cause lack of fusion
** For pieces more than 4” across, use a free hand to support the piece and prevent tipping
** Use a MIG glove to support the piece to avoid burns

* Hold the trigger for the full duration of the timer
** Failing to do so can result in a cold weld and lack of fusion
** The timer shuts the welder off automatically after it runs out; don’t worry about over-doing it

* Once the timer runs out, release the clamp and remove the workpiece
** DO NOT TOUCH with bare hands
** The piece will be hot, use pliers or gloves to handle until it cools
** Running the piece under the sink will cool it quickly, but the rapid change in temperature may cause cracks in the weld. For any joint that will be under load, allow to cool slowly

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Plasma Cutting|Plasma Cutting]] ==

=== About ===
[[File:Crossfire-85HD-Plasma-Cutter-Thick-Cut_941x630.jpg|thumb]]
The plasma gun uses as arc (like welding) coupled with a stream of compressed air to melt away metal using the torch. It can be used to cut thicker metals quickly, but leaves a rough surface finish.

Operating the plasma gun is very similar to a [[MIG]] welder. It is done in the welding bay in Brunsfield and require MIG training before operating. This is considered an advance manufacturing technology, '''please check in with a staff before commencing.'''

=== Operating Procedure ===

==== Preparation ====
* Ensure the welding curtains are fully closed around the cutting zone.
* Prepare your piece by marking your cuts and setting up a jig if repeated cuts are to be made.

==== Plasma Table ====
* Clear all items from the surface of the plasma table.
* Ensure both wheel casters are in the locked position.
* With the help of another person, lift open the lid of the table until it hangs down at the side. Lift from both front corners slowly and set the lid down gently.
* Pinching Hazard! The table lid is very heavy. Use caution and ask for hep if needed.

[[File:PremierPlasmaCNCSafetyKit.webp|thumb|330x330px]]

==== PPE Check ====
* Wear a welding helmet or plasma glasses, gloves, welding jacket, long (non-systhetic) pants that are tucked over your boots, and safety boots.
* Use hearing protection if required.
* Use an N-95 mask or respirator.

==== Setup and Power-On ====
* Connect the power cable to the back of the machine.
* Check the air pressure and power settings on the plasma cutter.
* Connect the air hose to the plasma cutter.
* Turn on the ventilation system.
* Clamp the ground lead securely to the workpiece.

[[File:Using-a-hand-held-plasma-cutter-plasma-cutting-sequence.jpg|thumb|475x475px]]

==== Cutting Operation ====
* Hold the torch perpendicular to the work surface at all times.
* Cut only above the open table, do not stand under the torch while cutting.
* Ensure nothing is in the way of your cut; the torch should slide smoothly along the surface of the piece.
* Begin the cut off of the work piece, then slowly move to cut through the metal.
* Maintain a steady speed, always allowing material to be blown out of the bottom of the cut.

==== Post-Cut Procedure ====
* Turn off power and disconnect the air supply.
* Let materials cool fully before handling them.
* Coil cables neatly and store equipment safely.
* Return all PPE to the cabinets

==== Clean-Up ====
* Clear metal debris.
* Ensure ventilation runs until fumes are dispersed.
* Using a second person, carefully close the lid of the plasma table. A piece of metal can be used as a shim while closing to ensure fingers aren’t pinched.
* Report any issues or damage.

The Brunsfield Center

2025-07-09T18:15:58Z

Eparkhouse: /* Manufacturing Technologies */

== About ==
To gain access to the Brunsfield Centre, uOttawa members (students or staff) must first complete training on the equipment at the Manufacturing Training Centre.

We encourage you to come talk to us about what you are trying to build and we will be happy to point you to the appropriate equipment and will help you get trained.

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Using the Shop|Using the Shop]] ==

=== Shop Rules ===
Some general rules for Brunsfield (STM 129):

* All users must complete the [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Basic Training|Basic Training]] before using any tools or machines in the shop.
* All users must '''Sign-in''' using their MakerRepo account.
* All users must wear '''safety glasses, long pants, and steel toes boots'''. Toe caps and safety glasses are readily available for those who do not have their own.
* '''Stay within your comfort zone!''' Brunsfield staff (wearing orange) are always there to help to get started or answer your questions.
* Always clean up after yourselves and put tools back in their place.

=== Sign-In Process ===
All Brunsfield and MTC users need to sign in & out of the space using their MakerRepo account. This can be linked with a student/employee card, or can be given manually.

There is a '''Tap-Box''' at the front desk of all of the spaces, simply tap your card on the box and once the light turns green, you're good to go.

A staff can help you link you account to a new card, or sign you in without a card.

It is the user's job to make an account on [https://https//makerepo.com/ MakerRepo] before visiting the spaces.

=== Buying Materials ===
Brunsfield keeps stock of various metals and composites that are left of from projects, and can sell them to shop users.

We also have a selection of '''Scrap Materials''' that are in marked bins in Brunsfield. These materials are '''free to use''' for any users.

Everything that is '''For Sale''' lives on the labelled rack at the back of the shop. All of our pricing is determined by our supplier [https://www.metalpros.com/ Metal Pros.]Simply navigate to their website and identify the geometry of the piece you are looking to purchase. Staff can also assist in determining cost of items.

From there, you will be directed to [https://makerstore.ca/ Makerstore] in order to pay for you material. Simply purchase the item "Brunsfield Bars" at whatever quantity is needed to cover your purchase.

Once a staff has confirmed your order, you're all set!

=== Placing an Order ===
Looking to outsource your project? Our skilled team can help by fabricating your parts for you. Contact us for further information.

=== Design Reviews ===

== [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings|Shop Trainings]] ==
The following trainings are offered in MTC or Brunsfield. More info can be found on the trainings page.
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Basic Training|Basic Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Mill Training|Mill Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Lathe Training|Lathe Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Welding Safety & MIG Trainig|Welding Safety & MIG Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/TIG Training|TIG Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/CNC Training|CNC Training]]

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Our Team|Our Team]] ==

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies|Manufacturing Technologies]] ==
Here is a list of the machines, tools, and processes available through the Brunsfield Center. Click on a specific section to learn more.

* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Mill|Mill]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Lathe|Lathe]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding|Welding Area]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/MIG|MIG]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG|TIG]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Stick Welding|Stick]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Plasma Cutting|Plasma cutting]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Grinders|Grinders]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Spot Welding|Spot Welder]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC|CNC machinery]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router|CNC Routers]]
** CNC Mills
** CNC Lathes
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Vertical Bandsaw|Vertical Band Saw]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Horizontal Bandsaw|Horizontal Band Saw]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Drill Press|Drill press]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Sheet Metal Brake|Sheet Metal Brake]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Sheet Metal Shear|Sheet Metal Shear]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Hand Tools|Hand Tools]]

* [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room|Wood Room]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Miter Saw|Miter Saw]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Panel Saw|Panel Saw]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Circular Saw|Circular Saw (Skillsaw)]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Jigsaw|Jigsaw]]

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies

2025-07-09T18:13:53Z

Eparkhouse:

Here is a list of the machines, tools, and processes available through the Brunsfield Center. Click on a specific section to learn more.

* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Mill|Mill]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Lathe|Lathe]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding|Welding Area]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/MIG|MIG]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG|TIG]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Stick Welding|Stick]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Plasma Cutting|Plasma cutting]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Grinders|Grinders]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Spot Welding|Spot Welder]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC|CNC machinery]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router|CNC Routers]]
** CNC Mills
** CNC Lathes
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Vertical Bandsaw|Vertical Band Saw]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Horizontal Bandsaw|Horizontal Band Saw]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Drill Press|Drill press]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Sheet Metal Brake|Sheet Metal Brake]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Sheet Metal Shear|Sheet Metal Shear]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Hand Tools|Hand Tools]]

* [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room|Wood Room]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Miter Saw|Miter Saw]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Panel Saw|Panel Saw]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Circular Saw|Circular Saw (Skillsaw)]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Jigsaw|Jigsaw]]

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies

2025-07-09T18:11:59Z

Eparkhouse:

Here is a list of the machines, tools, and processes available through the Brunsfield Center. Click on a specific section to learn more.

* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Mill|Mill]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Lathe|Lathe]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding|Welding Area]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/MIG|MIG]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG|TIG]]
** Stick
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Plasma Cutting|Plasma cutting]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Grinders|Grinders]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Spot Welding|Spot Welder]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC|CNC machinery]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router|CNC Routers]]
** CNC Mills
** CNC Lathes
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Vertical Bandsaw|Vertical Band Saw]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Horizontal Bandsaw|Horizontal Band Saw]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Drill Press|Drill press]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Sheet Metal Brake|Sheet Metal Brake]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Sheet Metal Shear|Sheet Metal Shear]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Hand Tools|Hand Tools]]

* [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room|Wood Room]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Miter Saw|Miter Saw]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Panel Saw|Panel Saw]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Circular Saw|Circular Saw (Skillsaw)]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Jigsaw|Jigsaw]]

The Brunsfield Center

2025-07-09T18:07:30Z

Eparkhouse: /* Manufacturing Technologies */

== About ==
To gain access to the Brunsfield Centre, uOttawa members (students or staff) must first complete training on the equipment at the Manufacturing Training Centre.

We encourage you to come talk to us about what you are trying to build and we will be happy to point you to the appropriate equipment and will help you get trained.

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Using the Shop|Using the Shop]] ==

=== Shop Rules ===
Some general rules for Brunsfield (STM 129):

* All users must complete the [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Basic Training|Basic Training]] before using any tools or machines in the shop.
* All users must '''Sign-in''' using their MakerRepo account.
* All users must wear '''safety glasses, long pants, and steel toes boots'''. Toe caps and safety glasses are readily available for those who do not have their own.
* '''Stay within your comfort zone!''' Brunsfield staff (wearing orange) are always there to help to get started or answer your questions.
* Always clean up after yourselves and put tools back in their place.

=== Sign-In Process ===
All Brunsfield and MTC users need to sign in & out of the space using their MakerRepo account. This can be linked with a student/employee card, or can be given manually.

There is a '''Tap-Box''' at the front desk of all of the spaces, simply tap your card on the box and once the light turns green, you're good to go.

A staff can help you link you account to a new card, or sign you in without a card.

It is the user's job to make an account on [https://https//makerepo.com/ MakerRepo] before visiting the spaces.

=== Buying Materials ===
Brunsfield keeps stock of various metals and composites that are left of from projects, and can sell them to shop users.

We also have a selection of '''Scrap Materials''' that are in marked bins in Brunsfield. These materials are '''free to use''' for any users.

Everything that is '''For Sale''' lives on the labelled rack at the back of the shop. All of our pricing is determined by our supplier [https://www.metalpros.com/ Metal Pros.]Simply navigate to their website and identify the geometry of the piece you are looking to purchase. Staff can also assist in determining cost of items.

From there, you will be directed to [https://makerstore.ca/ Makerstore] in order to pay for you material. Simply purchase the item "Brunsfield Bars" at whatever quantity is needed to cover your purchase.

Once a staff has confirmed your order, you're all set!

=== Placing an Order ===
Looking to outsource your project? Our skilled team can help by fabricating your parts for you. Contact us for further information.

=== Design Reviews ===

== [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings|Shop Trainings]] ==
The following trainings are offered in MTC or Brunsfield. More info can be found on the trainings page.
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Basic Training|Basic Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Mill Training|Mill Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Lathe Training|Lathe Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Welding Safety & MIG Trainig|Welding Safety & MIG Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/TIG Training|TIG Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/CNC Training|CNC Training]]

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Our Team|Our Team]] ==

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies|Manufacturing Technologies]] ==
Here is a list of the machines, tools, and processes available through the Brunsfield Center. Click on a specific section to learn more.

* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Mill|Mill]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Lathe|Lathe]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding|Welding Area]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/MIG|MIG]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG|TIG]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Stick|Stick]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Plasma Cutting|Plasma cutting]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Grinders|Grinders]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Spot Welding|Spot Welder]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC|CNC machinery]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router|CNC Routers]]
** CNC Mills
** CNC Lathes
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Vertical Bandsaw|Vertical Band Saw]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Horizontal Bandsaw|Horizontal Band Saw]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Drill Press|Drill press]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Sheet Metal Brake|Sheet Metal Brake]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Sheet Metal Shear|Sheet Metal Shear]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Hand Tools|Hand Tools]]

* [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room|Wood Room]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Miter Saw|Miter Saw]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Panel Saw|Panel Saw]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Circular Saw|Circular Saw (Skillsaw)]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Jigsaw|Jigsaw]]

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding

2025-07-09T18:01:06Z

Eparkhouse:

== About ==
Welding is a fabrication process where two or more pieces of metal are joined together using heat. This process creates a solid connection by melting the materials and allowing them to cool and fuse. Welding is a common method for creating durable joints in various applications, including manufacturing and repair.

There are three main categories of welding processes; Arc welding, Gas welding, and Resistance welding. MIG, TIG, Stick, and Plasma cutting fall under arc welding processes. Oxyfuel welding is the most common gas welding process, and spot welding is the most common resistance process.

Arc welding works by conducting a current from the electrode to the workpiece, and then lifting the electrode to force the current to jump through the air. Since air is a strong insulator, the resistance causes extreme heat which then melts the workpiece. Think of this like a miniature lightning bolt.

Gas welding uses a flammable gas as fuel mixed with oxygen to make a hot flame which melts the workpiece. Once molten, filler material can be added to fuze pieces to each other. The Brunsfield Center does not have any gas welding equipment.

Resistance welding uses pointed electrodes to pinch the individual pieces together, and the small area of contact creates a point of low voltage and high current which heats, melts, and fuzes the parts together.

For more resources on welding, visit the following YouTube channels:

[https://www.youtube.com/@weldingtipsandtricks Welding Tips and Tricks]

[https://www.youtube.com/@Welddotcom Weld.com]

'''Always remember to stop welding 30min before closure of shop''' to make sure you have time to clean up after yourself and stow the machine properly. Make sure the machine is unplugged and the gas valve is closed.

=== Different types of arc welding ===
MIG (Metal Inert Gas) aka GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding) is like a hot glue gun for metal, it's as easy as point and shoot. It has fixed settings and only one button, and is best for mild steel of small to medium thickness. The filler and electrode are the same wire, making the machine less complicated. Shielding gas, usually ferroline, comes from a bottle out the nozzle of the torch. MIG is most commonly found in automated factories, and as hobby or home use.

Stick aka SMAW (Shielded Metal Arc Welding) has no trigger or pedal, meaning the electrode is always live. Be aware of this between passes when laying the rod down, it can spark on its own. The filler and electrode are the same rod similar to MIG, except the rod is held in a conductive clamp called a stinger and not fed from the machine, so your hands need to move as the rod melts away. Stick welding rods have flux instead of shielding gas; the arc vaporizes the flux, creating its own shielding gas, while leaving a layer of slag on top of the weld to protect it as it cools. Always make sure to remove the slag before the next pass. Stick is most commonly found on pipelines and structural welds, it has very high penetrating power compared to MIG or TIG which is good for stuff that gets dirty, or has paint or coatings.

TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) aka GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) is the most complex process, but most versatile. It is best for aluminum, very small parts, and exotic metals. The torch is controlled by a remote, usually a foot pedal, which can vary amperage (heat) throughout the weld. Filler wire is separate from the torch, fed by hand, and you can even do a weld without adding any filler if you’re cool enough. Shielding gas, usually pure argon, comes from a bottle to the torch, same as for MIG. TIG welding is most commonly found in fabrication shops, aerospace applications, and the automotive industry.

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/MIG|MIG Welding]] ==

=== About ===
MIG (Metal Inert Gas) welding, also known as GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding), is a type of arc welding process in which a continuous solid wire electrode is fed through a welding gun and into the weld pool. The process uses a shielding gas, typically a mix of argon and <chem>CO2</chem>to protect the weld from contaminants in the atmosphere. MIG welding is widely used for its ease of use, speed, and adaptability to various metals.

=== How it works ===
In MIG welding, an electric arc forms between the wire electrode and the metal workpiece, heating them and causing them to melt and fuse. A motorized system feeds the wire at a controlled speed, while gas flows through the same gun to shield the weld.

* '''Wire electrode''': consumable, ER70S-6 for mild steel.
* '''Shielding gas''': Ferroline C25, 75% argon / 25% CO₂ for steel.
* '''Voltage and wire speed''': adjusted based on material thickness.

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|'''Metal Thickness'''
|'''Voltage'''
|'''Wire Speed (In/min)'''
|-
!'''1/2<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''29.5'''
!'''515'''
|-
!'''3/8<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''26.0'''
!'''475'''
|-
!'''1/4<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''21.0'''
!'''375'''
|-
!'''3/16<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''18.4'''
!'''265'''
|-
!'''1/8<nowiki>''</nowiki>'''
!'''17.4'''
!'''230'''
|-
!'''14ga.'''
!'''16.5'''
!'''190'''
|-
!'''18ga.'''
!'''15.8'''
!'''120'''
|}

=== Equipment Setup ===
Before turning on the welding machine, make sure that all safety measures are being followed. In particular, make sure all the proper PPE is being worn, nothing flammable is in the welding area, and close the curtains to protect others outised the welding area.

A simple procedure can be followed to properly start up the MIG welders.

# Passing gas
## Molten metal will oxidize more rapidly due to the heat and ruin the integrity of the weld. Inert “shielding” gas prevents this
## The cylinders need to be opened when welding
## Never overtighten or over open the valve on the cylinder
## Small knob on side of regulator controls flow
## Flow meter shows increase but not decrease in flow unless gas is released
## Purge gas line and adjust to 25cfh for MIG (marked line on MIG bottles)
## 25% co2 (ferroline c25) for MIG and 100% Argon for TIG
## Regulator will show how much gas is left in the cylinder
## If you run out of gas, ask a supervisor to change the bottle for you. '''DO NOT TRY TO CHANGE YOURSELF'''
# All about the settings
## MIG machine only has two settings; wire feed speed and voltage
## Chart above is on the machine or the door of the cabinet
# The insides
## The MIG welder has a cover on the side that holds the filler wire
## Students should ask a supervisor before changing the wire
## Tension adjustment knob and lever system (don’t play with it)
# The torch
## As you press the trigger on the torch the wire and gas feed out
## Clean spatter (about every 30 min) to prevent welding or notching nozzle
## Taking off the nozzle we can see the contact tip
# Staying grounded
## The ground needs to be attached in order for the electrical current to pass from the torch to your workpiece then back to the machine (closed circuit)
## MIG welding requires a very good ground therefore it is always better to clamp the ground clamp directly onto the workpiece if possible
## When clamping on the table, clamp as close to your workpiece as possible
# Ready to weld
## Positioning your body so that you are comfortable will make a significant difference in weld quality
## Position yourself so you can see what you are doing
## Warn others before welding to avoid flashburn (bright arc in eyes)
## Snip off excess wire, clear off the contact tip and nozzle
## No more than ½" stickout
## Do a “dry run” (trace your weld path with the torch) to make sure you can reach comfortably

=== Technique ===
[[File:Weld-bead-appearance-mig-settings.jpg|thumb|345x345px]]

* When MIG welding it is important to hold the torch a certain way in order to achieve the best results
** When welding a t joint or lap joint, it is recommended to hold the torch at a 45deg angle to the joint and use approximately a 5 to 15deg lead angle (ie pointing backwards to direction of travel)
** For flat or butt joints, hold the torch at 90deg to the surface and with 5-15deg lead angle
** Some kind of elbow rest can come in handy here—use some scrap and make your own!

* Slow and smooth movements are best
** Use two hands or rest your elbow/forearm on the table/rest to keep steady
** Stay consistent!

* Use shadows and reflections as landmarks to help keep a straight line
** Turn your helmet shade down a bit if you’re struggling to see

* Do a pattern that keeps the arc at the front of the puddle to get better heat penetration
** Zig zags are always good
** Welding right to left, do C’s like this: CCCCCCCCC so the point is ahead of the weld
** Left to right do it the other way : >>>>>>>>>>>>
** Loop di loops or figure 8’s

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG|TIG Welding]] ==

=== About ===
Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welding, also known as Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW), is a precise welding process that uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to produce the weld. Known for its high-quality, clean welds, TIG welding is commonly used on thin materials such as stainless steel and aluminum in industries requiring strong, visually appealing joints.

=== The TIG torch ===

==== Assembly ====

* Collet body screws into the front of the torch body
** Gas lens does the same thing, creates laminar flow for getting into tight spots

* Collet goes into the back of the collet body
** Notice slits on collet, acts like springs
** Inside of collet body is tapered, pinches the collet closed

* Ceramic gas cup screws on top of collet body

* Sharpened electrode goes in through the back of torch
** Grey paint: 2% ceriated is a good all-purpose electrode, ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals
** “rule of thumb” for stickout, half the width of your thumb from the cup to the tip of the elctrode

* Tail cap screws onto back of torch body, seals the collet and electrode

==== Spare parts ====
All internal parts are made of copper for its conductivity. Copper is very soft so be careful to never over-tighten anything when assembling the torche. All these parts get worn out over time, they will tarnish due to the heat, slowly losing its conductivity. Brand new parts are very shiny, bright red and conduct electricity very well; you will notice a more stable arc when you replace an old part with a new one.

There are also different sized parts for different applications. Thicker material requires more heat to weld, meaning a thicker electrode to conduct more current, thus needing larger collet and collet body, and more gas to shield, meaning a larger cup. On the other hand, thinner material requires less amperage, and when an electrode is too big for the amount of amperage the arc becomes unstable and difficult to start. Therefore, a smaller electrode, collet, and collet body should be installed, along with a smaller gas cup to concentrate the gas on the smaller weld pool.

==== Electrode ====
TIG welding uses a tungsten as an electrode. Tungsten has an extremely high melting point (3422C, 6191F), so when you weld the electrode gets hot but it doesn't melt. This means the electrode is non-consummable, it won’t last forever but it doesn’t melt and become part of the weld (unlike MIG where the electrode melts and becomes filler metal. This is a consumable electrode process)

The color of the electrode indicates the type of tungsten alloy. Some of the more common alloys include:

* Grey is 2% ceriated, good choice for all types of welding; providing good arc start and restart characteristics with no spitting. It is ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals.

* 2% lanthanated tungsten (color-coded blue) is a true all-purpose electrode, with excellent arc starting characteristics and the ability to transmit high current without spitting. It provides a stable arc at both high and low current, and works very well on all metals.

* Rare earth tungsten (chartreuse) has the very best low-current arc starting characteristics, and it can be used on all metals. This type is often preferred for automated welding.

* Zirconiated tungsten (white) is good for welding aluminum and magnesium alloys. It has high current-carrying capacity, and it provides better arc starts and stability than pure tungsten.

==== Sharpening your tungsten ====

* Make sure to use the left of the two small wheels, labeled for tungsten

* Wear gloves, it’ll get toasty

* Don't use pliers, not enough grip

* Hold the electrode in line with the wheel, pointing up against the rotation

* Want grind lines running towards the point to direct the current

* If it grabs the wheel, it’ll just push you away

* Holding it downward will pull you into the wheel and revoke your finger privileges

* Spin it slowly and constantly in your fingers

* Looking for a uniform cone, don’t want flat spots

* Aim for 30 degrees

* Break off the point

* Don't want any burrs to throw off our arc

* The flat end helps a little with penetration

==== Machine Setup ====

===== Starting the machine =====

* Plug in, flip power switch

* Open gas valve, set flow to 15-20CFH

* Need to have gas flowing to read flowmeter, press the pedal down

* Connect the ground clamp

* Set the pedal and torch in a comfortable position

===== Settings =====

====== Amperage ======
As a general rule of thumb, start by setting the amperage equivalent to the thickness of your part in thousandths of an inch, ie. 1A = 0.001". So for a 1/8" practice coupon, start out at 125A.

However, with more experience you will learn to play around with this setting to suit your particular style. For example, some people might set their amperage to 140A for 1/8" Aluminum to get an extra kick when starting their weld, even though they'll only use 50% of the pedal (70-80A) for the rest of the weld after it's started.

====== Polarity ======

* AC for Aluminum and Magnesium
** Electrode positive phase, electrons flowing from workpiece to electrode, blows through the back of the oxide layer
** Electrode negative phase, electrons flowing from the electrode to the workpiece, actually melts the pure aluminum inside to make a weld

* DC for all other metals

====== Process ======
This setting controls how the arc starts.

* HF impulse allows to press the pedal and start the arc without needing to touch the workpiece to start the flow of electricity

* Lift start requires you to touch the tungsten to the workpiece, press the pedal down, then lift off to start the arc

* Stick (scratch start) is when the electrode stays live at all times so start the arc as soon as you make contact

====== Output ======
This setting determines what activates the arc.

* Remote allows you to use a foot pedal or hand remote

* 2T hold acts like a toggle function

====== Pulser ======
Use this setting to periodically decrease the heat for smaller parts.

* PPS stands for pulses per second

* Peak time is how long each pulse is at max amperage as a percentage of the PPS

* Background amperage is the minimum amperage in between pulses

====== Sequence ======
Use this setting in conjunction with the 2T hold setting for when a remote (foot pedal) isn’t available or practical.

* Initial amperage is the amount of amps used to initiate the arc, usually based on electrode size

* Initial slope is how long it will take to go from initial A to your working amperage

* Final slope is how long it will take to decrease from working A to final A

* Final A is the amperage right before the arc cuts out

====== Adjust ======

* Preflow is how long the gas will flow before the weld starts, to clear out any impurities for the start

* Postflow is gas flow after the weld, to protect the weld and the electrode as they cool

* DIG is used for stick welding, prevents the electrode from sticking to the workpiece

====== Waveshape ======

* Balance changes how much cleaning actions happens to remove the Al oxide. Lower balance has more cleaning action

* Frequency changes the width of the AC arc. Higher frequency will have a tighter arc with more penetration

==== Technique ====

===== Before starting =====

* Make sure your tungsten is sharp and your filler rod is a decent length

* Stick your electrode out the same amount as the width of the cup

* Most joints will use twice the length of filler as the length of the joint

* Find a comfortable position. Being comfy is the fastest way to improve your welds

* Trace your path to make sure you can reach and see everything you need to

===== Starting the weld =====

* Position your torch so the tip of the electrode is ~1/8” from the surface of the workpiece. Never exceed ¼" (long arcing, poor gas coverage)

* Hold the torch at the correct angle

* 5-15deg lead angle in the plane parallel to the weld, meaning handle tilted back, electrode point in the direction of travel

* 90deg to the face of the weld, meaning vertical for flat welds or butt joints, 45deg from vertical for lap or T joints

* Apply the pedal slowly, develop the puddle

* Look for how the heat input affects the width of the puddle

* For joints, make a tack weld first. Start the arc in the middle of the gap to create a puddle on either side, increase the heat until they connect

* Use filler sparingly at first, make sure the base material fuses fully.

===== Make a bead =====

* Look for how filler input affects the height of the puddle

* Make sure to tie in to your tack or last bead, ie start with some overlap

* For joints, use a back-and-forth motion to connect the two pieces

* Use enough filler to avoid undercut (where the surface dips down)

===== Finishing the weld =====

* Finish the last ~¼" without filler to avoid a big glob at the end

* Make sure to go all the way over your tack or next bead

* Avoid pinholes, lack of fusion

* Slowly lift off pedal, hold torch over the weld

* Maintains gas coverage while the weld and electrode cool

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Stick|Stick Welding]] ==

=== About ===
Stick welding, or Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), is a versatile and widely used welding process that uses a consumable electrode coated in flux to lay the weld. It is known for its simplicity and effectiveness in outdoor or windy conditions, making it ideal for construction, repair, and heavy steel structures.

=== No torch ===
Instead of a torch, stick welding uses a solid rod clamped in a stinger, which is a conductive clamp with grooves to hold the rod. The rod serves a triple purpose; it acts as the electrode by carrying current from the stinger to the workpiece, serves as filler material to fill the weld, and is covered in flux which vaporizes to become the shielding gas.

There are different kinds of rods for different purposes. The most common are listed below.

* 7018 is the most common all-purpose rod

* 6010/6011 are both very high strength, used for heavy duty applications

Many industrial processes will use a combination of 6010 for the root, and 7018 for the fill and cap.

=== Machine setup ===

* Plug in, turn on, connect ground clamp

* No gas needed because of flux

* No foot pedal either

==== Settings ====

* Depending on the electrode being used, you may need to flip the polarity
** Some rods run only DCEN, only DCEP, or only AC, some run a combination of the three
** Direct current electrode negative (DCEN) means the electrode is connected to the negative terminal of the machine and the ground connect to the positive
** And vice versa for DCEP

* Make sure the correct process and output is selected
** Process: stick
** Output: on
** Adjust: DIG
** All other settings should be default or off

* DO NOT put a rod in the stinger until you are ready to weld
** As soon as the ground clamp is connected, the stinger is LIVE
** If you leave a rod in the stinger, it will spark every time it touches the table

* Set amperage depending on rod rather than material thickness

* For 1/8” 7018 rod on 1/8” material, start at 110A and increase as needed

[[File:Stick_Welding_Settings.png|thumb]]

* As you can see in the chart, the rod size depends on the material size, and then the amperage depends on the rod size

* Bigger rods have more penetration

=== Technique ===

==== Before starting ====

* Find a comfortable position
** Use scrap, clamps, extra gloves etc to make an elbow/wrist rest
** Beware that your rod will shrink as you weld, account for that in your positioning
** Thumb to pinky

[[File:Thumb_to_pink.png|thumb]]

* Make sure your piece is clean, free of slag
** Have a chipping hammer and wire brush on hand
** Angle grinders or wire wheels can be handy too for really gross parts

* Make sure you have the right size rod
** Don't use a 5/32” rod on 0.065” thick material, it’ll go right through

==== Starting the weld ====

* Stick welding is usually scratch start (like striking a match)

* Scratch the tip of the electrode against the piece to start the flow of current, lift off to create the arc
** Scratching helps to avoid sticking your rod, and to remove bits of slag or flux that may be stuck to the end of the rod
** Scratch on a clean area, ahead of where you want to weld so you cover the arc strike

* Once the arc is started, don’t pull away too far!!! Arc length is crucial
** Too far away (long-arcing) will cause porosity, undercut, unstable arc
** Short-arcing will smoother the weld, rod will stick, poke holes
** But too short is better than too long

* Rod angle should generally be close to the middle of the two faces being joined
** Meaning 45deg for t joint, 90deg for butt joint etc ('''work angle''')
** Also using a slight (10-20deg) lead angle ie “dragging” the tip of the rod, to avoid pushing slag into the weld puddle ('''travel angle''')

* Make a tack weld at either end/on either side before doing the full bead, same as with MIG/TIG
** Once the tack is made, you have to “tie” it in to the bead
** Back-track to cover your tack before proceeding to the full bead
** This will avoid pinholes, undercut, bad toe lines etc

==== Finishing the weld ====

* At the end of the bead, “snap” the rod off
** Not snap as in break, more like a whip motion
** This will kill the arc quickly, rather than getting porosity from long-arcing as you pull away slowly (not good)
** This will also toss off any slag or molten metal from the end of the rod, makes the next restart easier

* Chip away any slag, wire brush any rust or spatter before starting the next bead
** Always easier to weld a clean part

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Spot Welding|Spot Welding]] ==

=== About ===
A '''spot welder''' is a type of resistance welding machine used to join two or more metal surfaces at small points by applying pressure and passing a strong electrical current through the metal. The heat generated by the electrical resistance at the interface of the workpieces causes them to melt and fuse. Spot welding is commonly used in the automotive industry, metal fabrication, and manufacturing of appliances.

=== Safety Considerations ===

* Risk of burns from hot metal and electrodes.

* Electrical hazards due to high current.

* Eye protection needed for sparks.

* Proper ventilation required to avoid inhalation of fumes.

=== Principle of Operation ===
Spot welding operates on the principle of '''Resistive Heating'''. Two copper alloy electrodes are used to clamp the workpieces together. A high-current, low-voltage electric pulse is then passed through the metals, typically for a few milliseconds. Because the current is concentrated at the point of contact and the resistance is highest there, the material heats and melts at that spot, forming a weld nugget.

=== Components ===
A typical spot welder consists of:

* '''Control System''': Regulates weld time, pressure, and current.

* '''Transformer''': Steps down voltage and increases current.

* '''Electrodes''': Copper alloy tips that conduct current and apply pressure.

* '''Tongs''': Provide leverage and spacing for the workpieces.

* '''Cooling System''': Often water-cooled to prevent overheating of electrodes.

=== Applications ===
Spot welders are widely used in:

* '''Automotive Manufacturing''': For joining body panels and frame components.

* '''Battery Packs''': To weld tabs on cylindrical and pouch-type battery cells.

* '''Sheet Metal Fabrication''': In appliances, cabinets, and enclosures.

* '''Aerospace and Electronics''': For precise, localized joining of components.

=== Advantages ===

* Fast and efficient for mass production.

* No need for filler material.

* Minimal heat-affected zone (HAZ).

* Consistent and repeatable weld quality with proper control.

=== Limitations ===

* Limited to thin sheet metals (typically less than 3 mm or 1/8” thick).

* Not suitable for non-conductive materials or thick components.

* Weld strength may vary with contamination or improper setup.

* Electrode wear requires regular maintenance.

* The MTC spot welder cannot weld aluminum since it requires higher current than the machine is rated for

=== Training and Operation ===
Spot welders are often rated as a '''Class 2 or 3 operation''' in machine shop environments like Brunsfield Center, meaning users require a brief training and oversight to safely perform welds. Training focuses on:

* PPE use (e.g., safety glasses, gloves)

* Setting weld time and current

* Electrode alignment

* Handling hot workpieces safely

To operate the spot welder, particular procedures must be followed to ensure safe and effective operation. Before use, make sure to have MIG welding gloves or pliers immediately available to handle the workpiece after welding and avoid burns.

* Turn the machine on, set the timer to the correct length of time
** For mild/galvanized steel, set the timer between 0.75 and 1.00 seconds
** For stainless steel, set the timer between 0.25 and 0.50 seconds
** Setting the timer too short will result in a cold joint and lack of fusion. Setting the timer too long will deform the material and cause the weld cross section to be smaller. Both result in a weak weld
** While some spot welders can weld aluminum, the MTC spot welder cannot. It does not have AC capability which aluminum requires to weld.

* Position the pieces to be welded between the tongs
** Make sure the pieces are aligned correctly relative to each other
** Make sure no part of the piece is touching any part of the tong other than the contact tip. This will split the current, causing the weld to not be as hot, which can cause lack of fusion
** For pieces more than 4” across, use a free hand to support the piece and prevent tipping
** Use a MIG glove to support the piece to avoid burns

* Hold the trigger for the full duration of the timer
** Failing to do so can result in a cold weld and lack of fusion
** The timer shuts the welder off automatically after it runs out; don’t worry about over-doing it

* Once the timer runs out, release the clamp and remove the workpiece
** DO NOT TOUCH with bare hands
** The piece will be hot, use pliers or gloves to handle until it cools
** Running the piece under the sink will cool it quickly, but the rapid change in temperature may cause cracks in the weld. For any joint that will be under load, allow to cool slowly

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Plasma Cutting|Plasma Cutting]] ==

=== About ===
[[File:Crossfire-85HD-Plasma-Cutter-Thick-Cut_941x630.jpg|thumb]]
The plasma gun uses as arc (like welding) coupled with a stream of compressed air to melt away metal using the torch. It can be used to cut thicker metals quickly, but leaves a rough surface finish.

Operating the plasma gun is very similar to a [[MIG]] welder. It is done in the welding bay in Brunsfield and require MIG training before operating. This is considered an advance manufacturing technology, '''please check in with a staff before commencing.'''

=== Operating Procedure ===

==== Preparation ====
* Ensure the welding curtains are fully closed around the cutting zone.
* Prepare your piece by marking your cuts and setting up a jig if repeated cuts are to be made.

==== Plasma Table ====
* Clear all items from the surface of the plasma table.
* Ensure both wheel casters are in the locked position.
* With the help of another person, lift open the lid of the table until it hangs down at the side. Lift from both front corners slowly and set the lid down gently.
* Pinching Hazard! The table lid is very heavy. Use caution and ask for hep if needed.

[[File:PremierPlasmaCNCSafetyKit.webp|thumb|330x330px]]

==== PPE Check ====
* Wear a welding helmet or plasma glasses, gloves, welding jacket, long (non-systhetic) pants that are tucked over your boots, and safety boots.
* Use hearing protection if required.
* Use an N-95 mask or respirator.

==== Setup and Power-On ====
* Connect the power cable to the back of the machine.
* Check the air pressure and power settings on the plasma cutter.
* Connect the air hose to the plasma cutter.
* Turn on the ventilation system.
* Clamp the ground lead securely to the workpiece.

[[File:Using-a-hand-held-plasma-cutter-plasma-cutting-sequence.jpg|thumb|475x475px]]

==== Cutting Operation ====
* Hold the torch perpendicular to the work surface at all times.
* Cut only above the open table, do not stand under the torch while cutting.
* Ensure nothing is in the way of your cut; the torch should slide smoothly along the surface of the piece.
* Begin the cut off of the work piece, then slowly move to cut through the metal.
* Maintain a steady speed, always allowing material to be blown out of the bottom of the cut.

==== Post-Cut Procedure ====
* Turn off power and disconnect the air supply.
* Let materials cool fully before handling them.
* Coil cables neatly and store equipment safely.
* Return all PPE to the cabinets

==== Clean-Up ====
* Clear metal debris.
* Ensure ventilation runs until fumes are dispersed.
* Using a second person, carefully close the lid of the plasma table. A piece of metal can be used as a shim while closing to ensure fingers aren’t pinched.
* Report any issues or damage.

The Brunsfield Center

2025-07-09T17:57:33Z

Eparkhouse: /* Manufacturing Technologies */

== About ==
To gain access to the Brunsfield Centre, uOttawa members (students or staff) must first complete training on the equipment at the Manufacturing Training Centre.

We encourage you to come talk to us about what you are trying to build and we will be happy to point you to the appropriate equipment and will help you get trained.

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Using the Shop|Using the Shop]] ==

=== Shop Rules ===
Some general rules for Brunsfield (STM 129):

* All users must complete the [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Basic Training|Basic Training]] before using any tools or machines in the shop.
* All users must '''Sign-in''' using their MakerRepo account.
* All users must wear '''safety glasses, long pants, and steel toes boots'''. Toe caps and safety glasses are readily available for those who do not have their own.
* '''Stay within your comfort zone!''' Brunsfield staff (wearing orange) are always there to help to get started or answer your questions.
* Always clean up after yourselves and put tools back in their place.

=== Sign-In Process ===
All Brunsfield and MTC users need to sign in & out of the space using their MakerRepo account. This can be linked with a student/employee card, or can be given manually.

There is a '''Tap-Box''' at the front desk of all of the spaces, simply tap your card on the box and once the light turns green, you're good to go.

A staff can help you link you account to a new card, or sign you in without a card.

It is the user's job to make an account on [https://https//makerepo.com/ MakerRepo] before visiting the spaces.

=== Buying Materials ===
Brunsfield keeps stock of various metals and composites that are left of from projects, and can sell them to shop users.

We also have a selection of '''Scrap Materials''' that are in marked bins in Brunsfield. These materials are '''free to use''' for any users.

Everything that is '''For Sale''' lives on the labelled rack at the back of the shop. All of our pricing is determined by our supplier [https://www.metalpros.com/ Metal Pros.]Simply navigate to their website and identify the geometry of the piece you are looking to purchase. Staff can also assist in determining cost of items.

From there, you will be directed to [https://makerstore.ca/ Makerstore] in order to pay for you material. Simply purchase the item "Brunsfield Bars" at whatever quantity is needed to cover your purchase.

Once a staff has confirmed your order, you're all set!

=== Placing an Order ===
Looking to outsource your project? Our skilled team can help by fabricating your parts for you. Contact us for further information.

=== Design Reviews ===

== [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings|Shop Trainings]] ==
The following trainings are offered in MTC or Brunsfield. More info can be found on the trainings page.
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Basic Training|Basic Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Mill Training|Mill Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Lathe Training|Lathe Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/Welding Safety & MIG Trainig|Welding Safety & MIG Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/TIG Training|TIG Training]]
* [[Manufacturing Training Center/Shop Trainings/CNC Training|CNC Training]]

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Our Team|Our Team]] ==

== [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies|Manufacturing Technologies]] ==
Here is a list of the machines, tools, and processes available through the Brunsfield Center. Click on a specific section to learn more.

* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Mill|Mill]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Lathe|Lathe]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding|Welding Area]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/MIG|MIG]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG|TIG]]
** [[Stick]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Plasma Cutting|Plasma cutting]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Grinders|Grinders]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Spot Welding|Spot Welder]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC|CNC machinery]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router|CNC Routers]]
** CNC Mills
** CNC Lathes
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Vertical Bandsaw|Vertical Band Saw]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Horizontal Bandsaw|Horizontal Band Saw]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Drill Press|Drill press]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Sheet Metal Brake|Sheet Metal Brake]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Sheet Metal Shear|Sheet Metal Shear]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Hand Tools|Hand Tools]]

* [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room|Wood Room]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Miter Saw|Miter Saw]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Panel Saw|Panel Saw]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Circular Saw|Circular Saw (Skillsaw)]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Jigsaw|Jigsaw]]

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies

2025-07-09T17:55:12Z

Eparkhouse:

Here is a list of the machines, tools, and processes available through the Brunsfield Center. Click on a specific section to learn more.

* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Mill|Mill]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Lathe|Lathe]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding|Welding Area]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/MIG|MIG]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG|TIG]]
** [[Stick]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Plasma Cutting|Plasma cutting]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Grinders|Grinders]]
** [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/Spot Welding|Spot Welder]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC|CNC machinery]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/Manufacturing Technologies/CNC Router|CNC Routers]]
** CNC Mills
** CNC Lathes
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Vertical Bandsaw|Vertical Band Saw]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Horizontal Bandsaw|Horizontal Band Saw]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Drill Press|Drill press]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Sheet Metal Brake|Sheet Metal Brake]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Sheet Metal Shear|Sheet Metal Shear]]
* [[The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Hand Tools|Hand Tools]]

* [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room|Wood Room]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Miter Saw|Miter Saw]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Panel Saw|Panel Saw]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Circular Saw|Circular Saw (Skillsaw)]]
** [[Manufacturing Training Center/The Wood Room/Jigsaw|Jigsaw]]

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG

2025-07-03T17:15:47Z

Eparkhouse:

== About ==
Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welding, also known as Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW), is a precise welding process that uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to produce the weld. Known for its high-quality, clean welds, TIG welding is commonly used on thin materials such as stainless steel and aluminum in industries requiring strong, visually appealing joints.

== Safety ==
There are several hazards associated with the TIG welding process. Because the process involves electrical arcs and fusing metal parts, the main hazards are extreme heat from the torch and the workpiece both during and after, arc flash from the torch, and electric shocks from the torch. Other hazards that are involved include, but are not limited to: trips and slips from cables, dust, or other tools; line of fire, dropped objects, pinch points, over-extension/exertion, and compressed gas from the compressed gas bottles that contain the shielding gas; and exposure to loud noises, dust and fume inhalation from the grinding machines.

'''This is not an exhaustive list of hazards for working in the welding area or using the welding machines. Always be aware of your surroundings, wear the appropriate PPE, and ask a supervisor if you're unsure about anything.'''

There are several ways to mitigate or eliminate the risks posed by these hazards.

=== PPE ===
Personal protective equipment (PPE) for the TIG welding process includes the following pieces:

* Safety glasses
* Steel-toe boots or caps
* Long, unripped pants that cover the entire leg and go over the cuff of the boot or shoe
* Welding mask
** shade 10 minimum, maximum sensitivity, minimum delay
* Welding beanie
* Welding jacket
** inspect for tears or holes (report to staff if damaged)
** ensure proper fit: conforms to the body with no loose slack, but not too tight to restrict movement
* TIG welding gloves
** inspect for holes (report to staff if damaged)
** ensure proper fit: cuff should fit over the end of the jacket sleeve, fingers should be snug but not tight

Optional PPE if you're also using the plasma cutter or grinder can include:

* respirator or dust mask
* ear plugs or ear muffs
* face shield

=== Personal Safety ===
In addition to wearing all the required PPE, all welders must remove any jewelry on the hands or wrists, or around the neck to avoid getting tangled or stuck in the machines. It is also forbidden to wear ear buds or head phones while working in Brunsfield in case of an emergency or if someone needs to get your attention.

=== Shop Features ===
The welding area has several features to keep everyone safe.

* Welding cutains: shaded curtains that surround the welding area, meant to protect others in the shop from arc flash and hot sparks
* Vent hoods: for processes or materials that produce fumes, the vent hoods can be positioned over the table or next to the part

There are also several tools and pieces of equipment to mitigate certain risks in the welding area.

* Pliers to handle hot or sharp objects
* Hooks on the machines to stow cables
* Various clamps, magnets, and a vise to prevent the workpiece from slipping or falling

== The TIG torch ==

=== Assembly ===
* Collet body screws into the front of the torch body
** Gas lens does the same thing, creates laminar flow for getting into tight spots

* Collet goes into the back of the collet body
** Notice slits on collet, acts like springs
** Inside of collet body is tapered, pinches the collet closed

* Ceramic gas cup screws on top of collet body

* Sharpened electrode goes in through the back of torch
** Grey paint: 2% ceriated is a good all-purpose electrode, ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals
** “rule of thumb” for stickout, half the width of your thumb from the cup to the tip of the elctrode

* Tail cap screws onto back of torch body, seals the collet and electrode

=== Spare parts ===
All internal parts are made of copper for its conductivity. Copper is very soft so be careful to never over-tighten anything when assembling the torche. All these parts get worn out over time, they will tarnish due to the heat, slowly losing its conductivity. Brand new parts are very shiny, bright red and conduct electricity very well; you will notice a more stable arc when you replace an old part with a new one.

There are also different sized parts for different applications. Thicker material requires more heat to weld, meaning a thicker electrode to conduct more current, thus needing larger collet and collet body, and more gas to shield, meaning a larger cup. On the other hand, thinner material requires less amperage, and when an electrode is too big for the amount of amperage the arc becomes unstable and difficult to start. Therefore, a smaller electrode, collet, and collet body should be installed, along with a smaller gas cup to concentrate the gas on the smaller weld pool.

=== Electrode ===
TIG welding uses a tungsten as an electrode. Tungsten has an extremely high melting point (3422C, 6191F), so when you weld the electrode gets hot but it doesn't melt. This means the electrode is non-consummable, it won’t last forever but it doesn’t melt and become part of the weld (unlike MIG where the electrode melts and becomes filler metal. This is a consumable electrode process)

The color of the electrode indicates the type of tungsten alloy. Some of the more common alloys include:

* Grey is 2% ceriated, good choice for all types of welding; providing good arc start and restart characteristics with no spitting. It is ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals.

* 2% lanthanated tungsten (color-coded blue) is a true all-purpose electrode, with excellent arc starting characteristics and the ability to transmit high current without spitting. It provides a stable arc at both high and low current, and works very well on all metals.

* Rare earth tungsten (chartreuse) has the very best low-current arc starting characteristics, and it can be used on all metals. This type is often preferred for automated welding.

* Zirconiated tungsten (white) is good for welding aluminum and magnesium alloys. It has high current-carrying capacity, and it provides better arc starts and stability than pure tungsten.

=== Sharpening your tungsten ===
* Make sure to use the left of the two small wheels, labeled for tungsten

* Wear gloves, it’ll get toasty

* Don't use pliers, not enough grip

* Hold the electrode in line with the wheel, pointing up against the rotation

* Want grind lines running towards the point to direct the current

* If it grabs the wheel, it’ll just push you away

* Holding it downward will pull you into the wheel and revoke your finger privileges

* Spin it slowly and constantly in your fingers

* Looking for a uniform cone, don’t want flat spots

* Aim for 30 degrees

* Break off the point

* Don't want any burrs to throw off our arc

* The flat end helps a little with penetration

== Machine Setup ==

=== Starting the machine ===
* Plug in, flip power switch

* Open gas valve, set flow to 15-20CFH

* Need to have gas flowing to read flowmeter, press the pedal down

* Connect the ground clamp

* Set the pedal and torch in a comfortable position

=== Settings ===

==== Amperage ====
As a general rule of thumb, start by setting the amperage equivalent to the thickness of your part in thousandths of an inch, ie. 1A = 0.001". So for a 1/8" practice coupon, start out at 125A.

However, with more experience you will learn to play around with this setting to suit your particular style. For example, some people might set their amperage to 140A for 1/8" Aluminum to get an extra kick when starting their weld, even though they'll only use 50% of the pedal (70-80A) for the rest of the weld after it's started.

==== Polarity ====
* AC for Aluminum and Magnesium
** Electrode positive phase, electrons flowing from workpiece to electrode, blows through the back of the oxide layer
** Electrode negative phase, electrons flowing from the electrode to the workpiece, actually melts the pure aluminum inside to make a weld

* DC for all other metals

==== Process ====
This setting controls how the arc starts.

* HF impulse allows to press the pedal and start the arc without needing to touch the workpiece to start the flow of electricity

* Lift start requires you to touch the tungsten to the workpiece, press the pedal down, then lift off to start the arc

* Stick (scratch start) is when the electrode stays live at all times so start the arc as soon as you make contact

==== Output ====
This setting determines what activates the arc.

* Remote standard allows you to use a foot pedal or hand remote

* 2T hold acts like a toggle function

==== Pulser ====
Use this setting to periodically decrease the heat for smaller parts.

* PPS stands for pulses per second

* Peak time is how long each pulse is at max amperage as a percentage of the PPS

* Background amperage is the minimum amperage in between pulses

==== Sequence ====
Use this setting in conjunction with the 2T hold setting for when a remote (foot pedal) isn’t available or practical.

* Initial amperage is the amount of amps used to initiate the arc, usually based on electrode size

* Initial slope is how long it will take to go from initial A to your working amperage

* Final slope is how long it will take to decrease from working A to final A

* Final A is the amperage right before the arc cuts out

==== Adjust ====
* Preflow is how long the gas will flow before the weld starts, to clear out any impurities for the start

* Postflow is gas flow after the weld, to protect the weld and the electrode as they cool

* DIG is used for stick welding, prevents the electrode from sticking to the workpiece by temporarily increasing the voltage when the arc is about to go out

==== AC Waveshape ====
* Balance changes how much cleaning actions happens to remove the Al oxide. Lower balance has more cleaning action

* Frequency changes the width of the AC arc. Higher frequency will have a tighter arc with more penetration

==== Starting Recipes ====
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Material
!0.125" AISI 1018 plate
!0.065" AISI 4130 tube
!0.125" 6061-T6 plate
|-
|Amperage
|130A
|67A
|150A
|-
|Polarity
|DC
|DC
|AC
|-
|Process
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|-
|Output
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|-
|Pulser
|off
|0.8 PPS, 40% peak t, 25A bkgnd A
|off
|-
|Sequence
|off
|off
|off
|-
|Adjust
|0.2s pre-flow, 4s post-flow
|0.5s pre-flow, 5s post-flow
|0.8s pre-flow, 6s post-flow
|-
|AC Waveshape
|off
|off
|70% balance, 80Hz
|}
Start with these settings and play around with them as you practice. Only change one setting at a time until you understand what each one does, that way you can notice the effect of each one.

==== Troubleshooting ====

* Amperage: The weld bead should be about twice as wide as the thickness of the material. If the bead is wider than that, turn the amperage down. Turn the amperage up if the bead is smaller.

* Process: If the arc won't start when you press the foot pedal, check your process setting. If you're in lift arc or stick, the machine expects you to touch the electrode to the workpiece in order to start the flow of current. Use HF Impulse instead for most TIG operations.

* Pulser: If you feel like you don't have enough time to reposition between pulses, decrease the PPS value. If you don't have time to add filler and connect the bead during the pulse, increase the peak t value. If the arc is flickering or dying in between pulses, turn up the background amperage.
* Adjust: if the weld has any porosity or oxidation, check that the gas flow rate is set correctly on the regulator. If the regulator is set correctly and the issue still arises, increase the post-flow value
* AC Waveshape: If the bead is too narrow, decrease the frequency. If it's too narrow AND has poor penetration, increase the amperage instead. If there's too much etching, turn up the balance. If the oxide layer won't break, turn the balance down.

== Technique ==

=== Before starting ===
* Make sure your tungsten is sharp
** See the above section titled "Sharpening your tungsten"

* Stick your electrode out the same amount as the width of the cup

* Make sure you have enough to finish the joint in one pass
** Most joints will use about twice the length of filler as the length of the joint

* Find a comfortable position
** Being comfy is the fastest way to improve your welds
** Sit whenever possible, use a back support or foot rest as needed

* Trace your path to make sure you can reach and see everything you need to
** If the piece is elevated off the work surface, find a way to support your hands

=== Starting the weld ===
* Position your torch so the tip of the electrode is ~1/8” from the surface of the workpiece
** Never exceed ¼" (long arcing, poor gas coverage)

* Hold the torch at the correct angle
** 5-15deg lead angle in the plane parallel to the weld, meaning handle tilted back, electrode point in the direction of travel
** 90deg to the face of the weld, meaning vertical for flat welds or butt joints, 45deg from vertical for lap or T joints

* Apply the pedal slowly, develop the puddle
** Look for how the heat input affects the width of the puddle

* For joints, make a tack weld first
** Start the arc in the middle of the gap to create a puddle on either side, increase the heat until they connect
** Use filler sparingly at first, make sure the base material fuses fully.

=== Make a bead ===
* Look for how filler input affects the height of the puddle

* Make sure to tie in to your tack or last bead, ie start with some overlap

* For joints, use a back-and-forth motion to connect the two pieces

* Use enough filler to avoid undercut (where the surface dips down)
* Make sure to add the filler directly into the puddle, don't lay it down next to the bead

=== Finishing the weld ===
* Finish the last ~¼" without filler to avoid a big glob at the end

* Make sure to go all the way over your tack or next bead

* Avoid pinholes, lack of fusion

* Slowly lift off pedal, hold torch over the weld

* Maintains gas coverage while the weld and electrode cool

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG

2025-07-03T17:12:52Z

Eparkhouse: /* Before starting */

== About ==
Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welding, also known as Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW), is a precise welding process that uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to produce the weld. Known for its high-quality, clean welds, TIG welding is commonly used on thin materials such as stainless steel and aluminum in industries requiring strong, visually appealing joints.

== Safety ==
There are several hazards associated with the TIG welding process. Because the process involves electrical arcs and fusing metal parts, the main hazards are extreme heat from the torch and the workpiece both during and after, arc flash from the torch, and electric shocks from the torch. Other hazards that are involved include, but are not limited to: trips and slips from cables, dust, or other tools; line of fire, dropped objects, pinch points, over-extension/exertion, and compressed gas from the compressed gas bottles that contain the shielding gas; and exposure to loud noises, dust and fume inhalation from the grinding machines.

'''This is not an exhaustive list of hazards for working in the welding area or using the welding machines. Always be aware of your surroundings, wear the appropriate PPE, and ask a supervisor if you're unsure about anything.'''

There are several ways to mitigate or eliminate the risks posed by these hazards.

=== PPE ===
Personal protective equipment (PPE) for the TIG welding process includes the following pieces:

* Safety glasses
* Steel-toe boots or caps
* Long, unripped pants that cover the entire leg and go over the cuff of the boot or shoe
* Welding mask
** shade 10 minimum, maximum sensitivity, minimum delay
* Welding beanie
* Welding jacket
** inspect for tears or holes (report to staff if damaged)
** ensure proper fit: conforms to the body with no loose slack, but not too tight to restrict movement
* TIG welding gloves
** inspect for holes (report to staff if damaged)
** ensure proper fit: cuff should fit over the end of the jacket sleeve, fingers should be snug but not tight

Optional PPE if you're also using the plasma cutter or grinder can include:

* respirator or dust mask
* ear plugs or ear muffs
* face shield

=== Personal Safety ===
In addition to wearing all the required PPE, all welders must remove any jewelry on the hands or wrists, or around the neck to avoid getting tangled or stuck in the machines. It is also forbidden to wear ear buds or head phones while working in Brunsfield in case of an emergency or if someone needs to get your attention.

=== Shop Features ===
The welding area has several features to keep everyone safe.

* Welding cutains: shaded curtains that surround the welding area, meant to protect others in the shop from arc flash and hot sparks
* Vent hoods: for processes or materials that produce fumes, the vent hoods can be positioned over the table or next to the part

There are also several tools and pieces of equipment to mitigate certain risks in the welding area.

* Pliers to handle hot or sharp objects
* Hooks on the machines to stow cables
* Various clamps, magnets, and a vise to prevent the workpiece from slipping or falling

== The TIG torch ==

=== Assembly ===
* Collet body screws into the front of the torch body
** Gas lens does the same thing, creates laminar flow for getting into tight spots

* Collet goes into the back of the collet body
** Notice slits on collet, acts like springs
** Inside of collet body is tapered, pinches the collet closed

* Ceramic gas cup screws on top of collet body

* Sharpened electrode goes in through the back of torch
** Grey paint: 2% ceriated is a good all-purpose electrode, ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals
** “rule of thumb” for stickout, half the width of your thumb from the cup to the tip of the elctrode

* Tail cap screws onto back of torch body, seals the collet and electrode

=== Spare parts ===
All internal parts are made of copper for its conductivity. Copper is very soft so be careful to never over-tighten anything when assembling the torche. All these parts get worn out over time, they will tarnish due to the heat, slowly losing its conductivity. Brand new parts are very shiny, bright red and conduct electricity very well; you will notice a more stable arc when you replace an old part with a new one.

There are also different sized parts for different applications. Thicker material requires more heat to weld, meaning a thicker electrode to conduct more current, thus needing larger collet and collet body, and more gas to shield, meaning a larger cup. On the other hand, thinner material requires less amperage, and when an electrode is too big for the amount of amperage the arc becomes unstable and difficult to start. Therefore, a smaller electrode, collet, and collet body should be installed, along with a smaller gas cup to concentrate the gas on the smaller weld pool.

=== Electrode ===
TIG welding uses a tungsten as an electrode. Tungsten has an extremely high melting point (3422C, 6191F), so when you weld the electrode gets hot but it doesn't melt. This means the electrode is non-consummable, it won’t last forever but it doesn’t melt and become part of the weld (unlike MIG where the electrode melts and becomes filler metal. This is a consumable electrode process)

The color of the electrode indicates the type of tungsten alloy. Some of the more common alloys include:

* Grey is 2% ceriated, good choice for all types of welding; providing good arc start and restart characteristics with no spitting. It is ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals.

* 2% lanthanated tungsten (color-coded blue) is a true all-purpose electrode, with excellent arc starting characteristics and the ability to transmit high current without spitting. It provides a stable arc at both high and low current, and works very well on all metals.

* Rare earth tungsten (chartreuse) has the very best low-current arc starting characteristics, and it can be used on all metals. This type is often preferred for automated welding.

* Zirconiated tungsten (white) is good for welding aluminum and magnesium alloys. It has high current-carrying capacity, and it provides better arc starts and stability than pure tungsten.

=== Sharpening your tungsten ===
* Make sure to use the left of the two small wheels, labeled for tungsten

* Wear gloves, it’ll get toasty

* Don't use pliers, not enough grip

* Hold the electrode in line with the wheel, pointing up against the rotation

* Want grind lines running towards the point to direct the current

* If it grabs the wheel, it’ll just push you away

* Holding it downward will pull you into the wheel and revoke your finger privileges

* Spin it slowly and constantly in your fingers

* Looking for a uniform cone, don’t want flat spots

* Aim for 30 degrees

* Break off the point

* Don't want any burrs to throw off our arc

* The flat end helps a little with penetration

== Machine Setup ==

=== Starting the machine ===
* Plug in, flip power switch

* Open gas valve, set flow to 15-20CFH

* Need to have gas flowing to read flowmeter, press the pedal down

* Connect the ground clamp

* Set the pedal and torch in a comfortable position

=== Settings ===

==== Amperage ====
As a general rule of thumb, start by setting the amperage equivalent to the thickness of your part in thousandths of an inch, ie. 1A = 0.001". So for a 1/8" practice coupon, start out at 125A.

However, with more experience you will learn to play around with this setting to suit your particular style. For example, some people might set their amperage to 140A for 1/8" Aluminum to get an extra kick when starting their weld, even though they'll only use 50% of the pedal (70-80A) for the rest of the weld after it's started.

==== Polarity ====
* AC for Aluminum and Magnesium
** Electrode positive phase, electrons flowing from workpiece to electrode, blows through the back of the oxide layer
** Electrode negative phase, electrons flowing from the electrode to the workpiece, actually melts the pure aluminum inside to make a weld

* DC for all other metals

==== Process ====
This setting controls how the arc starts.

* HF impulse allows to press the pedal and start the arc without needing to touch the workpiece to start the flow of electricity

* Lift start requires you to touch the tungsten to the workpiece, press the pedal down, then lift off to start the arc

* Stick (scratch start) is when the electrode stays live at all times so start the arc as soon as you make contact

==== Output ====
This setting determines what activates the arc.

* Remote standard allows you to use a foot pedal or hand remote

* 2T hold acts like a toggle function

==== Pulser ====
Use this setting to periodically decrease the heat for smaller parts.

* PPS stands for pulses per second

* Peak time is how long each pulse is at max amperage as a percentage of the PPS

* Background amperage is the minimum amperage in between pulses

==== Sequence ====
Use this setting in conjunction with the 2T hold setting for when a remote (foot pedal) isn’t available or practical.

* Initial amperage is the amount of amps used to initiate the arc, usually based on electrode size

* Initial slope is how long it will take to go from initial A to your working amperage

* Final slope is how long it will take to decrease from working A to final A

* Final A is the amperage right before the arc cuts out

==== Adjust ====
* Preflow is how long the gas will flow before the weld starts, to clear out any impurities for the start

* Postflow is gas flow after the weld, to protect the weld and the electrode as they cool

* DIG is used for stick welding, prevents the electrode from sticking to the workpiece by temporarily increasing the voltage when the arc is about to go out

==== AC Waveshape ====
* Balance changes how much cleaning actions happens to remove the Al oxide. Lower balance has more cleaning action

* Frequency changes the width of the AC arc. Higher frequency will have a tighter arc with more penetration

==== Starting Recipes ====
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Material
!0.125" AISI 1018 plate
!0.065" AISI 4130 tube
!0.125" 6061-T6 plate
|-
|Amperage
|130A
|67A
|150A
|-
|Polarity
|DC
|DC
|AC
|-
|Process
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|-
|Output
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|-
|Pulser
|off
|0.8 PPS, 40% peak t, 25A bkgnd A
|off
|-
|Sequence
|off
|off
|off
|-
|Adjust
|0.2s pre-flow, 4s post-flow
|0.5s pre-flow, 5s post-flow
|0.8s pre-flow, 6s post-flow
|-
|AC Waveshape
|off
|off
|70% balance, 80Hz
|}
Start with these settings and play around with them as you practice. Only change one setting at a time until you understand what each one does, that way you can notice the effect of each one.

==== Troubleshooting ====

* Amperage: The weld bead should be about twice as wide as the thickness of the material. If the bead is wider than that, turn the amperage down. Turn the amperage up if the bead is smaller.

* Process: If the arc won't start when you press the foot pedal, check your process setting. If you're in lift arc or stick, the machine expects you to touch the electrode to the workpiece in order to start the flow of current. Use HF Impulse instead for most TIG operations.

* Pulser: If you feel like you don't have enough time to reposition between pulses, decrease the PPS value. If you don't have time to add filler and connect the bead during the pulse, increase the peak t value. If the arc is flickering or dying in between pulses, turn up the background amperage.
* Adjust: if the weld has any porosity or oxidation, check that the gas flow rate is set correctly on the regulator. If the regulator is set correctly and the issue still arises, increase the post-flow value
* AC Waveshape: If the bead is too narrow, decrease the frequency. If it's too narrow AND has poor penetration, increase the amperage instead. If there's too much etching, turn up the balance. If the oxide layer won't break, turn the balance down.

== Technique ==

=== Before starting ===
* Make sure your tungsten is sharp
** See the above section titled "Sharpening your tungsten"

* Stick your electrode out the same amount as the width of the cup

* Make sure you have enough to finish the joint in one pass
** Most joints will use about twice the length of filler as the length of the joint

* Find a comfortable position
** Being comfy is the fastest way to improve your welds
** Sit whenever possible, use a back support or foot rest as needed

* Trace your path to make sure you can reach and see everything you need to
** If the piece is elevated off the work surface, find a way to support your hands

=== Starting the weld ===
* Position your torch so the tip of the electrode is ~1/8” from the surface of the workpiece. Never exceed ¼" (long arcing, poor gas coverage)

* Hold the torch at the correct angle

* 5-15deg lead angle in the plane parallel to the weld, meaning handle tilted back, electrode point in the direction of travel

* 90deg to the face of the weld, meaning vertical for flat welds or butt joints, 45deg from vertical for lap or T joints

* Apply the pedal slowly, develop the puddle

* Look for how the heat input affects the width of the puddle

* For joints, make a tack weld first. Start the arc in the middle of the gap to create a puddle on either side, increase the heat until they connect

* Use filler sparingly at first, make sure the base material fuses fully.

=== Make a bead ===
* Look for how filler input affects the height of the puddle

* Make sure to tie in to your tack or last bead, ie start with some overlap

* For joints, use a back-and-forth motion to connect the two pieces

* Use enough filler to avoid undercut (where the surface dips down)
* Make sure to add the filler directly into the puddle, don't lay it down next to the bead

=== Finishing the weld ===
* Finish the last ~¼" without filler to avoid a big glob at the end

* Make sure to go all the way over your tack or next bead

* Avoid pinholes, lack of fusion

* Slowly lift off pedal, hold torch over the weld

* Maintains gas coverage while the weld and electrode cool

The Brunsfield Center/Manufacturing Technologies/Welding/TIG

2025-07-03T17:07:18Z

Eparkhouse:

== About ==
Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welding, also known as Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW), is a precise welding process that uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to produce the weld. Known for its high-quality, clean welds, TIG welding is commonly used on thin materials such as stainless steel and aluminum in industries requiring strong, visually appealing joints.

== Safety ==
There are several hazards associated with the TIG welding process. Because the process involves electrical arcs and fusing metal parts, the main hazards are extreme heat from the torch and the workpiece both during and after, arc flash from the torch, and electric shocks from the torch. Other hazards that are involved include, but are not limited to: trips and slips from cables, dust, or other tools; line of fire, dropped objects, pinch points, over-extension/exertion, and compressed gas from the compressed gas bottles that contain the shielding gas; and exposure to loud noises, dust and fume inhalation from the grinding machines.

'''This is not an exhaustive list of hazards for working in the welding area or using the welding machines. Always be aware of your surroundings, wear the appropriate PPE, and ask a supervisor if you're unsure about anything.'''

There are several ways to mitigate or eliminate the risks posed by these hazards.

=== PPE ===
Personal protective equipment (PPE) for the TIG welding process includes the following pieces:

* Safety glasses
* Steel-toe boots or caps
* Long, unripped pants that cover the entire leg and go over the cuff of the boot or shoe
* Welding mask
** shade 10 minimum, maximum sensitivity, minimum delay
* Welding beanie
* Welding jacket
** inspect for tears or holes (report to staff if damaged)
** ensure proper fit: conforms to the body with no loose slack, but not too tight to restrict movement
* TIG welding gloves
** inspect for holes (report to staff if damaged)
** ensure proper fit: cuff should fit over the end of the jacket sleeve, fingers should be snug but not tight

Optional PPE if you're also using the plasma cutter or grinder can include:

* respirator or dust mask
* ear plugs or ear muffs
* face shield

=== Personal Safety ===
In addition to wearing all the required PPE, all welders must remove any jewelry on the hands or wrists, or around the neck to avoid getting tangled or stuck in the machines. It is also forbidden to wear ear buds or head phones while working in Brunsfield in case of an emergency or if someone needs to get your attention.

=== Shop Features ===
The welding area has several features to keep everyone safe.

* Welding cutains: shaded curtains that surround the welding area, meant to protect others in the shop from arc flash and hot sparks
* Vent hoods: for processes or materials that produce fumes, the vent hoods can be positioned over the table or next to the part

There are also several tools and pieces of equipment to mitigate certain risks in the welding area.

* Pliers to handle hot or sharp objects
* Hooks on the machines to stow cables
* Various clamps, magnets, and a vise to prevent the workpiece from slipping or falling

== The TIG torch ==

=== Assembly ===
* Collet body screws into the front of the torch body
** Gas lens does the same thing, creates laminar flow for getting into tight spots

* Collet goes into the back of the collet body
** Notice slits on collet, acts like springs
** Inside of collet body is tapered, pinches the collet closed

* Ceramic gas cup screws on top of collet body

* Sharpened electrode goes in through the back of torch
** Grey paint: 2% ceriated is a good all-purpose electrode, ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals
** “rule of thumb” for stickout, half the width of your thumb from the cup to the tip of the elctrode

* Tail cap screws onto back of torch body, seals the collet and electrode

=== Spare parts ===
All internal parts are made of copper for its conductivity. Copper is very soft so be careful to never over-tighten anything when assembling the torche. All these parts get worn out over time, they will tarnish due to the heat, slowly losing its conductivity. Brand new parts are very shiny, bright red and conduct electricity very well; you will notice a more stable arc when you replace an old part with a new one.

There are also different sized parts for different applications. Thicker material requires more heat to weld, meaning a thicker electrode to conduct more current, thus needing larger collet and collet body, and more gas to shield, meaning a larger cup. On the other hand, thinner material requires less amperage, and when an electrode is too big for the amount of amperage the arc becomes unstable and difficult to start. Therefore, a smaller electrode, collet, and collet body should be installed, along with a smaller gas cup to concentrate the gas on the smaller weld pool.

=== Electrode ===
TIG welding uses a tungsten as an electrode. Tungsten has an extremely high melting point (3422C, 6191F), so when you weld the electrode gets hot but it doesn't melt. This means the electrode is non-consummable, it won’t last forever but it doesn’t melt and become part of the weld (unlike MIG where the electrode melts and becomes filler metal. This is a consumable electrode process)

The color of the electrode indicates the type of tungsten alloy. Some of the more common alloys include:

* Grey is 2% ceriated, good choice for all types of welding; providing good arc start and restart characteristics with no spitting. It is ideal for low- and medium-current welding on all metals.

* 2% lanthanated tungsten (color-coded blue) is a true all-purpose electrode, with excellent arc starting characteristics and the ability to transmit high current without spitting. It provides a stable arc at both high and low current, and works very well on all metals.

* Rare earth tungsten (chartreuse) has the very best low-current arc starting characteristics, and it can be used on all metals. This type is often preferred for automated welding.

* Zirconiated tungsten (white) is good for welding aluminum and magnesium alloys. It has high current-carrying capacity, and it provides better arc starts and stability than pure tungsten.

=== Sharpening your tungsten ===
* Make sure to use the left of the two small wheels, labeled for tungsten

* Wear gloves, it’ll get toasty

* Don't use pliers, not enough grip

* Hold the electrode in line with the wheel, pointing up against the rotation

* Want grind lines running towards the point to direct the current

* If it grabs the wheel, it’ll just push you away

* Holding it downward will pull you into the wheel and revoke your finger privileges

* Spin it slowly and constantly in your fingers

* Looking for a uniform cone, don’t want flat spots

* Aim for 30 degrees

* Break off the point

* Don't want any burrs to throw off our arc

* The flat end helps a little with penetration

== Machine Setup ==

=== Starting the machine ===
* Plug in, flip power switch

* Open gas valve, set flow to 15-20CFH

* Need to have gas flowing to read flowmeter, press the pedal down

* Connect the ground clamp

* Set the pedal and torch in a comfortable position

=== Settings ===

==== Amperage ====
As a general rule of thumb, start by setting the amperage equivalent to the thickness of your part in thousandths of an inch, ie. 1A = 0.001". So for a 1/8" practice coupon, start out at 125A.

However, with more experience you will learn to play around with this setting to suit your particular style. For example, some people might set their amperage to 140A for 1/8" Aluminum to get an extra kick when starting their weld, even though they'll only use 50% of the pedal (70-80A) for the rest of the weld after it's started.

==== Polarity ====
* AC for Aluminum and Magnesium
** Electrode positive phase, electrons flowing from workpiece to electrode, blows through the back of the oxide layer
** Electrode negative phase, electrons flowing from the electrode to the workpiece, actually melts the pure aluminum inside to make a weld

* DC for all other metals

==== Process ====
This setting controls how the arc starts.

* HF impulse allows to press the pedal and start the arc without needing to touch the workpiece to start the flow of electricity

* Lift start requires you to touch the tungsten to the workpiece, press the pedal down, then lift off to start the arc

* Stick (scratch start) is when the electrode stays live at all times so start the arc as soon as you make contact

==== Output ====
This setting determines what activates the arc.

* Remote standard allows you to use a foot pedal or hand remote

* 2T hold acts like a toggle function

==== Pulser ====
Use this setting to periodically decrease the heat for smaller parts.

* PPS stands for pulses per second

* Peak time is how long each pulse is at max amperage as a percentage of the PPS

* Background amperage is the minimum amperage in between pulses

==== Sequence ====
Use this setting in conjunction with the 2T hold setting for when a remote (foot pedal) isn’t available or practical.

* Initial amperage is the amount of amps used to initiate the arc, usually based on electrode size

* Initial slope is how long it will take to go from initial A to your working amperage

* Final slope is how long it will take to decrease from working A to final A

* Final A is the amperage right before the arc cuts out

==== Adjust ====
* Preflow is how long the gas will flow before the weld starts, to clear out any impurities for the start

* Postflow is gas flow after the weld, to protect the weld and the electrode as they cool

* DIG is used for stick welding, prevents the electrode from sticking to the workpiece by temporarily increasing the voltage when the arc is about to go out

==== AC Waveshape ====
* Balance changes how much cleaning actions happens to remove the Al oxide. Lower balance has more cleaning action

* Frequency changes the width of the AC arc. Higher frequency will have a tighter arc with more penetration

==== Starting Recipes ====
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Material
!0.125" AISI 1018 plate
!0.065" AISI 4130 tube
!0.125" 6061-T6 plate
|-
|Amperage
|130A
|67A
|150A
|-
|Polarity
|DC
|DC
|AC
|-
|Process
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|HF Impulse
|-
|Output
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|RMT STD
|-
|Pulser
|off
|0.8 PPS, 40% peak t, 25A bkgnd A
|off
|-
|Sequence
|off
|off
|off
|-
|Adjust
|0.2s pre-flow, 4s post-flow
|0.5s pre-flow, 5s post-flow
|0.8s pre-flow, 6s post-flow
|-
|AC Waveshape
|off
|off
|70% balance, 80Hz
|}
Start with these settings and play around with them as you practice. Only change one setting at a time until you understand what each one does, that way you can notice the effect of each one.

==== Troubleshooting ====

* Amperage: The weld bead should be about twice as wide as the thickness of the material. If the bead is wider than that, turn the amperage down. Turn the amperage up if the bead is smaller.

* Process: If the arc won't start when you press the foot pedal, check your process setting. If you're in lift arc or stick, the machine expects you to touch the electrode to the workpiece in order to start the flow of current. Use HF Impulse instead for most TIG operations.

* Pulser: If you feel like you don't have enough time to reposition between pulses, decrease the PPS value. If you don't have time to add filler and connect the bead during the pulse, increase the peak t value. If the arc is flickering or dying in between pulses, turn up the background amperage.
* Adjust: if the weld has any porosity or oxidation, check that the gas flow rate is set correctly on the regulator. If the regulator is set correctly and the issue still arises, increase the post-flow value
* AC Waveshape: If the bead is too narrow, decrease the frequency. If it's too narrow AND has poor penetration, increase the amperage instead. If there's too much etching, turn up the balance. If the oxide layer won't break, turn the balance down.

== Technique ==

=== Before starting ===
* Make sure your tungsten is sharp. See the above section, [[Sharpening your tungsten]]

* Stick your electrode out the same amount as the width of the cup

* Most joints will use about twice the length of filler as the length of the joint. Make sure you have enough to finish the joint in one pass

* Find a comfortable position. Being comfy is the fastest way to improve your welds

* Trace your path to make sure you can reach and see everything you need to. If the piece is elevated off the work surface, find a way to support your hands

=== Starting the weld ===
* Position your torch so the tip of the electrode is ~1/8” from the surface of the workpiece. Never exceed ¼" (long arcing, poor gas coverage)

* Hold the torch at the correct angle

* 5-15deg lead angle in the plane parallel to the weld, meaning handle tilted back, electrode point in the direction of travel

* 90deg to the face of the weld, meaning vertical for flat welds or butt joints, 45deg from vertical for lap or T joints

* Apply the pedal slowly, develop the puddle

* Look for how the heat input affects the width of the puddle

* For joints, make a tack weld first. Start the arc in the middle of the gap to create a puddle on either side, increase the heat until they connect

* Use filler sparingly at first, make sure the base material fuses fully.

=== Make a bead ===
* Look for how filler input affects the height of the puddle

* Make sure to tie in to your tack or last bead, ie start with some overlap

* For joints, use a back-and-forth motion to connect the two pieces

* Use enough filler to avoid undercut (where the surface dips down)
* Make sure to add the filler directly into the puddle, don't lay it down next to the bead

=== Finishing the weld ===
* Finish the last ~¼" without filler to avoid a big glob at the end

* Make sure to go all the way over your tack or next bead

* Avoid pinholes, lack of fusion

* Slowly lift off pedal, hold torch over the weld

* Maintains gas coverage while the weld and electrode cool